A street in the Krasnoselsky district of the Central Administrative District of Moscow. Passes from Furkasovsky lane to Sretensky lane. The numbering of houses is carried out from Furkasovsky lane.

The name Lubyanka was first mentioned in the annals in 1480, it was given in honor of the Novgorod region - Lubyanits, after Ivan 3 ordered the Novgorodians, evicted to Moscow after the fall of the republic, to settle in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe current Lubyanka Square. Malaya Lubyanka Street goes from the southwest to the northeast is parallel to Bolshaya Lubyanka, but unlike it, it does not continue on both sides.

Previously, the street started from Lubyanka Square. The now defunct section between the square and modern Furkasovsky Lane was called Predtechensky Lane after the Church of St. John the Baptist located nearby. The section from Furkasovsky to Sretensky Lane (modern Malaya Lubyanka) was called differently - Novaya Street, Kirochny Lane, Maly Lubyansky Lane. Finally, when in the middle of the 19th century the initial section of Sretenka received the name Bolshaya Lubyanka, the street parallel to it began to be called, by analogy, Malaya Lubyanka.

A large French community historically lived in the quarter to the east of present-day Bolshaya Lubyanka (the name of one of them, the tailor Pierre Fourcasier, gave the name to Furkasovsky Lane). In 1789, the community filed a petition for permission to build a Catholic church. After receiving permission from the Moscow authorities and its approval by Empress Catherine 2, a small wooden church was built on the site between Malaya Lubyanka and Milyutinsky Lane. In its place, in 1835, a stone church of St. Louis of France, designed by A.O. Gilardi.

After the reconstruction of the building of the NKVD in the 30s of the 20th century, the first part of the street (the former Predtechensky Lane) was built up with an expanded building. Malaya Lubyanka Street acquired its modern dimensions. At the same time, the old buildings on the odd side of the street were demolished, instead of which large administrative buildings were built, most of which were included in the complex of state security buildings.

In the 80s of the XX century, the space at the junction of Malaya, Bolshaya Lubyanka and Sretensky lane was reconstructed. A large administrative building was built there.

On the odd side:

• No. 7 - Profitable possession of E.F. Mattern - "Moscow insurance company against fire" (1911, architect N.G. Faleev). Rebuilt in the 30s, simultaneously with the neighboring house number 12 on Bolshaya Lubyanka. Belonged and still belongs to the KGB-FSB. On the first floor of the house there was a departmental dining room of the KGB, about which there were many rumors in the city, mostly groundless. In 2006, the Lubyansky restaurant was opened in the premises of the former dining room.
• No. 9 - Polyclinic of the FSB of the Russian Federation (1990, architect Yu. S. Afrikanov).

On the even side:

• No. 10 - City estate of A. Z. Neledinskaya - The complex of buildings of the French Catholic Church of St. Louis. The main house is an almshouse named after St. Darius / Dorothea / - administrative building (late 18th century, 1820s, 1980s)
• No. 12 - The main architectural landmark of the street is the Catholic Church of St. Louis. Built in the style of classicism in 1830 according to the project of D.I. Gilardi. The church building is located a little in the depths of the quarter, behind a small front garden and overlooks the altar on Milyutinsky Lane. The building is classified as a cultural heritage site of federal significance.
• No. 12, building 4 - Residential building (1885-1886, architect A.S. Kaminsky)
• No. 14 - House (end of the 18th century; based on the structure of the middle of the 18th century)
• No. 16 - In the 19th century, the house of the merchants Kirillovs stood here. In 1874, in its place, an apartment building was erected by E. P. Rogal-Ivanovskaya - the Russian Society for Insurance of Capital and Income, designed by architect A. L. Ober. In 1904, the house was rebuilt according to the project of the architect VV Schaub. The house overlooks three streets at once: Malaya Lubyanka, Sretensky and Milyutinsky lanes. Currently - a residential building, on the ground floor - restaurants and offices. From 1922 to 1928, an occult lodge was located in the basement of the house, organized by the tenant of the house, Chekhovsky V.K. and Teger E.K.
• No. 22 - House in the possession of the Moscow Insurance Company (1907, architect N.G. Faleev)

Not far from the beginning of the street is one of the exits of the Lubyanka metro station. Public transport does not run along the street.

Unlike the neighboring Bolshaya Lubyanka, whose importance in the history and geography of the capital can hardly be overestimated, Malaya Lubyanka is almost invisible at first glance. But in some places it is very beautiful and, together with the neighboring Milyutinsky Lane, makes up a delightful architectural ensemble, which was appreciated by the columnist for the Week, Irina Mak.

1. That which is no more

Compared to the Bolshaya Lubyanka, the Malaya Lubyanka, parallel to it, goes neither to the boulevard nor to the square, as if it has neither beginning nor end. In past centuries, it changed several names - it was Novaya Street, Kirochny Lane, and Maly Lubyansky. And it once began on the square: its non-existent section to the modern Furkasovsky Lane was called Predtechensky - after the Church of the Beheading of John the Baptist, founded in 1337, according to legend, by Grand Duke Ivan Kalita - his chambers seemed to be nearby.

The address of the last building of the church, built in 1643: Malaya Lubyanka, house N 6. The temple was closed in 1929, and later demolished, making room for more relevant buildings.

2. New meaning for old walls

The three-story outbuildings of the Obidina house (M. Lubyanka, house No. 8), overlooking Myasnitskaya Street, were rented out before the revolution under the offices of trading companies N. Vetter and E. Ginkel. The Chemical and Bacteriological Institute of Dr. F.M. Blumenthal, which produced preparations for vaccinations against cholera, and the Surgical Hospital of the doctor M.I. Druzhinin.

In the 1880s, the library of S.K. Kevnarsky, at the end of the 19th century, architect P.P. Zykov, and in the 20th century, right next to the soldering workshop, there were tea and food shops. Today they have changed offices.

3. Restaurant in the dining room of the KGB

Constructivist house No. 7, opening the left side of Malaya Lubyanka, appeared in the early 1930s - at the same time as house No. 12 along Bolshaya Lubyanka, standing on the other corner of Furkasovsky Lane.

Initially, house No. 7 was under the jurisdiction of the KGB of the USSR, and now it has gone to his successors. But if in Soviet times the departmental dining room of the KGB on the ground floor, about which there were many incredible rumors at one time, was allowed in only with official passes, then since 2006 the Lubyansky restaurant has been operating in the former dining room, and everyone is allowed in there. But expensive.

4. French heritage

To the east of Bolshaya Lubyanka, a French community has historically lived. The name of the "tailor master of the French nation, Peter Ivanovich (Pierre) Fourcasier", whose house stood next to the church in the 17th century, gave the name to Furkasovsky Lane, going from Bolshaya Lubyanka to Milyutinsky Lane. Fourcasier's house has not been preserved - unlike other French heritage.

The main local attraction is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Louis (M. Lubyanka, house N 12 or Milyutinsky lane, house N 7), the first building of which was built and consecrated on March 30, 1791 in honor of St. Louis of Neri, the patron saint of the King of France.

In 1789, the French colony asked the commander-in-chief of Moscow, General Yeropkin, for permission to build a Catholic church. Catherine II ordered to find a place for her in the German settlement, but, having mercy, she allowed the French to build in the Kuznetsky Most area, where many of them lived.

The first temple was wooden. In 1807, Adrian Syuryug became his rector, under whose influence prominent Moscow aristocrats converted to Catholicism - the princes Shcherbatov, the wife of Count Rostopchin, and a member of the Senate Protasov.

In 1812, the French community took the side of the Russian army, the abbe Syurug refused to meet with Napoleon, which he asked for. And in December 1812 he died, bequeathing to the parishioners to found a shelter for the weak Catholics, which was done through the efforts of Count Octavius ​​(Osip Osipovich) de Kenson, a general who fought in the Russian army against Napoleon. The shelter was named in honor of his late wife Darya Petrovna, née Odoevskaya, "Saint Darya's Shelter".

And the church, dilapidated by 1820, was broken. In its place, Domenico Gilardi and his nephew Alessandro erected a new one, decorated with sculptures by Campioni and Vitali and showing a rare example of a basilica for Russia, elegant and laconic, with a Tuscan portico and a pair of low bell towers.

Against the background of the Catholic Cathedral of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, built by Alessandro Gilardi in 1839-1849 a little further (Milutinsky Lane, house N 18), the Basilica of St. Louis looked very modest. Her parishioners were French, Italians and English, including the famous pianist John Field. For decades, the family of organist Karl Gedicke lived at the church, whose grandson Alexander Fedorovich became famous as a composer, organist and professor at the Moscow Conservatory.

After the revolution, the church of St. Louis, whose number of parishioners at that time numbered 2,700 people, fell on hard times. Until 1926, Father Zelinsky, rector of the Church of Peter and Paul, took care of the French parish. But the church was taken away from the Catholics in the 1930s, and to this day it has not been returned. And taking care of the French parish, Bishop Michel d "Herbigny, secretly from the Soviet authorities, ordained bishops in the church of St. Louis Monsignor Pius Eugene Neveu. When the secret of the Catholics was revealed, d" Herbigny was expelled from the USSR. They also tried to expel the new Bishop of Neveu, but they could not because of the protests of the French embassy, ​​with which at that time Stalin was not in a position to quarrel.

5. For boys and girls

Another monument of the French presence in the Russian capital - the red-brick monumental building of the French Lyceum formally belongs to the neighboring Milyutinsky Lane (house N 7a). However, the history of its origin is directly connected with the Catholic Cathedral of St. Louis.

In 1861, Madame Detouche, nee Despres, originally from a famous family of wine merchants, leaving for a monastery, donated 30 thousand rubles for the construction of a real school for boys, named after Philip Neriysky. Later, several more people from this family contributed money for the school, the eldest sons of which were always called Philippi. And in 1869, the merchant Jean Villois donated 50 thousand rubles to a school for girls - mainly French and Belgian women, named in memory of St. Catherine. Girls were taught needlework, caring for children and the sick, they often became governesses in Russian families. But not only: the graduate of the school was, among others, the wonderful actress Vera Maretskaya.

In 1897-1899, the architect Oscar Didio built a new Neo-Gothic building for both schools, with large arched windows: the male part was on the right, the female part on the left. Now there is a French lyceum and French language courses, and no one pays attention to the difference between the sexes.

6. From Milyutin to Mayakovsky

Another monument on Malaya Lubyanka is apartment house N 16, on the corner of Sretensky Lane, stands on the spot where from the 1760s until the beginning of the 19th century there was the estate of the owner of the lace and ribbon weaving factory Milyutin. In the 1836-1850s, the merchants Kirillovs owned the site, in the 1880s - the widow of Major General E.P. Rogal-Ivanovskaya, from which the Russian Society for Credit and Income Insurance bought the land. At the beginning of the 20th century, the building housed furnished rooms "Strasbourg", in 1919 - the ROST workshop, where Vladimir Mayakovsky and Mikhail Cheremnykh worked.

Today, the building houses apartments and offices, and its facade is not visible because of the fence that separates this house and a narrow passage along it from a powerful construction site that invaded the street from Bolshaya Lubyanka. That is, house No. 16 is still standing, but the street is gone.

What to watch:

Portico of the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Louis - M. Lubyanka, 12

What to eat: Burgundy snails and Moscow-style sturgeon in the Gorozhanin cafe - Milyutinsky per., 13 (or Sretensky per., 1, or M. Lubyanka, 22)

Over the past two hundred years, it has repeatedly changed in length and in the name. Until the middle of the XX century. the street was much longer and started directly from Lubyanka Square. The name Malaya Lubyanka appeared at the beginning of the 19th century. together with the name of the parallel street Bolshaya Lubyanka. Prior to that, the street had two names: from the square to Furkasovsky Lane - Predtechensky Lane, and then Novaya Street (at different times it was called Maly Lubyansky Lane and Kirochnaya Street).

Nothing remains of the buildings in the former Predtechensky Lane. In the 1940s in connection with the reconstruction of the NKVD house, that part of the street that overlooked Lubyanka Square was completely destroyed. It is curious that the previous numbering has been preserved, so Malaya Lubyanka now begins with houses No. 5 and No. 8.

Non-existent part of Malaya Lubyanka street:

Starting from Lubyanka Square, the first house on the left side was the house of Mosolov, on the right from the beginning of the 19th century. until the 1840s there were Moscow possessions of the Mingrelian princes Dadiani with stone chambers and a garden. And the possessions of the Mosolovs and the princes of Dadiani in the 20th century. became the property of the Rossiya insurance company, which built tenement houses on them, which in Soviet times were included in the OGPU-NKVD-KGB house complex.

Further on the right side from the middle of the XVIII century. lived a representative of an ancient family, guard lieutenant Fyodor Prokofievich Sokovnin, whose relative was Feodosya Morozova, the famous schismatic depicted in Surikov’s painting “Boyar Morozova”. At the end of the XIX century. here was the agency of the highest approved Steamship Society "Airplane".

On the corner with Furkasovsky Lane stood the Church of the Beheading of John the Baptist, first built of wood in 1337 at the request of Grand Duke Ivan Danilovich. In 1741 it was rebuilt in stone. The church was small, single-domed, with a bell tower. At the church there was a family cemetery of the Lvov princes.

On the other side, on the corner and further to the square from the middle of the 18th century. was the property of the Lyapunovs, then the merchants Kononovs. Chambers went out into the alley. In the 1880s here was the apartment of the famous opera singer, teacher Dmitry Andreevich Usatov. In the 1890s Bertha Brown's toy store was in the house.

Until our time, only part of the street has survived, which was once called New. Most of the houses on its odd side face Bolshaya Lubyanka with a different facade. In place of the corner house No. 5 there were residential buildings of the third Moscow male gymnasium, the main building of which was located on Bolshaya Lubyanka.

In house number 7 in the 1870s. there was a private hospital "with permanent beds" of Dr. Pavel Antonovich Radtsikh. And in the mid-1930s. - Moscow regional registry office.

The even side is more interesting.

The first house (No. 8, aka No. 3 on Furkasovsky Lane) at the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries. belonged to the merchant Obidina. She rented out all the premises. For a long time, the apartment and the Chemical and Bacteriological Institute of Dr. Philip Markovich Blumenthal were located at this address. The institute, renamed Bacteriological, remained here in Soviet times.

In the neighboring house No. 10 on the second floor, for about ten years before emigration in 1975, the legendary artist, collector of Russian antiquities Vasily Yakovlevich Sitnikov lived, who founded a school of painting in his communal apartment, a kind of academy of free art.

Of particular interest and charm to Malaya Lubyanka is the existence of the Catholic Church of St. Louis, the oldest surviving Catholic church in Moscow.

Near the temple in the 1890s. the well-known private women's educational institution Natalya Evgenievna Spiess was located, at the beginning of the 20th century. there lived a French subject, who did a lot for Russian industry, Julius Petrovich Gouzhon.