"They broke the old Taganka, I'll clean it all up, to hell with it ..." - Vladimir Vysotsky sang. In this early stylization, under the thieves' chanson, the bard meant the Taganskaya prison. This penitentiary was demolished in 1958, and it was located quite far from Taganskaya Square - a few blocks along Malye Kamenshchiki Street. But as an epigraph, this line fits perfectly - in the 1960s, Taganka changed beyond recognition for the first time, when the Garden Ring tunnel was being laid under the square. In the 1990s, the old corner of Moscow was practically finished off: now it is a large traffic intersection, adapted exclusively for motorists and unfriendly to pedestrians.

The name comes from the Tagansky Gates of the Earthen City (the end of the 16th century), where the Tagannaya Sloboda was located (tagans are copper boilers on a tripod suspension used by troops on campaigns). Tagannaya, Goncharnaya and Kotelnicheskaya settlements arose behind the Yauza in the 15th-16th centuries, when these flammable industries were withdrawn from the city center - into the then still open field. After the construction of the fortifications of the Earthen City, a market arose outside the Tagansky Gates, which flourished thanks to the then tax regime: the passage of merchant carts inside the Earthen City was subject to a duty, so trade was concentrated directly outside the gates. In 1742, the authorities banned trade from wagons on the city streets, further strengthening the position of the Tagansky market.

After the fire of 1773, the square was replanned and divided into two trading rows - the Upper (on the arrow of the current Tagansky and Marksistskaya streets) and the Lower (along the line of Goncharnaya Street and Bolshoi Kamenshchikov). This layout was maintained until the demolition of 1963. After the fire of 1812, on the site of the shops destroyed by fire, stone trading rows were built according to the project of O. I. Bove, which existed for a century and a half. In the 1820s Zemlyanoy Val itself was torn down, and the Garden Ring was broken in its place, however, it was in the Taganka area that there were no gardens and boulevards on it. The massive construction of tenement houses in the late 19th and early 20th centuries bypassed Taganka. Only two large houses were built on Narodnaya Street, but in general the square remained two-story.

The general plan for the reconstruction of Moscow (1935) provided for the complete demolition of the existing buildings and the laying of a tunnel approximately in the same place where the Tagansky Tunnel is now located. But this plan was not fully implemented. Only a beautiful Stalinka was built - house number 38 on Goncharnaya Street.

The next stage of reconstruction was carried out in the 1960s, when the Tagansky tunnel and the Ulyanovsk overpass to the north of it were nevertheless built on the Garden Ring. Trade rows designed by Osip Bove and quarters on the outer side of Zemlyanoy Val fell victim to road construction.

Trading lines. 1959-1960:

Tunnel construction. 1961-1962:

The construction of the square in the post-war period was chaotic and unorganized: inside the ring there was a red cube of the Taganka Theater, outside it - a panel building on the arrow of Taganskaya and Marksistskaya streets. Not a single project of complex development of Taganka was implemented. In the 2000s, the “reconstruction” of buildings along the perimeter of the square was carried out, which did not change the nature of its development as a whole.

Upper and Lower Radishevsky, Zemlyanoy Val, Solzhenitsyn, Taganskaya, Marxistskaya, Vorontsovskaya, Bolshiye Kamenshchiki, Narodnaya, Goncharnaya streets converge on the square. To resolve such a powerful traffic flow, dozens of traffic lights and pedestrian crossings are required. As a result, the central part of the square turned into a wasteland square. But before, the core of Taganskaya Square was used more rationally: the already mentioned shopping arcades were located here.

An article about the history of Taganskaya Square can be found on the website: http://tagankainfo.ru/taganskaya_ploschad

The Moscow Drama and Comedy Theater (Zemlyanoy Val, 76) was founded in 1946, but in the early 60s it turned out to be one of the least visited theaters in the capital and Yuri Lyubimov was appointed the new chief director. He came to the theater with his students from the Shchukin school and significantly updated the troupe, producing an additional set of young artists, among them Valery Zolotukhin, Inna Ulyanova, Veniamin Smekhov, Nikolai Gubenko, Vladimir Vysotsky. Under the leadership of Lyubimov, Taganka immediately gained a reputation as the most avant-garde theater in the country. Like the early Sovremennik, the theater dispensed with a curtain and almost did not use scenery, replacing them with various stage structures.

The theater was housed in a building built in 1912 according to the project of the architect G. Gelrikh for the Moscow merchant D.I. The entrance was located from the Garden Ring through a tiny vestibule, and the slanting foyer was squeezed into the rebuilt walls of the former shops of the merchant Kochergin. The undeveloped yard between them just served as a place for a cinema hall.

About metropolitan electro-theatres: http://popala-sobaka.livejournal.com/60624.html

At the mention of the Taganka Theater, an association inevitably comes: Vladimir Vysotsky. Talented, controversial, unpredictable, living over the abyss, adored by viewers and listeners, not always understood by colleagues and relatives. Big things are seen from a distance. No one could have imagined that on the day of the civil memorial service, Taganskaya Square would be filled with thousands of people who had come to say goodbye.

Bolshaya Alekseevskaya, Bolshaya Kommunisticheskaya, now - Alexander Solzhenitsyn Street. You can walk along this street on Yamoskva:

The Zvyozdochka shopping center was opened in April 2001 after the reconstruction of the building, which increased its area from 2200 to 5200 sq.m. During the previous reconstruction, which was completed in 1937, the facades and the external contour of the building in general terms acquired the current appearance, but it no longer met modern requirements. Until the early 1990s of the 20th century, it housed a branch of Detsky Mir - the Zvyozdochka store, which had only two separate trading floors - 300 and 100 sq.m. The two-story building had an internal technical courtyard with a gate and small basements used for warehouses. Part of the second floor was occupied by communal apartments.

In order to increase the area of ​​trading floors and create the central "core" of the building - an atrium that unites the trading areas of the building, a full-fledged basement floor was dug under the entire area of ​​the outer perimeter of the building, the patio was blocked and a full-fledged third floor was added. It was decided to keep the old name of the store, beloved by Muscovites, Zvezdochka, adding new modern content to it.

A rusting structure, designed either for flagpoles from the time of the Moscow Olympics, or for the installation of a New Year tree.

In the gray stream of cars, the bard's "Blue Trolleybus" appears with peppy songs from loudspeakers.

Taganskaya Street originated as a road from Moscow through the Tagansky Gates.

The spontaneous market of the 18th century returned here in the dashing 1990s:

Until 1919, Marxistskaya Street was called Empty because of the wastelands located on it.

Vorontsovskaya Street is part of the road from the Kremlin to the Krutitsky Compound, the Simonov Monastery and the Novospassky Monastery that arose back in the 13th century. The name arose in the 18th century after the New Vorontsovskaya Sloboda, formed at the end of the 17th century. Craftsmen were resettled here - residents of Vorontsov Field.

Club "Alma Mater"

Cinema "Tagansky". 1928:

The name of the streets Bolshie and Malye Kamenshchiki arose in the 18th century at the place where the palace Stone Sloboda had been since the middle of the 17th century. Stonemasons lived in this settlement, summoned in 1642 by Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich from the Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery to rebuild the wooden Novospassky Monastery. Now on this street, masons from the former fraternal co-republics are raising floors of new buildings. Our capital is getting better!

At the corner of Bolshiye Kamenshchikov and Narodnaya Street, there is now an office of the Russian Football Union. At a certain angle, the inscription can be read as "Russian football". I immediately remember Vladimir Shakhrin and his song: "What pain, what pain!" We believe that at the Moscow World Championship 2018, our leather ball magicians will not hit the ball in the dirt, but will hit the goal.

In 1922, Krasnokholmskaya Street was given the ideological name - Narodnaya Street - "in honor of the Soviet people."

Narodnaya street, house number 4, building 1 - tenement house (1915, architect V. A. Osipov, together with V. M. Piotrovich)

Goncharnaya Sloboda is one of the oldest settlements in Zemlyanoy Gorod. From chronicle sources it follows that the city was originally located in the area of ​​modern Goncharnaya Street, and towards the end of the 12th century it moved to the territory of the Kremlin.

Taganskaya Square, house 88 - city estate of V. F. Kolesnikov - Sargins - M. E. Shapatina, late XVIII - early XX century

Lower Radishchevskaya street

Upper Radishchevskaya Street was once called Upper Bolvanovskaya. It is believed that Bolvanovskaya Sloboda existed here in the 17th century, where blanks for sewing hats were made. Renamed in 1919 in memory of Aleksey Nikolaevich Radishchev (1749-1802), who lived here since 1797. He is best known as the author of the book Journey from St. Petersburg to Moscow. For sharp criticism of serfdom in Russia, he was sentenced to death, replaced by exile in Siberia for 10 years.

Three metro lines intersect under Taganskaya Square. The most beautiful lobby at the Taganskaya ring station was opened in 1950.

At the station "Taganskaya" radial (built in 1966) and "Marxistskaya" (1979), passengers get from ordinary underground passages. Under Brezhnev, architectural excesses were not welcomed, "the economy must be economical."

Photos: Evgeny Chesnokov
Looking for a session or full-time job: reportage photography, interview, editor, website moderator

Wednesday, September 14, 2016

Taganskaya Square is undoubtedly one of the most colorful squares in the city. What was not there and what was not built! Tunnels and markets, shopping arcades and residential buildings, the Garden Ring passes here and many paths converge.

Taganskaya Square was reopened this week after reconstruction.

We invite you to take a walk along the new square and look at its development through the centuries —>

Taganskaya Square arose in the 18th century near the Taganskaya Sloboda. The square got its name from the buildings that stood here from the end of the 16th century. Tagansky Gate of Zemlyanoy Val. On the resulting square near the gate, they traded goods brought from the villages for sale in Moscow. Wooden stalls and even stone trading shops appeared here.

Taganskaya Square (in the center) on the first geodetic plan of Moscow (Michurinsky plan), 1739

After a serious fire in 1773, the square was replanned and divided into two trading rows - Upper and Lower. This layout was maintained until the global reconstruction of the area in 1963. After 1812, on the site of the shops destroyed by fire, according to the project of O.I. Beauvais were built stone trading rows that existed for a century and a half. In the 1820s, Zemlyanoy Val itself was torn down, and the Garden Ring was laid out in its place, but it was in the Taganka area that there were no gardens and boulevards on it. The massive construction of tenement houses in the late 19th and early 20th centuries bypassed Taganka. Only two large houses were built on Narodnaya Street, but in general the square remained two-story.

Let's look at photographs from the 19th and early 20th centuries

View of Nizhnyaya Taganskaya Square. 1880-1885
The southern facade of the pentagonal shopping arcade complex is clearly visible on the frame. In front of it are temporary (possibly commercial) buildings with gable roofs. Against the background of light roofs, the Tagansky water-folding fountain of the Moscow water pipeline is clearly visible. On the right are two-story houses that have survived to this day between Vorontsovskaya Street and Bolshie Kamenshchiki. In the gap in the background, the Church of the Resurrection of Christ dominates in Taganka (dismantled in 1933)

View of Bolshaya Alekseevskaya Street from Upper Taganskaya Square. 1888
Bolshaya Alekseevskaya Street (from 1924 to 2008 - Bolshaya Kommunisticheskaya Street; since 2009 - Alexander Solzhenitsyn Street).
On the left you can see the Church of St. Martin the Confessor, on the right - the building of the Rybakov trading house (now the Zvezdochka shopping center stands here).

Upper Taganskaya Square 1895-1900
In the background is the Church of St. Nicholas on Bolvanovka.

Upper Taganskaya Square. 1902-1907

Upper Taganskaya Square. 1912-1915

Upper Taganskaya Square. 1922

Lower Taganskaya Square. 1928

View of Upper Taganskaya Square from Vorontsovskaya Street. 1935

Panorama of Nizhnyaya Taganskaya Square. 1936

The general plan for the reconstruction of Moscow in 1935 provided for the complete demolition of the existing buildings and the laying of a tunnel approximately in the same place where the Tagansky Tunnel is now located. Inside the ring, to the north of Goncharnaya Street, it was supposed to clear a vast triangular area, the northern border of which would pass along the route of Taganskaya Street. The current Radishchevskaya and Vorontsovskaya streets would become intra-block passages. From this development plan, only house No. 36-38 on Goncharnaya Street and the construction of a new Bolshoy Krasnokholmsky Bridge were implemented, while the Garden Ring route shifted to the north, Narodnaya Street became a secondary passage.

Plan for the reconstruction of Moscow in 1935. Fragment.

Goncharnaya street, house 36-38. 1946-1950

This new house had excellent views of Taganskaya Square.

View of the Upper and Lower Taganskaya Squares from the house No. 36-38 on Goncharnaya Street. 1941-1946

The next stage of reconstruction was carried out in the 1960s, when the Tagansky tunnel and the Ulyanovsk overpass to the north of it were built on the Garden Ring. The trade rows of Beauvais and the quarters on the outer side of Zemlyanoy Val fell victim to road construction.

A few shots of the shopping arcade in the last days before the demolition

1961

1961

1961

Construction of a tunnel on Taganskaya Square.

Taganskaya Square immediately after reconstruction. 1963

The development of the square was later chaotic and unorganized: inside the ring there was a red cube of the Taganka Theater, outside it - a panel building on the arrow of Taganskaya and Marksistskaya streets. Not a single project of complex development of Taganka was implemented.

Taganskaya Square. 1974

Taganskaya Square. 1978

Theater on Taganka. 1989

In the 1990s, the Tagansky grocery store and the market spread out in front of it became the "center of life" of Taganskaya Square.

1993-94

The area finally turned into one big mess that has existed until our time. Less than a year ago, the area was cleared of the layers of the 1990s, but everything looked, again, extremely variegated.

Taganskaya Square was reopened this week after reconstruction. Well, let's take a walk and see if it's getting better, how things are with landscaping and tiles. For convenience, the photos will be given in the format of a year ago and this morning.

Asphalt spots on the site of demolished shopping pavilions, recognized as unauthorized construction

Interestingly made stairs:

On the one hand it is a staircase, and on the other a smooth exit. Finally, we began to do this instead of incomprehensible iron skids (whoever tried to lower a stroller over them at least once understands)

Trees are planned to be planted in free ground in October.

A year ago, the site near the Taganskaya metro station was also not in the best shape: wires, an incomprehensible and useless toilet:

They left a parking pocket for a taxi, but the tiles were changed everywhere. Such a tile showed itself well over the past season at Pyatnitskaya and Dmitrovka, so it’s good that they put it here too.

Not the best place for walking a year ago, rather parking:

The terrain was leveled, unauthorized parking was removed, instead of broken asphalt, tiles again.

This was Narodnaya Street a year ago:

The most interesting thing is that the majority of people who come to Taganskaya Square in the next six months may not notice the changes, alas. You quickly get used to the good, after the reconstructed central streets, such seemingly “small” changes begin to be taken for granted, but look at the old photos again. It's only been a year! And in ten years, we will look at it like now at Moscow in the 1990s, throw up our hands and exclaim: “Oh, how did we live like this and did not notice all this mess”, so appreciate the details and pay attention to them.

• Other names: until 1963 The area was divided into Upper and Lower Taganskaya
• Date of construction: XVII century
• Address: Zemlyanoy Val st. - Big Krasnokholmsky bridge
• Coordinates: 37°39′14.90″E; 55°44′27.19″N

Taganskaya Square, located on the Garden Ring of Moscow, connects Zemlyanoy Val Street with the Bolshoi Krasnokholmsky Bridge. The square is one of the largest transport hubs in the center of Moscow. Taganskaya Square (metro stations Taganskaya and Marksistskaya) is the center of the intersection of the Garden Ring line with several streets coming from the center (Goncharnaya St., Verkhnyaya Radishchevskaya St., Nizhnyaya Radishchevskaya St.) and several streets going from the center (Bolshiye Kamenshchiki St., Marksistskaya St., Taganskaya St., Vorontsovskaya St., Alexander Solzhenitsyn St.).

The square was formed in 1963 as a result of the merger of the Upper and Lower Tagansky squares connected by the Tagansky passage. The squares got their name in the 18th century from the Tagansky gates of the Zemlyanoy Gorod located here (XVI century), and those, in turn, from the Tagannaya Sloboda located here in the 15th-16th centuries.

The artisans of the settlement were engaged in the production of tagans - special devices for cooking on fire in the field, which were especially widely used during military campaigns.

In the 16th century, a market was formed near the outer side of the Tagansky Gates, and in 1773 a shopping arcade was built on it, which, after a fire in 1813, were rebuilt in stone according to the project of the architect O.I. Beauvais, thereby dividing the trading area into 2 parts - Upper and Lower Taganskaya Square.

After the demolition of Zemlyanoy Val in the 19th century, the appearance of the square did not change dramatically. The area underwent more significant changes in the 20th century.

In 1918, Upper Taganskaya Square briefly became Oktyabrskaya. The massive replacement of old names with new "revolutionary" ones led to the fact that in Moscow there were as many as 2 Oktyabrsky squares at once (Kaluga was also renamed Oktyabrskaya). In order to avoid confusion, Upper Taganskaya was returned to its former name in 1922.

The first stage of the reconstruction of the square took place in the second half of the 1930s, the second - in the 1960s, when a transport tunnel was laid underground and the trading rows by Bove were destroyed. Then the square became one.

The next reconstruction of the square, which on the whole did not change the nature of the development, took place in the 2000s.

Taganskaya Square is primarily famous for the theater located on it and the prison, which was demolished in 1958.

The Taganka Drama and Comedy Theater is known for its creative team, but for most viewers, Taganka is certainly associated with Vladimir Semenovich Vysotsky, who was part of the theater troupe.

The popular prison song "Taganka" was allegedly written by one of the prisoners who was in the Taganka prison. The Taganskaya prison, built to the south-east of the square, on Malye Kamenshchiki Street in 1804 by decree of Tsar Alexander I, was originally intended for criminals, but at the end of the century it also contained political prisoners. Among the well-known prisoners of "Taganka" - Russian businessman, philanthropist and revolutionary Savva Morozov; Russian theologian, scientist, Orthodox priest Pavel Florensky; writer Leonid Andreev; scientist and poet Leonid Radin; revolutionary Nikolai Bauman; revolutionary and politician of the USSR Leonid Krasin; People's Commissar of Education Anatoly Lunacharsky; philanthropist Savva Mamontov; "adventurer of the 20th century" and compiler of the thieves' dictionary VF Trakhtenberg; humanist writer Osorgin; Saint Seraphim; the prototype of the famous Ostap Bender - Ostap Shor; general Vlasov; famous healer Porfiry Ivanov.

In this prison, the prisoner Leonid Radin composed the famous song: "Be brave, comrades, keep up!" (late 19th century).

During the Khrushchev thaw, the prison was blown up, and residential buildings and a kindergarten were built in its place.

The sights of modern Taganskaya Square are the Taganka Theater, the Vysotsky Museum; the Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker on Bolvanovka (XVII century), the Church of the Assumption in Gonchars (XVII-XVIII), the city estate of V. F. Kolesnikov - Sargins - M. E. Shapatina (XVIII - early XX century).

Moscow is a huge city with many districts, streets, squares. The article will provide background and useful information about such a place as Taganskaya Square. After all, many highways and streets are combined here. Taganka is a prestigious area of ​​the city with its pluses and minuses.

What is it?

If you look at the map of Moscow, you can see that the Tagansky district is located in the Central District. The Kremlin is located two kilometers from Taganskaya Square. The area itself, despite the terrible ecology, a lot of cars, paid parking and the lack of cheap grocery stores, is prestigious. Many Muscovites dream of living here. But let's not talk about it. What is Taganskaya Square? The photo that you will see in the article illustrates not only the highway, but also the famous red building of the Taganka Theater. Shopping center "Zvezdochka" in the Soviet years attracted the attention of not only citizens, but also guests of the capital.

If you stand on the "island" of the square, you can see:

• the building of the metro station "Taganskaya" (Koltsevaya);
• the building of the Taganka Theater;
• Zemlyanoy Val (Garden Ring);
• shopping center "Zvezdochka";
• shopping center "Taganka";
• lilac houses (17-storey residential buildings following one after another between Taganskaya and Marksistskaya streets) and, if desired, much more.

Above was a brief overview of one of the squares of the capital.

By car or public transport?

Let's figure out where Taganskaya Square is located? Metro, as mentioned earlier, or "Marxist". When you enter the city, you will immediately get to where you need to go. It remains only to solve the question: "Where do you need to specifically?".

Trolleybuses No. 26 and No. 27 run along Volgogradsky Prospekt, stopping at Marksistskaya Street and Taganskaya Square (trolleybus No. 27). From the side of Taganskaya street, as well as Nizhegorodskaya and Ryazansky avenues, there are fixed-route taxis, trolleybuses and buses (numbers: 63, 16, 56 and others).

Trolleybus "B" runs along the garden ring, but there are no stops on Taganskaya Square itself, you can just admire the views from the window.

If you go by car, then you can get to Taganskaya Square from such objects as:

• People's Street;
• Big Stonemasons;
• Marxist street;
• Taganskaya street;
• Solzhenitsyn street;
• Vorontsovskaya street;
• Earthen rampart (Garden Ring).

Motorists must remember that Taganskaya is very difficult. It is recommended that beginners use the navigator and be careful, watch the signs and signs.

How to get to Matronushka?

Very, very often you will meet people with flowers. It's safe to say that they follow in Maybe that's why Taganka is so popular?

Unfortunately, Matronushka's admirers constantly go in the wrong direction. Whoever decides to go to the Intercession Monastery for the first time, carefully read the following few sentences.

Moscow watch factory

On Marksistskaya Street, not far from Taganskaya Square, there is the famous Poljot watch factory. Only watches from this company can be purchased in the salon on Vorontsovskaya street, 35B, cor. 3.

If you stand on Taganskaya Square, you can see that another one leaves Marxistskaya Street to the right - this is Vorontsovskaya Street. So, basically, everything is close. You don't have to travel far.

Area parks

If you go to Matronushka, you will see Pryamikov's children's park on the left, and Tagansky Park on the right. It is not visible from the road. Both parks are practically the only green corners of the area where you can relax, rollerblade, run around the stadium.

Pryamikov Park has a children's puppet theater and sports facilities. In summer, as a rule, children can jump on a trampoline.

big landmark

In conclusion, we add that Taganskaya Square is a periphery between highways and railway stations. It is from here that you can walk down to the Kursk railway station along Zemlyanoy Val. If you go in the opposite direction, then across the Moscow River you will lead to the Paveletsky railway station. Simply put, the landmark is as follows: if you look at the building of the vestibule of the Taganskaya station, then the directions are as follows:

• to the left - Paveletsky railway station;
• to the right - Kursk.

In general, Taganskaya Square helps to get to certain streets, to other areas, to go to the Moscow Ring Road. The only negative: it is very difficult to navigate, a large flow of cars, a lot of traffic lights and few clear signs. Therefore, we recall, follow with the navigator and listen to his recommendations strictly.