A personal plot will only look attractive if you take care of it according to all the rules, one of which is whitewashing tree trunks. About when and how exactly they do this, our article will tell.

Why whitewash trees?

Proper and timely whitewashing gives the following effect:

• repels insects that have awakened with the advent of spring, which can harm the bark;
• prevents damage to the bark by pests that overwintered in the wood;
• protects the bark from the harmful effects of the scorching sun;
• prevents icing and freezing of the surface of the wood;
• does not allow the spread of various infectious diseases that are dangerous to plants;
• protects the tree bark from sudden changes in temperature during the cold season;
• somewhat suspends the process of bud break, which will save them from unexpected spring frosts;
• prevents animals from gnawing the bark in winter.

Features of whitewashing fruit trees

There is nothing complicated in the whitewashing procedure, however, it is still worth familiarizing yourself with its main points in advance so that the efforts and time spent on the event are not wasted.

Time for whitewash

Trees are bleached 2 times a year. In autumn, experts recommend carrying out the procedure in November, and March is considered the most suitable month for whitewashing trees in spring. However, these tips are not an ultimatum, because sometimes even the most experienced weather forecasters cannot predict the weather nuances. Therefore, when deciding when exactly to carry out the whitewashing procedure, be guided by the following tips:

• in the spring, take care of the garden when a stable positive temperature is established, but not after the first foxes have already appeared on the trees;
• in autumn, trees can be whitewashed on the eve of frost.

With frequent thaws in winter, it is advisable to correct the whitewash. If the layer of the applied protective agent has not suffered too much, it can only be updated from the south side.

Preparatory stage

Step-by-step preparation of trees for whitewashing looks like this:

1. Cleanse the bark. In wet, damp weather, carefully and carefully remove damaged and “dead” bark, moss, fungi and lichens from the surface of the trunk and base of the skeletal branches with your hands. Keep in mind that metal and plastic spatulas or saws are not suitable as an auxiliary tool - you will injure the bark even more with them. Hard-to-reach places and cracks can be cleaned with a wooden chip or a sharpened wooden peg. All peeled bark is burned.
2. Treat the bark with a disinfectant. To do this, pour the solution into a spray bottle or leave it in a bucket and arm yourself with a homemade herbal whisk. Try to apply a protective agent in a thin layer - it should not flow down the tree trunk. If you decide to use a spray gun, set its spray gun in such a position that the spraying is finely dispersed - the smallest droplets of the protective solution will settle on the surface of the bark in a uniform and dense layer.

Which disinfectant solution to choose

You can buy a disinfectant at the store or make your own. If you like the first option, look for breeding mixes such as Hom, Abiga-peak, Oxy-hom on sale. Proceed to the preparation of the solution only after carefully reading the instructions, proportions and manufacturer's recommendations.

For those who rely solely on their own strength, we will offer several options for disinfectants that you can mix yourself.

1. Dissolve 300 g of copper sulfate in powder in 10 liters of water. Make sure the copper is completely dissolved before applying directly.
2. Hold 10 liters of water on fire until it becomes hot, but do not bring the water to a boil. Then completely dissolve the laundry soap there (a piece of 50 g), then sift the ash (2.5 - 3 kg) into the water. Mix the solution thoroughly. Ash is an excellent antiseptic and top dressing, and thanks to soap, the solution will firmly lie on the surface of the bark. An already cooled mixture is applied to the trunk and branches.
3. Dissolve ferrous sulfate (600 g) in water (10 l).

In order for the trees to feel good and bring healthy tasty fruits, disinfection solutions are changed annually. If you constantly use the same protective agent, over time copper, iron and other components of the finished solution will accumulate in excess in the bark of the tree, which will certainly affect the condition of the tree, and not in the best way.

Cover the wounds on the tree trunk. If you notice areas destroyed by something or damaged by insects in the thickness of the wood and on the surface of the bark, give the tree first aid by applying a wound healing agent to the diseased area. The following solutions are most popular:

• "RanNet" - a ready-made tool, is on sale;
• paste, which includes rosin, beeswax and unsalted fat in equal proportions. This is a self-cooking tool;
• a thick, dense mixture, kneaded with greasy clay, cow dung and straw with your own hands. The so-called clay talker is considered a traditional "medicine" for vulnerable areas on the bark. The most suitable consistency for application is the one that resembles cream. The crushed straw added to the mash will not allow the dry layer of clay to crack.

The choice of means for whitewashing and its preparation

There are several types of solutions that whitewash trees. One or another means for whitewashing is chosen, taking into account the type and age of the trees on the site. Here are a few recipes with the necessary components for preparing the solution:

1. Recipe number 1:

• manure - 1 kg;
• lime - 1 kg;
• copper sulfate - 0.2 kg;
• water - 8 l.

2. Recipe number 2:

• oily clay - 1 kg;
• slaked lime - 2 kg;
• cow dung - 1 shovel;
• copper sulfate - 0.25 kg;
• water - 10 l.

3. Recipe number 3:

• slaked lime - 2 kg;
• copper sulfate - 0.4 kg;
• casein glue - 0.1 kg;
• water - 10 l.

Whitewashing trees with lime involves strict adherence to the proportions of the mixed components. Young trees are bleached with gentle portions of dilute solutions with lime: annual seedlings are still too vulnerable and can get a serious burn from exposure to a concentrated whitewash.

All of the above recipes are good for fruit trees. A barren garden can be whitewashed with ready-made white acrylic paint: the coating is very resistant, so there is no need to re-whitewash after six months.

How to prepare a whitewash solution

1. Prepare all ingredients in the quantities indicated in the recipe. In order not to break the proportion, all components are collected in one measuring container.
2. Put all the ingredients in one container (in a bucket, for example) and mix them thoroughly.Evaluate the quality of the prepared protective solution by paying attention to its characteristics. The mass of whitewash should have an average consistency: easy to pour, but at the same time not very liquid. Well, if there are no lumps in it.
3. Before applying the solution for whitewash insist 2 - 3 hours.

How to whitewash trees

To carry out the procedure qualitatively, follow simple rules:

1. Apply the solution to the bark with a soft, wide brush that will easily reach the most inaccessible places.
2. Determine the height of the whitewash, guided by the height of each tree. On average, the height of application of the solution is from 1.5 to 1.7 m. It is desirable that the lower skeletal branches of the tree also be covered with a protective agent.
3. The ideal thickness of the whitewash layer does not exceed 2 - 3 mm. A denser layer of whitewash, having dried, will crack and crumble.
4. When covering a tree trunk with a protective agent, be sure to go deep into the ground a few centimeters. To do this, rake the soil around the trunk, and after the applied solution has dried, return it to its place.
5. If the applied coating has turned gray after drying, the brush with protective solution can be brushed over the trees again so that the coating acquires a pure white color.

As you can see, whitewashing trees is a simple, but rather time-consuming job. However, the desire to clean up your garden and get a bountiful harvest is an excellent incentive to carry out all the necessary work in a timely manner and with high quality.

Tree whitewashing. Video

Not just a tribute to fashion. This is part of an important agricultural technique - caring for. But the sense of it will be only if the barrel is properly prepared. The whole process includes 4 consecutive stages: cleaning the trunk, disinfecting the bark, sealing wounds and whitewashing itself.

Stage I: barrel cleaning

On many adults, especially on old trunks and bases of the lower skeletal branches, they settled and. The bark is cracked and peeling off. All this needs to be cleaned up. Experienced gardeners have special tools, but you can get by with improvised means.

The best ways to cleanse- sparing: hands in fabric gloves or a home-made "washcloth" made of plastic twine, folded in several layers.

Cleaning is carried out in wet weather. Cracks and depressions are treated with a wooden knife or even a pointed sliver so as not to injure the trunk. Supporters of this approach are categorically against metal brushes, scrapers and washcloths. And even more so against cleaning with a chopper or canvas, which can severely injure the tree. Other gardeners have been using them for years and consider it the norm. It is up to you to choose, the main thing is to observe the principle "Do no harm".

In any case, before cleaning the trunk, you need to spread an oilcloth or thick cloth under the tree. Cleaned moss, lichens, pieces of bark and the contents of cracks fall on it, where pests have found a winter refuge. All this will have to be taken away from the trees and burned.

And here is a practical video tutorial on caring for boles of fruit trees:

Stage II: disinfection

After cleaning the stem be sure to disinfect the entire cleaned surface, as well as those places where there are wounds and cracks. What is it for?

• Firstly, to destroy pests and pathogens that have already penetrated secluded corners.
• Secondly, to decontaminate new injuries that you could inadvertently inflict on the tree when cleaning the trunks. After all, any wound is a “wide gate” for infection.

How to disinfect

There are several folk and chemical methods that are successfully used by experienced gardeners. Consider the most common and inexpensive.

Ash (ash-soap) infusion
Dilute 2.5-3 kg of sifted in 10 liters of hot water and add 50-60 g of laundry soap for sticking. Wash the trunk and branches when the liquid is still warm (it is good if its temperature is above + 40ºС).

Ash Lye
Thoroughly mix 2.5-3 kg of sifted ash in 10 liters of water, bring to a boil and leave to cool. All the liquid that is above the sediment is lye ash. For spraying trunks and branches, it is diluted in a ratio of 1:1 or 1:2.

Copper-containing preparations

• 3-5% solution (dilute 300-500 g of copper sulfate in 10 liters of water);
• Bordeaux mixture (how to make it, read the article);
• Hom (a fungicide of systemic-local and contact action) at a concentration of 30-40 g per 10 liters of water;
• Oksihom (broad-spectrum systemic contact fungicide) at a concentration of 20 g per 10 liters of water.

Iron sulfate solution
can be used at a concentration of 3-5% or 6-8%. To do this, dilute 300-500 g of iron sulfate (or 600-800 g, respectively) in 10 liters of water

Attention! Although chemical preparations are effective, it is still not worth using them annually. Both copper and iron do not disappear anywhere. They safely accumulate in the bark and in, where they are washed out by precipitation, and in the end, having reached the “required concentration”, they become poison for both the tree and us.

Stage III: treatment (covering up) of wounds

After cleaning the trunk, all the wounds of the tree are “like on the palm of your hand”. Each of them is a magnet for all kinds of infections, so it needs to be treat with a special ointment for reliable protection.

How to heal wounds

Gardeners use many “putties” of different composition: clay mash, pastes and biomasks. They can be bought in specialized stores. For those who prefer to do everything with their own hands, we have prepared.

It is used to heal and protect tree wounds from drying out, rainfall and infection.

Ready pastes and biomasks
These are special modern putties to protect tree trunks from adverse weather conditions and pests.

• Garden paste "RanNet"

Putty paste for disinfection and healing of wood wounds. The composition includes copper sulfate and. Therefore, pre-treatment with copper-containing compounds can be dispensed with. Such a paste is more convenient than a homemade var: it is ready to use, “lays down” well and sticks well.

• Garden putty "BlagoSad"

Universal putty from the Ukrainian manufacturer. Has proven itself very well. Made on a natural fat basis, it does an excellent job of healing wounds and stays on the trunk for a long time.

Next video - application guide silver biomask Robin Green for the treatment of wounds, prevention and protection of the tree

Stage IV: actual whitewashing

Cleaning, disinfection and covering of wounds behind. There was a "cosmetic" part of tree care - whitewashing. It is important to answer 3 questions here:

1. What compositions to whiten?
2. What tools?
3. To what height?

Properly selected chemical composition of the mixture, method and are not trifles, but vital moments for the tree. "Beautiful - ugly, like - dislike" - these are our human categories, and the tree needs protection.

Types of whitewash mixtures

Trees are whitewashed with lime mortar, or water-dispersion paint.

lime mortars
Any whitewash composition should have 3 main components:

1. lime or chalk for whiteness;
2. Clay, soap, glue, etc. for sticking;
3. Copper sulphate, etc. for disinfection.

But in what proportions to combine these components, you can find out from the detailed ones.

Lime solutions for whitewashing trees have been used by gardeners since time immemorial. The protective qualities of such compounds are low. In addition, they are quickly washed away by rain. But due to its simplicity and affordable price, this option is still one of the most popular. “They don’t look for good from good,” the aksakals grumble, looking incredulously at purchased paints and biomasks)

Water-based and water-dispersion paints
Young summer residents, unlike fathers and grandfathers, are much more popular with ready-made coating compositions.

These include water-based garden paint (not to be confused with paint! on the right one there is a mark “for garden trees”). As the manufacturer promises, the water emulsion is durable and absolutely safe for wood. It forms a vapor-permeable "breathable" coating on wood, resistant to direct sunlight and water.

Popular and Water-dispersion garden paint for trees". It contains latex, pigment, antiseptic and modifying additives. It keeps well: on young trees for a year, and on adults - up to 2 years.

Water based paints it is necessary to bleach only at positive air temperature (preferably not lower than + 7 ° C, the minimum allowable is + 3 ° C). The drying time of such paint is approximately 1 hour “until tacky” and a day until it dries completely. The layer is thinner than when whitewashing with lime mortars, but lasts much longer.

How to whiten

For whitewashing large trees, we have long used special washcloth brushes. But in recent years, summer residents are increasingly using either artificial brushes of the same shape, or painting flywheels or maklovits. It is convenient to work with such brushes, they quickly and equally well whitewash both the smooth and rough surface of the trunks.

And it is convenient to whitewash young trees with a flat flute brush. A little longer than round, but whitewash consumption is less.

By the way, our gardeners are great inventors and innovators. They came up with the idea of ​​whitewashing old large trees with bumpy bark interconnected 3-4 flat brushes- and it is convenient, and it is whitened perfectly.

Some summer residents like to whiten paint rollers. And what is very convenient, long-haired fur coats do an excellent job with uneven surfaces, and the speed increases.

If there are a lot of trees in the garden and they are mature, you can’t brush or roll here. In this case, the most effective method - whitewashing with an airbrush - sprayer. And best of all - in two layers.

Regardless of the instruments chosen, whitewash trees only in dry weather. Then the whitewash will dry well and become resistant to precipitation.

Whitewash height

At what height to whitewash the trees in the garden is by no means an idle question. The most common "urban" method - to the same height of 1-1.2 m - is purely for beauty. There are few benefits from such whitewashing: they are illiterate and have not read about height restrictions.

Whitewashing wood is considered conditionally sufficient. according to the formula: the entire bole + 1/3 of the length of the lower skeletal branches. For adult trees (again, the average effective) whitewash height is considered to be 1.5-1.8 m, and experienced gardeners generally try to whiten their pets as high as possible - up to 2 m or more.

And if your trees are still sad and neglected, we hope this material will convince you to get out of town on a sunny fine day with a supply of brushes, garden pitch and a bucket of lime. To the delight of the garden, which will surely repay you in the same coin - cool greenery on hot summer days, beautiful and rich. Well, are we going?

Proper care of the fruit-bearing plants is the key to the good development of the garden and getting a quality harvest from it. One of the most important procedures is whitewashing trees in spring. In this article, we will consider the need for this event (goals pursued), the technology and give several recipes for whitening compositions.

By the way, plants can pick up "paint" and whiten professional gardeners. We will gladly get dirty in white instead of you! :)

Why whiten the fruit-bearers

To begin with, let's look at the need for such a procedure as whitewashing trees in the spring: why is it carried out and why at this particular time. This event has two important functions:

• burn protection;
• prevention against diseases and pests of the garden.

As a rule, in pursuit of these goals, fruit-bearers whiten twice a year. Whitewashing trees in spring and autumn are standard procedures carried out by experienced gardeners. If you paint the boles only once, it is not a fact that the whitening composition will last all year, it will gradually be washed away by rain. You can whiten more often, but with a properly prepared solution, only two procedures for 365 days are enough. :)

If in autumn the plant stems for some reason did not turn white, the trees are whitewashed in the spring, when warm days have not yet arrived. The earlier the better. The fact is that in March the weather can be changeable: during the day, the mercury column on the thermometer can greatly exceed zero, and at night it can fall below it. During the day, unbleached plants will become very hot in the sun (the dark color of the bark quickly absorbs the sun's rays), and at night the pillars will begin to cool quickly. Such a temperature difference can lead to cracking of the bark and other injuries. If the stems are whitened in time, such injuries can be avoided. White color will serve as a "mirror", reflecting the sun's rays.

Whitewashing fruit trees in the spring protects plants from injury in the summer as well. Even on particularly hot days, the whitening composition will serve as a prophylaxis against burns.

In addition to protecting plants from the sun, the garden is whitewashed in order to exterminate pests. First, before staining, the plants are cleaned of old bark, thereby destroying the nests of insects that have successfully overwintered in the pores. By coloring the fruit-bearer with the same lime, the eggs and pupae of insects are burned out.

You can host the event on your own or give away work in the hands of experienced gardeners. We will gladly take care of your boarding! :)

How to color stamps

So, now you know what whitewashing of trees is for in spring, while the composition of the whitening agent is selected depending on the type of plant and the goals pursued. The main function of staining is protection from the sun, however, if certain substances are added to the “paint”, the processing of the fruit-bearers will bring additional “pluses”.

If you do not want to prepare a whitening solution yourself, you can go to a specialized store and purchase a ready-made composition. When planning a procedure such as whitewashing trees in the spring, it is advisable to buy a special solution even in the winter. In the off season, the cost of the whitening composition will be significantly lower. Since March, prices in stores will increase significantly.

More and more popular today whitewashing trees in spring with acrylic paint. Such a composition is kept on the plant for a long time, it is not washed off for a long time. For better adhesion, you can add a little PVA glue to it, but this is optional. In principle, if the purchased solution has a sufficiently dense consistency and lays down evenly in a relatively thick layer, it is not necessary to introduce glue into it.

If you do not want to spend money on ready-made solutions - you can cook them yourself. Most gardeners prefer a procedure such as whitewashing trees in spring with lime. A white solution perfectly reflects the rays of the sun, at the same time, lime, like acid, burns pest eggs well.

Here is one of the universal recipes for "paint" based on lime. So, you will need the following ingredients:

• water - 2l;
• fluffy lime - 300 gr;
• copper sulfate - 2 tablespoons;
• clerical glue - 200 gr;
• clay - 200 gr;
• 20-30 gr of karbofos or urea.

Mix all the ingredients until a homogeneous mass is formed and proceed to staining. Please note that at the output you will get about 3 liters of the mixture, many plants cannot be whitened with this amount. It is enough for no more than 3-5 mature trees, depending on the coverage area.

For young trees, whitewashing trees with chalk in spring is more suitable. Lime can injure a fragile tree, so chalk-based mixtures are used. You can very well use the above recipe by simply replacing the lime with chalk.

This composition serves not only as a prophylaxis against burns and pests, but also increases immunity to various diseases. This is one of the universal recipes. By the way, in the fall it can also be used, but without karbofos (urea).

Recall that they will help to restore order on the site our professional gardeners. We will be happy to take care of your landing: quickly, efficiently and inexpensively! :)

Technology

Now consider what stages the procedure for whitewashing fruit trees in spring consists of:

1. Preparation for coloring - first you will need to clean the bole from the old dead bark. To do this, spread a fabric or oilcloth around the tree. Use a scraper to remove large pieces of bark. Then you need to clean the place of staining with a metal brush. If, in the process of removing the old bark, you injured the fruit-bearer, cover the injury site with garden pitch.
2. Whitewash - Apply bleach with a brush. Paint the trunk evenly, going into each pore (“vein”) with a brush. On the right, you can see in the pictures how the whitewashing of trees is carried out in the spring (the photo is enlarged).
3. Cleaning - after the plant has been treated, remove all debris around it. Actually, it will not be difficult to do this, since all of it will be on oilcloth (for this it is laid). It is desirable to burn the collected bark (it may contain pests and pathogens).

There is a misconception that whitewashing young trees in spring is not needed. Allegedly, plants are painted starting from a “mature” age, when the bark gets stronger and cracks begin to form in it, in which insects can settle. This is not the right decision. For immature young animals, getting burns can be fatal. So you will have to paint them white if you want to keep them healthy.

That's the whole theory. Happy spring work! :)

Whitewashing trees in spring video

Whitewashing is an important part of the autumn care of garden trees. A protective layer of lime or paint will protect their bark from temperature changes and sunburn, diseases and pest attacks.

Practically on any suburban area fruit or ornamental trees grow. Like many other garden crops, they require proper care from the owners. In autumn, an important procedure for taking care of the garden is the whitewashing of tree trunks, which is carried out in dry weather in October-November.

If you do not know how to properly whitewash the trees growing in your backyard, we will tell you about it.

Step 1: Preparing Trees for Whitewashing

The bark of trees is rarely perfect (especially in adult crops): it cracks, exfoliates, dies off, mosses and lichens appear on it. Therefore, before whitewashing, tree trunks must be brought into proper form. And you can only do this in wet weather.

Gardeners got the hang of cleaning tree trunks with the help of improvised means. Plastic or wooden objects are best suited for these purposes. Someone uses cloth gloves or dishwashing sponges with an abrasive surface to clean the bark. But metal tools (scrapers, brushes, etc.) are not recommended - they can damage the barrel.

After the bark is cleaned, the tree trunks must be disinfected. This is necessary in order to destroy pests and pathogens, as well as to disinfect damaged areas that may have appeared in the process of preparatory work.

Options for preparing a disinfectant solution for treating tree trunks before whitewashing
A drug	Solution preparation	Mode of application
Hom	dilute 30-40 g of the drug in 10 liters of water
blue vitriol	Dilute 300-500 substances in 10 liters of water	spray trunks with a spray bottle
inkstone	Dilute 300-500 g of the substance in 10 liters of water	spray trunks with a spray bottle
Ash + laundry soap	dissolve 50 g of laundry soap and 2-3 kg of ash in 10 liters of hot water	wash the tree trunks with the resulting mixture using a rag
Ash	Pour 2-3 kg of ash into a bucket of water (10 l), stir well, put on fire and bring to a boil	dilute the resulting concentrate with water in a ratio of 1: 1 and spray the trees

Disinfection of trunks of garden plants should be carried out in dry and clear weather.

The final stage of treatment is to cover the wounds. A tree "bare" after cleaning the trunk is more vulnerable to all kinds of diseases (even despite disinfection). In order to surely protect it from possible misfortunes, all existing wounds, cracks, chips and damage must be covered with a special agent. What types of putty can be used?

• Garden var. You can buy this tool in the store or make it yourself. To do this, melt over low heat in different containers, and then mix 200 g of beeswax and 100 g of rosin. Add 100 g of fat to the resulting mixture. When it melts, the mixture should be poured into cold water. Form a lump from the frozen plastic material. To cover the wounds of a tree with such a mixture, you need to slightly warm the garden pitch until it becomes plastic.
• Clay talker. Putty is prepared from clay and water - the composition is infused for several days until all the lumps dissolve. Then cow dung is added to the clay. The resulting mixture should have the consistency of thick sour cream. After that, the concentrate is mixed with a new portion of manure at the rate of 1:1, stirred well and 100 g of copper sulphate are added. The mixture is easily applied to areas of the trunk and holds well even on large wounds.

Step 2. Preparing the whitewash mixture

There are several options for making whitewash. And if you don't want to or can't make your own, look for special mixes at garden stores.

Ready mixes for whitewashing

The easiest way to get a whitening composition is to purchase it in a store. On sale you can find mixtures based on lime and clay. Their main advantage is that they do not "clog" the trunk and allow the tree to "breathe" freely.

However, these funds also have a drawback: by spring they are washed off the bark, and the trees need to be whitewashed again. Although responsible gardeners already re-whitewash in the spring, this should not be a big problem.

Homemade mixes

We have already considered the simplest option, now let's move on to the cheapest. As a rule, 3 main components are included in the whitewash solution:

1. white matter (lime or chalk),
2. "sticky" product (soap, PVA glue, clay, milk),
3. disinfectant component (copper sulfate).

The proportions in which these ingredients are mixed can be different, so there are many recipes for such mixtures. And this means that every summer resident will certainly find one that he can cook himself.

Whitewash recipe No. 1

• 2 kg of slaked lime,
• 300 g of copper (or 500 g of iron sulfate),
• 10 liters of water
• 1 st. l. carbolic acid (to protect against hares and mice).

Whitewash recipe number 2

• 2.5 kg of chalk,
• 10 liters of water
• 10 st. l. soap shavings.

Whitewash recipe No. 3

• 2-2.5 kg of slaked lime,
• 10 liters of water
• 250-300 g of copper sulfate,
• 1 kg of oily clay.

All components in each of the recipes must be mixed so that a homogeneous mass is obtained. By consistency, it should resemble sour cream or thin dough. Too thick a solution will form a dense crust and eventually begin to fall off in pieces. Liquid whitewash runs the risk of completely draining down the trunk and leaving the tree unprotected.

Paint for whitewashing trees

Trees can also be whitewashed with paint: acrylic or water-based (if it contains antifungal and bactericidal components). Painting will protect the trunks from the penetration of pathogens under the bark.

However, this method of whitewashing also has a minus: young plants cannot be treated with acrylic paint, since it does not allow the thin bark to "breathe".

As for water-based paint, it perfectly protects trees from frost, but cannot protect them from pests that can sneak under the bark. Therefore, it is recommended to add copper-containing preparations to it.

Step 3. We select a brush for whitewashing

For applying whitewash on tree trunks, they are most often used regular soft brush. It is convenient to work with it, and it also allows you to process even the most difficult areas of the cortex. And the brush is great for whitewashing young trees. For processing adult cultures, you can tie several (3-4 brushes) together - this will significantly reduce the time for whitewashing.

Suitable for whitewashing trees and paint roller. This tool also allows you to speed up the process of whitewashing the garden. In addition, the use of a roller will improve the quality of the painting.

If a huge garden is laid out on the site, and it is not possible to whitewash all the trees with a brush and roller, you should use paint sprayer.

Step 4: Whiten the Trees

The first step is to determine to what height the trees can and should be whitewashed. Usually, when whitewashing horticultural crops, the entire bole (trunk from the ground to the first skeletal branch) and the lower skeletal branches are painted for 1/3 of their length.

The next stage is directly whitewashing. The prepared mixture should be applied to the surface of the trunk so that it is well dyed. When using a sprayer, the paint should be laid in 2 layers.

The most common mistakes gardeners make when whitewashing trees

Whitewashing a tree is not so difficult, but some conditions still need to be known and observed so that minor (as it may seem at first glance) shortcomings do not lead to serious problems. What mistakes do summer residents sometimes make when whitewashing a garden?

• The solution is not applied too carefully, which is why pests, fungal spores and pathogenic microorganisms remain in the unpainted areas.
• When cleaning the trunks, do not lay material to collect the "garbage" removed from the trees. As a result, insects and disease spores cleaned from the bark penetrate the soil, successfully wait out the winter and continue their harmful activity in the spring.
• Apply whitewash too thick. It turns out that excessive zeal is also fraught with problems: white can begin to peel off and crumble. The optimal layer thickness is 2-3 mm.

Carry out whitewashing correctly so that the trees in the garden are reliably protected from a variety of misfortunes. There is nothing complicated in such a process of preparing the garden for winter. A little practice and you'll be fine.