In Russian folk cuisine, there are three main varieties of meat second courses:
Boiled meat in a large piece, cooked in soups and gruels, and then used as a second course or as a cold snack;
Dishes from offal (liver, omentum, abomasum), baked together with cereals in pots;
Dishes from a whole animal (poultry) or from a part of it (legs), or from a large piece of meat (rump, rump), roasted in an oven on a baking sheet, the so-called roast.
Various cutlets, meatballs, meatballs, dumplings made from ground meat, borrowed and spread only in the 19th-20th centuries, are not typical for classical Russian cuisine and therefore are not given here.
In the past, porridges and gruels were usually used as side dishes for meat dishes of the Russian table, in which meat was cooked, then either boiled, or rather steamed and baked, root vegetables (turnips, carrots), as well as mushrooms; to the roast, regardless of the meat used, in addition, pickles were also served - sauerkraut, pickled and sour apples, pickled lingonberries, boils.
In modern conditions, it is convenient to cook baked vegetables for Russian meat dishes in aluminum food foil. The role of gravy is usually played by the juice formed during frying, as well as melted sour cream and melted butter, which are poured over boiled vegetables or flavored with cereals, that is, a side dish. Sauces for meat dishes, i.e., sauces based on flour, butter, eggs and milk, are not characteristic of native Russian cuisine.
JELLY
:
1 head (veal or pork), 4 legs (veal or pork), 1 carrot, 1 parsley (root), 10 black peppercorns, 5 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 5 bay leaves, 1-2 onions, 1 garlic head , for 1 kg of meat - 1 liter of water.
Singe the legs and head, clean, cut into equal pieces, pour water and cook for 6 to 8 hours on very low heat, without boiling, so that the volume of water is reduced by half. 1-1.5 hours before the end of cooking, add onions, carrots, parsley, 20 minutes - pepper, bay leaf; salt a little.
Then take out the meat, separate from the bones, cut into small pieces, transfer to a separate bowl, mix with finely chopped garlic and a small amount of ground black pepper.
Boil the broth with the remaining bones for another half an hour or an hour (so that its volume does not exceed 1 liter), add salt, strain and pour over the boiled prepared meat.
Freeze for 3-4 hours.
Gelatin is not used, since young meat (veal, pig, pork) contains a sufficient amount of sticky substances.
Serve the jelly with horseradish, mustard, crushed garlic and sour cream.
BOILED BEEF
Boiled beef in a large piece (1.5-2 kg) is boiled in gruels (Tikhvin, Kostroma) and less often in bone broths (the broth from the bones is prepared in advance and then the meat is immersed in the boiling broth).
For boiled beef, mainly the shoulder and thigh parts are used, as well as the hem, a thin edge.
The usual cooking time is 2.5 hours on moderate heat.
NANNY
:
1 lamb head, 4 lamb legs, 1 mutton abomasum, 2 cups buckwheat, 4 onions, 100 g butter or sunflower oil.
1. Boil the lamb head and legs so that the meat itself falls behind the bones. Separate the meat. Take the brain out of your head.
2. Cook steep buckwheat porridge.
3. Finely chop lamb meat together with onions, mix with porridge and butter.
4. Thoroughly scrape the lamb rennet, wash it, stuff it with prepared minced meat (point 3), put brains in the middle of it, sew up the abomasum and place it in earthenware (a wide clay pot in a korchaga), which is tightly closed.
Place in a slightly heated oven for 2-3 hours.
STUFFING BOX
:
1 lamb omentum, 1 kg of lamb liver, 1.5-2 cups of buckwheat, 3 eggs, 3 onions, 5-6 dry porcini mushrooms, 1 cup of sour cream.
Soak the liver for 2 hours in water or milk, boil, chop finely, mix with steep buckwheat porridge cooked with onions and crushed dry mushrooms and knead on sour cream into a thick mass.
Fill with it the omentum, previously laid in a korchaga (wide clay pot) so that the edges of the omentum tightly cover this mass from above.
Close the pot.
Bake the omentum in the oven for 1-1.5 hours over moderate heat.
REPRINT
:
1.5 kg of lamb liver, 1 lamb omentum, 4 eggs, 1-1.5 cups of milk, 1 head of garlic, 2 onions, 10 black peppercorns.
1. Rinse the raw liver, remove the films, boil with boiling water, chop finely, and then pound with finely chopped onion, garlic and pepper.
2. Beat two full eggs and two yolks, mix with milk.
3. Combine the products indicated in paragraphs 1 and 2, pour into a lamb omentum placed in a clay pot, close the edges of the omentum from above, grease with whipped proteins and bake in an oven or oven for 2-3 hours over low heat.
Roasted piglet
:
1 suckling pig (1.5 kg), 500 g buckwheat, 50 g butter, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of sunflower or olive oil.
Pig preparation.
Wash the well-fed piglet with cold water, hold it in it for 3-4 minutes, then dip it in boiling water for 2-3 minutes, carefully pluck the bristles without damaging the skin, rub with flour, singe, then rip, gut, wash inside and out, after which it is desirable from the inside, cut out all the bones (ribs, spine), with the exception of the head and legs, in no case cutting through the meat and skin through.
Minced meat preparation.
Prepare cool buckwheat porridge, but do not flavor with anything other than butter. Before cooking, fry the grits with butter, scald with boiling water, separate the floating grains. Season the cooked porridge with salt. Add fried and chopped pig liver to it, mix.
Stuffed piglet.
Lay the porridge along the piglet evenly throughout, so as not to distort its shape, avoiding thickening in some places, at the same time it is quite tight. Then sew the piglet with a harsh thread, straighten the shape, bend the legs, put on the baking sheet sideways on birch sticks arranged crosswise so that the skin of the piglet does not touch the baking sheet. You can not salt or flavor with spices.
Roasting a pig.
Coat the piglet with vegetable oil, pour melted butter on top and put in a preheated oven until browned. Then turn over and brown the other side. After that, reduce the heat and continue to fry, pouring the flowing juice over the piglet every 10 minutes for 1 hour and turning it over alternately: fry the back up for 15-20 minutes.
When the piglet is ready, make a deep incision along its back so that steam comes out of the piglet and it does not sweat. In this case, the crust will remain dry and crispy. Let stand for 15 minutes, cut into pieces (or leave whole), pour over the juice remaining after frying and serve with cranberry broth.
ROAST
:
2-2.5 kg of well-fed beef (thick edge), 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 parsley or celery, 6-8 black pepper grains, 3-4 bay leaves, 2 teaspoons of ginger, 0.5 cups of sour cream, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1-1.5 cups of kvass.
Wash the beef, remove films, bones, cut off the fat from it, cut it into small pieces, put it on a preheated frying pan or baking sheet, melt, calcine, fry the whole piece of beef in it so that it becomes covered with a crust, sprinkling with finely chopped carrots, onions, parsley and crushed spices, then place in the oven, pour a little kvass every 10 minutes, turning all the time.
Fry for about 1-1.5 hours.
5-7 minutes before the end of frying, collect all the juice in a cup, add 0.25 cups of cold boiled water to it, put in the refrigerator.
When the juice has cooled, remove the layer of fat from the surface, and heat the meat juice, strain, add sour cream. Serve as a dipping sauce.
Remove the cooked beef from the oven, salt, let it cool slightly (15 minutes), then cut across the fibers into pieces, pour over hot meat juice and serve.
Roasts are not served cold or reheated.
Garnish can be fried potatoes, boiled or stewed carrots, turnips, rutabaga, fried or stewed mushrooms.
The most traditional broths are onion, cabbage, cranberry.
Maybe in your library there is a book by Pokhlebkin? About tea, vodka, cereals, pancakes, entertaining cooking? Then this is not surprising: the circulation of his books is approaching one hundred million, and it is published and republished all over the world. “A funny pseudonym,” you probably thought, “William Pokhlebkin is somehow exquisitely culinary.” The way it is. When a highly educated person has a hobby, he becomes a professional in it. So it was when the doctor V.V. Dal compiled the Living Dictionary of the Russian Language, doctor A.P. Chekhov became a classic of Russian literature. And the candidate of historical sciences V.V. Pokhlebkin became a historian of Russian cuisine.
Pokhlebkin William Vasilievich
His full name is William-August. Born into the family of the revolutionary leader Mikhailov, the child received a revolutionary name: Wil-August. It is composed of the initials of the leader and the name of Bebel, a German revolutionary.
Pokhlebkin William Vasilyevich is from the generation that in 1941, immediately after the graduation ball, went to the front. He was a scout, went through the entire war. He knew Serbo-Croatian, German, Italian and Swedish. In the last year he served as orderly at the soldier's kitchen, where his talents began to open up.
After the war, he graduated from MGIMO and worked at the Institute of History of the Academy of Sciences. Not finding a point of contact with the authorities, he quits and conducts research in private. On his fees from translations there is a magazine "Scandinavian Collection".
For a long time he lived on 38 kopecks a day, eating only tea and brown bread. His recipes were published in the Ogonyok magazine. The culinary column in the Nedelya newspaper was so valued that people bought the newspaper just because of it. "Science and Life" in parts published two of his books on its pages.
He was married twice, but family life did not work out. Children, daughter Gudrun and son August, now live abroad.
The scientist ended his life tragically - his body with traces of numerous wounds was found in the apartment on April 13, 2000. He was buried at the Golovinsky cemetery.
"History of vodka"
This is the name of one of the books of William Vasilyevich. And he himself is called "who beat off Russian vodka from the Poles." In international trade in the twentieth century, a situation arose when it was necessary to confirm the beginning of distillation in Russia.
Strange, but neither the Institute of History nor the Institute of Fermentation Products could document the authenticity of the recipe for Russian vodka. Then Pokhlebkin got down to business and proved that in Russia they began to manufacture it a hundred years earlier than Poland.
The Arbitration Court confirmed this, and now real vodka can only be advertised by our country.
Bread
Pokhlebkin William Vasilyevich collected Russian recipes with love. He details the chemical processes that take place as dough ages and bread is baked. Explains the difference between a metal sheet and a baking sheet by comparing baking results.
It turns out that the bread of all peoples turns out to be different, and this largely depends on the hearth. Hearth bread was baked in a Russian oven, a baking sheet was used for sweet pastries, and a leaf was used for cookies.
He begins his story about bread with a simple recipe, which he advises to immediately cook in a gas oven. It takes 15-30 minutes and the result is a delicious flatbread.
Here is the recipe: fifty grams of yeast (this is half a pack) is dissolved in 125 ml of water (half a glass), adding two tablespoons of flour. Set them aside and prepare the filler - finely chop the onion.
Then turn on the oven and continue to cook the dough. Half a glass of milk and a third of a glass of vegetable oil, onion, two pinches of salt are added to the sponge and flour is added, constantly stirring. The dough should be soft and easy to fall behind hands.
Cakes are made from this mass, a sheet is placed on the top shelf of the oven and baked for ten minutes over moderate heat. Then spread on a wooden board and cover with a towel. You can try after 25 minutes - then the bread will finally ripen.
Kitchen
Bit by bit, Pokhlebkin William Vasilyevich collected recipes for Russian cuisine. It turns out that at the beginning of the twentieth century it was so vast and rich that it was compared with the French. The author notes several stages of its formation, each of which left a significant mark.
Russian cuisine is divided into two tables: lean and modest. They, in turn, are divided into noble and simple. The regional division of the country also influences culinary traditions.
All options, all examples of dishes, Pokhlebkin tries himself, only after that he recommends to his readers. This was used in the editorial office of Ogonyok, where he brought another recipe. Usually it has already been prepared and tasted.
William Vasilyevich deduced five laws of baking. Having mastered them, it is easy to cook with any number of products, even with some missing ingredients. Compiled 15 tips for the cook and 10 reminders for the kitchen. Explained the difference between frying and baking. It turns out that the barbecue is baked! He taught me to choose a pan for dumplings and a frying pan for stewing and frying.
For a young housewife, his books contain enough experience to learn how to cook.
Historical information about the food of Russians
What did our ancestors eat when there were no potatoes? It turns out that there are many delicious dishes. Turnip steamed in a Russian oven became sweet, they added oatmeal to it and ate it with pleasure. Kissel was also cooked from turnips.
We used a lot of river fish, distinguishing it by taste and compliance with certain dishes. Mushrooms were also cooked differently and in different ways. They made kvass, honey, urine.
Pancakes used to be called "mlyny", from the word "sweep". They were a ritual dish, baked red and served as a symbol of the sun.
For all names, William Pokhlebkin gives a description of the recipes and a detailed method of preparation. He believed that with a lack of food, one should not cook badly, one should do it even more nutritious and healthy.
He writes a lot about fermentation, in comparison with which pickling deprives food of vitamins. Learn how to prepare vegetables and fruits correctly. Modern dietetics has only now begun to promote healthy food processing, and Pokhlebkin has covered its biochemistry in detail a long time ago.
National dishes
Pokhlebkin William Vasilievich compares recipes of Russian cuisine with recipes of the peoples of the USSR, Scandinavian, Finnish cooking methods. He is also a connoisseur of European cuisine. Reading his books will broaden your horizons.
Pokhlebkin speaks about sour milk in great detail, talking about the fermentation process and its types. Ayran, yogurt, varenets - this is from the cuisine of neighboring peoples. And in Russia there was cheese curd. So called curdled milk before.
In general, milk was not processed in any way until the nineteenth century. They drank raw, made cottage cheese. Oil appeared on the table quite recently by historical standards.
French chefs enriched Russian cuisine - they began to make salads, casseroles, minced meat, finely chop fillings into pies, make sauces, and mix products. Prior to this, there was a tendency to cook the whole carcass or plant, even boiled vegetables separately.
Okroshka
William Pokhlebkin has collected several recipes for various okroshkas. All of them are real folk dishes. In the peasant economy there was such a time in the summer when, in order to avoid a fire, it was forbidden to heat stoves. This was the royal decree of 1571. Although this dish has been known as “radish with kvass” for over a thousand years.
Okroshka is included in cold soups, including tyuri and botvini. It turns out that the okroshka recipe that is now being made in our country has nothing to do with a real dish.
First, no sausage. Since okroshka was prepared from various leftovers as an everyday dish, three types of meat were put: pig, poultry and game. Not all fish were suitable, only tench, perch or pike perch for a sweetish taste.
Secondly, it was not bread kvass that was added to it, but more sour white kvass. It was flavored with spices and sometimes put a little urination or pickles.
The basis was boiled vegetables. Greens and fresh cucumbers accounted for half of the vegetable volume. Hard boiled eggs and sour cream were added before meals.
William Pokhlebkin: books
Starting with cooperation in compiling the famous "Book of Tasty and Healthy Food", William Pokhlebkin continued this topic in his monographs on national cuisines.
He opens the "Secrets of Good Cuisine", writes the study "Tea and Vodka in Russia". Raising the layer of times, he systematized the history of Russian culinary culture and the most important food products.
Cooking books by William Pokhlebkin are written easily, with digressions and short stories on the topic. It is pleasant to read them, the style is elegant. In addition, they provide valuable knowledge. The author reveals the principles of cooking, not content with giving a dry recipe.
He also has serious scientific works: "Tatars and Russia", a series on the foreign policy of our country, a detailed description of international symbols, recent history.
All that Pokhlebkin William Vasilyevich left behind is books. They can be read online or ordered by mail. His books are a wonderful gift. Make yourself happy with them.
Chapter:
William Vasilievich Pokhlebkin
"NATIONAL CUISINES OF OUR PEOPLES"
7th page of the section
Russian kitchen
SECOND DISHES - MEAT DISHES
In Russian folk cuisine, there are three main varieties of meat second courses:
Boiled meat in a large piece, cooked in soups and gruels, and then used as a second course or as a cold snack;
Dishes from offal (liver, omentum, abomasum), baked together with cereals in pots;
Dishes from a whole animal (poultry) or from a part of it (legs), or from a large piece of meat (rump, rump), roasted in an oven on a baking sheet, the so-called roast.
Various cutlets, meatballs, meatballs, dumplings made from ground meat, borrowed and spread only in the 19th-20th centuries, are not typical for classical Russian cuisine and therefore are not given here.
In the past, porridges and gruels were usually used as side dishes for meat dishes of the Russian table, in which meat was cooked, then either boiled, or rather steamed and baked, root vegetables (turnips, carrots), as well as mushrooms; to the roast, regardless of the meat used, in addition, pickles were also served - sauerkraut, soaked and sour apples, soaked lingonberries, boils.
In modern conditions, it is convenient to cook baked vegetables for Russian meat dishes in aluminum food foil. The role of gravy is usually played by the juice formed during frying, as well as melted sour cream and melted butter, which are poured over boiled vegetables or flavored with cereals, that is, a side dish. Sauces for meat dishes, i.e., sauces based on flour, butter, eggs and milk, are not characteristic of native Russian cuisine.
DISHES FROM BOILED MEAT
Ingredients:
1 head (veal or pork), 4 legs (veal or pork), 1 carrot, 1 parsley (root), 10 black peppercorns, 5 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 5 bay leaves, 1-2 onions, 1 garlic head , for 1 kg of meat - 1 liter of water.
Cooking
Singe the legs and head, clean, cut into equal pieces, pour water and cook for 6 to 8 hours on very low heat, without boiling, so that the volume of water is reduced by half. 1-1.5 hours before the end of cooking, add onions, carrots, parsley, 20 minutes before - pepper, bay leaf; salt a little.
Then take out the meat, separate from the bones, cut into small pieces, transfer to a separate bowl, mix with finely chopped garlic and a small amount of ground black pepper.
Boil the broth with the remaining bones for another half an hour or an hour (so that its volume does not exceed 1 liter), add salt, strain and pour over the boiled prepared meat.
Freeze for 3-4 hours.
Gelatin is not used, since young meat (veal, pig, pork) contains a sufficient amount of sticky substances.
Serve the jelly with horseradish, mustard, crushed garlic and sour cream.
BOILED BEEF
Boiled beef in a large piece (1.5-2 kg) is boiled in gruels (Tikhvin, Kostroma) and less often in bone broths (the broth from the bones is prepared in advance and then the meat is immersed in the boiling broth).
For boiled beef, mainly the shoulder and thigh parts are used, as well as the hem, a thin edge.
The usual cooking time is 2.5 hours on moderate heat.
OFFAL DISHES (BAKED)
Ingredients:
1 lamb head, 4 lamb legs, 1 mutton abomasum, 2 cups buckwheat, 4 onions, 100 g butter or sunflower oil.
Cooking
1. Boil the lamb head and legs so that the meat itself falls behind the bones. Separate the meat. Take the brain out of your head.
2. Cook steep buckwheat porridge.
3. Finely chop lamb meat together with onions, mix with porridge and butter.
4. Thoroughly scrape the lamb rennet, wash it, stuff it with prepared minced meat (point 3), put brains in the middle of it, sew up the abomasum and place it in an earthenware dish (a wide clay pot in a korchaga), which is tightly closed.
Place in a slightly heated oven for 2-3 hours.
STUFFING BOX
Ingredients:
1 lamb omentum, 1 kg of lamb liver, 1.5-2 cups of buckwheat, 3 eggs, 3 onions, 5-6 dry porcini mushrooms, 1 cup of sour cream.
Cooking
Soak the liver for 2 hours in water or milk, boil, chop finely, mix with steep buckwheat porridge cooked with onions and crushed dry mushrooms and knead on sour cream into a thick mass.
Fill with it the omentum, previously laid in a korchaga (wide clay pot) so that the edges of the omentum tightly cover this mass from above.
Close the pot.
Bake the omentum in the oven for 1-1.5 hours over moderate heat.
REPRINT
Ingredients:
1.5 kg of lamb liver, 1 lamb omentum, 4 eggs, 1-1.5 cups of milk, 1 head of garlic, 2 onions, 10 black peppercorns.
Cooking
1. Rinse the raw liver, remove the films, boil with boiling water, chop finely, and then pound with finely chopped onion, garlic and pepper.
2. Beat two full eggs and two yolks, mix with milk.
3. Combine the products indicated in paragraphs 1 and 2, pour into a lamb omentum placed in a clay pot, close the edges of the omentum from above, grease with whipped proteins and bake in an oven or oven for 2-3 hours over low heat.
Roasted meat dishes
Roasted piglet
Ingredients:
1 suckling pig (1.5 kg), 500 g buckwheat, 50 g butter, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of sunflower or olive oil.
Cooking
Pig preparation.
Wash the well-fed piglet with cold water, hold it in it for 3-4 minutes, then dip it in boiling water for 2-3 minutes, carefully pluck the bristles without damaging the skin, rub with flour, singe, then rip, gut, wash inside and out, after which it is desirable from the inside, cut out all the bones (ribs, spine), with the exception of the head and legs, in no case cutting through the meat and skin through.
Minced meat preparation.
Prepare cool buckwheat porridge, but do not flavor with anything other than butter. Before cooking, fry the grits with butter, scald with boiling water, separate the floating grains. Season the cooked porridge with salt. Add fried and chopped pig liver to it, mix.
Stuffed piglet.
Lay the porridge along the piglet evenly throughout, so as not to distort its shape, avoiding thickening in some places, at the same time it is quite tight. Then sew the piglet with a harsh thread, straighten the shape, bend the legs, put on the baking sheet sideways on birch sticks arranged crosswise so that the skin of the piglet does not touch the baking sheet. You can not salt or flavor with spices.
Roasting a pig.
Coat the piglet with vegetable oil, pour melted butter on top and put in a preheated oven until browned. Then turn over and brown the other side. After that, reduce the heat and continue to fry, pouring the flowing juice over the piglet every 10 minutes for 1 hour and turning it over alternately: fry the back up for 15-20 minutes.
When the piglet is ready, make a deep incision along its back so that steam comes out of the piglet and it does not sweat. In this case, the crust will remain dry and crispy. Let stand for 15 minutes, cut into pieces (or leave whole), pour over the juice remaining after frying and serve with cranberry broth.
ROAST
Ingredients:
2-2.5 kg of well-fed beef (thick edge), 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 parsley or celery, 6-8 black pepper grains, 3-4 bay leaves, 2 teaspoons of ginger, 0.5 cups of sour cream, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1-1.5 cups of kvass.
Cooking
Wash the beef, remove films, bones, cut off the fat from it, cut it into small pieces, put it on a preheated frying pan or baking sheet, melt, calcine, fry the whole piece of beef in it so that it becomes covered with a crust, sprinkling with finely chopped carrots, onions, parsley and crushed spices, then place in the oven, pour a little kvass every 10 minutes, turning all the time.
Fry for about 1-1.5 hours.
5-7 minutes before the end of frying, collect all the juice in a cup, add 0.25 cups of cold boiled water to it, put in the refrigerator.
When the juice has cooled, remove the layer of fat from the surface, and heat the meat juice, strain, add sour cream. Serve as a dipping sauce.
Remove the cooked beef from the oven, salt, let it cool slightly (15 minutes), then cut across the fibers into pieces, pour over hot meat juice and serve.
Roasts are not served cold or reheated.
Garnish can be fried potatoes, boiled or stewed carrots, turnips, rutabaga, fried or stewed mushrooms.
EXPLOSION TO THE Roast
Explosions have a plant base - vegetable or berry. Additional components in them are often vinegar and honey.
The most traditional broths are onion, cabbage, cranberry.
ONION FLUSH
Ingredients:
5-6 onions, 2-3 tbsp. tablespoons of vinegar, 1-2 tbsp. spoons of honey, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of melted butter (or 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil), 0.5-1 teaspoon of ground pepper.
Cooking
Chop the onion, moisten with vinegar, let stand for 5-10 minutes, then lightly fry in a pan until soft, sweeten with honey, boil until the liquid thickens over low heat, pepper, salt.
Serve with roast lamb, goose, turkeys.
CABBAGE FLUSH
Ingredients:
1 half-liter jar of sauerkraut, 2 onions, 50 g of ghee, 2 tbsp. spoons of vinegar, 2 tbsp. spoons of honey, 1 teaspoon of ground black pepper.
Cooking
Chop the cabbage as finely as possible, fry in oil in a frying pan with finely chopped onions until soft, mix well with vinegar boiled with honey (in a separate enameled bowl - mug, stewpan), grind everything thoroughly, again stew a little, season with pepper , salt.
Serve with goose, boiled and fried beef.
CRANBERRY
Ingredients:
1 half-liter jar of cranberries, 75-100 g of honey, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of flour (preferably rye or the cheapest wheat).
Cooking
Squeeze juice from cranberries. Pour the pomace with 1 cup of boiling water, boil well in a saucepan, squeeze again, cool and dilute the flour in this cranberry water.
Boil the juice with honey until slightly thickened, add cranberry water with flour at the moment of boiling and boil again.
Serve with roast pig, turkey.
William Pokhlebkin. Recipes of our life
In March 2000, under mysterious circumstances, the famous scientist William Pokhlebkin was killed at the door of his apartment.
Newspapers were full of scandalous headlines, but Pokhlebkin's life was no less mysterious than his tragic death.
At thirty-seven, William Vasilievich became a famous historian of the twentieth century. However, he was recognized only abroad. He spoke seven languages, but turned out to be "not allowed to travel abroad." At forty, Pokhlebkin was left without a penny of money and was doomed to starvation. At forty-five, a treasure fell on his head. At sixty, the whole world spoke of him as a brilliant cook, and at seventy-six, his mutilated body was found in his own apartment.
Why was a historian, culinary specialist, journalist, who devoted his whole life to his native country, not loved by the authorities?
And who could be behind his death?
The mystery of the death of the culinary specialist Pokhlebkin
Some thought he was crazy. Others have argued that he is a closet dissident who has deliberately lived his life outside the state, outside the system. Still others said that he traded his unique research talent for some nonsense - writing recipes, food books and gastronomic advice for housewives.
Those who thought so were wrong. The culinary talent and mind of William Pokhlebkin were in demand. His works have become a kind of school of tasty and healthy national food in the USSR. His recipes made it possible for thousands of ordinary Soviet people to try their hand at the art of cooking and feel the joy of creativity in their own kitchen.
Director: Vera Kilchevskaya
Screenwriter: Alexander Krastoshevsky
William Vasilievich Pokhlebkin
Was born: August 20, 1923, Moscow
Died: March 2000, Podolsk, Moscow region
- Shakotis
Biography
Pokhlebkin William Vasilievich(August 20, 1923 - end of March 2000) - Soviet, Russian scientist, historian, geographer, journalist and writer. Author of famous cookery books. Connoisseur of the history of diplomacy and international relations, heraldry and ethnography.
V. V. Pokhlebkin is widely known, in particular, thanks to cookbooks that are fascinating and contain a lot of historical and interesting little-known information.
His cookery books Secrets of Good Cuisine and National Cuisines of Our Nations contain not strict recipes, but methods of preparing various dishes, including long-forgotten ones. To some extent, these books are also historical, as they contain information about the history of various dishes and cooking in general. Among professionals, he is known as the first theoretical chef in history, who gave the world cuisine a universal classification based on technology.
The book about tea - "Tea: Its types, properties, use" - is revered by many lovers of this drink.
The book "History of Vodka" was translated into English and known throughout the world (en: A History of Vodka).
William Pokhlebkin: top recipes of Russian cuisine
William Pokhlebkin became famous not only as a scientist and specialist in international relations, but also as a culinary researcher. William Pokhlebkin became the most famous gastronomic historian in Russia. He wrote more than one cookbook; according to his recipes of Russian cuisine, people still learn how to cook. woman's day collected the most famous dishes of William Pokhlebkin.
Shchi rich (full): recipe
Ingredients:
750 g of beef, 500-750 g or 1 half-liter can of sauerkraut, 4-5 dry porcini mushrooms, 0.5 cups of salted mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 large potato, 1 turnip, 2 onions, 1 celery root and greens, 1 root and parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. l. butter or ghee, 1 tbsp. l. cream, 100 g sour cream, 8 black peppercorns, 1 tsp. marjoram or dry angelica (dawn).
Put the beef together with the onion and half of the roots (carrots, parsley, celery) in cold water and boil for 2 hours. After 1-1.5 hours after the start of cooking, salt, then strain the broth, discard the roots.
Put sauerkraut in a clay pot, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water, add butter, close, put in a moderately heated oven. When the cabbage begins to soften, remove it and combine with strained broth and beef.
Mushrooms and a potato cut into four parts put in an enameled saucepan, pour 2 cups of cold water and put on fire. When the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips and lower into the mushroom broth to cook. After the mushrooms and potatoes are ready, combine with the meat broth.
To the combined broths and cabbage, add finely chopped onion, all other roots, cut into strips, and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill and garlic and let it brew for about 15 minutes, wrapped in something warm. Before serving, season with coarsely chopped salted mushrooms and sour cream directly in the plates.
Studen: recipe
Ingredients:
1 head (veal or pork), 4 legs (veal or pork), 1 carrot, 1 parsley (root), 5 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 10 black peppercorns, 5 bay leaves, 1-2 onions, 1 garlic head , for 1 kg of meat - 1 liter of water.
Singe the legs and head, clean, cut into equal pieces, pour water and cook for 6 to 8 hours on very low heat, without boiling, so that the volume of water is reduced by half. 1-1.5 hours before the end of cooking, add onions, carrots, parsley, 20 minutes before cooking. - pepper, bay leaf; salt a little. Then take out the meat, separate from the bones, cut into small pieces, transfer to a separate bowl, mix with finely chopped garlic and a small amount of ground black pepper. Boil the broth with the remaining bones for another half an hour or an hour (so that its volume does not exceed 1 liter), add salt, strain and pour over the boiled prepared meat. Freeze for 3-4 hours.
Gelatin is not used, since young meat (veal, pig, pork) contains a sufficient amount of sticky substances.
Serve the jelly with horseradish, mustard, crushed garlic and sour cream.
Roast: recipe
Ingredients:
2-2.5 kg of well-fed beef (thick edge), 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 parsley or celery, 6-8 black pepper grains, 3-4 bay leaves, 2 tsp. ginger, 0.5 cups of sour cream, 1 tsp. salt, 1-1.5 cups of kvass.
Wash the beef, remove films, bones, cut off the fat from it, cut it into small pieces, put it on a preheated frying pan or baking sheet, melt, calcine, fry the whole piece of beef in it so that it becomes covered with a crust, sprinkling with finely chopped carrots, onions, parsley and crushed spices, then place in the oven, water every 10 minutes. little by little kvass, turning all the time. Fry for about 1-1.5 hours. For 5-7 minutes. until the end of frying, collect all the juice in a cup, add 0.25 cups of cold boiled water to it, refrigerate. When the juice has cooled, remove the layer of fat from the surface, heat the juice, strain, add sour cream. Serve as a dipping sauce. Remove the cooked beef from the oven, salt, let it cool slightly (15 minutes), then cut across the fibers into pieces, pour over hot meat juice and serve.
Roasts are not served cold or reheated. Garnish can be fried potatoes, boiled or stewed carrots, turnips, rutabaga, fried or stewed mushrooms.
Pike in sour cream: recipe
Ingredients:
1-1.5 kg of pike, 1-2 tbsp. l. sunflower oil, 300-450 g sour cream, 1-2 tsp. ground black pepper, 1 lemon (juice and zest), 1 pinch of nutmeg.
Fish with a specific odor (for example, pike, some types of sea fish) require special processing and preparation methods.
Peel the pike, rub it with pepper inside and out, pour over with oil and put it entirely in a deep frying pan on a ceramic stand (you can use a saucer) and open it in the oven for 7-10 minutes to make the fish brown. Then transfer to a tighter bowl, pour sour cream, half covering the pike with it, close the lid and put in the oven on low heat for 45-60 minutes. Put the finished fish on a dish, pour over lemon juice, and heat the resulting gravy on the stove until thickened, salt, season with grated nutmeg and zest and serve separately to the fish in a gravy boat or pour over the fish with it.
Fried mushrooms: recipe
Ingredients:
4 cups of peeled mushrooms (different), 100-150 g of sunflower oil, 2 onions, 1 tbsp. l. dill, 2 tbsp. l. parsley, 0.5 cup sour cream, 0.5 tsp. ground black pepper.
Peel the mushrooms, rinse, cut into strips, put in a preheated dry frying pan, cover with a lid and fry over medium heat until the juice released by the mushrooms boils away almost completely; then salt, add finely chopped onion, add oil, mix and continue to fry over moderate heat until a brownish color is formed, about 20 minutes. After that, pepper, sprinkle with finely chopped dill and parsley, mix, fry for 2-3 minutes, add sour cream and bring it to a boil.
In the mushroom season, it is important to know how to cook mushrooms for future use.
Oatmeal porridge: recipe
Ingredients:
2 cups of Hercules oatmeal, 0.75 liters of water, 0.5 liters of milk, 2 tsp. salt, 3 tbsp. l. butter.
Pour the grits with water and cook over low heat until the water boils and thickens completely, then add hot milk in two steps and, continuing to stir, cook until thickened, season with salt. Season the finished porridge with oil.
Cabbage Pie: Recipe
Yeast puff pastry
Ingredients:
600 g flour, 1.25-1.5 cups milk (1.25 for a sweet pie), 125 g butter, 25-30 g yeast, 1-2 yolks (2 yolks for a sweet pie), 1.5 tsp. l. salt.
In the case of using this dough for sweet pies, add to it: 1 tbsp. l. sugar 1 tsp lemon zest, star anise, cinnamon or cardamom (depending on the filling: to nut, poppy - cardamom, to apple - cinnamon, to cherry - star anise, to currant, strawberry - zest).
Knead flour, milk, yeast, yolks, salt and 25 g of butter into a dough, knead thoroughly and let rise at cool room temperature. Knead the risen dough, roll it into a layer about 1 cm thick, grease with a thin layer of butter, fold it in four, then put it for 10 minutes. to the cold. Then roll out again and brush with oil, folding the layers and repeating this operation three times, then let the dough rise in a cold place. After that, without dying, cut the dough for the pie.
Cabbage stuffing
You can prepare the filling from both fresh and stewed cabbage.
Chop fresh cabbage, salt, let stand for about 1 hour, squeeze the juice slightly, add butter and finely chopped hard-boiled eggs and immediately use for the filling.
Chop fresh cabbage, put in a saucepan under the lid, simmer over low heat until it becomes soft, then add sunflower oil, increase the heat, fry the cabbage lightly so that it remains light, add onion, parsley and black ground pepper, mix with hard-boiled chopped eggs.
Buckwheat-wheat pancakes: recipe
Homemade cracker kvass: recipe
Ingredients:
1 kg of rye crackers (best of all different ones - from Orlovsky, rye and Borodino bread, but not peeled), 750 g of sugar, 10-15 blackcurrant leaves, 50 g of raisins, 2-3 tbsp. l. liquid brewer's yeast or 25 g baker's yeast, 2 tbsp. l. dry mint (not peppermint).
Pour crackers dried in the oven to a light crust with 1 bucket of boiling water and leave for 12 hours. Separately brew mint, separately currant leaf with a liter of boiling water and leave for 5 hours. , sugar, boiled in 0.5 l of water, and yeast, stir and leave to ferment for 4 hours. Then remove the foam, strain, pour into bottles, adding a few raisins to each, and leave for 2 days for aging in the cold.
Based on homemade kvass, you can cook the main summer soup. We recommend a quick okroshka recipe.
Honey gingerbread (homemade)
Ingredients:
400 g wheat flour, 100 g rye flour, 2 yolks, 0.75-1 glass of milk or curdled milk, 125 g sour cream, 500 g honey, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of burnt sugar, 1 tsp. cinnamon, 2 cardamom capsules, 4 cloves, 0.5 tsp. star anise, 1 tsp lemon zest, 0.5 tsp soda.
Boil honey in a saucepan over low heat until red, removing the foam, then brew some of it with rye flour and stir with the rest of the honey, cool to a slightly warm state and beat until white.
Wipe the zhzhenka with yolks, add milk and knead wheat flour on the egg-milk mixture, after mixing it and mixing it with spices ground into powder.
Combine the honey-rye mixture with sour cream and the above mixture, whisking thoroughly. Place the finished dough in a greased form (or baking sheet) with a layer of 1-2 cm and bake over low heat. Cut the finished gingerbread plate into 4x6 cm rectangles.
These gingerbread cookies are not glazed.
Preparing burnt sugar. Make a thick sugar syrup and heat it over moderate heat in a small thick-walled metal bowl, stirring all the time, until it turns yellow, then reduce the heat slightly and continue stirring until it becomes beige or light brown. At the same time, sugar should not burn, the smell should be specifically caramel, and not burnt. This is achieved by careful, continuous stirring and regulation of the fire. The resulting light brown candy is used to tint and give a "caramel" flavor to products.
William Pokhlebkin. Recipes of our life
In March 2000, under mysterious circumstances, the famous scientist William Pokhlebkin was killed at the door of his apartment.
Newspapers were full of scandalous headlines, but Pokhlebkin's life was no less mysterious than his tragic death.
At thirty-seven, William Vasilievich became a famous historian of the twentieth century. However, he was recognized only abroad. He spoke seven languages, but turned out to be "not allowed to travel abroad." At forty, Pokhlebkin was left without a penny of money and was doomed to starvation. At forty-five, a treasure fell on his head. At sixty, the whole world spoke of him as a brilliant cook, and at seventy-six, his mutilated body was found in his own apartment.
Why was a historian, culinary specialist, journalist, who devoted his whole life to his native country, not loved by the authorities?
And who could be behind his death?
The mystery of the death of the culinary specialist Pokhlebkin
Some thought he was crazy. Others have argued that he is a closet dissident who has deliberately lived his life outside the state, outside the system. Still others said that he traded his unique research talent for some nonsense - writing recipes, food books and gastronomic advice for housewives.
Those who thought so were wrong. The culinary talent and mind of William Pokhlebkin were in demand. His works have become a kind of school of tasty and healthy national food in the USSR. His recipes made it possible for thousands of ordinary Soviet people to try their hand at the art of cooking and feel the joy of creativity in their own kitchen.
Director: Vera Kilchevskaya
Screenwriter: Alexander Krastoshevsky
William Vasilievich Pokhlebkin
Was born: August 20, 1923, Moscow
Died: March 2000, Podolsk, Moscow region
- Shakotis
Biography
Pokhlebkin William Vasilievich(August 20, 1923 - end of March 2000) - Soviet, Russian scientist, historian, geographer, journalist and writer. Author of famous cookery books. Connoisseur of the history of diplomacy and international relations, heraldry and ethnography.
V. V. Pokhlebkin is widely known, in particular, thanks to cookbooks that are fascinating and contain a lot of historical and interesting little-known information.
His cookery books Secrets of Good Cuisine and National Cuisines of Our Nations contain not strict recipes, but methods of preparing various dishes, including long-forgotten ones. To some extent, these books are also historical, as they contain information about the history of various dishes and cooking in general. Among professionals, he is known as the first theoretical chef in history, who gave the world cuisine a universal classification based on technology.
The book about tea - "Tea: Its types, properties, use" - is revered by many lovers of this drink.
The book "History of Vodka" was translated into English and known throughout the world (en: A History of Vodka).
William Pokhlebkin: top recipes of Russian cuisine
William Pokhlebkin became famous not only as a scientist and specialist in international relations, but also as a culinary researcher. William Pokhlebkin became the most famous gastronomic historian in Russia. He wrote more than one cookbook; according to his recipes of Russian cuisine, people still learn how to cook. woman's day collected the most famous dishes of William Pokhlebkin.
Shchi rich (full): recipe
Ingredients:
750 g of beef, 500-750 g or 1 half-liter can of sauerkraut, 4-5 dry porcini mushrooms, 0.5 cups of salted mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 large potato, 1 turnip, 2 onions, 1 celery root and greens, 1 root and parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. l. butter or ghee, 1 tbsp. l. cream, 100 g sour cream, 8 black peppercorns, 1 tsp. marjoram or dry angelica (dawn).
Put the beef together with the onion and half of the roots (carrots, parsley, celery) in cold water and boil for 2 hours. After 1-1.5 hours after the start of cooking, salt, then strain the broth, discard the roots.
Put sauerkraut in a clay pot, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water, add butter, close, put in a moderately heated oven. When the cabbage begins to soften, remove it and combine with strained broth and beef.
Mushrooms and a potato cut into four parts put in an enameled saucepan, pour 2 cups of cold water and put on fire. When the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips and lower into the mushroom broth to cook. After the mushrooms and potatoes are ready, combine with the meat broth.
To the combined broths and cabbage, add finely chopped onion, all other roots, cut into strips, and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill and garlic and let it brew for about 15 minutes, wrapped in something warm. Before serving, season with coarsely chopped salted mushrooms and sour cream directly in the plates.
Studen: recipe
Ingredients:
1 head (veal or pork), 4 legs (veal or pork), 1 carrot, 1 parsley (root), 5 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 10 black peppercorns, 5 bay leaves, 1-2 onions, 1 garlic head , for 1 kg of meat - 1 liter of water.
Singe the legs and head, clean, cut into equal pieces, pour water and cook for 6 to 8 hours on very low heat, without boiling, so that the volume of water is reduced by half. 1-1.5 hours before the end of cooking, add onions, carrots, parsley, 20 minutes before cooking. - pepper, bay leaf; salt a little. Then take out the meat, separate from the bones, cut into small pieces, transfer to a separate bowl, mix with finely chopped garlic and a small amount of ground black pepper. Boil the broth with the remaining bones for another half an hour or an hour (so that its volume does not exceed 1 liter), add salt, strain and pour over the boiled prepared meat. Freeze for 3-4 hours.
Gelatin is not used, since young meat (veal, pig, pork) contains a sufficient amount of sticky substances.
Serve the jelly with horseradish, mustard, crushed garlic and sour cream.
Roast: recipe
Ingredients:
2-2.5 kg of well-fed beef (thick edge), 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 parsley or celery, 6-8 black pepper grains, 3-4 bay leaves, 2 tsp. ginger, 0.5 cups of sour cream, 1 tsp. salt, 1-1.5 cups of kvass.
Wash the beef, remove films, bones, cut off the fat from it, cut it into small pieces, put it on a preheated frying pan or baking sheet, melt, calcine, fry the whole piece of beef in it so that it becomes covered with a crust, sprinkling with finely chopped carrots, onions, parsley and crushed spices, then place in the oven, water every 10 minutes. little by little kvass, turning all the time. Fry for about 1-1.5 hours. For 5-7 minutes. until the end of frying, collect all the juice in a cup, add 0.25 cups of cold boiled water to it, refrigerate. When the juice has cooled, remove the layer of fat from the surface, heat the juice, strain, add sour cream. Serve as a dipping sauce. Remove the cooked beef from the oven, salt, let it cool slightly (15 minutes), then cut across the fibers into pieces, pour over hot meat juice and serve.
Roasts are not served cold or reheated. Garnish can be fried potatoes, boiled or stewed carrots, turnips, rutabaga, fried or stewed mushrooms.
Pike in sour cream: recipe
Ingredients:
1-1.5 kg of pike, 1-2 tbsp. l. sunflower oil, 300-450 g sour cream, 1-2 tsp. ground black pepper, 1 lemon (juice and zest), 1 pinch of nutmeg.
Fish with a specific odor (for example, pike, some types of sea fish) require special processing and preparation methods.
Peel the pike, rub it with pepper inside and out, pour over with oil and put it entirely in a deep frying pan on a ceramic stand (you can use a saucer) and open it in the oven for 7-10 minutes to make the fish brown. Then transfer to a tighter bowl, pour sour cream, half covering the pike with it, close the lid and put in the oven on low heat for 45-60 minutes. Put the finished fish on a dish, pour over lemon juice, and heat the resulting gravy on the stove until thickened, salt, season with grated nutmeg and zest and serve separately to the fish in a gravy boat or pour over the fish with it.
Fried mushrooms: recipe
Ingredients:
4 cups of peeled mushrooms (different), 100-150 g of sunflower oil, 2 onions, 1 tbsp. l. dill, 2 tbsp. l. parsley, 0.5 cup sour cream, 0.5 tsp. ground black pepper.
Peel the mushrooms, rinse, cut into strips, put in a preheated dry frying pan, cover with a lid and fry over medium heat until the juice released by the mushrooms boils away almost completely; then salt, add finely chopped onion, add oil, mix and continue to fry over moderate heat until a brownish color is formed, about 20 minutes. After that, pepper, sprinkle with finely chopped dill and parsley, mix, fry for 2-3 minutes, add sour cream and bring it to a boil.
In the mushroom season, it is important to know how to cook mushrooms for future use.
Oatmeal porridge: recipe
Ingredients:
2 cups of Hercules oatmeal, 0.75 liters of water, 0.5 liters of milk, 2 tsp. salt, 3 tbsp. l. butter.
Pour the grits with water and cook over low heat until the water boils and thickens completely, then add hot milk in two steps and, continuing to stir, cook until thickened, season with salt. Season the finished porridge with oil.
Cabbage Pie: Recipe
Yeast puff pastry
Ingredients:
600 g flour, 1.25-1.5 cups milk (1.25 for a sweet pie), 125 g butter, 25-30 g yeast, 1-2 yolks (2 yolks for a sweet pie), 1.5 tsp. l. salt.
In the case of using this dough for sweet pies, add to it: 1 tbsp. l. sugar 1 tsp lemon zest, star anise, cinnamon or cardamom (depending on the filling: to nut, poppy - cardamom, to apple - cinnamon, to cherry - star anise, to currant, strawberry - zest).
Knead flour, milk, yeast, yolks, salt and 25 g of butter into a dough, knead thoroughly and let rise at cool room temperature. Knead the risen dough, roll it into a layer about 1 cm thick, grease with a thin layer of butter, fold it in four, then put it for 10 minutes. to the cold. Then roll out again and brush with oil, folding the layers and repeating this operation three times, then let the dough rise in a cold place. After that, without dying, cut the dough for the pie.
Cabbage stuffing
You can prepare the filling from both fresh and stewed cabbage.
Chop fresh cabbage, salt, let stand for about 1 hour, squeeze the juice slightly, add butter and finely chopped hard-boiled eggs and immediately use for the filling.
Chop fresh cabbage, put in a saucepan under the lid, simmer over low heat until it becomes soft, then add sunflower oil, increase the heat, fry the cabbage lightly so that it remains light, add onion, parsley and black ground pepper, mix with hard-boiled chopped eggs.
Buckwheat-wheat pancakes: recipe
Homemade cracker kvass: recipe
Ingredients:
1 kg of rye crackers (best of all different ones - from Orlovsky, rye and Borodino bread, but not peeled), 750 g of sugar, 10-15 blackcurrant leaves, 50 g of raisins, 2-3 tbsp. l. liquid brewer's yeast or 25 g baker's yeast, 2 tbsp. l. dry mint (not peppermint).
Pour crackers dried in the oven to a light crust with 1 bucket of boiling water and leave for 12 hours. Separately brew mint, separately currant leaf with a liter of boiling water and leave for 5 hours. , sugar, boiled in 0.5 l of water, and yeast, stir and leave to ferment for 4 hours. Then remove the foam, strain, pour into bottles, adding a few raisins to each, and leave for 2 days for aging in the cold.
Based on homemade kvass, you can cook the main summer soup. We recommend a quick okroshka recipe.
Honey gingerbread (homemade)
Ingredients:
400 g wheat flour, 100 g rye flour, 2 yolks, 0.75-1 glass of milk or curdled milk, 125 g sour cream, 500 g honey, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of burnt sugar, 1 tsp. cinnamon, 2 cardamom capsules, 4 cloves, 0.5 tsp. star anise, 1 tsp lemon zest, 0.5 tsp soda.
Boil honey in a saucepan over low heat until red, removing the foam, then brew some of it with rye flour and stir with the rest of the honey, cool to a slightly warm state and beat until white.
Wipe the zhzhenka with yolks, add milk and knead wheat flour on the egg-milk mixture, after mixing it and mixing it with spices ground into powder.
Combine the honey-rye mixture with sour cream and the above mixture, whisking thoroughly. Place the finished dough in a greased form (or baking sheet) with a layer of 1-2 cm and bake over low heat. Cut the finished gingerbread plate into 4x6 cm rectangles.
These gingerbread cookies are not glazed.
Preparing burnt sugar. Make a thick sugar syrup and heat it over moderate heat in a small thick-walled metal bowl, stirring all the time, until it turns yellow, then reduce the heat slightly and continue stirring until it becomes beige or light brown. At the same time, sugar should not burn, the smell should be specifically caramel, and not burnt. This is achieved by careful, continuous stirring and regulation of the fire. The resulting light brown candy is used to tint and give a "caramel" flavor to products.
