The epic (you can't call it otherwise) on the assembly of the Bismarck battleship model began in the spring of 2009 with the purchase of the first issue of the magazine. Succumbing to aggressive advertising, we unwittingly became participants in a process that took us 5 years. Now we can draw some conclusions...

Foreword

When I was 7 years old, we lived in a rented apartment, where among the master's books there were several well-published albums of warships of the world. I just fell in love with these albums and could spend hours looking at images of warships from different countries, studying their silhouettes, performance characteristics, the number of guns, torpedo tubes, etc. In my imagination, there were grandiose naval battles. Cruisers and battleships, destroyers and torpedo boats, drowned each other in the age-old children's war - "their own" against the "enemies". Then there were other books, and again, in my thoughts, I fought with the superior forces of the Japanese squadron on board the Varyag cruiser near the port of Chemulpo, fired at German
positions in the Crimea from the guns of the main caliber of the battleship "Paris Commune" (later "Sevastopol"). And he froze together with the sailors of the Shch-303 submarine, listening to how depth charges rolled along the decks of German destroyers ...
Many years have passed since then, but warships still excite the secret strings of my soul, attracting me with their severe beauty and a special spirit of stamina and courage. After all, a warship is a whole world where people and machines are "soldered" with one goal - to survive and win.

A small lyrical digression

In the summer of 2013, we visited Sevastopol to celebrate the day of the Russian Navy, where we saw most of the ships of our Black Sea squadron based in Sevastopol.

Large landing ship "Konstantin Olshansky".





Frigate "Constituicao" of the Brazilian Navy (was in Sevastopol on a friendly visit)

In general, the very atmosphere of this holiday in the city is indescribable. A huge number of people come here on this day from other cities and countries to watch the parade of ships and attend events dedicated to this holiday.
We, too, were among them and got great pleasure, a bunch of new experiences and a desire to come here again (now to the Russian Crimea).

Continuation

And so, in the spring of 2009, when I saw an advertisement for Bismarck on TV, I could no longer resist. True, they say that in the soul of every man lives a little boy with an unbridled craving for new toys. Now, after 5 years, I would say - “Oh, fuck him, such toys!” But at that moment, desire overpowered common sense, and I started assembling ...

Assembly process

The process of assembling the ship model itself is not particularly difficult and is well described in the attached instructions. There are some inaccuracies in them, but a person with "straight" hands and an inquisitive brain will easily overcome these obstacles. Some points of the assembly are shown in the photos below.

Color selection and painting

This is the most crucial moment of the entire assembly process, since even a well-assembled model can be easily spoiled by careless painting. I will say right away - to paint such a model with a lot of small details with a brush - it will not work, no matter how skillful an artist or painter you have. For normal painting need an airbrush or at worst - a set of paint cans with matching colors.
I thought for a long time what to paint with, but after reading the advice of experienced modellers on the forums, I decided to buy an inexpensive airbrush and never regretted it. In addition, I had to assemble a spray booth from wooden slats and a cardboard box. Having equipped the camera with light and an exhaust, I felt like a real modeller.

I am not a supporter of simple copying of color, because I know that the perception of color by the eye on planes of different scales is very individual. Therefore, I used lighter colors than indicated in the assembly instructions. Camouflage stripes - applied on the basis of available photographs of the ship.

Kmk there are some differences with the attached painting scheme. But it's all the little things that make the model more individual.

Since I went through the process of assembling the ship to the end, let me express a few thoughts or advice for those people who want to assemble another advertised partwork - a ship, a tank or a car.

If you want to collect some kind of partwork, then the first advice is wait for all the numbers to come out and buy them all at once. As practice shows, it comes out cheaper and with fewer problems. And more often than not, our partworks are released after being published abroad, so in most cases you can buy sets on Ebay at a very reasonable price and cheaper than in Russia.
In my case, buying each number turned into a little stress. I remember how we ran around the city, from kiosk to kiosk, to buy another issue of Bismarck. And when it was not in the kiosks of our city, I looked for rooms in Moscow.
It is better to wait for the release of the entire series and then buy all the numbers together. This will not only significantly reduce assembly time (no need to stretch the process for several years), but also increase overall labor efficiency. This is due to the fact that the assembly work is unevenly distributed among the journal numbers.
And yet, if all the numbers are available, you can carry out a block assembly - you assembled a superstructure or deck, painted it and put it away in a safe place. So nothing will be lost, and the work will be more structured and understandable.

Even if you bought all the numbers, there is a very high probability that you will not assemble the model to the end, since two more resources are needed - time and money. First about time: soberly evaluate the resource of free time, which you can devote to the assembly process (unless, of course, you are a professional modeller :-)).
At the slightest doubt that you are ready to devote 2-3 hours to assembling each issue, and sometimes more - do not even buy sets, they will remain on your shelf until they are lost or thrown into the trash. Also, time is needed to remake what has already been done, search for materials, paint and other trifles, etc.
So that you can estimate the approximate labor costs for assembling the ship, I will say this: after my hull was assembled, it took me another six months of work - on weekdays, in the evening, after the main work for 2-3 hours and all weekends (from morning to evening) .
The second required resource is financial resources. Buying magazines is just the beginning ... Square meters of sandpaper, dozens of tubes of various glues and "anti-glue," and other "little things", paint, putty, primer, varnish from proven companies also cost decent money. I also had to purchase an airbrush and a compressor.

At first find a place to work, estimating the length of the model and the time of its assembly. Otherwise, at one fine moment, the model can turn into an expensive pile of chips. Such cases are described on the forums of modelers ...

Information for those who need magazine numbers

You may be helped to buy a specific issue of the magazine or the entire collection at this address: [email protected](Lilia Pershina).

My thanks

In conclusion, I want to sincerely thank my wife and children for their understanding and support in this long-term project. The purchase of issues of the magazine for 2.5 years fell almost entirely on Olya. And assembling such a ship, and even in a small apartment, is not an easy test, especially when you consider moving to a new apartment and the overall duration of the process.
In general, the whole family tried to help in any way they could, for which many thanks to them! Even Masha offered her help in painting the ship :-).

Hello dear public. To be honest, there was an idea to write almost a novel about this, because the ship was made for 8 years and 9 months with short breaks for repairs, moving, vacations and Krusenstern, about which it was already agreed. And during this time I managed to drop out and recover at the university, finish it, work, move, get married, and even have a son. Well, yes, who needs it, they didn’t gather for that, here, according to the model itself, you can not measure it, I’ll try to remember everything that was passed (the prototype is known to everyone, I think we’ll omit this question).

I must say that this set, which came out from 01.2009 to 10.2011 and included 140 weekly issues, can be safely considered the most difficult both in terms of assembly and in terms of the number of parts (I tried to calculate, but taking into account the improvements it is unrealistic), this is even if you do it “out of the box” ”, and even comparing with Hood and Roma from the same Hachette. Nevertheless, after the release of Trump's Bismarck, I believe that the partwork lost to him in terms of copies, with regards to the proportionality of some elements and their location, the openwork of etching (rarely which plate was less than 0.5 mm), especially since with regards to the aftermarket to Trumpeter, I would gave a score on a 10-point scale of 9.5 versus 9.8 (Trumpeter). In spite of everything, it was not really cool and interesting to collect, of course it is difficult to focus on one thing for so many years, but I think it was worth it. The magazine itself in the first issue consisted of the following sections: 1 - "Step by step" assembly instructions, 2 - Tips for the modeller, 3 - "Bismarck" History and legend (a really useful section containing, if not all, then 90 percent of the known photos of the ship) , 4 - Famous warships. But after the first issue, the domestic division of Ashet was blown away and decided to release only the sections “Step by Step” and “Bismarck”, in the last issues the instruction was increased by a couple of sheets due to the many operations at the end. In addition to magazine photos, some materials from the book “Battleships Bismarck and Tirpitz” by A.A. Malov and S.V. Patyanina, well, he did not disdain the Internet.

Start. Frame

It all started when I didn’t have the Internet yet, and I didn’t know what a partwork was and that it could consist of the nth number of rooms, but when everything opened up, I couldn’t even think that this could happen. After all, we didn’t have magazine models yet.
So, the set of the hull itself came out in total 31 numbers, not in a row, alternating with numbers with add-ons and other things. There was one number with a stand, I sawed it in width so that it would be at least and painted it dark brown with rust smudges, but it was like that, fuck off, for testing. In general, all elements of the set came out in the form of sheets of 4 mm plywood with laser-cut parts in them. I give a diagram of the device of the case and the number of parts below.
The first issue had: the central element of the bottom, 2 frames, 2 reinforcing elements for stringers and two beams, only two sheets of plywood, later one sheet came out. And immediately my first mistake! Which I understood already when the ship was formed - I started assembling from the first number, but in a good way a ship of this size, and even a smaller one, must be assembled on a slipway, but first on a dry one, with the identification of jambs, where to sharpen and file. In this regard, the hull did not give a big “screw”, because of the add-ons it may not be visible, but it is noticeable in the height of the side on the right and left, for someone the hull gave a downward bend, everything was, in the end only the slipway will save from this. I will say right away that the publisher offered to make this model on radio control, with an offer to buy equipment for 10,000 rubles, so in the aft part of the “skeleton” there is an asymmetric part No. 47, on which some kind of device could be installed, i.e. for the "stand" you can not install, and it was also proposed to glue the inner surface with gauze for strength (honestly, nonsense, the case turned out to be very hard anyway, I tried to bend it, it's useless). All this was glued by "Moment" - "Joiner".
In addition to the wood, there were 4 resin elements: the bow and stern parts, the part with the middle propeller fairing and the part with anchor fairleads. All this was fastened with the usual "Moment".
Sheathing was a slats, coming out in two stages. The first is thicker slats 1.5 mm thick covering the hull from the upper armor belt to the bottom elements, the second is 1 mm thick slats and covering the entire hull from the edge of the deck, this layer compared the surface flush with the resin elements. In addition to the rails, there were parts laser-cut from 1.5 mm plywood - 2 parts with portholes on the bow and 2 on the stern + 4 parts that were a bevel to the upper chord, 2 parts with technical holes, kingstones and other things, and 2 bilge keels (they from 4 mm, ground down to a triangular section), all this was attached to the first layer of skin.
You can also say that some design decisions in the model are not clear to me, it could have been made easier (I don’t remember everything), for example, the same bow element with portholes had to go on a resin element with cleats and then nullify it, well, nonsense, I managed to cut everything flush without excessive stripping. The stern element was attached to the last frame, a fragment of 4 mm plywood was attached to it, and then the upper deck - why this intermediate element ?? Unclear. And there are many such examples.
The deck consisted of plywood fragments and slats also 4 mm thick, and all this was glued to frames or beams (this is for a radio model, for access to the compartment). And here is my second mistake, according to the instructions, the removable fragment was fastened with self-tapping screws, but for the stand it was better to glue it tightly, as a result of which, at the later stages of the model, after filling and painting, small cracks appeared, but they were already without caps. repair is not repaired, but now I will know. The deck flooring of the main deck and superstructures (where it was on the original) consisted of sheets of veneer of the desired shape, 0.5 mm thick, and pasted on thin parchment, also glued to the Joiner. Due to the possibility of radio control, the flooring was made in segments, with joint lines bluntly across the hull, and in the most prominent places, this jamb could not be removed.
The first stage of dusty work on the hull took place in the first year of 2009, with a rougher finish, the second, as most of the numbers came out in 2011, with concrete cleaning, repeated grinding, puttying, installation of shaft fairings with brackets, bow bale strip, etched elements, brackets, ladders and shots, and the bow anchor and stop anchor at the stern also immediately installed, before painting. The windows of the lower rows were made according to the template given in the magazine, it was combined with the upper ones, and the lower ones were drilled out, because. their location is not symmetrical along the sides, then the extra ones were putty, these portholes were inserted into these holes in the form of a cylinder with bent edges, the part was recessed inward, and the edges served as the outline of the porthole. I’ll also say that wooden models are interesting, but making a steel ship out of wood is still a headache (compare Trump’s hull consisting of one part, not counting the small ones, and this one with hundreds of parts that need to be brought under a smooth steel surface), because that wooden slats constantly made themselves felt and appeared after work, it was not possible to hide them 100%, from some angles it can be seen. At this stage, it became clear that this model needed to be tightened up with minor improvements, which turned the story into a long-term construction, and even in parallel with the Kruzenshtern. The set also provided elementary tools for bending etching, and templates for marking seats.
From personal upgrades:
. The resin nose element was subjected to hard “turning”, because it had an excessive width at the point of narrowing at the overhead line, and an incomprehensible slab at the anchor in the side view. All this was removed long and hard with a file and a needle file.
. As for the anchors, the set contains two anchors under 11 tons, and two 9 tons, supposedly large on the sides in the fairleads, and small on the stern and bow, but you need 3 + 1, the bows are all the same, I had to buy another number with anchors for this .
. In addition to the ground off, there was something to add, the bulb on the side was rounded, but it was necessary that there be a right angle, this was decided by adding an attachment from a two-component Tamiya putty and further processing.
. On the same bulb added a hatch for firing anti-mine paravanes.
. An imitation of sonar holes was added in the bow underwater part, according to the template made, and a hole was drilled in the stem, I don’t know exactly why.
. The missing portholes were added in the aft part, in the amount of two pieces, they fell on the resin element and the manufacturer scored on them.
. Under the aft bale bar, which is under the flagpole, a thickening of 0.5 mm wire was added.
. The most important alteration is at the stern, the anchor hawse was given lower and further aft. I had to putty everything and cut a new one in the right place, partially already falling on the wooden elements.
. The bracket and shaft fairing were also turned and anti-corrosion plates were added to the bracket.
. The propeller protection shot was equipped with a thickening at the end, and loops were simulated on all its tackles using 0.12 mm wire.
. Added a small loop for removing the screws, from the etching included in the kit.
. Drilled technical holes for draining water in the area of ​​the overhead line along the perimeter.
. In each of the four large water intake holes near the bilge keels, more plastic elements were added to simulate the protruding skin.
Unfortunately, then additional information surfaced and it was possible to finish the tubes of various devices protruding from the bottom, as well as the dock keels that I did not immediately see, but it was too late to change something.
The improvements carried out on the deck were made for the most part after the installation of add-ons, but I’ll talk about them now:
. The guisstock went etched along with the bridges to the bow bale bar, cut them off, made them from 0.5 mm wire. The guisstock itself was not particularly altered, only the standard nose light from etching (looked huge) was replaced with a smaller piece of metal from the set, and a thread was added on the top with the help of super-gel, as well as a halyard made of HOBBY+PLUS elastic thread. In general, in one plate there were wall lights that were attached throughout the ship to the walls, some were not useful, and with them I finalized the missing elements.
. At the bow anchor, the spindle was etched, but as a result of replacing it with a large-scale one, its plastic one completely entered the hawse and stuck out of the deck to the desired length.
. Onboard hawse were thoroughly worked out. “Pillows” were made for the anchors and on the etched plate, imitating deck protection near the hawse, the sides were completed, they were completely absent, the ring against which the anchor rests was made of 2-component Tamiya putty, and turned and fitted. Also around the hawse, along the border of the handrails, a side made of a strip of parchment and impregnated with super glue was added.
. Also on all three anchors added rings at the base.
. The hatch at the starboard anchor was raised to the desired height.
. The stock chains were replaced with a more appropriate scale (don't be surprised where I got it, it's an old silver chain, torn and blackened, but perfectly sized, I found a use for it). And added brackets for attaching chains to the anchor.
. Turnbuckles were added to the retaining chains and the chains were slightly flattened and wider.
. Handrails along the board were made at the end of construction, they also had to sweat. I was given 300 etched copper, as I understand it, posts with three holes for the thread + 72 with a support, I made according to the photo and drawings, and not according to the instructions (a template was given for marking places), I marked it manually, with a ruler, as a result, the racks on the ship about 310, with an interval of 8.33-8.5 mm, i.e. it turns out there were 60 pieces left. And on the ship there are racks with a prop approximately in half with single + a percentage with two props (for example, where there are breaks for the ladders, the chain was removed on the original), that’s how things were, I had to finish the props from a drawn sprue. Installation took 1.5 months, the racks are installed at the very edge of the side, and in order to avoid slipping of the drill, I drilled at an angle, inward, respectively, all the bases of the posts had to be bent. The rail itself was given in the form of a fishing line, but I replaced it with 0.12 mm wire.
. Over all the ladders leading under the main deck, plastic and paper canopies were built, imitating an awning.
. I didn’t install racks for side shots, the etching for them is too rough, and most of the time they were not installed on the ship.
. The ventilation pipes at the flagpole were given etched, replaced with bars of the required thickness. In the same place, shots in the form of a triangular frame were made nearby.
. The flagstaff itself was supplemented with the missing little things and a cloak with a halyard.
The rest of the little things on deck will be in the next section, perhaps I missed every little thing, but I tried to make all the main nuances. I regret that I did not make davits with keel blocks between the 1st and 2nd towers of the SC, the manufacturer completely omitted this issue, but decided to leave it as it is.

Part two. Add-ons.

For the most part, the insides of the superstructures are also made of plywood. The following are made of plastic: tower superstructure, bow and main artillery fire control posts with rangefinders, rounded walls around the SK towers (in the form of inserts into the superstructure), the entire pipe, the side parts of the main hangar, the navigation bridge platform, the aft anti-aircraft fire control platform, and also on trifles, ventilation ducts, all kinds of boxes, ventilation pipes, cable ducts, appliances, etc. From weapons, plastic installations of large, medium and small anti-aircraft artillery. And all this is mixed with etching. I will add that, unlike European releases, in ours, some nodes were replaced from plywood to MDF, these are the towers of the Civil Code, all barbettes, side hangars, apparently the publisher / manufacturer had problems.
The bow superstructure here is the second largest element after the hull, the entire assembly from tower B to the catapult and to the navigation bridge is quite large in height, and it was inconvenient to work with it, the second part of the superstructure is installed on it - the navigation bridge, here I showed a repetition of the first mistake - the superstructures after assembly led, and during the installation a screw was revealed both relative to the deck and relative to each other, it was necessary to glue it all somewhere, and somewhere to mount it with screws in problematic corners, and only then everything pressed into place, the screws were closed by the deck flooring. And already a tower superstructure was installed on all this.
The aft superstructure is simpler and smaller, here the nodes are smaller, the first tier is the third largest part in one deck, then the second part, together with the hangar, is two decks in size.
After that, a pipe with body kits, a bridge between the pipe and the superstructure, and masts were already installed. It also took a lot of time to install all the deck details after the superstructures, weapons, aircraft, rigging, I already said about the handrail.
Another “trick” of the manufacturer is nameless parts on etching, or rather, parts that were not used according to the instructions, and you yourself had to catch up with where everything was going, in particular, the fencing of the “firling” platform with a spotlight, the doors to the boxes in the same place, the plates covering the gaps between the aft superstructure and barbette "C", rangefinder beams on 37-mm installations, imitation of riveted cable casing under the bridge leading to the pipe, ladders under the davits on the aft hangar, some details were never needed (small hatches, side lights, etc.).
On completions of add-ons, I will try to be shorter:
. The glazing of the admiral's bridge on the tower superstructure was made, missing portholes were drilled a tier above, a signal typhon was made under the right side of the "firling" platform.
. On the pipe: the lattice structure of the visor made of plastic and brass rods is shown, and an additional branch pipe is made; all tubes are drilled around the perimeter of the visor; cable channels and all kinds of valves are simulated on the pipe itself; handrails in the area of ​​20-mm installations are bent outward as expected; the most important refinement - cut out the caps of the spotlights and made them openable, with the whole body kit; cables are imitated on the crane beams and the engine with a winch is separated, so that they look more independent, tripod stops for cranes are made.
. The bridge at the funnel, aft control stations for the ZA, the sponsons of the heavy ZA guns, are supplemented with plastic load-bearing elements.
. Body kits, adjustment valves have been added to all spotlights, as well as reflectors made of foil inside the spotlights.
. All the walls of the superstructures are supplemented with a multitude of plastic and metal details, such as lights, signaling bells, all kinds of boxes, cable channels, in some places the portholes have been moved, and loopholes for feeding heavy missiles have been drilled.
. On the bow superstructure, passages were made to the superstructure on the second tier at the bow heavy anti-aircraft guns, with a door and some body kit. This is in the plastic part of the niches of the SK guns, a completely missing part for some reason.
. On the masts, all the yokes were ground down to a reasonable thickness, ladder brackets were added in the right places and missing cables.
. The rigging was done according to the drawings and photos, according to the magazine half is missing, and it was proposed to do everything from threads. The threads have been replaced with HOBBY+PLUS thread divided by the minimum thickness and dyed black and dark grey. The insulators on the antennas are made with Super Gel.
. The frame on double-filament antennas was offered etched and looked very thick, I replaced it with just a spacer between the threads.
. There was no flag in the set, it was made from scratch from parchment.
. On the saling of the mainmast, retaining guy wires for the yard are made from etched residues.
. I made all the rangefinders of the three posts rotating, well, it's like a bonus.
. Onboard hangars cut passages to the desired length.
. I decided not to make signal platforms at the admiral's bridge, they were installed in the last days before the campaign.
. Supports were made of 0.5 mm wire for the “firling” platforms and the aft part of the admiral's bridge.
. On the barbettes of the GK and SK towers, missing little things, ventilation pipes, have been added. On the turret barbette C, the leftmost ventilation pipe was expanded to the required dimensions and a grate was added from stocks, the rightmost pipe of barbette B was lowered to the average level.
. All rope spools throughout the model were replaced with other imitation spools in canvas, made from a round pencil ground to the desired diameter, the sides were closed with plastic rounds.
. On the deck of the navigation bridge, the bulwark in the aft part was raised to the desired level, and the doors were made open, and power elements were added to the right and left bulwarks. The legs of the bridge and handrail to the end of the superstructure were covered with imitation tarpaulin. Also on the bridge, a trifle, boxes and ship control equipment and voice pipes have been added.
. Small items on the inner surface of the bulwark were added on the deck of the upper tower.
. All rafts were covered with parchment tarpaulin, oars were made on the rafts at the stern tower.
. All boats have oars and slots for them in the sides. Small things on the roof and missing handrails have been added to the boats.
. Paravanes have added struts for the tail stabilizers, and the struts on the wings have been narrowed.
. Rangefinders ZA, simulators for cutting SA and ZA guns, have been supplemented with little things.
. Arrow lamps have been added to the main 12-ton cranes.
. Added a large hatch between aft 37mm mounts.
. About aviation is described here
. Some particularly small, but contrasting elements with the main color of the add-ons are shown simply carelessly, with paint.
Basically, that's all, maybe there are a couple of places with little things to be, well, let's omit them.

Part three. Armament.

For the main force of the battleships, I decided - you need to create a hotel chapter, there is also something to tell here. I must say, according to the Civil Code and the UK, the towers were made of plywood, in the case of the Civil Code in our country, there was fiberboard, and all this was sheathed with photo-etched panels (for the Civil Code - 7 etching parts + 20 pieces of wood, SK - 2 etching parts + 11 wooden + body kit parts made of etched and plastic on both views). In no other partwork, and in general, models didn’t do this anymore, HOOD and ROMA from the same Hachette already received plastic casting, except that DeA practices an internal set and a cast tower on top (Tirpitz test in Germany, and freshly released Sevastopol here). But the more difficult it is, the more interesting it is for us to collect.
Improvements:
. Taking advantage of the type-setting structure of the towers, it was decided to make the barrels move, but magazine guns were not suitable for this, because. downtime were inserted into the loopholes tightly, and I didn’t like the execution, the walls at the muzzle are too thin. Therefore, barrels from RB-models were purchased (8 main guns, 12 SKs AND 16 large anti-aircraft guns), but there was a nuance, they were apparently intended for a cardboard model from GPM or something like that, because of which the main guns had to increase the breech from a copper tube from stocks, drill along the axis of the trunnions, and plant it in a tower on a bar, maintaining the center distance. I had more luck with the SK guns, they reached the trunnions in length and were drilled just like that. But for large anti-aircraft guns, the magazine trunks turned out to be larger and more correct, I left them.
. The front wall of the GK towers turned out to be mirrored, the jamb of the manufacturer, I had to turn it over and make viewing loopholes from plastic.
. On all GK towers on the rear wall there are loops for slinging work.
. On towers B and C, the ventilation ducts at the back were shortened by half, they are all the same in the set.
. On turret A, a plate has been added in place of the former rangefinder, for greater bulge.
. The protruding rounded parts of the towers at the barbette were ground off to imitate the "sill".
. On tower A, I decided to try to imitate a cellophane tarpaulin, but settled only on it, it was difficult, and then it made sense to put mobile guns.
. On the second turrets of the SK, those with rangefinders are equipped with brackets for ladders with a ladder at the back.
. On the installations of large anti-aircraft artillery, little things were added on the sides, the missing holes were drilled.
. On installations of medium anti-aircraft artillery, parts of a range finder, electric wires, control valves have been added.
. On 20 mm machine guns, retaining straps were added to the butts for the shooter, and mesh baskets for catching cartridges.
At the end of everything, I ordered a plate for a model of my own design at Microdesign, a little expensive, but I wanted an etched one, with a coat of arms, for painting. Although laser engraving from plastic will be cheaper. In principle, this is all that was done for improvements, but this is only 50-60% of the time ..

Part four. Painting.

In addition to everything, manual painting took a lot of time, I didn’t have to dream of any airbrush. The primer was Tamiya gray from a cylinder on plastic-metal. The main paints were “Zvezda”, still in hexagonal jars, the base color is light gray, it seemed to me the most optimal, and then, having experience on the Titanic, “Zvezda” seemed optimal for a brush. I really liked the light gray in my work, it was a little lacking in the end, I had to buy it in a new jar, but the tone was much darker, I had to breed it with white. Also used white, black, dark grey, red, German red-brown, cherry red, green, woody, some gold

Hello colleagues!

I am an aircraft modeler, but I also love and respect the ship model very much. From a very young age, I wanted to build a working model of a large warship. The path to this goal was long, difficult, but very exciting.

Ship models appear infrequently on the Parkflyer, however, I hope that my project will be of interest to you.

Looking ahead, I’ll say: the model is running, with a smoke generator, lighting and imitation of firing of the main caliber ...

Before starting construction, I had a clear understanding that I could not make all the elements on my own, but I could well purchase a bench model kit and electrify it.
The choice fell on the battleship Bismarck from Amati, which was released in the form of a partwork. In 2012, when I decided to start construction, it was one of two sets of large (1:200) scale battleships available for purchase. In addition, the model had a fairly high level of complexity due to the presence of a wooden typesetting case and a huge number of photo-etched parts.

I found a man in St. Petersburg who agreed to give a complete set of partwork for half of its initial price. However, it lacked 7 magazines, which had to be hiccupped all over the country and, eventually, abroad.
In the process, I had to learn not only how to work with wood and photo-etching, but also laying fiberglass, sanding, sanding, programming, etching boards and much more...

Bismarck and Tirpitz, otherwise they were designated as “H-type battleships” (Schlachtschiff H-klasse), were to become an iron fist, designed to crush the sea communications of countries that were recalcitrant to Germany. I think it makes no sense to give here the historical facts about the prototype, since they, if desired, are easily searched on the net.

3.5 years or ~1000 man-hours were spent on construction and development of elements. The keel of the model was laid on April 12, 2013, and construction was completed on October 22, 2016.

Linkor has the following functionality:
1. Radio control over 8 channels for all systems
2. Proximity switches of onboard circuits
3. Three-stroke electric motors with tear
4. Smoke generator with liquid level control sensor
5. Lighting system for cabins, running lights, searchlights
6. Rotary turrets and barrels of medium-caliber artillery
7. Rotary towers and main caliber artillery barrels
8. The system for simulating the firing of the main caliber, which includes the choice of barrels for the shot and the ignition system

This video provides a quick overview of all features:

The body of the model was made of slats and plywood, according to the instructions, after assembly it had to be covered with several layers of paint and varnish, while the publisher believes that this is enough for a running model. It seems that in Amati's homeland, Italy, there are no fluctuations in humidity, and their plywood-linden model cases do not "breathe" and the paintwork does not crack.
In Russia, the tree very noticeably changes its size with fluctuations in humidity, so for the integrity of the hull and protecting it from water, I covered it with a layer of fiberglass and made a removable deck from fiberglass. In this case, the head of the ship modeling circle of the Petrogradsky district of St. Petersburg helped me a lot, since I had no experience in such operations.

Bismarck became famous for notably battering the battlecruiser Hood and sinking the British flagship in the Danish Strait. At the same time, he could not get away from the hunt declared on him and was sunk in an unequal battle.

A year ago, a magazine for assembling a model of the battleship Bismarck appeared, but its numbers are getting more expensive every month, it comes out once a month and it will take a long time to collect it.

Much easier free download model drawings battleship Bismarck and assemble a paper copy with your own hands.

Firstly, it will be faster, and secondly, it will come out no less beautiful.
This article contains photographs of just a paper model, so you can immediately see how your Bismarck battleship model will look like.

The archive contains 60 sheets with patterns of this ship model. Scale 1:250. This is the most common scale for paper ship models.

Of course, such a volume of drawings cannot be worked out in an evening, and it can take from a month to two to assemble a paper model. But this does not compare in time with a couple of years, which they offer to collect in a magazine.

Yes, and you will not need tools, only a paper cutter, a color printer and glue.

This paper model is very strong, due to the well thought out frame of the ship. You can not be afraid that it will break or fall apart if it falls off the shelf.

Everything is in your hands, whether or not to make this model of the Bismarck battleship is up to you. All I can say is she looks amazing!

Tolik comments:

Well, a rubber model rug for cutting out details is also desirable, although you can handle it with ordinary nail scissors. I made my first paper model with scissors.

comments:

where can i find blueprints?

Tolik comments:

So in the article there is a link to the drawings in the word HERE

Tanner comments:

I started to assemble, yesterday I advanced only to the end of the frame. The model is really strong.

Dima comments:

Mmm ... it's nice that you told us so kindly ...))
If necessary, I can give sites for modellers ...))

Man comments:

Thanks, I started building a Bismarck model from a magazine, but then I abandoned it, it's too expensive, now I'll make a paper Bismarck!

Gasholder comments:

all clear

Roman comments:

Good model! Will have to try to do it.

Dmitry comments:

What paper should be used?

Roman comments:

I used thin cardboard for the power structure, deck and other word elements. And part - I made it from ordinary paper for drawing. Mostly those parts that required bending

Ivan comments:

Thank you! I've been wanting to find the complete drawings for a long time.

Bugor comments:

Thanks to. I saw half of the Bismarck from the magazine, caught fire to do it myself, but I don’t have any special skills, but I hope I can handle the paper one.

Roman comments:

Good luck building!

OlegLos comments:

armManiac comments:

Everything is there, you just need to look better, or you have a screw with troubles, and this particular sheet has not been unpacked.

Ilya comments:

I was going to make a Bismarck model out of cardboard, I myself will forever maybe there will be some advice I'm waiting for

Paul comments:

And what to advise - download the drawings of Bismarck and build!

Nurzhan comments:

And why is there no sheet number 25 in the archive?
downloaded several times, gives the same error, I really need this sheet .. ((