In the summer, the combined team of the MAI Tourist Club and the State Customs Committee “Citadel” (Brest) visited the mountains of the eastern part of the Central Tien Shan. Despite the fact that not all of the initial plans were realized, the campaign was a success. We got acquainted and fully imbued with the area, passed several beautiful passes and climbed the three highest peaks of the Tien Shan. See below for a photo report of our trip.

I'll tell you a little about what we wanted and what happened to go through. The acclimatization stage went according to plan. It included the passage of two survey passes of the Seven Muscovites (1B, 4130) and Chontash (2B, 4570) and the first ascent to the summit of Explorers of the Tien Shan (4490). Then, having reached the South Inylchek glacier, we climbed up it and through the Komsomolets glacier climbed out to the Schmidt Plateau pass (3B, 5270), which had not been visited for a long time. From its saddle we passed the traverse of the untrodden peak 5650 and, ahead of schedule, descended through the Proletarsky tourist glacier to MAL on South Inylchek.

At the next stage, we planned to pass three high-altitude traverses. But due to problems with my back and the paramount desire of the team to climb the seven-thousanders, they refused to continue the planned route. Later we switched to separate ascents in the upper reaches of the Southern Inylchek, sometimes for convenience dividing into subgroups. As a result, through the Razorvanny glacier we climbed the Eastern Saddle of Khan-Tengri (5800 m) and made an attempt to climb into. Tent Western (6511), climbed Khan-Tengri (7010) and Pobeda (7439), climbed the western peak of the peak of Military Topographers (6815).

The way from the base camp to the Semenovsky glacier takes 2.5 - 3 hours. The tents of the first camp are not located directly at the confluence with the South Inylchek, but a little lower, hiding from large avalanches from Khan Tengri and Chapaev Peak behind a rocky spur.

Feeling some euphoria from going on the route, we got carried away and talked until late in the evening. The degree in the blood also interfered with sleep. As a result, we passed out at ten, and at midnight got up for the early passage of a narrow and dangerous section between the peaks of Chapaev and Khan-Tengri, popularly called the bottle.

Evening snow covered all traces. The ascent began almost in the dark. The flashlight snatched out only 50 meters of the glacier in front of my feet. We went straight up, focusing on the silhouettes of large mountains. I was on Khan Tengri 8 years ago, but now everything has changed. Instead of deep snow - firn, powdered with snow. Yes, and we went down for the most part along the opposite side.

Before the beginning of the dangerous place we were overtaken by a bunch. One of the men in its composition was on Khan last year and in general terms he imagined where the standard ascent path passes.

The surrounding landscape brightened, and the mountains woke up.

On the way to the neck of the bottle from the Chapaev Peak, an avalanche began, which went lower, but kept us in suspense and covered us with snow dust.

A little higher we saw a tent with a crazy man who decided to put it in such a place.

Tent - dot in the center of the frame


Someone is coming down

Camp 5300 is located a little above the icefall of the Semenovsky glacier. Considering yesterday's gatherings, we could not deny ourselves the desire to boil tea there and take a nap for an hour.

The upper reaches of the Southern Inylchek and the peak of the Military Topographers (6873)


The rest cheered us up a little and we climbed relatively fresh into the bergschrund under the Western Saddle of Khan-Tengri. Here, at an altitude of 5800, the tents of the assault camp are located. The further route along the western ridge of Khan-Tengri is almost entirely fixed with stationary railings. There are also small sites for spending the night at 6350 (for one tent), 6400 (for two tents), at 6600 (for 1 tent), near the summit.

Compared to 2009, now most of the tents at 5800 are located in a wide covered berg under the saddle, and caves are being torn off there. It's less windy and safer. 8 years ago, from the saddle to the north, almost from under our feet, a giant cornice flew off, breaking off right along the path with poles.

A simple ascent to Khan Tengri could not give normal acclimatization. Therefore, we decided to climb with bivouac equipment to 6400, set up a tent, go to the top, and then descend and spend the night. Maybe in terms of load, such a plan was not entirely ideal, since it would be more competent to spend the night at 6400 first, and then climb the mountain the next day. But we were afraid of the worsening weather that the forecast promised. We decided to make the most of our first outing.

We packed up the camp and at about 3 o'clock in the morning we went up from 5800 m. I was lucky at the start to slip through a group of foreign climbers, and Misha stood behind them and later bypassed them one by one. On the way to 6400 I overtook a few people, whom I didn’t see more on the way to the top and on the descent, they probably turned back.

In 3 hours I climbed to the site at 6400, where one tent was already standing. The weather was nasty, visibility was limited, and a gusty wind was blowing. Therefore, I did not dare to set up our tent alone and started leveling and completing the site. Together with Misha, who soon came up, we set up and stretched out a tent, in which we left our belongings and equipment.

It must be said that climbing Khan-Tengri along the classic route from the Western Saddle is not quite sporty. The almost continuous thread of the railing allows you to climb and descend from the top in almost any weather. Modern equipment reliably protects even from strong winds, and the lack of visibility deprives you of pleasure, but does not interfere with the ascent. So we, of course, remembering the “cold - wind” from Vladimir Stetsenko, decided that there was no reason not to go upstairs.

If up to 6400 even with a backpack I felt quite fresh, then continuing the ascent already light, I noticed that the pace had dropped. Misha, on the contrary, added and went a couple of pitches ahead. I tried to find motivation to climb to the top, where I had already been before, along a fixed route and in the absence of visibility. I persuaded myself to continue climbing for the sake of further acclimatization. In front of the “trough” I caught up with Misha, who ran into a line on the railing.

We clearly lacked acclimatization, since the previous climb was a traverse of the Bagpipe peak (5650) with an overnight stay at 5300. I looked at the people in front, going noticeably slower and still resisting and continuing to move up. And I understood that if they endure, then I can endure a little.

We went to the top together with the people of Alma-Ata. The climb from 6400 took about 5 hours. Physically and psychologically, he was given hard. After a couple of weeks, we went to Pobeda easier and with much more pleasure. I dragged a heavy DSLR upstairs for nothing, taking only a couple of shots. We never saw the northern Inylchek behind the clouds.

Misha on top

We went down to the tent at 6400, where we had lunch and settled down to rest. The forecast was predicted to be negative, but we did not deny ourselves a high overnight stay.

We woke up at one in the morning and hurried down. Having passed the bottle before sunrise, at 5 am we were at South Inylchek.

On the left is Pogrebetsky Peak (6527)

Meanwhile, our main team climbed the East Saddle of Khan-Tengri through the icefall of the Razorvanny glacier. And having made an attempt to climb the Western Tent, in bad weather, she was forced to turn around and go down to the camp on the saddle. And there was no time left for a second attempt, as the deadline for our meeting in MAL was running out.

Vazha Pshavela (6918) and Nehru (6742)

Khan Tengri (6995)

Having reunited with the team, they began to jointly build further plans. It became clear that we no longer had time to continue the originally planned route and in the end go to Pobeda. As a result, we decided that it would be easier and more interesting to go to individual peaks. In addition, at that moment there was still hope for a possible traverse of the Victory.

The guys who were not on Khan decided to go there. And Misha and I were joined by Vanya, who was already a snow leopard, and we planned a walk to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier.

Here, in the Inylchek region, the main focus is on Khan Tengri. This year, more than a hundred people climbed from the south alone. Another part of the people is trying to climb the Pobeda Peak. The rest of the interesting and easily accessible peaks, which have a not so attractive height, are deprived of attention. Climbers visited many six-thousanders of the Meridional Ridge 1-2 times. In the area of ​​​​the glaciers Komsomolets, Shokalsky, Putevodny and other glaciers there are a lot of untrodden five-thousanders. The third highest peak of the Tien Shan - the peak of the Military Topographers (6873 m) is climbed extremely rarely, 1-2 groups in 5 years.

Since we didn’t have any descriptions, we decided with our subgroup to go up to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka and already there decide what to do next. They planned to choose between Military Topographers and Eastern Victory, depending on what they saw.

The path to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka leads along a marked path to the icefall at the turn of the glacier. Then it passes by the first camp of Pobeda under the pedestal of the Abalakov route and further up under the walls of Eastern Pobeda.

Abalakov's route goes from left to right

In the center of the frame, the western peak of the peak of the Military Topographers

There are many lakes in the central part of Zvezdochka. The glacier is broken not strongly. A small icefall opposite the spur of Shipilov Peak goes along the right side of the glacier. In order not to fall through, after dinner, we put on snowshoes and went further in them.

Western Summit of Military Topographers Peak (6815)

Avalanche from the Victory balcony. To the right is Zhuravlev's route

The rocky walls of the Eastern Victory impress with their steepness and scale. The sun practically does not illuminate them. Of the four routes laid here, none is repeated.

About 4 kilometers did not reach the Chonteren pass, located between the Eastern Victory and the Military Topographers the day before. In the morning Misha complained of being unwell. Probably not fully recovered after Khan Tengri, and yesterday at 9 o'clock was not easy. We approached the pass take-off, but did not rise higher. Since they considered that the rest will be much more productive below.


The next day, the condition and mood is excellent. Chonteren climbed almost on foot, hanging 50 meters of railings at the top of the takeoff. From the Chinese side, too, there are no big difficulties. Therefore, the tourist category of the pass 3B is very conditional.

Shipilov Peak (6201)

The advantage of the route to the summit of Eastern Pobeda (6762 m) is that from the saddle of the pass (5500 m) it is light and with the current state of snow it takes a day. We, having a certain margin of time, decide to go to the peak of the Military Topographers located further.

Behind the crest to Eastern Pobeda

A narrow cornice ridge goes straight from the pass in the direction of the peak of the Military Topographers. Walking along it in a bunch in a small group is a pleasure.


Above the ridge expands, turning into a snowy slope, which leads to a small plateau. On the edge of the plateau there is a group of picturesque ice seracs. Vanya dubbed them Julie's, since in Anatoly's reports he often saw similar landforms. Large pieces of ice break off the edge of the plateau and gradually slide into the abyss. While lunch was being prepared, we had time to walk and climb a little.

Victory Array


Walls of Military Topographers Peak

Between the seracs is Pobeda Peak

The camp was set up at an altitude of 6050 under the slopes leading to the western ridge of the Military Topographers. While the guys were setting up the tent, I managed to trail up and take some pictures of the mountain. The entire path of the traverse of Valery Khrishchaty's team from Pobeda to Khan opened up before my eyes.

Peaks of the legendary traverse in one panorama





Panorama from Pobeda to Khan

The plans to traverse the summit, which had arisen, were postponed until future trips, since Misha, motivating the decision by the preservation of strength for the Victory, refused to accompany us on the ascent.

In the morning, new adventures awaited us. About 5 o'clock shook a couple of times. As it turned out later, these were the echoes of a seven-magnitude Chinese earthquake. Where there was a small bergschrund the day before, a 3-meter ice wall appeared. Our entire plateau sank, deep ice funnels formed on the slope. There have been landslides here and there. As the guys from our second subgroup, who were descending from Khan at that moment, later said, avalanches descended from Chapaev and Khan Tengri at the same time, a cloud of dust flew to Inylchek. And just a few minutes before that, they managed to leave the Semenovsky glacier around the corner.

During the evening reconnaissance, the first rock gendarme of the western ridge of the Military Topographers seemed rather difficult. For its passage it would be necessary to hang a railing. Therefore, we decided to climb the ridge in a new way, leaving already above the gendarme.

South view

The amount of snow on the slopes was decent. Sometimes there were spots of crust, but mostly we had to trail and not forget about the avalanche danger. It went hard. Initially, having taken with them an additional rope and some kind of rock equipment, they left it all on the shelf. Because we realized that if we encounter serious technical difficulties, then in the current state we will not make it to the top. And everything that is easier, we will climb in a bunch.

The upper reaches of the South Inylchek

From the place of exit to the ridge under the rocky rise to the second gendarme there is a long section with cornices. We were more embarrassed not by them, but by the real chances to leave with an avalanche on the sheer cliffs of the Chinese side. At some point, they even tied up the entire length of the rope in order to be able to alternately release each other and tuck it behind protruding stones.

The weather didn't help the climb, but it didn't make us turn around either. Hoods and windproof masks saved from the gusty wind. Having passed the cornices, we approached the rocky gendarme. The lower part was climbed. I climbed higher, tensing a little in the fireplace, and threw off the rope to Vanya.

Above the gendarme, the crest expands and becomes simple. But the wind and deep snow made it difficult to go. We climbed to the Western summit of the Military Topographers (6815 m) in the absence of visibility. In the tour, they found a note from Kirikov-Oleynik-Parshin dated 2005, who, in turn, removed the note from Sergey Lavrov from 1999.

According to the navigator, there were still 400 meters and 60 in height to the Main Peak, but there were no thoughts of going there without visibility.

It cleared up on the descent

We went down to camp 6050, where Misha met us with an awesome borscht, by 18:30 in the evening.


We got up early in the morning, went down to Zvezdochka and ran to the base camp, where we were already met by the guys who had successfully climbed Khan Tengri.




In the evening, an Iranian woman came to talk to us, which the guys actually saved on the Khan. According to stories, during an overnight stay at 6400, at 8 pm, she went down to the ledge to their tents and remained seated. The girl no longer had the strength to continue the descent. Initially, she refused the invitation to go into the tent, as well as the offer of tea. But in the end, they put her in a sleeping bag, warmed her, gave her a drink, and sent her downstairs in a normal condition in the morning.

After resting for a couple of days, they began to gather for the Victory. The weather is over by now. After August 10, not heavy but frequent snowfalls began, and winds blew up above. We understood that there could be no eternal bad weather and a window would definitely appear, we only needed to guess the exit to Vazha Pshavela by this moment. And from there to the top day. Part of the team also did not want to give up the idea of ​​a traverse so easily, so they took an additional arc tent upstairs, all together intending to live in a tent.

There are seven of us left on the team. Zhenya flew to work after trying to climb the Western Tent, and Maxim after climbing Khan Tengri. And three guys from Novosibirsk and Moscow joined us. We decided to go up the mountain autonomously, but climb together, trying to help each other.

Dmitry Grekov gave us a radio station and further helped by maintaining and reporting the current weather forecast. This attitude was very pleasant, especially since we were not Ak-Sai's clients.

While the weather was on the Tien Shan, the people, believing that the time had not come, acclimatized on the Khan, rested and talked in the base camp. As a result, when everyone was ready to go up, the weather turned off. Before us, three people climbed through Vazha, who unsealed the mountain this season, and four guys from the Novosibirsk team passed the traverse, climbing the Zhuravlev route and descending the classic.

We went upstairs on August 14th, believing that just in time for the possible window on the 18th-19th, we would row up to Vazha.


The first obstacle on the way to the summit is the icefall of the Wild Pass. Unlike the further route, every year the first climbers on the mountain hang it with new railings. The icefall itself is normal. Above a steep step in one and a half ropes, everything is walked on foot. Dangerous approach under the hanging dumps and ice at the beginning of the railing. Therefore, it is advisable to pass the icefall either early in the morning or in the late afternoon, when the peak of solar activity is behind.

Leaving the base camp after lunch, we stopped for the night about a kilometer from the icefall. It is scary to stop closer because of possible avalanches and landslides from the slopes of Pobeda.

Having passed the icefall in the morning, we went through the snowy fields to a small trough on the Dikiy pass. While dinner was being prepared, the stragglers approached. Since the weather was not promised for tomorrow, the goal on this day is to climb to the caves at 5800, in order to comfortably wait for it to improve there.


View of the Western Saddle of Khan Tengri

Exit to the Wild

The slopes above the Wild are gentle, but overloaded with snow and avalanches. Plots of deep snow alternate with a firn board. Put on beepers and snowshoes. Trying not to cut the slope, we went up, breaking the path.

In the center of the frame we passed the traverse of the top of the Bagpipe (5650)

According to the information we have, two caves were dug on the slopes for three and six people. Coming to the bottom of them at an altitude of 5700, as it later turned out to be less, they expanded it to seven people. Three guys from the parallel group went to spend the night higher.

By evening the weather had deteriorated and it was very cold. While expanding our cave, we met a team of people descending from above. The weather prevented them from going to the top. To the question: “Where are you from?”, Ilya, who led the group, replied: “From hell!”.

At night, they dug up the entrance to the cave a couple of times. The whole next day the revenge continued. Our walkie-talkie quickly sat down. Left without weather and without a forecast, they began to try to get information by satellite phone. In response to an SMS with a request, one of our friends wrote that heavy rains were expected at Pobeda, another sent a long text in English, copied from the site, saying that everything would be very bad, but not without specifics. We were also interested in specific figures for cloudiness, precipitation and wind strength.

Seeing what was happening on the street, and having no perspective, the idea of ​​a traverse of the summit was finally abandoned, switching to a radial ascent. Extra things and an additional tent were left in the cave and closer to dinner on August 17, when it was a little more visible, we went upstairs.

There are several rocky belts on the ridge of Vazha from 5800 to peak 6918. The first is at 5800 - 6000, the second is 6100 - 6250 and a couple of small areas above 6400. There are traditional places for a tent at 6100 under the protection of small stones, and at 6400. There are no places protected from the wind. In case of heavy snowfalls, the rocks at 6100 and 6400 do not fully protect against avalanches either. In fact, a small arc tent can be put up almost everywhere, breaking off part of the slope. You will have to tinker with the platform for the tent.


The rocky sections of the ridge are fixed with railings. But they are not updated and only sometimes they are duplicated by the forces of enthusiasts with newer ropes. In some places the rope is broken or without braid. The rocks are simple, so it is better to climb on your own, insuring yourself with a jumar.


In the evening we went to the sites at 6400. Three guys walking in parallel found a ready place for their arc redfox. We began to expand the site next to our large tent. After some time, they came across a human body, as it turned out later, perhaps it was Alexander Popov, who was covered here in 2012 by an avalanche. Having dug it with snow, they went 50 meters to the side and dug a place on the slope.

We are building a site at 6400

The bodies of those who died at the Victory are a little tense. It is clear that there is simply no strength and opportunity to go down. But it's one thing when a person is wrapped in an awning and a tent and conditionally buried away from the path. Another, when at 7250, in the trough under the gendarme, a dead person just sits. It is not so difficult to wrap it in an awning, but you need to know about it in advance and have an awning with you. On a ridge covered with fir, you can’t just bury it in the snow and you won’t take off your puff.

Behind the peak of Nehru

Tien Shan- majestic mountains in the heart of Central Asia. People come here to lose their heads from the beauty of landscapes, leave a piece of their soul in deep gorges and lose peace forever, falling in love with dense coniferous forests and crystal lakes.

Tien Shan mountain system spread from east to west across the territory, and. The northern part of the Tien Shan, marked by the Ketmen, Zailiysky Alatau, Kungei-Ala-Too and Kirghiz ranges, stretches from China through the territory of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Most areas are easily accessible either from Almaty(Kazakhstan) or Bishkek(Kyrgyzstan). Eastern, including the ridges of Borohoro, Iren-Khabyrga, Bogdo-Ula, Karlyktag Halyktau, Sarmin-Ula, Kuruktag - is almost completely located in Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region (XUAR) China. The ridges of the Western Tien Shan - Karatau, Talas Ala-Too, Chatkal, Pskem and Ugam begin in Kyrgyzstan and end in the Tashkent region of Uzbekistan. This popular tourist destination is accessible from both Kyrgyzstan, so from the capital of Uzbekistan - Tashkent. The southern and southwestern border of the Tien Shan - the Fergana Range - frames the Fergana Valley. Pearl of Kyrgyzstan - inner (Central) Tien Shan- surrounded from the north by the Kirghiz ridge, from the south - by Kakshaal-Too, from the west - by Ferghana, and from the east - by the Akshiyrak massif. located here Lake Issyk-Kul attracts guests from all over the world. It is easily accessible by car, bus, train and even plane.

The Tien Shan is one of the highest mountains on the planet - more than thirty peaks here exceed the mark of six kilometers. It is no coincidence that the name of these mountains is translated as "heavenly" or "divine" mountains.

An extensive chain of foothills, gentle slopes and picturesque valleys and lakes have made these mountains attractive both for life and for recreation. And thanks to trails of varying complexity and configuration, developed infrastructure, these mountains have become a magnet for active tourism. There are routes for, light and heavy, ecological and ski tourism winter, interesting holiday on the shores of lakes in summer, as well as architectural monuments for lovers ethnographic tourism.

The mountains

Climbers and athletes aim at - the highest point of the Tien Shan and the northernmost seven-thousander of the planet - and its rival - one of the most beautiful mountains on Earth. In addition to them, in the Tien Shan, especially in its Chinese part, there are still unconquered peaks.

Victory Peak(7439 m) on the border of Kyrgyzstan and China remained unmeasured and unexplored for a long time due to the fact that mountain ranges cover it from all sides. The height was accurately determined only in 1943. Due to the smoothed and stretched peak, the mountain seems calm, but in reality, strong winds fly under the clouds, fog descends from above, and avalanches often come down. There is an opinion that Pobeda Peak is one of the most difficult seven-thousanders. Climbing this mountain requires good physical shape, equipment, but most importantly - endurance and courage. At the same time, more than a dozen athletes managed to get here, which means that Victory still submits to the brave and persistent.

known from time immemorial. The correct pyramid directed upwards with a height of 6995 meters is clearly visible from the whole area. In ancient times, it was believed that a deity lives on top - Tengri. Hence the name. There is one more - Kan-Too or "bloody mountain". At sunset, Khan Tengri turns bright red, the snow cap remains crimson even when the neighboring mountains plunge into twilight. The Khan-Tengri rock contains pink marble - that's why it seems that the bloody sunset rivers, sparkling and shimmering, flow down the slope.

The proximity of the state borders of Kazakhstan and China for a long time made the geographical belonging of Khan Tengri controversial. As a result, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China agreed that vertex- the common property of the three states.

Athletes have been successfully storming this six-thousander since the mid-1930s. The classic route follows the western ridge. The weather here is unstable, severe frosts can suddenly hit, wind blows, so a trip to Khan Tengri can be a strong test of strength. It only irritates climbers. The popularity of Khan Tengri has another reason. Geographically, when viewed from the north, the location of Khan Tengri (6995 m) and its western lintel (5900 m) to Chapaev Peak (6371 m), although two hundred meters lower, are still very similar to giants Himalayas: Everest(8848 m), his southern saddle(7900 m) and neighboring Lhotse Peak(8516 m), also called K2. Therefore, they also go to Kyrgyzstan to work out the Himalayan “classics”.

Those who are not confident in their form can try their hand at trekking to the base camp on the Southern Inylchek Glacier. From here you have a stunning view of the Tien Shan mountains. By the way, South Inylchek is the largest of the 7.3 thousand km2 of Tien Shan glaciers. Its neighbor - North Inylchek is a little smaller. At the junction of two ice sleeves there is a mysterious "disappearing" Lake Merzbacher. Every year - in winter and summer - in a week, the lake with a roar completely loses water, dumping it into the outflowing rivers. At the bottom there are ice blocks of icebergs. It is difficult to get around the lake during the full-flowing period - it is surrounded by rocks. The age of the reservoir, as well as the mechanisms of its occurrence and discharges, have not been fully studied. That is why both adventurers and scientists strive here. Tien Shan glaciers studied in connection with global warming. Changing of the climate led to their rapid melting, so shape of glaciers and their size is carefully measured.

The Tien Shan Mountains are a popular destination for lovers snowboarding, freeride practicing . The ski season here lasts from December to April, while the weather is mild and sunny. Ski resorts Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan have enough tracks that differ in both complexity and configuration. There are popular destinations and new routes. Organize descent from mountains and glaciers and transfer to the top by helicopter. High-mountain ski resort operates in Kazakhstan Chimbulak. Resorts have made a name for themselves in Kyrgyzstan "" "Kashka-suu", "Orlovka", "Oruu-sai". Known in Uzbekistan "Chimgan", "Beldersay", under construction ski complex "Amirsay". The infrastructure of such resorts is getting better every year, they are guided by European experience. Favorable difference between the Tien Shan and ski resorts in Austria, Switzerland, France, Italy because there are fewer tourists. In Tien Shan everyone can get unique ski holiday.

Gorges

Tien Shan gives everyone a chance. In Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, tourists are waiting for peaks and picturesque passes, ready to surrender to those who are stubborn and believe in themselves. Here you will not need professional equipment, enough comfortable clothes and shoes, you will not have to spend time on long acclimatization. And do not be afraid of the attractiveness of these places among tourists - the Tien Shan is so vast and so beautiful that there are reserved corners, little-known destinations and untrodden paths.

AT mountains of Kazakhstan popular destination - Almaty region, in which it is located sports complex "Medeo", Assy-Turgen observatory. For picturesque views in the Kazakh Tien Shan go to Kolsai (Kulsai) lakes. Three reservoirs are hidden among the green spurs in gorge Kolsai, 10 km north of the border with Kyrgyzstan.

In Uzbekistan, modest indicators of peaks (3309 m) and Peak Okhotnichiy(3099 m) are compensated by the scenic passes Ottoman, Kumbel, the beauty of the plateau Pulatkhan and mountain routes for every taste, many of which do not require serious sports training. Moreover, at the May Alpiniade they teach the basics of mountaineering. And along the shores of the local resort - Charvak reservoir (Charvak)- there are excellent hotels and comfortable guest houses.

Directions for , horse trips and runs on mountain bike waiting in Kyrgyzstan. Incredible panoramic views open up from the passes, and higher up in the mountains along the course of the Ak-Suu and Tash-Tekir rivers, the swift rivers turn into alpine waterfalls Sharkyratma, cascades of Kuldurek waterfalls, Archaly-Tor and Takyr-Tor waterfalls, as well as many other famous and nameless, but invariably beautiful. Mountain ranges covered with dense coniferous forests Turksey-Alatoo and Kungei Alatoo change the idea of ​​mountains as a stone kingdom. A dense carpet of tall trees and herbs rules here, and in spring the slopes are completely painted with a bright palette. Beauties Tien Shan firs- giants with dark green needles. Another local attraction - relic nuts- appeared here in the Cretaceous period, more than 50 million years ago. Scattered along the spurs of the Tien Shan and concentrated in a tract in Kyrgyzstan, these trees are striking in size and still bear fruit.

The spurs of the Tien Shan are a network of interesting gorges. Red slopes of the gorge Jety-Oguz awaken the artist in everyone. Skazka Canyon, reminiscent of one of the American Grand Canyon, and the other of Jordanian Petra, appears special for each visitor, the play of light and shadow creates bizarre, each time different shapes and outlines. The most beautiful gorges Ak-su, Barskoon, and Chon-Koy-Su- this is the kingdom of herbs and stormy mountain streams.

in the gorges Chon-Ak-Su (Grigorievsky) and Semenovskoe break in the summer yurt camps. Yurt- a fabric tent-house, a traditional dwelling of Asian nomads. Here you can enjoy the pristine nature, take a break from the city noise, get acquainted with the life and culture of the descendants of Tomiris, Attila and Genghis Khan. The Kyrgyz are sensitive to their history, cherish their customs and culinary traditions. AT yurt camps they introduce guests to traditional costumes, music, cuisine, organize horseback riding around the area.

Gorges Chon-Koy-Su and Tamga and completely turned the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe mountains. Chon-Koy-Su - the abode of ancient people who left behind numerous drawings- petroglyphs, telling about their life, the animals that lived here. And Tamga got its name (from the Turkic - “sign”) thanks to the ancient Buddhist symbols that the local religious community carved on the stones a long time ago.

The gorges will be of interest not only to those who love, but also to those who like to tickle their nerves on mountain rivers. Ideal for alloy and rafting swift Angren, Akbulak, Ili, Koksu, Kyzylsu, Maidantal, Naryn, Oygaing, Pskem, Tarim, Chu, Ugam, Chatkal and others. They pass through many rapids, only in some areas they go out onto the plains, and in the upper reaches and lowlands they go along narrow rocky canyons.

valleys

As a direction for camping, tracking, paragliding high mountain valleys and pastures are suitable jailoo (jailoo). This is a protected world of lush herbs, mineral springs and crystal lakes.

One of the largest and most famous A triangular crystal, squeezed in the vice of the Kyrgyz Range, Suusamyr-Too and Dzhumgal-Too, is a magnet for lovers extreme and "black" holiday. In winter, they ride here skiing and snowboarding, including on wild trails, with a drop from a helicopter to mountain peaks covered with dry and crumbly "Tien Shan" snow. Summer enjoy trekking tours from campground or fly to paragliding, covering the beauty of the valley from a bird's eye view.

Valley - majestic alpine meadows overlooking the picturesque alpine plateau Arabel. This lake district was formed due to glaciers. There are 50 reservoirs of different sizes. However, the most picturesque is the crystal lake. Kashka-Suu, like a mirror reflecting the mountain peaks directed upwards.

Valley Manzhyly-Ata known not only for its picturesque landscapes. Pilgrims and lovers of relaxation at mineral springs come here. Here are located stone age petroglyphs, Scythian burial grounds, medieval ruins and Buddhist inscriptions. According to an ancient legend, Mother Deer lived here, giving rise to the Kyrgyz tribe Bugu. And the valley of Manzhyly-Ata is named in honor of the Muslim preacher, Sufi and miracle worker who spread Islam here. Numerous mineral springs gushing out of the ground keys, according to testimonies, help to heal from diseases.

Alpine lakes

There is a place in the Tien Shan for a calm beach summer vacation.

It ranks seventh among the deepest lakes in the world. This crystal surface, framed by mountain ranges, is the pride of the Tien Shan. The name translates as "hot lake". Although the temperature in the region drops below zero in winter, and water bodies are covered with ice, the brackish warm Issyk-Kul remains without an ice cover all year round. The first mention of Issyk-Kul was left by Chinese travelers in the 2nd century BC. They called it "Zhe-Hai" - "warm sea".

Issyk-Kul today - resort, active all year round. In summer, people come here to soak up the water - there are more sunny days here than on Black Sea, and the infrastructure - beaches and piers, hotels, shops and restaurants - offer a choice for every taste and budget. In winter, lovers of extreme recreation go to the vicinity of Issyk-Kul - skiers, snowboarders, freeriders.

Not far from Issyk-Kul, you can even experience something that is possible only in one place on the planet - on dead sea in Israel. Kyrgyzstan has its own dead lake- Kara-Kul, located 400 meters from Issyk-Kul. The salinity of the water is more than 70 percent or 132 grams per liter - enough to have a rejuvenating and healing effect, as well as allow the vacationer to "lie" on the water surface without any effort.

lovers outdoor recreation, as well as birdwatchers those interested ecotourism, will appreciate the numerous alpine reservoirs of Kyrgyzstan.

hidden among the green western spurs of the celestial mountains so asks for the artist's canvas. Located at an altitude of 1878 meters above sea level in the conservation area of ​​the same name, Sary-Chelek is one of the deepest reservoirs of the Tien Shan - in some places to the bottom of 220 meters. However, the water is so clear that in a smooth mirror you can see what is at the very bottom. Its name - translated from the Kyrgyz "yellow bowl", the lake received due to the colorful cover of bright flowers and shrubs reflected in the water.

The green western spurs of the Tien Shan are full of numerous counterparts of the bright Sary-Chelek. In the northern part of the Chatkal ridge, small reservoirs-pearls are hidden. Calm lake Aflatun, lost among the green spurs, and like stones strung on a thread of an alpine river, lake Kara-Tokoy- the lower one, famous for its underwater forest, and the upper one, squeezed into the vice of the gorge of the same name.

A different landscape opens from the reserved shores of lakes Chatyr-Kul and (Song-kyul). These reservoirs of the Central Tien Shan, located at an altitude of more than three kilometers, are squeezed by gray stone peaks in tectonic depressions among flat high-mountain valleys and green pastures of jailu. Both are covered with ice for the winter. And in spring, summer and autumn, birds flock here from all over Eurasia. Ideal destinations for mountain tourism, lovers of pristine nature and its feathered inhabitants.

Monuments of history

Tien Shan would not be Tien Shan without the people who left their mark here. Evidence that these regions have been inhabited since time immemorial remained in the tract Saimaluu-Tash or Saimaly-Tash ("Patterned Stones"). Here in the highlands gorge near Kazarman More than 107,000 drawings carved on rocks dating back to the 2nd-3rd millennium BC have been discovered. Similar artifacts related to the III-I millennium BC. e found on Chumysh rocks on the spurs of the Ferghana Range. Rock galleries of "younger" and smaller scale are also found in the Issyk-Kul, Naryn and Talas regions of Kyrgyzstan. Stone paintings tell about the life of the peoples who lived here and depict the beauties of nature.

Those who are interested in history will appreciate that in the Tien Shan, along with Muslim ones, artifacts of local and Turkic beliefs, Buddhism, Christianity-Nestorianism have been preserved.

In the Middle Ages, the Tien Shan was a milestone on the caravan routes from Europe to China. Silent witnesses of that era were the ruins of a fortified settlement Koshoi-Korgon and also mysterious caravanserai Tash-Rabat. Situated among picturesque mountains, they continue to attract attention with unanswered questions.

Legends of the Tien Shan

Kyrgyz Olympus
The ancient Turks and Mongols revered the god Tengri as the organizer of the world together with the goddess Umai and Erlik. They called him the deity of the upper zone of the world and believed that he writes the fate of people, measures the term for everyone and determines who will be the ruler of people. Khan-Tengri Peak was considered a kind of Olympus - the home of the supreme deity.

Tien Shan and Issyk
Beautiful legend talks about the origin of the names Tien Shan and Issyk-Kul. Allegedly, in ancient times, when there were no mountains here yet, a strong, like a hero, a shepherd Tien Shan and his beautiful and modest wife Issyk lived in green valleys. And their descendants would glorify their happiness for centuries, but only the faithful companion of the Tien Shan attracted the evil sorcerer Khan Bagysh. The sorcerer's henchmen kidnapped the blue-eyed Issyk in front of frightened children. In the evening, Tien Shan returned and did not find his wife in the yurt. He took a bow and arrows and went to the sorcerer's palace. Bagysh sent countless troops against him, but the shepherd scattered them all in righteous anger. The sorcerer was frightened, turned into a giant eagle and raised Issyk in his claws to the blue heights. And he sent a spell on the hero to turn him into a stone. The mighty Tien Shan felt his legs and arms grow numb and heavy and decided on the last desperate attempt - he put an arrow on the bow - and fired. A well-aimed arrow pierced the eagle's wing. Bagysh released the desired beauty from his claws. Out of anger, he cursed her, wishing Issyk to become water, and went underground, not getting to anyone. Tien Shan rushed to catch his wife. The shepherd petrified, turned into mighty mountains, and his wife became a crystal lake. The children turned into swift mountain rivers, forever remaining with their epic parents.

On the borders of the five countries of Central Asia, there are beautiful and majestic mountains - the Tien Shan. On the mainland of Eurasia, they are second only to the Himalayas and the Pamirs, and are also one of the largest and most extensive Asian mountain systems. The heavenly mountains are rich not only in minerals, but also in interesting geographical facts. The description of any object is built from many points and important nuances, but only a complete coverage of all directions will help to create a full-fledged geographical image. But let's not rush, but dwell on each section in detail.

Figures and Facts: Everything you need to know about the Celestial Mountains

The name Tien Shan has Turkic roots, because the peoples of this particular language group have inhabited this territory since time immemorial and still live in this region. If translated literally, then the toponym will sound like Heavenly Mountains or Divine Mountains. The explanation for this is very simple, the Turks from time immemorial worshiped the sky, and if you look at the mountains, you get the impression that with their peaks they reach the very clouds, most likely that is why the geographical object got its name. And now, some more facts about the Tien Shan.

• What usually begins the description of any object? Of course, with numbers. The length of the Tien Shan mountains is more than two and a half thousand kilometers. Believe me, this is a pretty impressive number. By comparison, the territory of Kazakhstan extends for 3,000 kilometers, while Russia stretches for 4,000 kilometers from north to south. Imagine these objects and appreciate the magnitude of these mountains.
• The height of the Tien Shan mountains reaches 7000 meters. There are 30 peaks in the system with a height of more than 6 kilometers, while Africa and Europe cannot boast of any such mountain.
• Separately, I would like to highlight the highest point of the Heavenly Mountains. Geographically, it is located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and the Republic of China. There is a very long debate around this issue, and neither side wants to concede. The highest peak of the Tien Shan Mountains is a ridge with a triumphant name - Pobeda Peak. The height of the object is 7439 meters.

Location of one of the largest mountain systems in Central Asia

If you transfer the mountain system to the political map, then the object will fall on the territory of five states. More than 70% of the mountains are located on the territory of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and China. The rest falls on Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. But the highest points and massive ridges are located in the northern part. If we consider the geographical position of the Tien Shan mountains from the regional side, then this will be the central part of the Asian continent.

Geographical zoning and relief

The territory of the mountains can be conditionally divided into five orographic regions. Each is distinguished by a peculiar relief and structure of the ridges. Pay attention to the photo of the Tien Shan mountains, which is located above. Agree, the grandeur and stateliness of these mountains are admirable. And now, let's take a closer look at the zoning of the system:

• Northern Tien Shan. This part is almost completely located on the territory of Kazakhstan. The main ranges are Zailiysky and Kungei Alatau. These mountains are characterized by an average height (no more than 4000 m) and a strong indentation of the relief. There are many small rivers in the region, which originate from glacial peaks. The region also includes the Ketmen Ridge, Kazakhstan shares it with Kyrgyzstan. On the territory of the latter, there is another ridge of the northern part - the Kyrgyz Alatau.
• Eastern Tien Shan. Of the largest parts of the mountain system, one can distinguish: Borohoro, Bogdo-Ula, as well as medium and small ranges: Iren-Khabyrga and Sarmin-Ula. The entire eastern part of the Heavenly Mountains is located on the territory of China, mainly where the places of permanent settlement of the Uighurs are located, it is from this local dialect that the ridges got their names.
• Western Tien Shan. This orographic unit occupies the territories of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. The largest is the Karatau ridge, and then comes the Talas Alatau, which got its name from the river of the same name. These parts of the Tien Shan mountains are rather low, the relief drops to 2000 meters. This is because this is a more ancient region, the territory of which was not subjected to repeated mountain building. Thus, the destructive power of exogenous factors has done its job.
• Southwestern Tien Shan. This region is located in Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. In fact, this is the lowest part of the mountains, which consists of the Fregan Range, framing the valley of the same name.
• Central Tien Shan. This is the highest part of the mountain system. Its ranges occupy the territory of China, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. It is in this part that almost all six-thousanders are located.

"Gloomy Giant" - the highest point of the Heavenly Mountains

As mentioned earlier, the highest point of the Tien Shan mountains is called Victory Peak. It is easy to guess that the toponym got its name in honor of a significant event - the victory of the USSR in the most difficult and bloody war of the 20th century. Officially, the mountain is located in Kyrgyzstan, near the border with China, not far from the autonomy of the Uighurs. However, for a long time, the Chinese side did not want to recognize that the object belonged to the Kyrgyz, and even after documenting the fact, it continues to look for ways to take possession of the desired peak.

This object is very popular with climbers, it is included in the list of five seven-thousanders that must be conquered to receive the title of "Snow Leopard". Near the mountain, only 16 kilometers to the southwest, is the second highest peak of the Divine Mountains. We are talking about Khan Tengri - the highest point of the Republic of Kazakhstan. Its height is only slightly short of seven kilometers and is 6995 meters.

Age-old history of rocks: geology and structure

In the place where the Tien Shan mountains are located, there is an ancient belt of increased endogenous activity, these zones are also called geosynclines. Since the system has a fairly decent height, this suggests that it was subjected to secondary uplift, although it has a rather ancient origin. Studies show that the base of the Heavenly Mountains is composed of Precambrian and Lower Paleozoic rocks. The strata of the mountains were subjected to long-term deformations and the impact of endogenous forces, which is why the minerals are represented by metamorphosed gneisses, sandstones and typical limestone and shale.

Since most of this region was flooded in the Mesozoic, the mountain valleys are covered with lake-type deposits (sandstone and clay). The activity of glaciers also did not pass without a trace, moraine deposits stretch from the highest peaks of the Tien Shan mountains and reach the very border of the snow line.

The repeated uplift of the mountains in the Neogene had a very significant effect on their geological structure; relatively "young" rocks of the volcanic type are found in the parent basement. It is these inclusions that are mineral and metal minerals, which are very rich in the Divine Mountains.

The lowest part of the Tien Shan, which is located in the south, has been exposed to exogenous agents for thousands of years: the sun, winds, glaciers, temperature fluctuations, water during flooding. All this could not but affect the structure of the rocks, nature had severely battered their slopes and "exposed" the mountains to the very parent rock. The complex geological history has influenced the heterogeneity of the Tien Shan relief, which is why high snowy peaks alternate with valleys and dilapidated plateaus.

Gifts of the Heavenly Mountains: Minerals

The description of the Tien Shan mountains cannot do without mentioning minerals, because this system brings a very good income to the states in whose territories it is located. First of all, these are complex conglomerates of polymetallic ores. Large deposits are found on the territory of all five countries. Most of all in the bowels of the mountains of lead and zinc, but you can find something more rare. For example, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan have established the extraction of antimony, and there are also separate deposits of molybdenum and tungsten. In the southern part of the mountains, near the Fregan Valley, coal is mined, as well as other fossil fuels: oil and gas. Of the rare elements found: strontium, mercury and uranium. But most of all, the territory is rich in building materials and semi-precious stones. The slopes and foot of the mountains are strewn with small deposits of cement, sand and various types of granite.

However, many minerals are not available for development, because infrastructure is very poorly developed in mountainous regions. Mining in hard-to-reach places requires very modern technical means and large financial investments. The states are in no hurry to develop the resources of the Tien Shan and often transfer the initiative to the private hands of foreign investors.

Ancient and modern glaciation of the mountain system

The height of the Tien Shan mountains is several times greater than the snow line, which means that it is no secret that the system is covered by a huge number of glaciers. However, the situation with glaciers is not very stable, because only in the last 50 years, their number has decreased by almost 25% (3 thousand square kilometers). For comparison, this is even more than the area of ​​the city of Moscow. The depletion of the snow and ice cover of the Tien Shan threatens the region with a serious environmental disaster. Firstly, it is a natural source of food for rivers and alpine lakes. Secondly, this is the only source of fresh water for all living things that inhabit the slopes of the mountains, including local peoples and settlements. If changes continue at the same pace, then by the end of the 21st century, the Tien Shan will lose more than half of its glaciers and leave four countries without a valuable water resource.

Ice-free lake and other water bodies

The highest mountain of the Tien Shan is located near the highest lake in Asia - Issyk-Kul. This object belongs to the state of Kyrgyzstan, and is popularly called the Non-Freezing Lake. It's all about the low pressure at high altitude and the temperature of the water, thanks to which the surface of this lake never freezes. This place is the main tourist area of ​​the region, on an area of ​​​​more than 6 thousand square kilometers, there is a huge number of high-altitude resorts and various recreational areas.

Another picturesque water body of the Tien Shan is located in China, literally a hundred kilometers from the main trading city of Urumqi. We are talking about Lake Tianshi - this is a kind of "Pearl of the Heavenly Mountains". The water there is so clean and transparent that it is difficult to realize the depth due to the fact that it seems that you can literally reach the bottom with your hand.

In addition to lakes, the mountains are cut by a huge number of river valleys. Small rivers originate from the very peaks and are fed by melted glacial waters. Many of them are still lost on the slopes of the mountains, others combine into larger water bodies and carry their waters to the foot.

From picturesque meadows to icy peaks: climate and natural conditions

Where the Tien Shan mountains are located, natural zones replace each other with height. Due to the fact that the orographic units of the system have a heterogeneous relief, different natural zones can be located at the same level in different parts of the Celestial Mountains:

• Alpine meadows. They can be located both at an altitude of more than 2500 meters, and at 3300 meters. A feature of this landscape is juicy hilly valleys that surround bare rocks.
• Forest zone. It is quite rare in this region, mainly in hard-to-reach high mountain gorges.
• Forest-steppe. The trees of this zone are low, mostly small-leaved or coniferous. To the south, a meadow and steppe landscape is more clearly seen.
• Steppe. This natural zone covers foothills and valleys. There is a huge variety of meadow grasses and steppe plants. The further south the region is, the more clearly the semi-desert and sometimes even desert landscape can be traced.

The climate of the Heavenly Mountains is very harsh and unstable. It is influenced by opposing air masses. In summer, the Tien Shan mountains are dominated by the tropics, and in winter, polar streams dominate here. In general, the region can be called rather arid and sharply continental. In the summer, dry winds and unbearable heat are very common. In winter, temperatures can drop to record highs, and frosts often occur during the off-season. Precipitation is very unstable, most of it occurs in April and May. It is the unstable climate that affects the reduction in the area of ​​ice sheets. Also, a sharp change in temperature and constant winds have a very negative effect on the relief of the region. The mountains are slowly but surely being destroyed.

Untouched corner of nature: animals and plants

The Tien Shan mountains have become home to a huge number of living beings. The fauna is extremely diverse and varies considerably depending on the region. For example, the northern part of the mountains is represented by European and Siberian types, while the Western Tien Shan is inhabited by typical representatives of the Mediterranean, Africa and the Himalayan region. You can also easily meet typical representatives of the mountain fauna: snow leopards, snowcocks and mountain goats. Ordinary foxes, wolves and bears live in the forests.

The flora is also very diverse; fir and Mediterranean walnut can easily coexist in the region. In addition, there is a huge number of medicinal plants and valuable herbs. This is a real phyto pantry of Central Asia.

It is very important to protect the Tien Shan from human influence; for this, two reserves and one national park have been created in the region. There are so few places left on the planet with untouched nature, so it is important to direct all efforts to preserve this wealth for posterity.

Schematic map of the Eastern part of the central Tien Shan

Khan Tengri and the Sredinny Ridge from the slopes of Pobeda Peak. Photo: RISK online

Tien Shan is a Chinese word meaning "Celestial Mountains". This is a great mountain system located mainly in Kyrgyzstan and the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region (XUAR) of China. Its northern and remote western ranges are in Kazakhstan, while the southwestern part reaches the borders of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Inside the territory of the ex-USSR, the Tien Shan mountains stretched like an arch for more than 1200 km in length and 300 km in width. They border in the north with the Ili valley and the Fergana depression in the south, while the eastern outskirts, as it were, join the Alai Range of the Gissar-Alai mountain system.

All Tien Shan ridges, except for the meridional one, run from west to east and consist of four mountain ranges separated in a natural way: Central Tien Shan, Northern and Western, as well as the Inner Tien Shan. The northern slopes of the ridges are cut by gorges of mountain river valleys and reach a depth of 2,000 - 4,000 meters, they are short and shallow. The dominant height of the peaks is 4000-5000 meters, and the passes pass between the heights of 3500-4500 m. The climate is typically Central Asian and with the height of precipitation it becomes more and more - up to 900-1000 mm per year on the western slopes of the Ferghana Valley.

The Tien Shan has a substantial ice cover: 7787 glaciers, the largest being the South Inylchek, 60 kilometers long.

It has several regions: Trans-Alai Alatau, Inylchek, Kirgiz, Kokshaal-too, Tengri-Tag, Tersky-Ala-too, Talas Ala-too, Fergana, etc.

Tourist-climbing research of the "Soviet" part of the region began in the 30s, by a fairly large number of groups, and by and large has not been completed to this day. True, it is impossible to argue that the area has been “setting down” all these years - and it’s not only the Great Patriotic War, in the days of the USSR the area was restricted for access (issuing passes to the border strip took several months), and sometimes it was simply closed for access for 5-10 years. Therefore, if you study the reports, both tourist and climbing, you can determine the "windows" when access to the area was opened. Today, getting there is not a problem, you can get registered on your own (registration, issuing passes), or again through any travel agency.

Over the years of development in the region, more than a dozen passes have been passed, ascents to the main peaks have been made, many difficult routes have been laid on many of the peaks. Tourists covered all the ridges of the region with passes, but the zone of mountaineering interests is mainly concentrated in the Tengritag, Kokshaaltau, Meridional ridges, rare ascents today are made in the Sarydzhaz and Inylchek ridges. I will try to paint these ridges a little, giving an assessment of the difficult passes, peaks, moving from north to south.

Entrances, approaches, decoration

Unfortunately, it is not yet possible to conduct "through" campaigns - starting in Kyrgyzstan and ending in China, or vice versa. You can only jump a little in one direction or another through a couple of passes. Therefore, for the time being, these parts of the regions should be considered separately.

From Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, there are two highways for entering the region. From Kyrgyzstan - through the city of Karakol (former Przhevalsk) along a decent road to the glaciers of Semenov, Mushketov, Yu. Inylchek (to the outpost of Maidaadyr), Kaindy. From Kazakhstan - through the district center Narynkol to the upper reaches of the river. Bayankol (the road ends at the Zharkulak mine), from where it is 12-15 km on foot to the Bayankol glaciers system. Mountain hikes basically begin and end at these points. But in the absence of special restrictions on funds, you can use a helicopter - for small groups passing (i.e. for replanting), for large groups - you can order and pay for a separate board. Today the situation has developed in such a way that the area is served only by Kyrgyz helicopters in the amount of 2 pieces. (I won’t be surprised if there will be one of them next year, because last season one burned down, but I really hope that the second one will be found). The flight is carried out from two points - Karkara (Kazakhstan, through Kazbek Valiev), Maidaadyr outpost (Inylchek river, Tien Shan Travel, Vladimir Biryukov). There are several more camps serving clients in South Inylchek, in addition to Valiev and Biryukov, there are three more. The first two plus one more are located at the confluence of Yu. Inylchek with the Zvezdochka glacier, two more are on the opposite side, under the slopes of Gorky settlement. In Northern Inylchek, only the camp of Kazbek Valiev now operates (there used to be two). But according to V. Biryukov, this summer the Kyrgyz camp (Tian-Shan-travel firm) will also start working in Northern Inylchek. Through any of these firms, you can call in the area, choosing more suitable prices. In different years I used the services of Kazbek Valiev, Dostuk-tracking company (Bishkek, Shchetnikov N.). In recent years, I have been using the services of the Tien Shan Travel company of Vladimir Biryukov, also because I have many friends there.

Depending on which method of arrival you use - through a company or on your own - transport prices will vary greatly. I don’t see the point of listing them here - you can see their prices through the company on their own websites, and I just don’t know the prices for self-hired transport - I haven’t used it for too long. As for the helicopter, I think these are more stable figures. Today, a helicopter hour in Kyrgyzstan costs $1,800, and a flight from Karkara or Maidaadyr costs $150 per person. When flying, for example, from Maidaadyr, you can scatter drops to 2-3 places in a flight hour and land at the beginning of the route (in 2001, using a helicopter, we brought drops to the South and North Inylchek, landed ourselves at the bottom of the Mushketov glacier , thus excluding traffic along river valleys from the route).

If we talk about the most common way of arrival today, this is a vehicle from Bishkek through Karakol to Maidaadyr, then by helicopter to South or North Inylchek, or on foot (then you can drive a little further by car, or you can hire a horse-drawn transport and use it to get almost to the Yu. Inylchek glacier). The second option is from Alma-Ata to Karkara, from where by helicopter to the same place - that is, to the south or north of Inylchek. Other places to start routes are visited less frequently. And ascents are mainly carried out from the listed camps (a rare exception, repeated more than once in recent years, is climbing the Marble Wall from the Bayankol glaciers).

You should probably know that to visit the area through any state, you need to register (if you enter / exit through different states, then in each of them) and passes to the border zone (so far, the expected complication of issuing passes has resulted in additional payment). All this is issued in different places (registration with the police, passes - with the border guards), so I prefer to use the services of companies.

On the Chinese side, things are somewhat different. In order to enter the area, you must obtain a military permit ($650 per group), a permit to visit the Tomur National Park (another $650) and insurance for all participants ($72/person). So far, today I know only one tour operator who undertakes to arrange all this. And of course, the payment for the operator's services will also be added here.

To enter the region for the first time, we used the then-traditional way of entering the Kashgar Mountains - Moscow-Bishkek-Osh (airplane) - Irkeshtam checkpoint (car) - Kashgar city (car) - Aksu city (train) - settlement. Talak (machine). This journey took 6 days. Back were selected in the same way, but kept within 4-5 days. For the second time, we went directly to China, Moscow-Urumqi-Aksu (airplane) - Talak (car). This option took us 2 days, and today is the best route to enter the area. But if we talk about a flight from Moscow, there is no direct flight to Urumqi now, so we have to fly with a transfer. From the nearest cities, planes fly to Urumqi from Novosibirsk, Alma-Ata, Bishkek. Therefore, you can get by plane from any of these cities. Probably, you can still calculate the option of visiting these cities by train, and then by plane. The route by train completely probably does not make sense, although it is theoretically possible. Maybe this option will someday become acceptable - there are persistent talks about the construction of a railway link from Kyrgyzstan to China (Kashgar). Given the speed with which the Chinese are building, I would not be surprised if such a road appears in a year or two after the decision is made. In the meantime, it would be good if the road through Irkeshtam were built - perhaps the drive through Kyrgyzstan, especially to the Kashgar mountains (Kongur - Muztag-Ata) would become quite convenient.

From the village of Talak, where the frontier post is located, you can still drive in jeeps in different directions - probably to the Temirsu glacier. The path known to us, used in all expeditions (both by the Chinese, and the Japanese, and by us), leads towards the Kokyardavan pass n / a (you can almost drive to the pass). Then a caravan of horses is organized (although the start is already possible on foot) and after 30-35 km along the valley of the river. Chontereksu can go to the tongue of the Chonteren glacier, where all the expeditions set up a base camp. The way on horseback can be covered in 1.5-2 days.

In the neighboring valley - Kichiktereksu - there is a coal mining plant. The valley itself is more extensive than Chontereksu, there are many small settlements. Having descended along a quite decent path to the plant, you can go further by car. By the way, the trail here is really good, but it is easy to lose it, which we did from time to time. In the upper reaches of the river (in a section of 10 kilometers), it often forks, and the chosen path may simply turn out to be a dead end (for example, to a summer camp). The main trail, at the same time, goes 300-400 meters up or down the slope, which is quite difficult to guess. Sometimes local residents helped us get back on the trail, for whom we seemed to act as a visiting zoo. In the river valley You can also visit Kichiktereks at the start of any hike.

We did not try any other check-in options. One of them is along the Muzart River, along which the road rises quite far, and you can reach approximately the level of the Tugbelchi glacier. Probably, there are other options for arrival, but other expeditions have yet to get acquainted with them. There are a lot of dirt roads in these places, only local residents know them quite well (a simple example is that our tour operator did not know anything about the coal mining plant and the road there - otherwise we would have immediately planned one of the places where the hike would end.

Tien Shan is a majestic mountain system located in the heart of Asia. One of the largest slopes in the world, with meadows filled with thousands of wild flowers, waterfalls, deserts and steppes located at the foot. All this creates an indescribable beauty and served as the name: in translation, it means "Heavenly Mountains". In order to understand where the Tien Shan mountains are located, you just need to look at the atlas: they pass through the territory of 5 countries of the eastern part of the continent: China, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan.

Facts and figures

The system of mountains stretches for as much as 2500 km, the position of which creates a unique composition of more than 30 peaks, many of which rise to the clouds no less than 6000 meters. The highest point is Mount Pobeda Peak - 7439 m, which took its place on the border of two countries: the Chinese state and the Kyrgyz state. Under the second place in height is Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m.), which separates China, the lands of Kazakhstan and the surroundings of Kyrgyzstan.

Location of the mountain system

The Tien Shan is a powerful alpine system of the planet, one of the largest on the planet, located in the central areas of Asia. The predominant part of the Tien Shan lies on the lands of modern Kyrgyzstan and China, but some mountain branches capture the territory of other countries: in Uzbekistan and in the expanses of Tajikistan, the southwestern ones lie, and the northern and remote territories of the west are located within the borders of Kazakhstan.

Tien Shan coordinate data based on geographic sources: 42 degrees and 1 minute north latitude and 80 degrees and 7 minutes east longitude.

Relief and geographical zoning

The chains of mountains are quite branched and have the names of the Inner and Eastern massifs, the Northern region, the ridges of the western Tien Shan, and the Central. Each region is branched into several mountain ranges.

All ridges are divided among themselves by intermountain deep canyons with charming picturesque landscapes and lakes.

The highest point among the Tien Shan mountains

Peak "Victory" is located on the lands of Kyrgyzstan, close to the cordon of China and belongs to the category of the highest points in the world (7439 meters). Presumably, for the first time tourists conquered this peak in 1938, and five years later, in honor of the victory over the Nazi invaders near Stalingrad, an expedition of climbers was sent to the mountain by the main leadership of the USSR. In 1995, two groups left to climb different routes. One of them from Kazakhstan, the second from Uzbekistan. Having risen to 6000 m, the first of them, due to bad weather conditions, was forced to stop climbing and start descending, only one of the 12 members of the group survived. Since that time, the mountains have developed a bad reputation, mostly daredevils from Russia or the CIS countries conquer them.

An interesting story about Zhang Cang, who, in a detachment of 100 people, first set out on the orders of Emperor Wu Di through the passes back in 138 BC. AD to meet the allies, but was captured, where he stayed for 10 years. Chance helped Zhang escape, and he carefully described his long journeys through the Northern Tien Shan and the lands of Asia, brought information to China, and the famous Great Silk Road was created along his steps, along which they began to export silk to the Roman Empire.

Geology and structure

The Tien Shan is part of the Ural-Mongolian (Ural-Okhotsk) folded geosynclinal belt. The mountain ranges are formed by igneous rocks, and the intermontane depressions are formed by sedimentary ones. The alpine relief is characterized by glaciations of various forms.

The formation of massifs that create the current high-mountain relief began in the Oligocene period, and mountain building gained the most activity in the Pliocene and Anthropogenic. The movement of tectonic plates, of a differentiated type, made the modern relief stepwise, with powerful erosion, with the emergence of the deepest valleys near rivers and the appearance of glacial masses.

Minerals

The following minerals have been found in the depths of the mountains: huge deposits of mercury ores and antimony, formations of cadmium and zinc, tin and tungsten. In the lower reaches in the vastness of modern Tajikistan there are gas and oil fields. Copper-profit and cobalt formations were also noticed. A gold-quartz formation was found in the Western environs of the Tien Shan massif. There are many industrial deposits of coal, marble, gypsum, limestone, as well as more than a hundred varieties of mineral water manifestations.

It is known that the first workings began in the Tien Shan 5 thousand years ago, as evidenced by the frescoes in caves and on the rocks. During the Neolithic period, the extraction of ocher, manganese ores and peroxide began. 2000 BC in the Bronze Age, copper ore, lead, zinc and tin were mined in the mountains, there are suggestions that the layers were rich in gold and silver, which was actively withdrawn at the same time. For construction, the development of antimony, clay, stone, sulfur and vitriol flourished, but during the raids of the warlike Mongols in the 13th century, the development fell into disrepair. Since that time, archaeologists have found a lot of pickaxes, all kinds of clay shovels, mutton skins used for washing gold.

Ancient and modern glaciation of the mountain system

The area of ​​glaciation is more than 7300 kV. km. and has 7700 glaciers, which are divided into three groups:

• Valley;
• hanging;
• Karovye.

The largest part of them is located in the center of the Tien Shan Range. It is there that the largest glacier Inylchek is located - the length of which is as much as 60 km. The formation of ice blocks in the foothills is continuous; neoplasms quickly form in place of the departed layers.

In the era when the ice age fell, the entire system of mountains was surrounded by a thick ball of ice, ramparts, moraines, a cirque, and ice lakes still testify to this.

An interesting fact is that all the rivers of Central Asia are fed by the Tien Shan glaciers. Descending from the hills in a strong stream, they form the largest river - the Naryn and its numerous tributaries. The flow of the river even made it possible to create a whole system of hydroelectric power stations on Naryn.

ice-free lake

The most full-flowing large lake - Issyk-Kul, was formed in a tectonic fault. Its deepest place is 668 m, which means it is the third in the world after Baikal and the Caspian Lake. The position and waters significantly influence the formation of the climate in the region. Like other endorheic reservoirs, it contains salinity, which, according to experts, will increase. The lake is young, recently formed, so a large amount of water simply did not have time to accumulate salts. The reservoir is never covered with an ice crust, unlike other lakes in the foothills of the Tien Shan, which are almost year-round bound by glaciers.

The fauna of the lake is poor, but there are species of commercial importance. There is also water transport, which runs from Rybachye station to the village. Przhevalsk.

In the summer heat, the azure-emerald clear waters of Issyk-Kul is a favorite vacation spot for many tourists.

Climate and natural conditions

The mountains will meet you with a sharp continental climate, characterized by strong differences in night and daytime temperatures, weak gusts of wind and dry air. Winters here are frosty and harsh, in summer it is hot in the valleys, and cool and comfortable on the peaks. Mostly the sun shines on the mountain slopes, and the average number of hours of its glow is about 27 thousand hours a year. For comparison, in the capital of Russia, this figure is lower and equals 1600 hours per year.

Basically, the formation of climate is influenced by the height difference of the Tien Shan ridges, lakes and features of the land and relief. Cloudiness and intensity of precipitation increase with altitude: the least amount of precipitation falls on the plains - about 200 mm per year, while on the middle mountains the value is already - 800 mm. The summer and spring period of time account for the greatest amount of snow and rain.

Everywhere the snow layer is not the same. In the north-west, it begins to form at a mark of 3600 m, in the east - 4000 m, and in the central regions - 4500 m. The western mountain ranges are mostly devoid of snowfall and are actively used by mountain dwellers for winter grazing.

Although during the warm period there is a high probability of avalanches coming down, this is the best time to travel to the Tien Shan mountains, since for most Europeans the harsh winter climate is difficult to endure.

Animals and plants

The fauna consists of inhabitants of the steppe and desert zones. The most common include goitered gazelle, ground squirrel, stomping hare, common jerboa, representative of the gerbil, and others. Of the reptiles, the most common are lizards, varieties of vipers and snakes. Flocks of eagles, melodic larks, bustards, partridges found their home in the expanses of the Tien Shan.

Boars, packs of wolves and foxes, representatives of bears and lynxes live in the regions of the middle mountains, nutcrackers and crossbills fly.

The geography of the inhabitants in the peak points of the mountains is changing: ermines, bright argali, populations of mountain goats and a very rare beautiful snow leopard live here. Of the birds - vultures, eagle families, jackdaws, larks.

Ducks, geese, swans, storks and other water birds are common only in the expanses of mountain lakes.

Mountain steppes on well-warmed slopes are densely covered with turf and feather grass interspersed with exposed stone talus. In summer, the growth of wormwood, thyme, ephedra begins. The Central Tien Shan is more diverse in its steppe areas, more than 30 species of herbs grow.

mountain tourism

Clean, almost alpine air, magnificent landscape and picturesque views attract fans of active sports recreation. Every professional mountaineer, an adherent of skiing, should visit the Tien Shan mountain system at least once. Diverse slopes have long been dotted with various resorts, where slopes are equipped for skiing and skiing for professionals and entry-level athletes, there is equipment rental and experienced instructors who will help you to ski or snowboard for the first time. The season starts in the north in early December and continues until the end of March. February is the best month for skiing.

In the highlands, where snow lies almost all year round, it is a paradise for mountaineers. For them, ascents to glacial areas and peaks are implemented, it is possible to drive up to high points by car or by air transport.

Take a look at the resorts "Oru-Sai", the snowy "Kashka-Suu", the high-mountainous "Orlovka" and the city of "Karakol" - they are the most popular.

Results

The Tien Shan Range is a unique mountain system of striking beauty, one of the highest and longest in the world, full of unusual flora and fauna, diverse mineral deposits. This is a popular place among tourists who are fond of outdoor activities and sports. Various resort towns and ski slopes are equipped on the slopes. The winter climate of the mountains is harsh, so travelers are advised to visit these places in spring and summer, when the formation of air masses is not so intense and sunny days prevail. The height of the Tien Shan mountains forms several tiers - foothill, middle and high-mountain, each of which has its own characteristics of climate, flora and fauna, landscape.