The current name of the nut. Oreshek Fortress (2)

Shlisselburg was founded in 1323, the name comes from it. Schlüsselburg - "key-city". It acquired city status in 1780. It is located on the left bank of the Neva near Lake Ladoga, 24 km east of St. Petersburg, 5 km north of Kirovsk. The main highlight is the fortress "Oreshek" :)

So, having passed along the Ladoga bridge over the Neva, I arrived in Shlisselburg.

Having parked on Cathedral Square, the first thing I saw was the temple complex. From left to right: the Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker (1770), the Cathedral of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary (1764) and the Kazan Chapel (1864).
The cathedral was closed in 1935 and operated during the war in 1941-1944. Again handed over to the diocese and restored since 1991. During the war years, the building was badly damaged: the roof of the cathedral and the spire of the bell tower were completely destroyed.

From Cathedral Square, along the Staraya Ladoga Canal, there is a boulevard opening with a bust of S. M. Kirov :)

Actually the Staroladoga Canal itself.

Bucket of the Staraya Ladoga Canal, buildings in the distance - the ruins of locks.

Monument to Count S.L. Raguzinsky.
A well-known public figure and adviser to Peter participated in the preparation of the Battle of Poltava - he called on the Balkan peoples to help Russia in the war with Turkey. Established relations with China. And St. Petersburg is grateful to Savva Raguzinsky for the statues of the Summer Garden. It was through his efforts, in particular, that the sculpture of Venus Tauride was delivered to the city.
It was in Shlisselburg that the first meeting of the Russian Emperor Peter the Great and his future adviser, Savva Vladislavich-Raguzinsky, took place.

An Admiralty anchor of the time of Peter the Great is installed on the shore. Raised from the bottom of the Neva River near the city of Shlisselberg. Installed October 13, 2005.

At the entrance to the Petrovsky (Staroladoga) Canal in 1957, a monument to Peter the Great was erected. This is the first monument erected to a monastic person under Soviet rule.

And this is a joke from local rivermen.

The geometric center of Shlisselburg: the intersection of the Staroladoga and Malonevsky canals. The city is small, only 12 thousand people.

The main purpose of the trip is the Oreshek fortress.
The Shlisselburg Fortress is a unique architectural and historical monument of the XIV-XX centuries.

The fortress was founded by Prince Yuri Danilovich of Novgorod, grandson of Alexander Nevsky, in 1323 on Orekhovy Island (hence the name) at the source of the Neva, served as an outpost on the border with Sweden.

As part of the Novgorod Land (1323-1468):
In 1333, the city and the fortress were transferred to the fatherland of the Lithuanian prince Narimunt, who placed his son Alexander here. At the same time, Oreshek becomes the capital of the specific Orekhovets principality. In 1348 Oreshek was taken by the Swedes. In 1349, after the fortress was recaptured from the Swedes, governor Jacob Khotov was planted here. Stone walls were built in 1352. In 1384, the son of Narimunt, Patrikey Narimuntovich, was invited to Novgorod and was received with great honors and received the city of Orekhov, the Korelsky town (Korelu), and also Luskoye (the village of Luzhskoye).

As part of the Moscow principality (1468-1612):
In the 15th century, after the submission of the Novgorod Republic to the Moscow Principality, the fortress was completely rebuilt and became the first multi-tower building in the north of Russia. During the Russian-Swedish wars, it was repeatedly attacked by Sweden. One of these attacks was the assault on Oreshok in 1582, the failure of which led to the conclusion of peace in the Livonian War. Later, until 1612, the fortress city of Oreshek was the center of the Orekhovsky district in the Vodskaya Pyatina of the Novgorod land.

As part of Sweden (1612-1702):
In September 1611, Swedish troops under the leadership of Delagardie laid siege to the fortress, and after a nine-month siege, in May 1612, the fortress was starved out. Of the 1300 defenders of the fortress, about 100 people remained alive, dying of hunger, but never surrendered. The Swedes called the fortress - Noteburg (Nut City). According to legend, the defenders of the fortress walled up the icon of the Kazan Mother of God in the hope that it would help the Russians return their land.

As part of Russia (since 1702):
During the Northern War, the Russian army under the command of Boris Sheremetev on September 27, 1702 laid siege to the fortress. On October 11, after a long bombardment, the Russian troops launched an assault that lasted 13 hours and won. Peter I personally participated in the siege as a scorer-captain. “It is true that this nut was very cruel, however, thank God, it was happily gnawed ... Our artillery did its job very miraculously,” Peter I wrote then to the Duma clerk Andrei Vinius. In honor of this event, a medal was cast with the inscription: "He was with the enemy for 90 years." At the same time, the fortress was renamed Shlisselburg - “the key-city”.
With the construction of Kronstadt in 1703, the fortress lost its military significance and was transformed into a political prison.

Unfortunately, the tent of the Golovin Tower burned down in the summer of 2010, according to the official version - from a lightning strike. So the view is not the same due to renovations.
We catch a boat and go!

The Oreshek Fortress got its name from the name of Orekhovy Island, on which it was founded in 1323 by Prince Yuri Danilovich, the grandson of Alexander Nevsky.

Sovereign (Gate) tower - the main entrance to the fortress.

If you look closely, the tower is crowned with a key: Schlisselburg in German Schlüsselburg - "key-city". The key to the passage along the Neva due to its strategic location.

Looking ahead, the question is: try to guess what was in the place of this apple tree. Test your intuition or clairvoyance :)
The answer will be further chronologically.

First, I took a tour of the entire fortress, left from the back side, and after that I started photographing. I can’t perceive the guide and take a photo at the same time :)

On the other side is the Neva, and here is Lake Ladoga.

On the failure in the wall, masonry from different times is visible.

View from the shore of the island to the Royal Tower. Built at the end of the 15th - beginning of the 14th century. In 1686 - 1697 it was rebuilt according to the project of the Swedish fortifier Eric Dahlberg.

Stones and water: view of the Koshkinsky fairway.

We continue to bypass the fortress along the perimeter: Menshikov and Sovereign bastions. On the right is the Neva, its right sleeve. In the distance - the Sovereign Tower.

Texture.

Water gate - the former exit of the internal channel to the Neva. According to them, one can estimate the height of the cultural layer - how much soil has grown over the centuries.

You can get inside the Oreshek fortress by passing over the moat on the drawbridge.

The bridge lifting mechanism is fully consistent with its old counterpart.

This design of the Gate Tower is not simple: if the guests were unwanted, the bars on the water and the exit fell down and then the conversation continued. It seems that those who were trapped were accommodating :)

Atmosphere, to give accommodating :)

Entering the fortress, we immediately climb to the right, up the stairs to the fortress walls.

From the top there is an excellent view of the ruins of the prison block No. 4. Yes, after Oreshek lost its military significance, the fortress began to be used as a prison. But first things first.

Since 1907 Oreshek served as the central hard labor prison. As part of the reconstruction, by 1911 the 4th building was completed, the ruins of which you can see in the photo. This is the largest building of the fortress, where 21 general and 27 single cells were arranged.

Decadence. Full, if converted to BW.

The ruins of the prison building №4. Read more about the prison below.

Bridge lifting mechanism. Everything is like in the old days.

Fortress walls.

Window-loopholes.

The door to the cell where the deposed Emperor John VI Antonovich was imprisoned.
He languished in complete solitude and gradually went mad. In 1764, already in the reign of Catherine the Great, they tried to free him. However, the operation ended in failure, the emperor was killed, and the organizer of the conspiracy, Mirovich, was executed.

Memorial complex in the Cathedral of the Forerunner.
To his right: two M-42 anti-tank guns, two ZIS-3 divisional guns, and a 21-K semi-automatic gun.

The stone cathedral was built in 1776 - 1779 according to the project of A.F. Vista. Rebuilt in 1826 - 1831 by the architect A.E. Shtaubert. The cathedral was closed in 1917 and was badly damaged during the Great Patriotic War. Now it is in a ruined state.

During the Great Patriotic War, the Oreshek fortress was subjected to severe attacks by the fascist army. From September 8, 1941 to January 18, 1943, a small garrison heroically held the defense of Oreshok for 500 days.

Despite the small number of our troops and very harsh conditions, the fortress was never taken. Thanks to the heroic defense of the Shlisselburg Fortress, the fascist invaders failed to close the blockade of Leningrad, and it was thanks to the "Oreshok" that the famous "Road of Life" existed, along which in winter it was possible to deliver food to the besieged northern capital on the ice of Lake Ladoga.

The memorial plaque immortalizes the oath of the Oreshek fortress defenders: “We, the soldiers of the Oreshek fortress, swear to defend it to the last. None of us will leave it under any circumstances. stand here to the end", as well as the names of 24 people who died and were buried here defenders of the fortress.

May 9, 1985 in the dilapidated Cathedral of the Nativity of St. John the Baptist, a memorial complex was opened for the defenders of the fortress. It was decided not to restore the ruins, but to preserve their twisted appearance, as a visual reminder of the horrors of war.

As I already wrote, with the construction of Kronstadt, the fortress lost its military significance and became a political prison. The first famous prisoner of the fortress was the sister of Peter I, Maria Alekseevna (1718-1721), and in 1725 Evdokia Lopukhina, his first wife, was imprisoned here. Emperor Ivan VI was kept in the fortress and in 1764 was killed by guards while trying to free him.
In 1798, the "Secret House" was built, in which many Decembrists became prisoners in 1826.
Since 1907 Oreshek served as a central hard labor prison (hard labor central). Reconstruction of old and construction of new buildings began. By 1911, the 4th building was completed - the largest building of the fortress, where 21 general and 27 single cells were arranged. Many famous political criminals (especially Narodniks and Social Revolutionaries) and terrorists, as well as many Poles, were kept in the fortress.

Moving on - the ruins of the prison building number 1.
Initially, the building was erected as a barracks for the soldiers of Peter I according to the project of 1715. Heavily destroyed during the Great Patriotic War.

The prisoners called this building "Menagerie": the wall of the building facing the fortress wall was deaf, without windows, the common cells were located along this wall on the I and II floors, from the corridor, the windows of which overlooked the fortress courtyard, the cells were separated by a metal grate from the floor up to the ceiling.

In the 19th century, a second prison building, the New Prison, was built on the territory of the Shlisselburg Fortress. For the People's Will.

Inside the building, each cell has a stand with information about the prisoner.

The conditions of detention in the New Prison were appalling. They were forbidden absolutely any activity, for many the view of a cramped prison cell, devoid of even furniture, was the last in life.

The courtyard of the citadel, you can see the gray building of the secret house - the Old Prison.
Initially, the prisoners of the Oreshek fortress were kept in damp and cold cellars. However, in 1798 a separate building was built for the prison - the Secret House (designed by the architect Paton). It became a place of imprisonment for political prisoners - Decembrists, Narodnaya Volya and those claiming the throne.
Mikhail Bakunin, Wilhelm Kuchelbecker, Ivan Pushchin, the Bestuzhev brothers, and many other famous historical figures spent the years of their lives in the small cells of this prison.

Here is the apple tree that I talked about at the very beginning. Planted on the spot where many people were executed, including Alexander Ulyanov - Lenin's brother, who attempted on Alexander III.
Now, in the light of the spring Sun, everything looks harmless and even cute, but 9 political prisoners were hanged right at this place:
Pakhomiy Andreyushkin 8.V.1887
Vasily Generalov 8.V.1887
Vasily Osipanov 8.V.1887
Alexander Ulyanov 8.V.1887
Pyotr Shevyrev 8.V.1887
Ippolit Myshkin 26.I.1885
Egor Minakov 21.IX.1884
Nikolai Rogachev 10.X.1884
Alexander Shtromberg 10.X.1884

Looking again at the wall near the Flag Tower...

We leave the Oreshek fortress on a boat together with all the museum staff - it turned out that I was the last visitor :)

Here is such an ancient and sad story at Nut.

NUT, a Russian fortress founded in 1323 on Orekhovy Island at the source of the Neva by Novgorod prince Yuri Danilovich, grandson of Alexander Nevsky. In the 14th and 16th centuries, Oreshek served as an outpost on the northwestern borders of Russia. In the Time of Troubles after ... ... encyclopedic Dictionary

Can mean: Nut is one of the names of the Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes). Nutlet (fruit) dry one-seeded fruit. Oreshek (fortress) a fortress in the Leningrad region and the name of the city of Shlisselburg until 1711. ... ... Wikipedia

Nutlet can mean: Nutlet (fruit) dry one-seeded fruit. Oreshek fortress in the Leningrad region and the name of the city of Shlisselburg until 1711. Nut is another name for wren. Die Hard (multi-valued phrase) ... ... Wikipedia

General view of the courtyard of the fortress Country ... Wikipedia

Oreshek, Russian fortress, main in 1323 [in 1661 1702 Noteburg (Swed. Noteborg), until 1944 Schlisselburg (German Schlüsselburg)]; see Petrokrepost...

NUT (SHLISSELBURG) AND BITTER PEPPER- 18th century The nut was bitterer than the pepper. The Oreshek fortress (under the Swedes of Noteburg) in October 1702, the soldiers of Peter I conquered from the Swedes, on the occasion of which the tsar said: This nut was very cruel, however, thank God, it was happily gnawed ... Dictionary of the Petersburger

Local n., modern. Shlisselburg. From walnut - tracing paper. Noteborg, Fin. Pähkinä(saari), other Russian Oreshek (often), also Nut Island (examples from Sjogren, Ges. Schr. 1, 604). This fortress was called in other Russian. Orzhovts language, 1313 (Sjogren ... Etymological Dictionary of the Russian Language by Max Fasmer

I Nutlet (nucula) is a one-seeded, non-opening fruit of an apocarpous fruit (for example, in a buttercup). Sometimes O. is also called other small one-seeded fruits (“paracarp O.” of fume, “lysicarp O.” of buckwheat), as well as borage erems and ... ... Great Soviet Encyclopedia

Oreshek Fortress General view of the courtyard of the fortress Country ... Wikipedia

Books

Petrokrepost, P. Ya. Kann, Yu. I. Korablev. The city on the banks of the Neva near Lake Ladoga owes its origin and name to the fortress, the walls of which still rise on an island in the middle of the river. This is an important monument of national history.…
Valaam, Kizhi, Solovki. Monastery-fortress. Ancient labyrinths. Petroglyphs. Timber skyscraper. Waterfall Kivach , Sintsov A., Fokin D., Stambulyan E.. WONDERFUL ISLAND OF VALAAM Silence… Holy silence. This is what every monastic soul seeks. In ancient times, the monks went to the desert, to the forest jungle, to the islands lost in the expanses of water. Before…

Let's remember which of the interesting sea forts we visited:

I don’t know whether the Shlisselburg Fortress can be considered a sea fort or not, but let’s add it to our collection and try to carefully examine it, having learned its eventful history. Moreover, this is our history, generously watered with the blood of our ancestors, and we must know it.

Shlisselburg Fortress (Oreshek) is one of the oldest architectural and historical monuments in the North-West of Russia. It is located on a small island (with an area of 200 x 300 m) at the source of the Neva from Lake Ladoga. The history of the fortress is closely connected with the struggle of the Russian people for the lands along the banks of the Neva and for access to the Baltic Sea.

For five centuries, the towers and walls of the fortress have changed a lot. In the 18th century, the lower parts of the walls were hidden with bastions and curtains, and the upper parts were lowered by three meters in 1816-1820. Four towers out of ten were dismantled to the ground. Great damage was caused to the fortress by shelling by German artillery during the Great Patriotic War. And yet, through all the destruction and loss, the unique appearance of the former stronghold clearly emerges.

In 1323, the Moscow prince Yuri Danilovich, the grandson of Alexander Nevsky, built a wooden fortress on Orekhovy Island, called Nut. It was an outpost of Veliky Novgorod on the northwestern border of Russia. He defended an important route for trade with the countries of Western Europe, which passed along the Neva to the Gulf of Finland.

Prince Yuri Danilovich

On August 12, 1323, the first peace treaty between Veliky Novgorod and Sweden was signed in the fortress - the Treaty of Orekhovo. The Novgorod Chronicle says this:

“In the summer of 6831 (1323 AD), Novgorodtsy went with Prince Yuri Danilovich to the Neva and put the city at the mouth of the Neva on Orekhovy Island; the same great ambassadors arrived from the Sveian king and ended the eternal peace with the prince and with the New City according to the old fee ... "

In 1333, the city and the fortress were transferred to the fatherland of the Lithuanian prince Narimunt, who placed his son Alexander here (Prince Alexander Narimuntovich of Orekhov). At the same time, Oreshek becomes the capital of the specific Orekhovets principality.

Dramatic events in the history of Novgorod Nut took place in 1348. The Swedish king Magnus Erikson undertook a campaign against Russia. Taking advantage of the absence of the commander of the Orekhovites, the Lithuanian prince Narimont, the Swedes captured the fortress in August 1348, but did not hold out there for long.

Narimunt lived more in Lithuania, and in 1338 he did not appear at the call of Novgorod to defend him against the Swedes and recalled his son Alexander. Later, in Oreshka, the Novgorod boyar-diplomat Kozma Tverdislavich was taken prisoner by the Swedes. In 1349, after the fortress was recaptured from the Swedes, governor Jacob Khotov was planted here.
On February 24, 1349, the Russians retook Oreshek, but during the battle the wooden fortress burned down.

Three years later, in 1352, in the same place, the Novgorodians built a new fortress, this time a stone one, the construction of which was supervised by the Novgorod archbishop Vasily. The fortress occupied the southeastern elevated part of the island. The fortress walls (length - 351 meters, height - 5-6 meters, width - about three meters) and three low rectangular towers were built of large boulders and limestone slabs.

In 1384, the son of Narimunt, Patrikei Narimuntovich (the ancestor of the princes of the Patrikeyevs), was invited to Novgorod and was received with great honors and received the city of Orekhov, the Korelsky town (Korelu), and also Luskoye (the village of Luzhskoye).

Along the western wall of the ancient Oreshok, 25 meters from it, crossing the island from north to south, there was a channel three meters wide (filled in at the beginning of the 18th century). The channel separated the fortress from the settlement, which occupied the western part of the island. In 1410, the settlement was surrounded by a wall that repeated the curves of the coastline. The courtyard of the fortress and the settlement were closely built up with one-story wooden houses, in which warriors, farmers and fishermen, merchants and artisans lived.

By the end of the 15th - beginning of the 16th century, firearms were invented and powerful artillery began to be used during the siege of fortresses. The walls and towers of Nut, built long before that, could not withstand the new military equipment. In order for fortifications to withstand prolonged shelling of enemy cannons, walls and towers began to be built higher, stronger and thicker.

In 1478 Veliky Novgorod lost its political independence and submitted to the Muscovite state. To protect the northwestern borders, it was necessary to reconstruct the Novgorod fortresses - Ladoga, Yam, Koporye, Oreshek. The old Orekhovskaya fortress was demolished almost to the foundation, and at the end of the 15th - beginning of the 16th century a new powerful stronghold rose on the island. Walls and towers were placed near the water itself, so as not to leave room for the enemy to land and use wall-beating machines and other weapons. The Swedish chronicler E. Tegel highly appreciated the defense capability of Nut. He wrote in 1555: "The castle cannot be shelled and taken by storm because of its powerful fortifications and the strong current of the river."

In plan, the fortress is an elongated polygon with seven towers: Golovina, Sovereign, Korolevskaya, Flagnaya, Golovkina, Menshikova and Bezymyannaya (the last two have not been preserved), the distance between them was about 80 meters. With the exception of the rectangular Sovereign Tower, the remaining towers of the fortress are round, their height is 14-16 meters, their thickness is 4.5, the diameter of the interior of the lower tier is 6-8. In the 16th century, the towers were crowned with high wooden tented roofs. Each had four floors (tiers), or, as they said in antiquity, battlefields. The lower tier of each tower was covered with a stone vault. The second, third and fourth tiers were separated from each other by wooden flooring and connected by stairs placed inside the walls.

The Sovereign Tower is one of the most interesting objects of the fortress. According to its structure, it belongs to the best examples of fortifications. In its first tier there is a passage to the fortress, curved at a right angle. He strengthened the defensive power of the tower and made it impossible to use rams. The passage was closed by gates in the western and southern walls and forged gratings - gers. One of them descended from the second tier of the tower, and the other from the battle course of the wall. The rise of the gers was carried out with the help of gates. The approach to the entrance arch was protected by a moat with a drawbridge thrown over it.

The Sovereign Tower was restored by restorers in 1983; it houses an exposition telling about this monument of medieval architecture. To the west of the Sovereign is the most powerful of the towers - Golovin, the thickness of its walls is 6 meters. The upper part of the tower is now occupied by an observation deck, which offers a magnificent panorama of the Neva banks and Lake Ladoga.

The total length of the walls of the stone Nut is 740 meters, the height is 12 meters, the thickness of the masonry at the sole is 4.5 meters. On top of the walls, a covered battle passage was arranged, which connected all the towers and enabled the defenders to quickly move to the most dangerous places. It was possible to climb three stone stairs located at different ends of the fortress to the battle course.

Plan and facade of the cathedral church of St. John the Baptist. Drawing. 1821.

Our days.

Clickable

Simultaneously with the construction of the fortress, a citadel was erected in the north-eastern corner - an inner fortress isolated from the main territory by walls 13-14 meters high and three towers: Svetlichnaya, Kolokolnaya and Mill. The loopholes of the towers of the citadel were aimed inside the fortress yard. Each of them had a specific purpose: Svetlichnaya protected the entrance to the citadel, in addition, next to it in the fortress wall there was a small room - a living room (hence the name of the tower). A message bell was installed on the Bell Tower, which was later replaced by a clock. There was a windmill on the Mill Tower at the beginning of the 18th century. Of the towers of the citadel, only Svetlichnaya has survived. In the event of an enemy breakthrough into the fortress, its defenders, being in the citadel, continued to hold the line. The citadel was separated from the rest of the fortress by a 12-meter canal, in which the water was running.

In the fortress wall adjacent to the Mill Tower, a hole was preserved through which water flowed from Lake Ladoga. On the other side, the canal was connected by a wide arch (“water gates” laid out in the thickness of the wall) to the right source of the Neva. The water gates were closed with a gersa. The channel, in addition to defensive functions, served as a harbor for ships. A wooden chain drawbridge was thrown across the canal, which was raised in moments of danger, and it closed the entrance to the citadel. The canal was filled up in 1882. The walls of the citadel had vaulted galleries for storing food and ammunition. The galleries were laid with stone in the 19th century. All the towers were connected by a fighting passage, to which a stone staircase led - "climb". A well was dug in the yard. In the eastern wall, near the Royal Tower, there was an emergency exit to Lake Ladoga, closed after the construction of the Secret House (Old Prison) in 1798. Thanks to a deeply thought-out and developed defense system, the Oreshka citadel occupies a special place in the history of the development of fortification architecture.

At present, the stairs and the combat passage between the towers of the Sovereign and Golovin have been restored. The walls and towers of Nut of the 16th century are made of limestone of different color shades; the oldest masonry has a brownish-violet color, bluish-gray tones are characteristic of later masonry; their combination is in harmony with the surrounding water expanse and creates a special flavor. The stone for the construction of Oreshok was mined in quarries on the Volkhov River.

The walls of Oreshok have repeatedly witnessed the unparalleled heroism of the Russian people. In 1555 and 1581, the Swedish troops stormed the fortress, but were forced to retreat. In May 1612, after a nine-month siege, they managed to capture Oreshek. Many defenders died from disease and starvation. Having conquered the fortress, the Swedes renamed it Noteburg. In 1686-1697 they completely rebuilt the Royal Tower according to the design of the Swedish engineer and fortifier Erik Dahlberg. This is the only capital structure created during the 90-year period of Swedish rule.

and five centuries the towers and walls of the fortress have changed a lot. In the 18th century, the lower parts of the walls were hidden with bastions and curtains, and the upper parts were lowered by three meters in 1816-1820. Four towers out of ten were dismantled to the ground. Great damage was caused to the fortress by shelling by German artillery during the Great Patriotic War. And yet, through all the destruction and loss, the unique appearance of the former stronghold clearly emerges.

In 1700, the Northern War began between Russia and Sweden for the return of the Russian lands occupied by the Swedes and for Russia's access to the Baltic Sea. Before Peter I was a difficult task: it was necessary to master Oreshok. His release ensured further successful military operations.

Clickable, The storming of the Noteburg fortress on October 11, 1702. A. E. Kotzebue, 1846.

At the beginning of the 18th century, the fortress of Noteburg was well fortified and completely defensible. In addition, the Swedes dominated Lake Ladoga, and the island position of the stronghold made mastering it especially difficult. The garrison, led by the commandant Lieutenant Colonel Gustav von Schlippenbach, numbered about 500 people and had 140 guns. Being protected by powerful fortress walls, he could put up stubborn resistance to the Russian troops.

On September 26, 1702, the Russian army under the command of Field Marshal B.P. Sheremetev appeared near Noteburg. The siege of the fortress began on 27 September. The Russian army consisted of 14 regiments (12,576 people), including the guards Semenovsky and Preobrazhensky. Peter I participated in the battle as a captain of the bombardment company of the Preobrazhensky Regiment.

Russian troops camped opposite the fortress on Preobrazhenskaya Gora, and batteries were installed on the left bank of the Neva: 12 mortars and 31 cannons. Then, under the supervision of Peter I, along the banks of the Neva, the soldiers dragged 50 boats through a three-verst forest clearing. At dawn on October 1, a thousand guardsmen of the Preobrazhensky and Semenovsky regiments crossed in boats to the right bank of the Neva and captured the Swedish fortifications located there. Two batteries were installed in the recaptured positions, each of which had two mortars and six guns.

With the help of boats, a floating bridge was built across the Neva to connect the Russian troops on the left and right banks. The fortress was surrounded. On October 1, a trumpeter was sent to her commandant with a proposal to surrender the fortress on a treaty. Schlippenbach replied that he could decide on this only with the permission of the Narva chief commandant, under whose command the Noteburg garrison was, and asked for a four-day delay. But this trick was not successful: Peter ordered the immediate bombardment of the fortress.

On October 1, 1702, at 4 pm, Russian artillery opened fire, and Noteburg disappeared in clouds of smoke, “bombs, grenades, bullets hovered over the fortress with destructive fire. Horror seized the besieged, but they did not lose courage, defending stubbornly and despising the disasters of a terrible siege ... ". The shelling continued continuously for 11 days until the assault itself. Wooden buildings caught fire in the fortress, the fire threatened to explode the gunpowder warehouse. In the fortress wall between the Golovin and Bezymyannaya towers, the Russians managed to break through three large, but highly located gaps.

The assault began at 2 am on October 11 and lasted 13 hours. Guardsmen crossed the island in boats and tried to climb the walls with the help of ladders, which turned out to be short. Their length was only enough to get to the gaps in the fortress wall. Squeezed on a narrow strip of land between the fortifications and the Neva, Russian soldiers and officers, led by Lieutenant Colonel of the Semenovsky Regiment M. M. Golitsyn, heroically withstood the crushing fire of the Swedish garrison and suffered significant losses. Peter I sent an officer with the order to retreat. Golitsyn answered the messenger: “Tell the tsar that now I am no longer his, but God’s,” and ordered the boats to be pushed away from the island, thus cutting off the path to retreat. The assault continued. When lieutenant A. D. Menshikov crossed over with a detachment of volunteers from the Preobrazhensky Regiment to help the Golitsyn detachment, the Swedes faltered. Commandant Schlippenbach at five o'clock in the afternoon ordered the drums to be struck, which meant the surrender of the fortress. “This nut was very cruel, however, thank God, it was happily gnawed,” Peter I wrote to his assistant A. A. Vinius. The victory went to the Russians at the cost of heavy losses. Over 500 Russian soldiers and officers died on the coastline of the island and 1,000 were injured. All participants in the assault were awarded special medals. The mass grave of those killed during the assault has been preserved in the fortress to this day.

On October 14, the Swedish garrison left Noteburg. The Swedes marched with a drumbeat and unfurled banners, the soldiers held bullets in their teeth as a sign that they had preserved military honor. They were left with personal weapons.

On the same day, Noteburg was solemnly renamed Shlisselburg - "Key City". On the Sovereign Tower, Peter I ordered to strengthen the key to the fortress in commemoration of the fact that its capture will serve as the beginning of further victories in the Northern War (1700-1721) and open the way to the Baltic Sea, which was 60 kilometers away. In memory of the conquest of Noteburg, a medal was stamped with the inscription: "The enemy had 90 years." Every year on October 11, the sovereign came to Shlisselburg to celebrate the victory.

Peter I attached great importance to the fortress conquered from the Swedes and ordered the construction of new fortifications - earthen bastions, which were lined with stone in the middle of the 18th century. Six bastions were built at the foot of the towers, some of them were named after the construction leaders: Golovin, Gosudarev, Menshikov, Golovkin. The bastions and curtain walls connecting them closed the lower parts of the fortress walls and towers.

In the XVIII century, a large construction was carried out in the fortress. In 1716-1728, a soldier's barracks was built near the northern wall according to the project of architects I. G. Ustinov and D. Trezzini. Outside, it adjoined a gallery with an open arcade about 6 meters high, in front of which a wide channel flowed. The height of the building was flush with the fortress wall, the shed roof was at the level of the battle course. The combination of a fortress wall with a barracks in Oreshka can be considered the beginning of the creation of a new, more advanced type of fortification, which was later carried out in the Peter and Paul Fortress. From the second half of the 18th century, the building began to be called Peter's "numbered" barracks, as some of the premises were turned into places of detention - "numbers". The prisoners of the barracks were princes M.V. and V.L. Dolgoruky and D.M. Golitsyn, members of the Supreme Privy Council, who tried to limit the autocratic power of Empress Anna Ioannovna, her favorite Duke of Courland E.I. Biron, Emperor Ivan VI Antonovich, Chechen sheikh Mansur, Georgian prince Okropir, progressive figures of Russian culture - writer F. V. Krechetov, journalist and publisher N. I. Novikov and others.

In 1716, the construction of a mint began near the southern fortress wall, according to the project of the architect Ustinov, after the completion of construction, the building was used as a storehouse. According to the project of the same architect, in 1718 a wooden house by A. D. Menshikov was built, in which in 1718-1721 the sister of Peter I, Maria Alekseevna, was imprisoned in the case of Tsarevich Alexei. Since 1721, the construction work in the Shlisselburg fortress was led by the architect D. Trezzini. Under him, the barracks were completed and a canal was laid near it, the height of the Bell Tower was increased, which ended with a twenty-meter spire, vaguely reminiscent of the spire of the Peter and Paul Cathedral. In 1722, the wooden palace of Peter I was built - the Sovereign's House. From 1725 to 1727, his captive was the first wife of Peter I, Evdokia Fedorovna Lopukhina, imprisoned by order of Catherine I.

At the end of the 18th century, the fortress lost its defensive significance. In the second half of the 19th - early 20th centuries, buildings were erected in the fortress yard, associated with the new appointment of the Shlisselburg fortress as a state prison. The first prison building in the citadel - the Secret House (Old Prison) - was completed by the architect P. Paton. It was a one-story building with ten single cells. The secret house became the place of imprisonment of the Decembrists: I.I. Pushchina, V.K. Kuchelbeker, brothers M. A., N. A., A. A. Bestuzhev, I. V. and A. V. Poggio and others. Tragic was the fate of the organizer of the Polish patriotic society to fight the Russian autocracy, V. Lukasinsky. He spent 37 years in solitary confinement, including 31 years in the Secret House and 6 years in the barracks.

Since 1884, the Shlisselburg Fortress has become a place of life imprisonment for the leaders of the revolutionary organization Narodnaya Volya. In the fortress yard, near the wall facing Lake Ladoga, in 1884 a prison building was built for forty prisoners. It was called the New Prison, as opposed to the Old - the former Secret House. The cells of the Old Prison were turned into punishment cells; P. I. Andreyushkin, V. D. Generalov, V. S. Osipanov, A. I. Ulyanov, P. Ya. Shevyrev spent their last days and hours here before the execution (1887), S. V. Balmashev (1902), 3. V. Konoplyannikova (1906) and others.

In August-October 1884, L. A. Volkenstein, I. N. Myshkin, N. A. Morozov, V. N. Figner and other Narodnaya Volya were delivered on barges from the Peter and Paul Fortress to Shlisselburg. Many of them were in prison for 18-20 years. The brutal regime of detention led the prisoners to death: they died from insanity, exhaustion, and consumption. In total, in 1884-1906, 68 people were imprisoned in the fortress, of which 15 were executed, 15 died of illness, 8 went crazy, 3 committed suicide. Now the Old and New Prisons are museums, single cells of the 18th-19th centuries have been restored. The exposition presents documents telling about the prisoners. Places of executions on the territory of the fortress are marked with memorial plaques.

In 1907, the construction of a new hard labor prison began in the fortress: the soldiers' barracks, which had existed since 1728, was rebuilt into a prison building (No. 1), which the prisoners called the "menagerie". This name was explained by the special arrangement of common cells, separated from the corridor by a solid iron grate from floor to ceiling.

The first prison is the Secret House built inside the citadel (inner fortress) at the end of the 18th century.

An old photo of the Secret House from the archives.

Decembrist prison cell in the Secret House

Camera before 1896.

Drawing of convict A.I. Sukhorukov - camera in 1912.

In 1907-1908, the Old Prison was rebuilt, a two-story building with 12 common cells (building No. 2) was erected on the same foundation. The new prison remained unchanged and became building No. 3.

In 1911, the construction of the largest building No. 4, designed for 500 prisoners, was completed. At the same time, about 1000 people could be imprisoned in the fortress. The prisoners of the fortress were representatives of many revolutionary parties in Russia: social democrats, socialist revolutionaries, anarchists, maximalists, participants in the revolution of 1905-1907 and others. Simultaneously with political prisoners, criminals were kept in Shlisselburg.

After the February Revolution of 1917, on February 28 and March 1, all the prisoners of the huge Shlisselburg prison were released. In 1925, the fortress was taken under state protection, and in 1928 a branch of the Leningrad Museum of the October Revolution was opened in it, which worked until the start of World War II.

On September 8, 1941, the Germans captured the city of Shlisselburg on the left bank of the Neva. The blockade of Leningrad began. The Oreshek fortress was on the front line of the Leningrad Front. For almost 500 days from September 8, 1941 to January 18, 1943, the garrison of 350 fighters staunchly defended itself. Despite numerous attempts made by the Nazi troops, they failed to cross to the right bank of the Neva.

The defense of Oreshok was led by the commandant of the fortress, Captain N.I. Chugunov and commissar V.A. Marulin. The garrison consisted of rifle units and the 409th naval artillery battery of the Baltic Fleet, commanded by P.N. Kochanenkov, the military commissar was A.G. Morozov. The fighters of the rifle company equipped firing points between the towers of Flagnaya, Golovkin and Golovin in the southern fortress wall facing Shlisselburg occupied by German troops. Loopholes were punched in the wall to install machine guns. Four 45 and two 76 mm artillery pieces took up combat positions in the battlements of the Royal Tower and on the bastion.

The garrison of the fortress was located in the lower tiers of the towers: in the Royal - the sailors of the 409th battery, in the towers of Golovkin, Golovin and Flagnaya - infantry units, in Svetlichnaya there was a medical center. The Nazis methodically bombarded the fortress from cannons and mortars around the clock. On some days, as, for example, on June 17, 1942, more than 1,000 shells and mines were rained down on the fortress. The walls and towers of Nut were badly damaged, all the buildings were destroyed. Stone and brick turned to dust. A dense brown cloud hung over the island all the time.

A permanent boat crossing between the island and the right bank of the Neva, where the units of the Soviet troops were located, provided the garrison with food and ammunition. Under enemy fire, the rowing team performed deadly work. As a symbol of the invincibility of the garrison, the red flag flew over the fortress, which is now kept in the Central Naval Museum. As a result of the brutal shelling of the fascist artillery, the garrison suffered significant losses in personnel. The list of wounded and killed soldiers includes 115 people.

Enemy shelling did not break the stamina of Oreshok's defenders. Among them were true heroes: fighters V.N. Kasatkin, S.A. Levchenko, V.M. Trankov, E.A. Ustinenkov, sailors N.V. Konyushkin, V.V. Konkov, K.L. other. No wonder the commissar of the garrison of the fortress V. A. Marulin titled his memoirs: “The stone collapsed, but the people stood ...”.

In January 1943, after the liberation of the city of Shlisselburg and the breaking of the blockade of Leningrad, the defense of the fortress was completed. Its defenders honorably fulfilled their duty.

After the Great Patriotic War, the dilapidated Shlisselburg Fortress, not being a museum, was protected as a historical monument, restoration work was carried out in it, and excursions were conducted. In 1965, the fortress became a branch of the Museum of the History of Leningrad, its scientific study began, and archaeological research began to be carried out.

In 1968-1969, Leningrad archaeologists, under the guidance of Doctor of Historical Sciences A.N. Kirpichnikov, found the remains of the walls of the 1352 fortress. A fragment of the northern wall and the gate tower was mothballed and became a valuable object of the museum exposition.

Archaeological excavations continued in the fortress for several years. Things found in the cultural layer of the XIV, XV, XVI centuries told about the life and occupations of the islanders. Archaeologists have unearthed five layers of wooden pavement decks. In residential buildings, they found a variety of household and household equipment: furniture parts, an ax with a whole ax handle, birch bark items, wooden and earthenware utensils, leather shoes, bronze rings, amber crosses. Many things (floats, weights, hooks, frames, oars, oarlocks) indicate that the population was engaged in navigation and fishing. A great success was the discovery of a men's felt hat of the 15th century.

In 1972, under the guidance of an experienced restorer, architect V. M. Savkov, a general plan for the restoration of the fortress was developed, which determined the value of each period in the 700-year history of Oreshok and the main directions of restoration. The artist-architect, Doctor of Arts I. D. Bilibin proposed a plan for museumification, in accordance with which museum expositions were created in the Old and New prisons, the Sovereign Tower. The memorial complex, opened on May 9, 1985, is dedicated to the defenders of Oreshok. Its authors are artist-architect I. D. Bilibin, sculptors Honored Artist of the RSFSR G. D. Yastrebenetsky and L. G. Dema, artist A. V. Bogdanov. Every year on May 9, on Victory Day, a solemn rally is held at the war memorial in the Oreshek fortress.

In 2002, a commemorative sign dedicated to the peace treaty of 1323 between Veliky Novgorod and Sweden was opened, created with the participation of the Consulate General of Sweden in St. Petersburg and the State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg. In 2002, in connection with the 300th anniversary of the victory of Peter's troops near Noteburg, the name "Nutlet" was given to a minor planet in the constellation Cetus, discovered by the astronomer of the Crimean Astrophysical Observatory L. V. Zhuravleva.

Founded by the Novgorodians, it belonged to the Principality of Moscow, which managed to be under the rule of the Swedes, but then again returned to its origins (since 1702 it again began to belong to Russia). What the walls of this fortress didn’t see, what kind of people they didn’t hide and didn’t “execute”.

History milestones

The fortress was founded by Yuri Danilovich (grandson of Alexander Nevsky) on an island called Orekhovy in 1323. The island got its name because of the numerous thickets of hazel (hazel) throughout its territory. Over time, under the protection of the fortress, a city was erected, which was called Schlisserburg. In the same year, an agreement on "perpetual peace" was concluded with the Swedes. From here begins the centuries-old history of the fortress.

When the Novgorod Republic began to belong to the Moscow Principality, the fortress was radically rebuilt and fortified. Several times the Swedes tried to take her, but in vain. The fortress had the most important strategic location - a major trade route passed through it to the Gulf of Finland, so the one who owned the citadel had the opportunity to control this route.

For almost 300 years, Oreshek belonged to Russia and served as an outpost on the Swedish border, but in 1612 the Swedes managed to take the fortress, and then by starvation (the siege lasted almost 9 months). Of the 1300 people who stood on the defensive, only 100 survived - weakened, starving, but not broken in spirit.

It was then that Oreshek became Noteburg (literal translation - Nut City). There is a legend that the remaining defenders walled up the icon of the Kazan Mother of God in one of the fortress walls - it was a symbol of faith that sooner or later this land would return under the control of the Russians.

And so it happened - in 1702 the fortress was recaptured by Peter I. The assault lasted almost 13 hours. Despite the fact that the Swedes had an advantage in military strength and Peter the Great gave the command to retreat, Prince Golitsyn disobeyed him and, at the cost of numerous losses, the fortress was taken.

From that moment on, the name was changed to Schlisserburg, which meant “key-city” (the symbol of the fortress was the key, which is erected on the Sovereign Tower to this day). From that moment on, the road to the mouth of the Neva and the construction of the great St. Petersburg was opened.

At the end of the 18th century the strategic importance of the fortress was lost, and it turned into a political prison, where especially dangerous criminals and dissidents were kept in custody, and in the 19-20 centuries. was completely turned into a penitentiary.

The walls of the fortress "remember" such personalities as Maria Alekseevna (sister of Peter I) and Evdokia Lopukhina (his first wife); John VI Antonovich; Ivan Pushchin, brothers Bestuzhev and Kuchelbecker; Alexander Ulyanov (brother of V. Lenin) and many others.

The fortress played a special role during the Second World War, when for almost two years (500 days) the soldiers of the NKVD and the Baltic Fleet defended Shlisselburg from the Nazis, covering the so-called "Road of Life", along which people were taken out of the besieged Leningrad.

architectural features Fortress "Oreshek"

The size of the island on which the fortress is located is relatively small - only 200 * 300 meters. It was originally built from earth and wood. In 1349 there was a fire that destroyed literally all the buildings. After that, it was decided to replace the stone walls (up to 6 m high, more than 350 m long) and 3 not very high rectangular towers.

The complete reconstruction of the fortress was carried out in 1478, when it passed into the possession of the Moscow principality. New fortifications were erected right at the very edge of the water, which made it impossible for the enemy to land on the shore and use battering rams.

In 1555, one of the Swedish chroniclers wrote that it was impossible to get close to the fortress because of the strong current of the river in that place and powerful drive fortifications.

In its shape, the citadel resembles an elongated polygon, the walls of which are connected by 7 towers along the perimeter: Flagnaya and Golovkin, Golovin (or Naugolnaya), Menshikovaya and Sovereign (originally Gateway), Nameless (formerly Podvalnaya) and Royal.

6 towers were round, height up to 16 m, width - up to 4.5 m, the Sovereign - square. There were 3 more towers-citadels: Mill, Clock (or Bell) and Svetlichnaya. Only 6 out of 10 towers have survived to this day.

The Sovereign Tower is one of the most interesting buildings of the fortress. The entrance to it was located in such a way that it was impossible to use a ram, but at the same time the defenders could easily fire at the opponents.

After the complete reconstruction of the fortress, the total length of the walls was more than 700 m, and the height increased to 12 m. The thickness of the base was increased to 4.5 m.

Now the territory of the fortress is a historical and cultural monument open to the public. On its territory there is a mass grave of fallen defenders since the time of its capture by Peter I. Many buildings are destroyed, reflecting the echoes of many military battles, especially during the Second World War, when the fortress was shelled almost back to back, but was not surrendered to the Nazis. It is impossible not to visit, being near its facilities.

I am very delighted with this suburb, now I will advise everyone to go here first of all. It's close enough, by the way. About 40 km from St. Petersburg. From public transport to Shlisselburg, there seems to be a bus from Dybenko metro station.

You have to get to the fortress by boat. Cost in the region of 250 r round trip normal adults. Children / pensions are slightly cheaper.

The pier is not difficult to find, but not quite banal either.
You enter the city along the main road, it is important to follow the main road at the crossroads, you need to turn left onto the bridge in one place, do not go straight along the canal. Come to the square near the church

There are actually two churches in the photo. The destroyed Cathedral of the Annunciation of the Most Holy Theotokos, but it has been operating since 91. And the wooden church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker.

We first drove past and went somewhere far away to the private sector, there are some canals along Ladoga, original and unlike ordinary cities. As I later realized, we didn’t get to the city beach a bit.

So park with guns

There is still such a Lenin standing there, looking like a naval general. Photo netuti

After passing through the square, we go out to the pier.

View of the city from the pier

Shlisselburg, who does not know, is located at the place where the Neva flows from Ladoga. The town is tiny (15 thousand people). Until 92 it was called Petrokrepost. The railway station seems to be called that now. In Soviet times, apparently, an industrial town, the remains of this are visible now: factory buildings, pipes, shipyards.

We approached the pier, and the boat was already leaving, only they were waiting for us. There is no photo of him, but something like excursions go along the Neva. We didn’t get any seats upstairs, only downstairs

Filmed from a boat: Shlisselburg boys dive into the Neva

The boat ride takes about 10 minutes, and then half the time it accelerates, half the moorings.

You also need to buy tickets to the fortress, somehow inexpensively, either 100 or 50 r, benefits. The ticket price includes an excursion. We had to wait about 25 minutes, while we went to the fortress. The gate tower, square, the entrance to the fortress at 90 degrees, I listened to that audio tour, it seems that it is typical for our fortresses. In Koporye, it seems the same, it is not clear now how to check, it seems that they closed it for tourists.

We walk around the fortress

We went through other passages to Ladoga

Sea of Ladoga. Do you know, yes, that Ladoga is the largest freshwater lake in Europe? "Great Lake Nevo"

Then it was time for the tour and we returned to the gate tower. I won’t tell you the whole tour, I recommend visiting it yourself.

Briefly about the fortress: founded in 1323, from 1612 to 1702 belonged to the Swedes. name from Nut Island. This is, in fact, the third fortress on this site, the first wooden, the second was smaller, something remained of it. But these walls in the photo, of course, are not the 14th century, but later. I won't tell you the date.

restored piece

Here is a plan of the fortress for clarity

Former barracks, not yet reconstructed

Excavations in the Oreshek fortress were carried out by a detachment of the Leningrad archaeological expedition of the LOIA of the USSR Academy of Sciences under the leadership of A. N. Kirpichnikov in 1968-1970 and then continued in 1971-75. Archaeologists have explored about 2000 sq. m. of the cultural layer, the remains of the Novgorod stone fortress of 1352 were discovered, the remains of the township wall of 1410 were discovered and partially investigated, and the date of construction of the fortress of the Moscow era was specified - the beginning of the 16th century

here it is - the old fortress

here is a stone next to it

In the center of the fortress there is a memorial - a monument to the defenders of the fortress during the Great Patriotic War in the ruined temple.

The memorial impressed me very much, as you can understand from the number of photos. Made very powerful. Indeed, during the Great Patriotic War, very strong battles were fought here.
In 1941-1943. for 500 days, a small garrison of soldiers of the 1st division of the NKVD troops and sailors of the 409th marine battery of the Baltic Fleet defended the fortress from German troops who failed to cross to the right bank of the Neva, close the blockade of Leningrad and cut the road of life

The excursion went further to the prison, but with the children I could not listen, I only took a few pictures. The Shlisselburg Fortress was the main political prison, and it was here that people were executed. For example, A. Ulyanova.

The excursion to the fortress took a lot of time, my husband stayed with them, meanwhile my children and I moved to the citadel - a fortress within a fortress.