What do you imagine when you hear the word "resort"? Definitely sea, beaches, palms, sun, tanned beautiful people and myself in a sun lounger, sipping a tropical cocktail. There is a great way to break this stereotype. Rest in the resorts of South Ossetia will help in this. For the uninitiated South Ossetia is associated mainly with the political events that have unfolded in this territory over the past decade. Meanwhile, if you ignore these memories, you can do a lot amazing discoveries about this unique corner of the Earth.

Peculiarities. South Ossetia is amazing mountains, picturesque gorges, fresh air and crystal springs. Here is a wonderful climate, generous and fertile land. Holidays in this small republic will bring travelers not only new experiences, but will also significantly improve their health: there are many sources of mineral water in this amazing region! There are all conditions for those who prefer active holidays in the mountains, all year round could conquer the ancients Mountain peaks and master a variety of ski slopes.

General information. The partially recognized state of South Ossetia is located in the Transcaucasus and occupies an area of ​​3,900 square kilometers. km. The population is approximately 72 thousand people. Official languages: Ossetian, Russian, Georgian. Currency - Russian ruble (RUB). 100 USD = $2.80. Timezone UTC+4, the local time coincides with Moscow. Mains voltage 220 V at 50 Hz, socket type C. Country telephone code +79971, +79976, +799744, +7995344.


Climate. The climate of South Ossetia is influenced by many factors, first of all, it is a high-mountainous relief, the Main Caucasian Range protects this area from severe cold. In the south of the republic there is a steppe dry climate with hot summers and cool winters, summer temperature fluctuates around +22..+25 degrees, and in winter it stays around +1 degree. As the elevation increases, summers become shorter and cooler, while winters become longer with abundant snow cover. In areas at an altitude of 2000-2200 m, the climate is moderately humid with temperatures of -1..-8 degrees in January and +13..+20 degrees in July. In the area at an altitude of 2200-3000 m, the climate becomes more humid, and the air temperature drops to -8..-14 degrees in January and +3..+5 degrees in July. In the highlands at an altitude of 3000-3600 m, the climate of glaciers and eternal snows reigns. Depending on the area and the purpose of the trip, you need to choose the most suitable period for travel.

How to get there. The republic as an independent state was recognized only by a few member countries of the UN, and the majority considers South Ossetia a part of Georgia. The border with Georgia is closed, an attempt to pass through it is not recommended in order to avoid serious consequences, up to imprisonment. The territory of South Ossetia can only be reached from Russia. There are no airports in South Ossetia, the nearest one is in the city of Vladikavkaz. Buses run from Vladikavkaz to Tskhinvali several times a day, you can take a taxi. Rail service is currently suspended. You can get to South Ossetia by car along the Transcaucasian highway from the territory of Russia.

Transport. To move within the country, you can use buses or taxis.

Cities of South Ossetia
Tskhinvali is the capital of South Ossetia

The most interesting in South Ossetia

In the capital Tskhinvali there are very interesting sights, unique architectural monuments - the two-hundred-century church of St. George, the Church of the Assumption of the Mother of God, the Kviratskhovel Church.

Those who prefer to combine a vacation with the opportunity to receive a course of medical wellness procedures should definitely visit at least one of the South Ossetian hydropathic centers - Nagutni, K'odibyn, Lese. In these balnearies, tourists will be accommodated in comfortable rooms, will have the opportunity to take baths with mineral water undergo preventive treatment. All this takes place among picturesque forests and mountain gorges, peace and quiet, away from noisy resorts and their endless bustle.

For lovers of hiking, a trip through the picturesque Ksani Gorge will bring great pleasure. The Ksani Gorge is a magical place that fills tourists with an inspiring feeling of strength and freedom thanks to the healing air and magnificent landscapes.

On the territory of South Ossetia there is a huge number of archaeological sites: cave sites, burial mounds, settlements of the legendary tsarciats, sites of ancient Kobants, etc. Basically, all of them are located in the high-mountainous Dzau region, have good transport accessibility, and are provided with places to stay for researchers.

Important for tourists when deciding to relax in one of the resorts of South Ossetia is without visa regime to cross the border with the republic. In addition, the cost of recreation here is significantly lower than in the Crimea, Turkey and, especially, than in Europe. A nice addition is the absence of a language barrier, since local population speaks Russian well. Rest in this area is comfortable, including thanks to a single European part Russian time zone - in South Ossetia Moscow time.

Thanks to the South Ossetian resorts, you can not go to distant lands for the exotic, not to look for balneological resorts where you have to adapt to a different time zone, and not to incur huge expenses to go skiing from the mountain slopes. All this is available to tourists in hospitable South Ossetia.

Kitchen. Ossetian cuisine has traditionally developed under the influence of the ancestors of the Ossetians - the Alans, who led a nomadic lifestyle. The basis of the cuisine is boiled meat served in sour cream sauce, shish kebab is also popular, pies with various fillings are always present on every Ossetian table. Widespread fame got Ossetian cheese and local beer.

Shopping. Previously, there was an acute question: what to bring from South Ossetia? Since souvenirs were not sold here at all. Today in specialized stores you can buy a variety of products of a national character: dolls in national costumes, silver key rings with the image of Uastyrdzhi, wood and ceramics with Ossetian ornaments. There are more expensive memorabilia - paintings by Ossetian artists, richly decorated daggers and blades, jewelry. You can also buy discs with recordings of musical groups and more familiar souvenirs with Ossetian symbols: mugs, caps, T-shirts, plates, etc.

Residents of Vladikavkaz, who decided to visit their relatives in South Ossetia, are now not allowed to leave their homes without a passport. Will have to go back.

The border near the Roki tunnel appeared recently, and many are still not used to this innovation.

“The road has become longer by an hour,” says Dmitry Serebryakov, a resident of Vladikavkaz. There is always a queue at customs.

Unlike all other borders of Russia, here is one-sided control. Documents are checked only Russian side. Here, under the surveillance cameras, there are folding tables. Women from neighboring villages sell tea, coffee, sweets and hot cakes.

“The border guards allow us to use their electricity,” say small business representatives. For this we treat them with tea and sweets. Of course, we don't take money.

To get to South Ossetia, you do not need a passport and insurance. A Russian or South Ossetian passport is enough. In general, getting into a neighboring country is easy, unless, of course, you are on the federal or international wanted list.

Roki tunnel

A huge line of cars is gathering near the Roki tunnel, cut through the rock.

“He appeared back in the late 70s of the last century,” says Dmitry Serebryakov. - But after the collapse of the USSR, it was not repaired. In summer, condensate collects here all the time, it rains, in winter everything freezes - and the international track turns into a deadly skating rink. In 2008, tanks passed through the tunnel, and the road inside the rock finally broke. Up to a hundred accidents occurred in a day on a four-kilometer stretch!

Now the main tunnel is under reconstruction. The Russian side finances the repair. In the meantime, cars cross the border through an additional.

“It is one-sided,” the customs officers explain. - Half an hour the cars go to South Ossetia - the next half an hour to Russia. Hundreds of cars pile up at the border in the morning and evening. But no one arranges strikes - there is no other way anyway.

Live smuggling

In the small republic of South Ossetia, no one closes their cars.

“This is a waste of time,” says Tskhinvali resident, reserve officer Alexander Javakhishvili. - I lost my keys a year ago, but I didn’t order new ones. We in South Ossetia hardly steal at all, and no one is interested in cars at all. At least for the last five years since South Ossetia gained independence. Stealing cars in the republic is a pointless occupation. Before the war with Georgia, when the borders were open, it was possible to steal through the city of Gori. Or to Russia - because there was no customs. Now the circle is closed: the border with Georgia is locked; to get to Russia, you need to go through customs. Of course, you can steal a car and drive it into the mountains. But why? Almost all of us are relatives among themselves, in three days the theft will be revealed.

There is only one border crossing between Russia and South Ossetia. But the locals know other ways. True, there are no roads.

– And how much can you carry through the mountains? Products can deteriorate, herbs are unprofitable, in Russia they will have to be greatly overpriced. Some daredevils smuggle livestock. It doesn't say where he grew up. Moreover, the ram will never admit what country it is from. And in Russia, South Ossetian lamb is highly valued. We have better ecology. I know that in some restaurants in Vladikavkaz, kebabs from South Ossetian lamb are much more expensive than from local ones.

By the way, during the entire existence of the Russian-South Ossetian border, not a single criminal case has been opened against the shepherds.

Facts:

In addition to Russia, South Ossetia was recognized by Nicaragua, Nauru, Venezuela and Tuvalu.

South Ossetia is still not on the world maps. The city of Tskhinvali and its environs are "located" on the territory of Georgia.

The young republic does not have its own currency. In South Ossetia, they pay in Russian rubles. But it has its own flag and coat of arms. The Ossetian police have their own uniform. True, in the short term, the leadership of South Ossetia plans to rename the police into the police - as in Russia.

According to official data, the population of South Ossetia is 65 thousand people. However, one quarter of citizens live and work abroad, usually in the nearest Russian city of Vladikavkaz.

South Ossetian passport is of no interest to anyone

South Ossetian and Russian passports look like twins.

“Nevertheless, in Russia they won’t hire anyone with such a document,” says South Ossetian Lali Bolataeva. - Every resident of South Ossetia tries to get a Russian passport. Previously, everyone went to Vladikavkaz, registered with friends or relatives and received documents. Now we have a Russian embassy - and getting a Russian passport has become easier. At first, everyone makes it so that it just exists. Then they start looking for work in Russia, leave to work and as a result stay forever.

Independence Day. Fifth Anniversary

- On August 26, all the men of South Ossetia will get machine guns to give a winning burst into the air, - says Vadim Gabaraev, a resident of Tskhinvali. - There are weapons in almost all houses. True, it is forbidden to shoot in the republic. But on Independence Day they promised to allow it.

In a few days South Ossetia will celebrate the 5th anniversary of the republic's independence. Ossetian pies will be baked in all houses. In the morning, people will go to the cemetery to commemorate those who died during the war, and in the evening they will celebrate the anniversary of independence.

- It just so happened that we always have this holiday with tears in our eyes. We became independent, first of all from Georgia. Every Ossetian deep down wants our republic to become part of Russia. Whether this will happen or not, no one knows yet.

For the sake of independence, thousands of our people laid down their lives. Therefore, we start this day with a cemetery. And in the evening we go out to celebrate.

South and North. Southerners speak Georgian among themselves

In the Russian border Vladikavkaz, South Ossetians are disliked.

“This city has always been multinational,” says Svetlana Pukhaeva. – But the majority have always been North Ossetians and Russians. In the 90s, when the conflicts between Georgia and South Ossetia began, many residents of Tskhinval moved to Vladikavkaz. They were accepted and helped. But they never could become family to us.

In Vladikavkaz, people who arrived from Tskhinval are called southerners.

“They are arrogant and intrusive,” says Sergey, a taxi driver from Vladikavkaz. – Here we are, northerners, working for the future. We never deceive a client. And why? So that he will contact us again next time. And they just want to hit the jackpot. If you were charged twice more money, then most likely you got into a car with a southerner.

In Vladikavkaz, after the appearance of the border between Russia and South Ossetia, Georgian speech began to be heard more often.

“North Ossetians speak Russian and Ossetian,” Svetlana explains. - And the southerners - in Ossetian and Georgian, since many learned it at school. And when they don't want the northerners to understand them, they switch to Georgian.

There are more and more representatives of South Ossetia in Vladikavkaz every month. There is little work in and around Tskhinvali, and if there is, it is paid much worse than at home.– Metro

What do you imagine when you hear the word "resort"? Surely the sea, beaches, palm trees, sun, tanned beautiful people and yourself in a sun lounger sipping a tropical cocktail. There is a great way to break this stereotype. Will help in this vacation in the resorts South Ossetia. For an uninitiated person, South Ossetia is associated mainly with the political events that have unfolded in this territory over the past decade. Meanwhile, if we ignore these memories, we can make many amazing discoveries about this unique corner of the Earth.

Peculiarities

South Ossetia is delightful mountains, picturesque gorges, clean air and crystal springs. Here is a wonderful climate, generous and fertile land. Holidays in this small republic will bring travelers not only new experiences, but will also significantly improve their health: there are many sources of mineral water in this amazing region! There are all conditions for those who prefer active holidays in the mountains to conquer ancient mountain peaks and master various ski slopes all year round.

general information

The partially recognized state of South Ossetia is located in the Transcaucasus and occupies an area of ​​3,900 square kilometers. km. The population is approximately 72 thousand people. Official languages: Ossetian, Russian, Georgian. Currency - Russian ruble (RUB). 100 RUB = $RUB:USD:100:2. Time zone UTC + 4, local time ahead of Moscow by 1 hour. Mains voltage 220 V at 50 Hz, C. Telephone country code +79971, +79976, +799744, +7995344.

A brief excursion into history

In the Soviet Union, South Ossetia was an autonomous region of the Georgian Republic. In the late 1980s and early 90s, the Soviet Union was undermined by nationalist emotions among the peoples, and the South Ossetians reoriented towards merging with North Ossetia, closer to Russia. The first hostilities against the background of Georgia's non-recognition of the independence of the Ossetians took place in early 1991, and then in 2003 also in Abkhazia, where a similar post-Soviet history. In 2008, after the intervention of the Russian army in the conflict, South Ossetia still remains a free unrecognized region.

Climate

The climate of South Ossetia is influenced by many factors, first of all, it is a high-mountain relief, the Main Caucasian Range protects this area from severe cold. In the south of the republic there is a steppe dry climate with hot summers and cool winters, summer temperature fluctuates around +22..+25 degrees, and in winter it stays around +1 degrees. As the elevation increases, summers become shorter and cooler, while winters become longer with abundant snow cover. In areas at an altitude of 2000-2200 m, the climate is moderately humid with temperatures of -1..-8 degrees in January and +13..+20 degrees in July. In the area at an altitude of 2200-3000 m, the climate becomes more humid, and the air temperature drops to -8..-14 degrees in January and +3..+5 degrees in July. In the highlands at an altitude of 3000-3600 m, the climate of glaciers and eternal snows reigns. Depending on the location and the purpose of the trip, it is necessary to choose the most suitable period for the trip.

How to get there

The republic as an independent state was recognized only by a few member countries of the UN, and the majority considers South Ossetia a part of Georgia. The border with Georgia is closed, an attempt to pass through it is not recommended in order to avoid serious consequences, up to imprisonment. You can only get into the territory of South Ossetia from. There are no airports in South Ossetia, the nearest one is in the city of Vladikavkaz. Buses run from Vladikavkaz to Tskhinvali several times a day, you can take a taxi. Rail service is currently suspended. You can get to South Ossetia by car along the Transcaucasian highway from the territory of Russia.

Transport

To move within the country, you can use buses or taxis.

Cities and resorts

In the capital Tskhinvali there are very interesting sights, unique architectural monuments - a bicentennial church of saint george, Church of the Assumption of Our Lady, Kviratskhovelskaya church.

Those who prefer to combine a vacation with the opportunity to receive a course of medical wellness procedures should definitely visit at least one of the South Ossetian balnearies - "Bug", "Kodibyn", "Forest". In these balnearies, tourists will be accommodated in comfortable rooms, will have the opportunity to take baths with mineral water, and will undergo a course of preventive treatment. All this takes place among picturesque forests and mountain gorges, peace and quiet, away from noisy resorts and their endless bustle.

For hikers, it will be a great pleasure to travel through the picturesque Ksani gorge. Ksani Gorge is a magical place that fills tourists with an inspiring feeling of strength and freedom thanks to the healing air and magnificent landscapes.

On the territory of South Ossetia there is a huge number of archaeological sites: cave sites, burial mounds, settlements of the legendary tsarciats, sites of ancient Kobants, etc. Basically, they are all located in the high mountain Dzau district, have good transport accessibility, are provided with accommodation for researchers.

Important for tourists when deciding to relax in one of the resorts of South Ossetia is a visa-free regime for crossing the border with the republic. In addition, the cost of recreation here is significantly lower than in the Crimea, Turkey and, especially, than in Europe. A nice addition is the absence of a language barrier, since the local population is fluent in Russian. Rest in this area is comfortable, including due to the same time zone with the European part of Russia - Moscow time in South Ossetia.

Thanks to the South Ossetian resorts, you can avoid traveling to distant lands for exotic, not looking for balneological resorts where you have to adapt to a different time zone, and not incurring huge expenses to go skiing from the mountain slopes. All this is available to tourists in hospitable South Ossetia.

Kitchen

Ossetian cuisine has traditionally developed under the influence of the ancestors of the Ossetians - the Alans, who led a nomadic lifestyle. The basis of the cuisine is boiled meat served in sour cream sauce, shish kebab is also popular, pies with various fillings are always present on every Ossetian table. Ossetian cheese and local beer are widely known.

shopping

Previously, there was an acute question: what to bring from South Ossetia? Since souvenirs were not sold here at all. Today in specialized stores you can buy a variety of products of a national character: dolls in national costumes, silver key rings with the image of Uastyrdzhi, wood and ceramics with Ossetian ornaments. There are more expensive memorabilia - paintings by Ossetian artists, richly decorated daggers and blades, jewelry. You can also buy discs with recordings of musical groups and more familiar souvenirs with Ossetian symbols: mugs, caps, T-shirts, plates, etc.

Precautionary measures

At present, there are no fears to move around South Ossetia, and it is also quite easy for Russia to enter its territory. Military installations should not be filmed so as not to arouse suspicion on the part of the Ossetians.

Not everyone will decide on such a trip. There are no tourists here at all, and bloggers too.

I am in Tskhinval and I want to show how the city looks like after the war.

1 One of the most stunning places in the North Caucasus! I simply could not pass by the Dargava necropolis on the way from Vladikavkaz to Tskhinval. I flew on a copter, looked into the graves: I will soon make a separate report!

2 To get a car for the trip, I had to fly to Mineral water: in Nalchik and Vladikavkaz, car rentals simply do not exist, but in Minvody there is a Nissan dealer KlyuchAvto, who gave me an X-Trail for a week. And I will look at the resorts of the Caucasus on the way back, I will be in Pyatigorsk and Essentuki.

3 Almost nothing is known about South Ossetia. All the information is old, there are almost no photos, you don’t even understand what to expect, starting from crossing the border. I'm telling.

4 First, the border itself is much closer than indicated on the map. First you leave Russia, you drive 15 kilometers, and only then there will be an Ossetian post. Probably the longest no man's land in the world.

5 You need to overcome the long Roki tunnel connecting North Ossetia with South Ossetia, drive for some more time ...

There are no queues at the border. There are not many people who want to go to Tskhinvali, but the border crossing is full-fledged, in terms of size and equipment the same as in Upper Lars, on the road to Tbilisi.

I was asked to take the car to the scanner, they take an x-ray of the entire car to find dangerous and prohibited goods hidden in the skin. It took five minutes. What follows is the standard procedure. Yes, the employee can see the car, inside and out, then on passport control.

The border guard was surprised that I was going to South Ossetia as a tourist and called a colleague. He escorted me to the customs house, where we spent the next ten minutes in an almost friendly conversation. Formally, I was “detained for interrogation”, but we talked adequately and calmly, they simply asked me what I was doing and why I was going there. I told how to eat, that I love to travel the world and visit unusual places, and Nissan is a test one, I will write about it. Oper took my phone number and left his so I could call if something happened. On this we parted, and I went on.

6 On the other hand, no one stopped at all, although there is a post there.

7 South Ossetia can only be reached from Russia. If there is an opportunity to travel to Abkhazia from both sides, then it will not work here. From the side of Tbilisi, everything is tightly closed, especially for foreign citizens.

8 Patriotism. Flag from old fences.

9 The road to Tskhinval is good, not busy. From the border to the city about an hour drive.

10 There are two hotels here. I settled in "Alan", he is terrible on the outside, but acceptable on the inside. Another hotel, "Iriston", is located in a beautiful Stalinist building, but the interiors there haven't changed since the thirties. I'll show you.

11 During the war, shells hit the building, it was restored as far as funds were sufficient.

12 The room is decent, but the corridors ... for all my travel experience I don’t remember such!

13 View from the window to the main square and stunning mountain caps in the background.

14 The most impressive of the city - Tskhinval is bright, not scary at all, and very Soviet. But you start to look closely, and you see the nuances. Here is the station building, which is right there, on the central square.

15 A beautiful, refurbished and utterly deserted waiting room.

16 There is a ticket office in one of the corners of the large hall. The girl buys a bus ticket there. The train doesn't move on.

17 It is still possible to get off at the platform, but the railway service was interrupted more than twenty years ago. Today there are not even rails and sleepers left. The station itself was converted into a bus station.

18 The streets are not wide, with good asphalt. Most often, without any markup. They don’t pay attention to signs either, and they even say that traffic cops don’t pay attention to such a trifle as “solid”. The main thing is not to disturb anyone. Even in South Ossetia they don’t wear seat belts. None. But they drive, in general, more cultured than in Georgia.

19 Nice to see sidewalks with tiles and ramps. But a sewer built to pour all the water over the heads of passers-by is an epic failure.

20 They park in two rows, on the sidewalks, on each other's heads. Like in Moscow seven years ago.

21 By the way, there is Yury Luzhkov Street here!

22 There are abandoned houses on the streets, well, where it doesn’t happen.

23 A pleasant park near the drama theater under construction, favorite place for walks of couples in love and mothers with strollers.

24 You can close your eyes to imperfections, in other parts of the city there is no such thing.

25 There is also a historical center in Tskhinvali. It is called the Jewish Quarter, although there are no Jews left there. And the condition of the streets here is very different.

26 The destruction is already visible here. Echo of war.

27 In the house destroyed by shells, there used to be a supermarket or “Children's World”.

28 They say about such roads “As if they were bombed”. Here - really bombed.

29 Nine years have passed, and little has changed. Only people are old.

30 The Jewish Quarter was once beautiful and cozy. Narrow streets, century-old houses with long balconies…

31 There could be hundreds of tourists wandering around here.

32 Look at the details of ancient architecture and be surprised.

33 Instead, death.

34 In such scenery, disaster films can be filmed. But people live in them.

35 Half of these houses are inhabited, even if outwardly they seem abandoned. They also live in the house from the main photo.

36 Sewer manholes are covered with iron sheets, and even then not everywhere.

37 It is striking that this is not a distant outskirts, but the very center of the city. Five to ten minutes walk from a beautiful park and main street.

38 In nine years, a generation of children who did not know war was born in South Ossetia. But they see its traces and consequences every day. What is the future of these guys and their city?

Tomorrow I will continue to explore Tskhinvali, and then I will go along mountainous areas. Don't switch!

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