Where is chess. Entertainment programs for children

Oh, it's good when dreams come true! And I wanted to go to Shakhmatovo for a very, very long time, because somewhere in these forest-fields, the ghost of the brilliant young Alexander Blok rides for me on a white horse with Poems about the Beautiful Lady in his head, not yet poured out on paper. And you can even imagine tender Lyubochka Mendeleeva somewhere on the paths of the park...
In fact, the estate was burned down by the peasants during the life of Blok, and the current house, as well as all the outbuildings, is a very recent reconstruction. But in Shakhmatovo it is simply surprisingly atmospheric and cozy. And the house was restored with great care according to the available drawings and photographs. The exposition contains many personal belongings of Blok and his family. And the local guides and employees are very friendly, they tell well and can then give you a ride to the station on the museum bus :)

I apologize for the "tearful" camera, I did not notice that the lens needed to be wiped ((

Blok himself never saw the “Stone of Blok”, but now Blok’s readings are constantly held near it, so the pebble is not an outsider after all))) We also read poetry, just a little bit. Somehow they ask for their own language.

"Here in Shakhmatovo in 1881-1916 in summer time Alexander Blok lived and worked.
The estate was acquired in 1874 by the professor of botany, rector of St. Petersburg University A.N. Beketov, grandfather of the great Russian poet Alexander Blok. The name of the estate seems to come from the name of one of the first owners of these places. This is also evidenced by the fact that nearby there is another village with the same name. There is one version that supposedly one of the landowners once won the village in chess, but the first version is more plausible.
Nearby were the ancient estates of the Tatishchevs, Batyushkovs, and Fonvizins. Shakhmatovo was acquired by the poet's grandfather following the example and advice of a family friend, D.I. Mendeleev, who settled in these places nine years earlier in the Boblovo estate, not far from Shakhmatov.
Blok came to Shakhmatovo annually for 36 years (out of an incomplete forty-one years) and lived here from May to October. About 300 poems have been written here. “From year to year I spend the same summer months here ... there is no place where I have not passed without a mistake at night or with eyes closed”, - wrote Alexander Blok.
Here the poet met his fate - Lyubov Dmitrievna Mendeleeva. The daughter of an outstanding chemist became his wife. The wedding ceremony was performed in the ancient "white church" of Michael the Archangel, located 3 km. from the estate (in the village of Tarakanovo).
AT different years friends of Blok, poets and writers Andrei Bely, Sergei Solovyov, E.P. Ivanov, Ellis, L.D. Semenov, actress L.A. Delmas visited the estate.
Last time Blok arrived in Shakhmatovo in 1916 before leaving for the front. His mother believed that this brief visit would protect her son from disaster.
After the 1917 revolution, the house was looted and burned by neighboring peasants. It is said that they did this “not out of malice, but simply because, undertaking to protect the abandoned ... estate, they gradually plundered everything in the house, and then wanted to hide the traces of theft.”

Well, since there are still not enough photos, let there be poems for the mood.
The islands are green.
Only one song left unfinished
Forgotten words...

The soul in fear is late,
The guy froze in a vague way,
Didn't know a secret
Some dreams I didn't understand...

And now - in envious embarrassment
Looks - the snow has melted,
And rivers discordant flow
Finds its shores.

In the hours before sunset
Among the ancient trees
I love fake colors
Your eyes and your words.

Farewell, the night shadow is coming
The night is short, like a spring dream,
But I know tomorrow is a new day
And a new law for you.

Not nonsense, not a forest ghost,
But the old man did not know the fairies
With such unfaithful eyes,
With such a changeable soul!

I anticipate you. Years pass by
All in the guise of one I foresee You.

The whole horizon is on fire - and unbearably clear,
And silently I wait, yearning and loving.

The whole horizon is on fire, and the appearance is near,
But I'm afraid: you will change your appearance,

And daringly arouse suspicion,
Replacing the usual features at the end.

Oh, how I fall - both sadly and lowly,
Not having overcome deadly dreams!

How clear is the horizon! And radiance is near.
But I'm afraid: you will change your appearance.

TO THE DEATH OF GRANDFATHER

Together we waited for death or sleep.
The agonizing moments passed.
Suddenly a breeze blew from the window,
The leaf of the Holy Book stirred.

There the old man walked - already, like a harrier, gray-haired -
With a cheerful gait, with cheerful eyes,
He laughed at us, and beckoned with his hand,
And he left with familiar steps.

And suddenly we all who were - both old and young -
We recognized in him the one who is in front of us,
And turning back in awe,
They caught the ashes with their eyes closed ...

But it was sweet to follow the soul
And in the outgoing to see the fun.
Our hour has come - to remember and love,
And celebrate another housewarming.

And Blok's grandfather was not a simple, well-known scientist, botanist, rector of St. Petersburg University ...

At the hour when daffodils get drunk,
And the theater at sunset
In the penumbra of the last wings
Someone walks to sigh for me...

Harlequin, who forgot about the role?
Are you my quiet doe?
The breeze that brings from the field
A breath of light tribute?

I, the buffoon, at the shining ramp
I emerge through an open hatch.
This abyss looks through the lamps
An insatiable greedy spider.

And while the daffodils get drunk,
I grimacing, spinning and ringing ...
But in the shadow of the last backstage
Someone is crying, pitying me.

gentle friend with blue mist,
Lulled by the swing of dreams.
Lonely clinging to the wounds
Light scent of flowers.

Your face is so familiar to me
It's like you lived with me.
Away, on the street and at home
I see your thin profile.
Your steps are ringing for me
Wherever I go, you are there.
Are you not with a light foot
Do you follow me at night?
Aren't you slipping by
As soon as I look in the door,
Half airy and invisible
Is it like a dream?
I often wonder if you
Among the churchyard, behind the threshing floor,
Sitting silently on the grave
In your chintz handkerchief?
I was approaching - you were sitting
I came, you left
Went down to the river and sang...
To the voice of your bells
Answered the evening call...
And I wept, and timidly waited...
But after the evening call
Your sweet voice faded...
Another moment - no answer,
A handkerchief flickers across the river ...
But I know sadly that somewhere
See you again.

The day faded, graceful and innocent,
Evening peeked through the lace.
And over an old book
Head is spinning.

I got up in a light penumbra,
Ran along the railing...
In the blue networks of plants
Someone was moving slowly.

The curtain quivered softly.
Took the room steps
blue cavalier
And servants.

Heard about the murder
Swayed - died.
Dropped matte brushes
In mirrors.

The horse is gorgeous! It was scary to approach him. Directly snorted and dug the ground with a hoof.

You pass without a smile
lowered eyelashes,
And in the darkness above the cathedral
Golden domes.

how your face Seems like
On evening virgins,
lowering eyelashes,
Lost in the mist...

But with you comes curly
A meek boy in a white cap,
You lead him by the hand
Don't let him fall.

I'm standing in the shadow of the portal
Where the harsh wind blows
Covering with tears
Strained eyes.

I want to suddenly go out
And exclaim: "Our Lady!
Why in my black city
Did you bring the baby?"

But the tongue is powerless to scream.
You are passing. behind you
Above sacred footprints
The blue darkness rests.
And I look, remembering
How the eyelashes are lowered
Like your boy in the white cap
Smiled at you.

Bonus from Solnechnogorsk lastly)))

Eh, I'm not in the mood to pick up poetry at all .... it didn't work today. Therefore, the choice is almost random, which caught my eye)

Come visit the poet. Is it possible to? Of course, if you decide to look into the cradle of the work of Alexander Alexandrovich Blok, a classic of Russian literature of the 20th century. To do this, it is enough to come to estate near Moscow Shakhmatovo, where the great poet came throughout his life.

How often did Blok visit the estate? Is the name of the estate connected with the game of chess? What romantic and life stories connected with the stay of Alexander Blok in the estate? In what lines of the poet can we recognize Shakhmatovo? What happened to the estate Soviet years? Who helped restore it? And what is in Shakhmatovo today?

1894

2. The territory of the estate from a bird's eye view.

Shakhmatovo is located in the Solnechnogorsk district of the Moscow region near the village of Tarakanovo, at a distance of 82 kilometers from the capital. In 1874, the property was acquired by Andrei Nikolaevich Beketov, the grandfather of the poet Alexander Blok, the rector of St. Petersburg University, and a well-known botanist. The scientist drew attention to the estate on the recommendation of his longtime friend, the chemist Dmitry Ivanovich Mendeleev, who lived nearby in the Boblovo estate.

A. L. BLOCK (FATHER OF THE POET). Photograph, 1870s, Warsaw Literary Museum, Moscow.

A. A. BLOCK (MOTHER OF THE POET). Photograph of Brandel, 1880, Warsaw. Literary Museum, Moscow.

3. At the entrance to the Blok estate.

4. The main house was only restored in 2001.

5. A huge block boulder, in the holes of which Shakhmatov's guests leave their poetic messages.

Once Shakhmatovo was part of the noble estate, mentioned in documents from mid-eighteenth century. These lands were awarded to the military for their feats of arms. The estate was adjacent to the estates of the noble families of the Fonvizins, Batyushkovs and Tatishchevs. The very name "Shakhmatovo" is by no means associated with intellectual game, and with the name of one of the owners of these lands - Prince Shah-Ahmad. Here Andrei Nikolayevich acquired not just land for construction, but a whole complex of buildings, which included a house, an outbuilding, a carriage house, a kitchen. By the way, it is in its place today that the ticket office of the estate complex is located.

6. Cozy veranda. On holidays, tea parties are still held here.

block with mother. Photograph, 1894, Shakhmatovo. Literary Museum, Moscow.

7. Memorial sign.

1894 Family group in Shakhmatovo. Photo by V.N. Beketov. Summer 1894. From left to right A.A.Blok, mother of the poet A.A.Kublitskaya - Piottukh, grandfather of the poet A.N.Beketov, brother of grandfather N.N.Beketov, grandmother of the poet E.G.Beketov, aunt of the poet M.A.Beketov. Source: Photo from the volume Notebooks(Additional to the Collected Works, 1964).

9. Looking at this photo, I remember the spicy autumn aromas that reigned here during the shooting.

Literary critics note that in the poet's work one can often see memories of his native Shakhmatov. The estate was the summer residence of the Beketov-Bloki. We lived here from May to September. When little Sashura, as his family called him, came to the village to visit his grandfather, the wise botanist showed the future poet all the wealth flora suburbs. Together they explored the surroundings, dug up plants, studied them. There is no doubt that the scientist had a hand in creating a garden in his own estate. Therefore, every tree that grows today on the territory of the estate complex has a memorial value and is protected by the museum staff.

10.

11. Combination of colors and textures.

Guests of an intelligent family at the entrance to the estate saw an outbuilding with a covered gallery and four rooms. It was in it that, until the age of three, little Sasha Blok lived with his mother and nanny. And in this wing after the wedding young poet settled with his wife - Lyubov Dmitrievna Mendeleeva - the daughter of that very outstanding chemist.

Lyubov Dmitrievna Mendeleeva.

13. Outbuildings.

15. Alexander Alexandrovich himself took part in the design of the house.

The wedding of the couple took place in a church in nearby Tarakanov. Unfortunately, during the Soviet years, this temple turned into ruins. Now historians, volunteers and public figures are painstakingly working to save the landmark. Recently I was in Tarakanov.

16. There is a stable on the estate. Blok adored horses: his favorite was a tall, stately horse named Boy, with whom they often left for the whole day to explore the vicinity of Shakhmatov.

Lyubov Dmitrievna brought two elms from the Mendeleev estate. They still grow in the chess garden to this day. Here, the newlyweds built a turf sofa: Blocks liked to call it “canape” in honor of Bolotov’s poem “To the turf canape”. The couple took care of the sofa: they watered it, cut it, and on a fine summer day they loved to sit on it, talk about art, read poetry. Nowadays, guests of the estate are forbidden to sit on it - this is written in the rules for visiting the estate. Blok created a garden for himself, according to his taste. So, even now we can walk along the winding paths of the garden laid by him.

20.

year 2000. recreated main house in former estate Chess.

21. This estate is surprisingly joyful and cozy!

In the wing, the room of little Sashenka Blok has been restored: both with toys and the manuscript of the first poem dedicated to his mother. There is also a bookbinding workshop. From childhood, Blok was in love with the process of creating books. In letters to his grandmother, he said that in addition to all children's amusements, he had the most important and most favourite hobby- Binding of books. Today, any visitor to the estate can try his hand at this business for a fee.

23. Semicircular Venetian window with colored glass.

The main house of the estate has not been preserved to our times in its original form. In 1921, the estate burned to the ground: the exact cause of the fire is still unknown. Whether it was spontaneous combustion, or whether the local peasants thus decided to hide the traces of the looting of the master's house, even historians cannot say.

24.

It should be noted that the restored building does not look like a new building. The restoration of the house was carried out by masters of their craft, based on a family chronicle compiled by the sister of Blok's mother. Among the memories found detailed description estates, plan of the main house, arrangement of rooms and furnishings. Today, the house looks the way it did in 1910 during the life of Alexander Blok, after the poet carried out a large-scale reconstruction of the building in 1910. During the repair, the poet did not touch only the pantry, where basins and jars were stored, as a reminder of the times when his grandmother cooked her delicious fragrant jam.

26. Plan of the estate.

The facade of the house, like a hundred years ago, is decorated with a wide Italian window with multi-colored windows. In one of his poems, the poet recalls this bright accent of his gray house: “And the gray house, and the Venetian window in the mezzanine, the color of the glasses is red, yellow, blue, as if it should be so.” By the way, .

27.

28. Now there is a museum in the main house.

One of the brightest and important rooms the house has a blue living room. Here, in a room covered with blue wallpaper with French royal lilies, the inhabitants of the estate gathered to read aloud, play solitaire, play charades. The main decoration of the room is an old black piano. It was donated to the museum by the writer Marietta Shahinyan. It is notable for the fact that the composer Sergei Rachmaninov once played on it.

29.

The rooms of its former inhabitants were recreated in the house. So, you can visit the room of Blok's grandmother - Elizaveta Grigoryevna Beketova, known for her translations of Darwin, Dickens, Flaubert, Maupassant, Hugo. The room of the Grandfather of the great writer Andrei Nikolaevich Beketov, who once bought this estate, was also reconstructed. In addition, historians have also restored the bedroom of Lyubov Dmitrievna Mendeleeva, the poet's wife. She, according to the memoirs of contemporaries, did not really like to stay in Shakhmatovo for a long time. She was more attracted to St. Petersburg, where she served in the theater. The poet was terribly jealous of his wife and often forgot himself in fleeting novels. The restructuring of the house allowed Blok to equip his own office. It was located above the bedroom of the poet's wife. Here he brought his father's table, at which he worked. In the secret drawers of the table, the poet kept the letters of his beloved wife, her portraits and his manuscripts.

30. Silver poplar leaves.

A huge contribution to the restoration of Shakhmatov was made by a literary critic, writer, literary critic Vladimir Petrovich Enisherlov. Together with a team of like-minded people, he acted as a popularizer of the work of the great writer, who, by the way, is his distant relative. He wrote many books dedicated to the fate and work of Alexander Blok: “I was not looking for a better life”, “Alexander Blok. Strokes of fate "and others. Vladimir Petrovich is the editor-in-chief of the historical and cultural magazine Our Heritage, from the pages of which he often tells readers about the places of Alexander Blok's childhood and life.

32. In the meantime, I want to recommend that you definitely visit Shakhmatovo!

And, of course, Shakhmatovo is worth a visit for everyone who loves the beauty of Russian estates and appreciates the work of the great Russian writer Alexander Blok. Taking this opportunity, I would like to invite you to visit the literary and musical tour of the Manor Express, which will take place on June 24. We will get acquainted with Shakhmatovo, Tarakanovo, Klin and the famous Tchaikovsky estate. Find out more about the trip program and book tickets for the tour.

33.

Soon I will prepare for you an interview with the management of this wonderful museum.
Sign up for tours of the estates on the website

And the gray house, and on the mezzanine
Venetian window,
Glass color - red, yellow, blue,
As if that's how it should be.
Alexander Blok

In Shakhmatovo, Alexander Blok spent every summer for 36 of his 41 years - from 1881 to 1916. The estate was acquired in 1874 by his grandfather, A. N. Beketov, on the advice of Dmitry Mendeleev, who had bought the nearby Boblovo estate ten years earlier.

In 1921 the chief manor house was burned by peasants and restored only in 2001. In 1981, a historical, literary and natural museum-reserve of A.A. Blok. The amount of work carried out by Soviet restorers is amazing - after all, the estate was burned to the ground.

In Leningrad, in the archives of the Pushkin House, a family chronicle was discovered, compiled by the sister of Blok's mother, Maria Beketova. Among the memoirs of the Blok-Beketov family, a detailed description of Shakhmatov was found, not only of the main house, but also of various services, and the history of their construction was told. Even the plan of the internal arrangement of rooms and furnishings has been preserved. Everything is mentioned up to the design and color of the wallpaper... This served as the basis for the restoration.

Maria Andreevna Beketova quite realistically comprehends the death of Shakhmatova: “In 1917, Alexandra Andreevna and I came to Shakhmatovo for the last time. After that, it was no longer possible to go there, and soon the house was looted and burned by neighboring peasants, not out of malice, but simply because, having undertaken to protect the estate abandoned by us, they Little by little they stole everything in the house, and then they wanted to hide the traces of theft. However, it was from the descendants of those peasants that the museum was able to buy Shakhmatov's furnishings that were preserved in their houses.

On the ground floor to the right of the entrance is the room of the poet's grandmother - Elizaveta Grigoryevna Beketova. As Blok wrote, she, fluent in several languages, translated up to two hundred printed sheets in year. The list of her works is huge - Bram, Goldsmith, Stanley, Thackeray, Scott, Bret Hart, Georges Sand, Balzac, Hugo, Flaubert, Maupassant. Elizaveta Grigorievna met with N.V. Gogol, knew F.M. Dostoevsky, Ap. Grigoriev, L.N. Tolstoy, Ya. Polonsky, corresponded with A.P. Chekhov.
On the table for needlework lies a towel embroidered by her.

Blue living room. Here the inhabitants of the estate gathered to read aloud, play charades, play solitaire, listen to music.

And only on the blue wall
The sun casts shadows on the leaves,
Yes, the wind is blowing outside the window
centennial lilac bushes,
In which the old house is sinking.

The wallpaper was painted by students of the Surikov School according to the surviving descriptions of M.A. Beketova.

The music stand is also from the family's belongings.

Like an umbrella leaning against the sofa.

The lamps in each room are different.

The room of Andrei Nikolaevich Beketov, the grandfather of the poet, botanist, rector of St. Petersburg University from 1876 to 1883, one of the founders of the Higher Women's Courses, secretary of the Free Economic Society.

“The whole appearance of the father,” writes M. A. Beketova in her memoirs, “was cute and charming. Kindness, high nobility, sincerity ... and gullibility were the main features of his character ... ".
Lamp in his room.

I don’t have a general photograph of the dining room (if you remember, I already complained about the fact that photography is forbidden in the museum, which is simply absurd). There is only a clock and a lamp.
By the way, M.A. Beketova described the gastronomic habits of the inhabitants of the house in a very fascinating way:
"During the meal, the conversation was general and very lively. They talked about different things, about household chores, about politics, about literature ... The chess day was distributed in the same way as in the city: morning tea, breakfast at one in the afternoon, lunch at 6 and evening tea at about 10, there was no supper ... At the tea table, covered with a white tablecloth, sat ... mother, dressed in a wide hood of light cotton, with a black lace headdress, and poured tea from a large yellow copper samovar ... On on the table were homemade rolls, fresh butter and cream... Father drank tea from a special cup, very strong and sweet, with a spoonful of homemade blackcurrant jam, which was served in a small painted bowl brought from the Trinity-Sergius Lavra... Great importance added to gravy, especially sauces. To boiled chicken with rice cooked from the best variety to the pulp, but certainly crumbly, and not a lump, they served white butter sauce, with lemon, lightly toasted flour; fried meat was often served with a sauce with marinated saffron milk mushrooms... such dishes were in use, such as soufflé from fish, game, always with special sauces... the bird was cut into long thin slices, and not chopped across the bones... The meat was cut thinly, certainly across the fibers ... "

"The cooks were always taken good and with big deal, but it is characteristic that, with the great humanity and even kindness of the hosts, it never occurred to anyone that a late dinner in the summertime makes the cook on hot days spend the whole day steaming in the kitchen, and generally having little free time. True, she always had a dishwasher with her, so she was spared from washing a whole pile of dishes, but no one thought to save the dishwasher either. The servants were well fed and treated very well, but the cook was swamped with work. Sometimes there were three pastry meals a day, such as dumplings for breakfast, pies for dinner, and muffins for evening tea. It was much easier for the maid, especially since a separate laundress was hired. And yet it must be said that on chess bread and country air the servants always got better and were usually cheerful. The cook in our family was considered a very important person, since good food was given great importance ... "

Storage room on the first floor. Here is how Maria Beketova describes it: "... (Storage room) did not take up much space, approximately 3 square arshins. There were shelves along the walls, on which boxes of provisions were placed: with different heaps, spices ... there were inscriptions on all of them. In the spring they were dried in the sun, placing on the balcony. Special boxes were ordered for white flour and granulated sugar. Coarse flour was bought in whole bags of poods of 5, granulated sugar in poods, since in addition to sweet dishes it was also needed for jam. Sugar for tea and coffee was bought in whole heads, and mother she mostly stabbed it with her own hands with the help of a special device with a heavy knife that went on a hinge and attached to a low box.Tea and coffee were always brought from Petersburg, the rest of the provisions were taken at the station ... The best Provencal oil for salad was also brought from Petersburg.. Steelyards hung on nails... the pantry was locked with a padlock..."

Patriarchal view from the window on the first floor. The lower panes in all the windows were of colored glass, here they are yellow.

Lyubov Mendeleeva's room on the second floor. " Beautiful lady", the muse of the poet, with whom she had a difficult relationship. By the way, for the first time they also met here, in Shakhmatovo. Lyuba was still a baby then, and Sasha was two or three years old. He gave her a flower, and she crushed it ...

Behind the screen is a bed. The psyche mirror also belonged to her, but was brought here from the St. Petersburg apartment.

Library. The most beautiful room in the house thanks to the stained glass window.

Block's office.

I really liked the furniture. The bamboo bookcase is a genuine chess one, it really belonged to Blok.

The second part of the exposition is housed in the Zemstvo elementary school in the neighboring village of Tarakanovo. The school was built in 1900.

This is a tablecloth on which family members and guests of the house wrote their names with chalk, and Lydia Mendeleeva, the great-niece of D.I. Mendeleev, then embroidered them with colored silk.

In the center in red is Alexander Blok's autograph.

I also liked the writing set, especially the elegant fountain pen. Actually, I liked a lot there, but since it was impossible to take pictures here, I don’t even remember what.

But the best of all the exhibits is Blok's own caricature of Andrei Bely. The signature says that this is Andrei Bely, discussing epistemology. I think it's very similar. And if we take into account the known circumstances - love triangle... After all, Bely had been in love with Blok's wife for many years...

And we haven't been to Boblovo, the Mendeleev's estate... And, given the ban on photography, I'm unlikely to go there now.

But the actions of the administration in this regard are simply illegal. If your photographs are not commercially captured (i.e. you do not profit from them), you are free to photograph anything that is of your interest. A ban may only be imposed on photographing exhibits using a flash, as this may harm them. Mere photography does not violate the rights of the museum. Therefore, the ban on filming in museums is illegal, especially when this "right" is offered to be bought.

And here you can’t even take pictures for money. Well, what is it?

But my report turned out to be unique, in my opinion, no one has such photographs, they are not even on the museum website.

We gathered last week in Tarakanovo-Shakhmatovo, at A. Blok's estate. Gathered - and went. To go - neither more nor less - about 100 kilometers. Having caught the thrill of driving along Volokolamka, we decided to check Leningradka. O! Better not check! Landscapes along the road - continuous industrial zones, markets, hyper-super markets, warehouses, shops, high fences, scurrying cement trucks, dump trucks, dug or digging trenches, ditches, pits, heaps of rubble, sand and all sorts of other things ... And, although, early in the morning there were no traffic jams outside the city, but there were trucks, a continuous stream of cars and constant road noise.

We traveled to Tarakanovo on the chaise - first to Yurlovo, then to Kryukovo, then to Solnechnogorsk, and only then did we get to the village. Tarakanovo. Yeah, it didn’t seem enough)) But, we must pay tribute to our public transport, and, separately, to our own spouse for an uninterrupted schedule. We did not have to wait and languish for the next flight anywhere and not even once. Despite three transfers, we arrived in Tarakanovo at almost 10 o'clock in the morning.

You still have to walk three kilometers from the village to the estate of A. Blok. No transport goes there. Looking around, and not finding any signs (the sign to the estate was "discovered" later), we tried to find one of the locals to clarify the direction where we should move on, but there was no one around. While they were looking at the map, a Tajik worker walked to the store ... followed by another one ... As a result, I had to turn to young man, equipped in a special suit and standing on the road near the official car. The young man showed me where to go and then said: Get in, I'll take you.
- Do you eat there? the husband asked.
- No, I'll just take it, I'll do a good deed.

Within five minutes we were at our destination.
1

The nearest place to the homestead, which can be reached, is at a distance of 500 meters. Then you have to go on foot: the road is unpaved, densely strewn with gravel. It is difficult to walk along such a path, especially if one has high-heeled model shoes.
2

Halfway through, visitors are greeted by a video camera standing alone on a pole in the grass. At the estate itself, there is a guard with a dog. A police girl (?) (policewoman?) carefully warned about the paid entrance to the estate.

Memorial sign in front of the entrance.
5

We go into the gate, immediately head to the checkout. The price list surprised-shocked. For an entrance ticket to visit the estate without a tour - 180 rubles! Preferential - 140 rubles.
Photographing - separate 50 rubles.

For fun, and for comparison:

1. To the Literary Museum. M. Gorky in Moscow, which we visited literally the day before - admission is free.

2. PRICE LIST for entrance tickets to museums and exhibition halls Pushkin Reserve MIKHAILOVSKOE from May 1, 2013:
entrance ticket to the House-Museum, outbuildings "Nanny's House" and "Kitchen": adults - 80 rubles, students, schoolchildren, pensioners - 40 rubles,
and with FULL EXCURSION SERVICE - adults - 120 rubles, preferential categories of visitors - 60 rubles.

3. Another example. In the museum-estate "Ostafyevo" - "Russian parnassus" (Moscow region, by the way) for preferential category For visitors, an entrance ticket to the park costs 10 rubles, for those who do not have benefits - 20 rubles, for a permanent exhibition for a privileged category of visitors - 40 rubles, for those who do not have benefits - 60 rubles. And if you come to the estate on a weekday before 13:00, you will still receive discounts.
Photographing (without restrictions) - 50 rubles.

We bought a ticket for photography and two tickets for viewing the entire estate, paying 330 rubles at a reduced price. But, before we had time to step over the threshold of the main manor house, the caretaker, seeing my camera, warned me in a stern voice that it was impossible to take pictures in the premises.
It turns out that in the Shakhmatovo estate, photography is only allowed from the yard. (I’m sorry, I didn’t read the announcement about this to the end ... I only noticed that the shooting was paid ((() But not so long ago I shot the interior in Polenov’s house, and Chekhov’s in Melehovo, and Gorky’s in Moscow, and in literary museums Orel, and at Pasternak's dacha in Peredelkino, and at Tsvetaeva's in Yelabuga, and many more places, it would take a long time to list everything. And here - it is impossible!

And from the yard... The Shakhmatovo Manor is small, a remake, and besides, it has not been fully restored. Although, by the way, even in the manor house the exhibits were collected "from the world by thread" - similar exhibits are exhibited in various museums of noble life - and not so much authentic chess has been preserved, since the peasants looted and burned the authentic chess pieces, including the manor house back in 1921!

Come on, let's go to the estate, especially since its former owners and the inhabitants have nothing to do with the price list and photography, and the museum employees allowed me to shoot the interior, as an exception.

The Shakhmatovo estate was acquired in 1874 by Professor of Botany, Rector of St. Petersburg University A.N. Beketov, grandfather of Alexander Blok. Andrei Nikolaevich Beketov (1825-1902), - the author of many popular science books, scientist and public figure. In addition, he was always interested in literature, was familiar with many writers, he was recognized in literary circles. He was good at drawing and painting watercolors.

Grandmother Alexandra - Elizaveta Grigorievna Beketova (1836-1902), - daughter of a geographer and traveler, explorer Central Asia G.S. Karelina, - was a translator, fluent in several languages. She translated many authors, including Bram, Goldsmith, Stanley, Thackeray, Scott, Brat Hart, Georges Sand, Balzac, Hugo, Flaubert, Maupassant... She met N.V. Gogol, knew F.M. Dostoevsky, corresponded with A.P. Chekhov.

The Beketovs had three daughters - they all inherited a love of literature from their parents. The middle daughter, Alexandra Beketova, the poet's mother, translated from French and wrote elements.

The manor house in Shakhmatovo was built at the beginning of the twentieth century - from a strong pine forest with cladding gray color and iron green roof. Although, later, the house was repainted several times, changed color, but the gray-green combination remained the most pleasant for the owners.

The house was decorated with a wide Italian window, white shutters and a garden terrace with posts. The lower panes in the windows were multicolored: red, blue, yellow.

Sasha Blok was first brought to the estate at the age of six months. Since then, he spent every summer at the estate for 36 of his 40 years. Here he wrote about 300 works, met his love here...

In the estate, Alexander Alexandrovich was engaged not only in poetry, but also in the daily needs of the estate, managed an extensive household. In 1910, according to their own drawings he rebuilt the main house he had inherited.

The last time Blok came to Shakhmatovo was in 1916 before leaving for the front...

Manor house. View from the park and forest.
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From the "family chronicle" of L. Beketova "... the house was looted and burned by neighboring peasants - not out of evil, but simply because, undertaking to protect the abandoned ... estate, they gradually plundered everything in the house, and then wanted to hide traces of theft.

The house burned down in July 1921. Everything burned down, including numerous services. The estate complex was restored only in 2000, and a year later, the museum-reserve received its first visitors. Fully reconstruction has not yet been completed.

View from the yard.
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The expositions of the museum are located in ten rooms on two floors of the main house, as well as in the kitchen and in the outbuilding. On the ground floor of the house there is an entrance hall, a grandmother's room, a girl's room, a blue living room, a grandfather's office, a room for Blok's wife - Lyubov Dmitrevna, a dining room overlooking the park and a pantry. The interior of the rooms was created according to the memoirs of A. Blok's aunt M. A. Beketova “Shakhmatovo. Family Chronicle, which describes in detail what the rooms in the house looked like. The exhibits are collected from different places.

The room of Elizaveta Grigoryevna Beketova - A. Blok's grandmother. In Shakhmatovo Elizaveta Grigorievna, in addition to literary activity, looked after the household, sewed, embroidered, grew strawberries and flowers, made jam, treated local peasants.

The room of Andrey Nikolaevich Beketov - the poet's grandfather.

From the Family Chronicle “In my father’s room, between the windows, there was an ash wood writing table… There was a bed and a large washstand on the opposite wall… there was an ash linen closet behind the door, against it, against the free wall, a sofa without wood, upholstered in pink chintz”
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Blue living room. The room is covered with wallpaper blue color with light blue French lilies and gold chains between them. Here the inhabitants of the estate gathered to read aloud, play charades, play solitaire, listen to music.
Relatives and friends visiting Shakhmatovo were received in the blue drawing room.

Dining room. In the dining room, the inhabitants of the estate and their guests drank morning and evening tea, had breakfast, and dined. According to the memoirs of M. A. Beketova, “During the meal, the conversation was general and very lively. We talked about household chores, about politics, about literature…”.
From the dining room you can go to the park through the door leading to the balcony.
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The library was located on the second floor in the mezzanine. There are no books left from Blok's library. All of them are collected.
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The office of Alexander Blok (1880-1921) was also on the second floor.

Bamboo bookcase and wicker chair.
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The wing, as in the old days, was overgrown with wild grapes, lilacs, wild roses...

And flowers... Numerous flowers bloomed luxuriously in the middle of summer in the chess garden.
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The boy Sasha Blok lived in the wing for up to three years with his mother and nanny, and in 1904 Alexander Blok settled there with his young wife Lyubov Dmitrievna Blok. The young lived there until 1910.

Children's photographs of A. Blok, drawings and manuscripts of his works.
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A. A. Blok with the dog Dianka on the steps of the porch of the chess house. Photograph by V. N. Beketov. 1894
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Kitchen and cellar (left, not restored)
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A room with a stove where food was cooked.

From the memoirs of M.A. Beketova:

"In the Beketovsky house, good food was considered an important matter. It was a kind of art object, as it were, a cult of gastronomy, furnished with many rules that were observed inappropriately. Everything was served, as they say, piping hot. Beautifully laid out and sliced. And cooked thinly , according to the rules, mainly French cuisine ...

Morning and evening tea was served with homemade rolls with raisins and cardamom, pancake pies, fresh butter, cottage cheese and cream, berries: strawberries, raspberries, jam.

At breakfast there were two dishes: one was always meat: cutlets, cue balls, liver fried in sour cream. The usual dish was dumplings, cottage cheese, beans, eggs with croutons. They seldom drank coffee. Always with milk. Breakfast ended with tea.

There were three courses for dinner. The last sweet was replaced by berries during the berry season. Sweet dishes were varied: air pies, ice cream, puddings, waffles. Borscht and cabbage soup were cooked. There was always a lot of garnish. They ate meat, poultry, loved mushrooms."

The cook's room. In the corner is a staircase to the second floor, where herbs were dried.
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Poetry mailbox.
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The property is surrounded by a picket fence.

This was the entrance road. Alla of birches was planted not so long ago.

Khozdvor.
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Stable. The groom turned out to be taciturn, he did not want to communicate.
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On the territory of the estate we met such a bird. What is the name - I do not know. But not shy at all.
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Several photographs of the views around the manor house.
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Silver poplar is many years old. He remembers Alexander, remembers literary evenings in the estate.
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grew at home simple flowers- mallows, marigolds, phloxes...
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Along this romantic alley one could go down to the pond. The alley was called "Turgenevskaya".
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And this path leads to the garden and garden.
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Currant ripens.
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At the stone, behind the gate, admirers of A. Blok's work read poetry, talk about poetry...
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Another descent to the pond.
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The water is muddy, near the water there are a lot of brutalized mosquitoes and horseflies. They are ready to eat the "new one" alive), so if you are going to the pond, be prepared for insect attacks, stock up on patience or repellents.