German uniform fashion designer World War II. SS uniform: before and during the Second World War


Culture never exists on its own, it is not separated, it is not cut off. Culture is always inscribed in society itself. There is politics, there is economics, there is culture. Various areas life of society, but they are always together and close, closely connected and sometimes confused. If a society has any political system, which has its own goals and objectives, and most importantly ideas, then it will certainly give rise to its own culture. It is both literature and art. Everywhere there will be an imprint of the ideas that dominate society. Whether it's building construction, paintings by artists or fashion. Fashion can also be associated with politics, weaved with an idea, tied to propaganda.



military fashion. Why not? Indeed, the form of the Third Reich is still considered the most beautiful form. Uniform by Hugo Boss. Today Hugo Boss apologizes. However, they have a good company: Volkswagen, Siemens, BMW. They collaborated with the fascists; captured Poles and French worked in their enterprises in terrible conditions. They form. Uniform for the military of the Third Reich. However, at that time Hugo Boss was not yet a large company and a well-known brand. Hugo Ferdinand Bossovich Blase opened his tailoring workshop in 1923. Sewed overalls, windbreakers, raincoats mainly for workers. The income was not great and the tailor Hugo Boss understands that only a military order can save his business. However, Hugo Boss was only one of the 75,000 German private tailors covering the army. He also sewed the SS uniform.



The author of the black SS uniform, as well as many regalia of the Third Reich, was Carl Diebitsch. He was born in 1899. Will die many years after the end of World War II in 1985. His ancestors come from Silesia, possibly from Poland. Of Education . He also served in the SS as Oberführer. He designed the SS uniforms with graphic designer Walter Heck. Dibich also designed the Ahnenerbe logo and crosses for SS officers. A sort of genius, talent, in the service of the forces of darkness. By the way, Dibich was also the director of the Porzellan Manufaktur Allach porcelain factory in 1936 before the factory was transferred to the SS and moved to Dachau.


Walter Heck, a graphic artist, was also an SS-Hauptsturmführer. It was he who, in 1933, developed the emblem of the SS, combining two runes "Zig" (the rune "zig" - lightning in ancient German mythology was considered a symbol of the god of war Thor). He also designed the emblem of the SA. And together with Karl Dibich he created the SS uniform.


Here is such a story. The history of the military uniform, which had its own designers.


Many still, and not without reason, believe that the most beautiful military uniform in history was precisely the form of the Third Reich. (Although, in my opinion, our single-breasted general uniforms of the times of the Victory or the uniform domestic airborne forces(tough in its minimalism) and excellent uniforms for sailors and officers Navy). One way or another, but few people know that interesting fact that in making military uniforms Nazi Germany such a well-known brand company as ... "Hugo Boss" took the most direct part. Captured Poles and French worked at its enterprises. They sewed uniforms for the military of the Third Reich.

In those distant times, Hugo Boss was not yet a world-famous brand. Hugo Ferdinand Boss opened his outerwear workshop in 1923. They sewed different things: overalls, windbreakers, raincoats - mainly for workers. There was tailoring and sportswear. In 1930, the factory was threatened with bankruptcy, and then on April 1, 1931, Hugo Boss decided to join the National Socialist German Workers' Party (membership number 508889). Thus, he saves his enterprise by receiving a party order for the production of uniforms for the SA, SS, Luftwaffe and Hitler Youth. By that time, the Nazi Party was already receiving large donations from across ... the ocean - from the Wall Street bankers there!

But the author-developer of the SS uniform, as well as many regalia of the Third Reich, was another person: on July 7, 1932, black uniforms and caps were introduced for members of the SS, sewn according to the patterns of the artist and adviser to the Reichsführer SS on “art issues” Karl Diebitsch (Karl Diebitsch) who was born in 1899. He will die much later - in 1985. His ancestors were from Silesia. Diebitsch was a designer by training, but he also served as an SS Oberführer. By the way, it was Dibich who developed both the famous Ahnenerbe logo and the design of crosses for SS officers. Dibich also developed the design of edged weapons for the SS. In addition, he was director of the porcelain factory "Porzellan Manufaktur Allach" in 1936 - before the transfer of the factory under the control of the SS and moving it to Dachau. As one of the researchers of this issue writes, “Hugo Boss' firm only carried out tailoring (the things of his atelier can be recognized by the marks “VA-SS”, “besteMassarbeit”, “vomReichsfuehrer-SS befohleneAusfuehrung”, etc.). Atelier Boss did not produce uniforms for ordinary SS men, it was only for the ruling elite and higher ranks SS and Luftwaffe.

Diebitsch designed the SS uniform together with the SS Sturmhauptführer (captain) and graphic artist, Walter Heck, who helped him. It was the latter who, in 1933, developed the emblem of the SS, famous today, by combining two runes "Zig" (the rune "zig" - lightning in ancient German mythology was considered a symbol of the god of war Thor). He also created the emblem of the SA.

The model for the creation of SS uniforms was probably the black color of the uniform of the Prussian hussars " dead head» (Totenkopfhusaren), worn by the latter from the 18th century until 1910. (Recall that the Prussians are Germanized Slavs. The entire population of East and, partially, Central Germany has a haplotype identical to the inhabitants of Kostroma, Arkhangelsk, Smolensk, Orel, Voronezh, Lipetsk, Ryazan, etc., as well as all Russian settlers in Siberia and even more widely, all of Asia.It was the Prussian aristocracy that created German state in its original form. In this sense, the massacre provoked "behind the scenes" between the Germans and the Slavs - both in the First World War and in the Second World War, should be considered as a CIVIL WAR - the most ridiculous (in the highest, Church Slavonic sense of the word!) And JOYFUL for hell! It is no coincidence that the head of the Belgian SS, Leon Degrel, who at one time succumbed to Nazi propaganda and considered that the Third Reich was called upon to fight in the East against the "wild Asian hordes", when he saw who he and his SS units were actually fighting with, much later, after Great War, hung in his office a portrait of Russian and German soldiers - valiantly standing friend against a friend!.. It remains to be added: alas, a FRIEND is against a FRIEND!)


The "Black Hussars" covered themselves with immortal glory on the battlefields. Later, many SS men were proud of the similarity of their form with the form of these reckless daredevils, whom everyone in Germany knew about.

The first mention of the Prussian "black hussars" can be attributed to the reign of Frederick II (the Great). The Fifth Hussars ("black hussars", "death hussars") was created in 1741 from squadrons of the 1st and 3rd hussars. The combination of black and white in the form was a living display heraldic colors kingdom of Prussia.

Why the mirlitons of the hussars were decorated with a "dead head" is still not exactly known. But historically, this sign meant fearlessness in battle and was the emblem of the most daring.

It is also important to note that in Russian Empire there were also black hussars (only not “hussars of death”, but “immortals”), which differed in a similar form. A strange coincidence: it was also ... the 5th regiment, "Alexandrian Hussars."

Having taken part in many battles, after participating in Napoleonic Wars, the miraculously surviving regiment was divided into two regiments - the 1st and 2nd Life Hussar regiments. AT German Empire these regiments were among one of the most prestigious - guards; and in their composition there were many persons of royal families. At the beginning of the 20th century, the chief of the 1st regiment was Crown Prince Wilhelm, and the 2nd was Princess Victoria (whose photo, we believe, can be seen above).

Of course, Dibich caught this time (he was born in 1899), and well remembered the uniform of the "black hussars". It remains only to adapt the harsh aesthetics to set goals, and - the most stylish uniform of the 20th century is ready! So the new elite became to some extent the successor of the old one, with the only difference being that the aristocrats disdained to join the SS (unlike the Life Hussar regiments). The aristocracy of Nazi Germany preferred the heavenly Air Force - the Luftwaffe. (For anyone interested in Kaiser Germany, the ru_kaiserreich community can be recommended!)

Tellingly, at the front among the SS there were cases of replacing the SS “dead head” on a cap with a “dead head” from tank buttonholes. This "Totenkopf" is very reminiscent of the Life Hussar.

Initially designed uniforms were worn exclusively by SS officers, but by the end of 1933 all ranks had them.

It should be noted that the organization of the SS, as www.pravda.ru notes, had a three-member structure and consisted of the General SS (Allgemeine SS), parts of the SS "Dead Head" (SS-Totenkopfstandarten) and special paramilitary SS units located in the barracks ( SS Verfügungstruppe). The last two, along with the "Leibstandarte Adolf Hitler" (Leibstandarte-SS Adolf Hitler), formed the backbone of the future SS troops (Waffen-SS).

In fact, they stopped wearing black uniforms after 1939 (with the outbreak of World War II), when mass transition members of the political party organization of the General SS (Allgemeine SS) on a gray uniform, in addition, many SS men entered military service, including in the SS troops (Waffen-SS), which since 1937 wore camouflage uniforms. The main difference between the SS uniform is buttonholes with standard runes and a woven emblem with an eagle, not sewn on right side chest above the pocket, like a Wehrmacht soldier, but on the left sleeve. In 1938, army-style shoulder straps with piping appeared different colors depending on the type of troops.

Copies of the black SS uniform could well have ended up in the dressing rooms of Soviet film studios, because in 1942 a large number of sets of black SS uniforms were handed over to the auxiliary police units in the occupied territories of the USSR, with the replacement of SS symbols and insignia. The rest of the kits ended up in the West, where they were handed over to members of local SS formations in the occupied countries. Concerning women's divisions SS, they had a uniform consisting of a black cap with an SS eagle, a gray jacket and a gray skirt, as well as stockings and shoes.

The most observant TV viewers have long noticed that Shtrilits appeared on the screen in an elegant gray uniform without a defiant swastika on his sleeve. In her Soviet spy goes to see Himmler. And he did the right thing, otherwise the Standartenführer could not escape the dressing down from the Reichsführer, and this would be a "puncture" of our agent. The types in black uniforms have disappeared not only from the streets German cities, but even from the RSHA building. People spoke caustically about them, calling them "black SS", in contrast to the brave "white SS", which they were proud of. Because they shed blood...

Sets of light gray uniforms began to arrive in the reinforcement part of the SS as early as 1935, but three years later its design was thoroughly redone. Having retained (with the exception of color) the cut of the black uniform, light gray, instead of a red bandage with a black edging with a white circle with a swastika inscribed in it, it acquired an SS eagle on the left sleeve above the elbow.

Prepared by Alexey Anatolyevich Cheverda

5 (100%) 1 vote

Hugo Boss, Nazi uniform maker and Hitler's personal stylist

What can I say, the Nazis created a magnificent visual background for themselves: events, symbols, clothes. I remember how a kid looked at Stirlitz in a German uniform - spectacular!

A few years ago, a scandal erupted around the published facts about the involvement of the world famous brand "Hugo Boss" in the creation of military uniforms for soldiers and officers of the Wehrmacht. famous designer Hugo Boss was accused of complicity with the Nazis and personal connections with Hitler. The company even turned to historians for help to sort out this issue. And although the results of a scientific study disproved many of the replicated myths about the designer, the company had to admit the fact of creating the Nazi uniform and apologize for the exploitation of prisoners of war and prisoners from concentration camps in labor factories.

But back to Hugo...

In those days, the name of Hugo Boss was not yet a well-known brand. He started his professional path as an employee of a garment factory in 1902. After 6 years, a textile shop was inherited from his parents, and in 1923 Hugo Boss opened his own sewing enterprise - a workshop for sewing overalls, windbreakers, overalls and raincoats for workers. In 1930, his firm was on the verge of bankruptcy. To save her from ruin, he took up sewing Wehrmacht uniforms.

Rumors that the world famous company"Hugo Boss" profited from cooperation with the Nazis, appeared in the late 1990s, stirred up society and caused a loud scandal. In 1997, the company publicly acknowledged the fact of cooperation with the Nazis. Since this negatively affected the brand image, the company sponsored Scientific research these facts, which was carried out by the Munich historian Roman Kester. In 2012 he published a book called Hugo Boss, 1924-1945. garment factory between Weimar Republic and the Third Reich”, in which he detailed the results of his research.

As it turned out, Hugo Boss was really engaged in tailoring military uniforms for the Wehrmacht and received large profits from these orders. And the factory used forced labor of 140 immigrants from Poland and 40 French prisoners. However, no written evidence the fact that Hugo Boss was Adolf Hitler's personal tailor has not been preserved. In addition, the designer did not participate in the development of sketches and the creation of patterns, and his factory was one of many, far from the largest, of all companies that were engaged in sewing uniforms.

Karl Diebitsch, black SS uniform designer

In fact, the designer of the black SS uniform was not Hugo Boss, but Karl Diebich, a German artist, designer and officer of the SS, and the SS emblem in the form of two “Sieg” runes was designed by graphic artist Walter Heck. The black color of the uniform of SS officers was intended to evoke respect and fear, but it soon turned out that this color had a significant drawback: summer time he absorbs solar radiation and causes profuse sweating. Therefore, black was soon replaced by gray, although black continued to be used in the ceremonial uniforms of officers of the highest echelon of the SS. The factory of Hugo Boss only made uniforms designed by Karl Diebitsch.

The creation of the SS uniform of Dibich was inspired by the uniform of the Prussian *Hussar of Death*

But the fact that Hugo Boss collaborated with the Nazis not under duress, but because of personal convictions, was confirmed even by his son. In 2007, Siegfried Boss publicly admitted that his father was a member of the Nazi Party and commented on this fact: “And who was not a member at that time? The whole industry worked for the Nazis." Back in 1931, the designer voluntarily joined the National Socialist Workers' Party of the NSDAP and was himself a staunch Nazi. It has become main reason, according to which his factory was registered as an important military enterprise and received a large order for sewing Wehrmacht uniforms. German historian Henning Kober claims that all Hugo Boss executives were Nazis and Hitler supporters.

After the end of the war, the factory again took up the production of overalls for postmen, policemen and railway workers. And its owner was tried, he escaped prison, but was sentenced to pay a fine of 100 thousand marks. True, later Hugo Boss was partially rehabilitated, and his status was changed: from the "accused" he turned into a "sympathizer." In 1948, the designer passed away at the age of 63. His company became a world famous brand after his death.

The SS troops belonged to the SS organization, service in them was not considered a state service, even if it was legally equated with such. military uniform The SS soldier is quite recognizable around the world, most often it is this black uniform that is associated with the organization itself. It is known that the uniforms for the SS during the Holocaust were sewn by prisoners of the Buchenwald concentration camp.

History of the SS military uniform

Initially, the soldiers of the SS troops (also "Waffen SS") dressed in a gray uniform, extremely similar to the uniform of regular attack aircraft. german army. In 1930, the very well-known black uniform was introduced, which was supposed to emphasize the difference between the troops and the rest, to determine the elitism of the unit. By 1939, SS officers received a white dress uniform, and from 1934 a gray one was introduced, intended for field battles. Gray military uniform differed from black only in color.

In addition, the SS soldiers relied on a black overcoat, which, with the introduction of a gray uniform, was replaced by a double-breasted one, respectively. gray color. High-ranking officers were allowed to wear an overcoat unbuttoned on the top three buttons so that colored distinctive stripes. Following the same right (in 1941) received the holders of the Knight's Cross, who were allowed to demonstrate the award.

The women's uniform of the Waffen SS consisted of a gray jacket and skirt, as well as a black cap with the image of an SS eagle.

A black ceremonial club tunic with the symbols of the organization for officers was also developed.

It should be noted that in fact the black uniform was the uniform of the SS organization specifically, and not the troops: only SS members had the right to wear this uniform, the transferred Wehrmacht soldiers were not allowed to use it. By 1944, the wearing of this black uniform was officially abolished, although in fact by 1939 it was used only on solemn occasions.

Distinctive features of the Nazi uniform

The SS uniform had a number hallmarks, which are easily remembered even now, after the dissolution of the organization:

  • The SS emblem in the form of two Germanic runes "zig" was used on uniform insignia. Runes on the uniform were only allowed to be worn ethnic Germans- Aryans, foreign members of the Waffen SS did not have the right to use this symbolism.
  • "Dead Head" - at first, a metal round cockade with the image of a skull was used on the cap of SS soldiers. Later it was used on the buttonholes of the soldiers of the 3rd tank division.
  • A red armband with a black swastika on a white background was worn by members of the SS and stood out significantly from the black dress uniform.
  • Image of an eagle with outstretched wings and a swastika (former coat of arms Nazi Germany) eventually replaced the skulls on the cap badges and began to be embroidered on the sleeves of the uniform.

The camouflage of the Waffen SS differed from the camouflage of the Wehrmacht in its pattern. Instead of the accepted pattern design with applied parallel lines, creating the so-called "rain effect", wood and plant drawings were used. Since 1938, the following camouflage elements of the SS uniform have been adopted: camouflage jackets, reversible helmet covers and face masks. On camouflage clothing, it was necessary to wear green stripes indicating the rank on both sleeves, although for the most part this requirement was not respected by the officers. In the campaigns, a set of stripes was also used, each of which denoted one or another military qualification.

SS uniform insignia

The ranks of the Waffen SS soldiers did not differ from the ranks of the Wehrmacht employees: there were differences only in form. The uniforms used the same decals like shoulder straps and embroidered buttonholes. SS officers wore insignia with the symbols of the organization both on shoulder straps and in buttonholes.

The shoulder straps of SS officers had a double backing, the upper one differed in color depending on the type of troops. The backing was edged with a silver cord. On shoulder straps there were signs of belonging to one or another part, metal or embroidered with silk threads. The shoulder straps themselves were made of gray galloon, while their lining was invariably black. The bumps (or "stars") on the shoulder straps, designed to denote the rank of an officer, were bronze or gilded.

On the buttonholes, runic "ridges" were depicted on one, and insignia by rank on the other. Employees of the 3rd tank division, which was nicknamed the “Dead Head”, instead of “zig”, there was an image of a skull, which was previously worn as a cockade on the SS caps. Along the edge of the buttonholes, they were edged with twisted silk cords, and the generals were covered with black velvet. They also knocked out the general's caps.

Video: SS form

If you have any questions - leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them.

SS is the abbreviation of the German Schutzstaffel - "protective division". The elite of the fascist troops. Initially, the squadron was formed for the personal protection of Hitler, but grew into a leading military organization. And the uniform for the SS was designed carefully, but looked intimidating. The SS wore black uniforms with breeches and knee-high boots, brown shirts with a black tie, black caps with a death's head cockade, and insignia in the form of two Zig runes. But during combat training, it turned out that the black uniform was not suitable for war and the gray SS uniform for combat operations was introduced. Also for operations in Italy and the Balkans, SS units were dressed in yellow uniforms. The whole form was constantly undergoing changes and refined over the years of the war. This variety of outfits required large capacities for the production of uniforms, and many enterprises were engaged in the production of weapons and could not produce anything else. So the provision of military needs was a profitable business.
In 1930, Hugo Boss (Hugo Boss) was on the verge of bankruptcy. Hugo, the owner of the factory, made up his mind and joined the NSDAP ( Nazi party) and immediately received an order for the production of uniforms for the SA, SS and Hitler Youth. In principle, the choice is quite predictable. It was difficult to exist outside the party, and members received assistance and benefits. Although principles did not allow someone to do this ... In 1937, almost a hundred people already worked for Hugo Boss. With the outbreak of World War II, his company was registered as an important military enterprise and received an order for the manufacture of Wehrmacht uniforms. Indeed, some of the SS uniform designs were designed by Hugo Boss, not by Hugo himself, but by Professor Karl Oberführer and designer Diebitschen Walter Kech. After Hugo Wars Boss quickly switched to making uniforms for railroad workers and postmen. And the brand entered high fashion only in the 90s. And at this time, a new movement was born - Nazi chic - Nazi chic. The costumes have undergone a significant redesign and are made from completely different fabrics. Nazi uniforms are especially popular in Japan, where they vigorous activity neo-Nazi organizations, and young people dress up in Nazi costumes "for fun." It is a pity that not everyone thinks about the ethics of their actions. Although you can not blame people for wanting to stand out, especially children. Even the Nazi uniform is very popular with fetishists, but the photo was not uploaded for ethical reasons. In general, there are quite sexy images:) Do you like fetish? Updated on 04/10/10 19:15: I run my fashion design blog, if anyone is interested, see my profile. Updated on 04/10/10 23:04: I do NOT approve of wearing fascist symbols.