Photo report from the Ust-Kubinsky district of the Vologda region. The central village is named Ustye, as it is located near the confluence of the Kubeny River into the Kubenskoye Lake. At the same time, the district is called Kubinsky - such a spelling incident. But this is by the way ... The reason for the trip was completely different. Kubenskoye Lake communicates with the entire White Sea-Baltic water system through rivers and canals. In princely times it was famous trade route, and travelers often had to drag their ships. We, on the other hand, went by motorboat to Kamenny Island from Ustya (we didn’t have to carry anything on ourselves). But first things first...

The village of Ustye, known since the time of the Rurikovichs, used to attract merchants, and now tourists. True, so far few

Local merchant quarter. Before the revolution, more than twenty eminent merchants lived in the village.

According to local historians, this is a house with a secret hole. The basement was connected by a tunnel to the Kubena River. In the basement, the merchant Zuckerman kept all his goods. After the revolution, when the property of rich people was nationalized, this merchant flooded the basement with all the good

Church of St. Nicholas

Bank of the Cuban River

Historical places with surviving buildings there are also on the opposite bank of the Kubena. Some residents believe that the missing library of Ivan the Terrible is hidden somewhere underground. talked about archaeological excavations..

Left bank of the river

The village of Ustye is a starting point water travel. We follow the tourist route

A motorboat cuts through the water surface of Lake Kubenskoye. We are heading to a tiny island known for ancient monastery. Travel time about half an hour

And now a piece of land appears in front of us with a bell tower visible from afar

This is how the place looked at the beginning of the 20th century. On the right is still active. Transfiguration Cathedral

The Spaso-Stone Monastery was founded in the 13th century. AT Soviet years it was abandoned and last years became a courtyard of the Volgoda Spaso-Prilutsky Monastery

On the shore we are met by the dog Justin

Accompanying us Mikhail from Ustya said that in the 90s the only living space was used as a hotel for fishermen

Lives on an island and a couple of cats

Brick ruins - all that remains of the Transfiguration Cathedral built in 1481

In the 30s of the last century, the temple was blown up and only the bell tower was left to be used as a lighthouse.

The village of Ustye is the second largest village in Kubenozerye. According to the antiquity of the foundation, it competes with Kubensky. In the dictionary Yu.I. Chaikina provided such information about him.
Mouth, district settlement, the center of the Ust-Kubensky district. One of ancient settlements, founded by Novgorodians as shopping center. Later it was part of the Zaozersky Principality. In the XIV century. Yaroslavl prince Vasily Vasilyevich gave the Kubensky Zaozerye to Prince Dmitry. On the site of the village of Chirkovo, located opposite the named village, the princely court of Dmitry Zaozersky was located ... We believe that the current locality made up of several villages. In the sources of the second half of the XVI in. the Petrovsky churchyard mentions a rather large for that time lakhmokurya quitrent village on the Puchkas river and on the Kubenitsa river, and in it there are 21 peasant households and 8 households. The second village in the XVI century. - Petrovsky churchyard (a village with a church and a cemetery). Documents from the 18th century it is listed under the second name - "the village of Ustye, Petrovsky Sloboda, too, belongs to Count Vorontsov." In the 19th century - 80 yards, called the Mouth.
There is a legend that administrative reform Catherine the Great was supposed to make the village of Ustye a county center, a city. A high commission came from St. Petersburg to deal with this issue on the spot, and it was as if local merchants - "industrial people" - gave the members of the commission a bribe to reject this project. The village had trading privileges, and it was not easy for merchants to lose them. county town became less famous and small Kadnikov.
Now the mouth is immersed in a sweet provincial dream. In the 70s. I came to this village on the way to the village of Voronino on the Kikht River, the right tributary of the Kubena. In the village of Voronino I stayed with Volodya Korobov, my countryman, author the best book about Vasily Makarovich Shukshin, published in the 90s. in the ZhZL series, with his relatives. Came - an inaccurate word, I literally came to Ustye from an abandoned Sukhona "unpromising" village, where we spent the night with prose writer Vladimir Shirikov, then the editor-in-chief of the Vologda Komsomolets newspaper, with his father. I crossed the Kubena River from Chirkovo by ferry and met Korobov at the appointed hour in the local park near the statue of V.I. Lenin, as was agreed upon back in Moscow. The statue was in the same place and thirty years later, when I again found myself in the Ustye, only the park looked overgrown and neglected.
Of the “fundamental” changes in the village, only the opening of the 19th-century Nicholas Chapel in the center is striking. and the installation on the embankment of a large boulder stone with anchor chains in memory of the stay here of Tsar Ivan the Terrible in 1545, who spent several days in the Mouth, waiting for good weather on the lake, in order to swim across to the Spaso-Kamenny Monastery. So Ivan Vasilievich did not wait for the light, leaving the village with nothing.
The Ustians remembered this visit and celebrated it after 550 years modestly but with dignity. In Russia, this is probably the only monument to Grozny, in literally, king. Now we need to install a stone in honor of Peter the Great's stay here in 1692, although the issue of his visit to the village is still debatable.
There is no ferry to the other side of the Cuban from a clean, well-decorated embankment. When I wanted to cross to Chirkovo, locals they pointed to a boat looming in the distance.
- Ask for a ride on the Somik.
For a boat with a cute name "Catfish" I ran and ran and lagged behind. He maneuvered endlessly away from the coast.
The pride of the village of Ustye is the center that has been preserved since the 19th century. in architectural untouchability. Near the huge church complex of the Resurrection Cathedral with shopping arcades, the famous Ivanovskaya Fair in the district, known since 1735, was held. The square, the paths on which were restored according to old photographs, is surrounded by rich merchant mansions. Among them, two houses of the beginning of the 20th century, merchants V.A. and A.I. Ganichev, owners of local factories and ships. Valery Nikolaevich Ganichev, chairman of the Union of Writers of Russia, is probably a distant relative of them, however, he somehow vaguely answers all my questions and laughs it off. On his 70th birthday, I gave him a present - two excellent photographs of Ganichev's mansions in the village of Ustye. Just in case, he accepted this gift anyway.
House of another merchant, I.N. Nikulichev, the largest Vologda millionaire oligarch, owner of the I.N. Nikulichev with his sons”, the owner of a local glass factory, has its own legend. As if this noble Ustyanin dreamed of building here, but the local authorities did not give him any documents, they dragged him out. And she brought the issue to the point that she offered Nikulichev a compromise: if he puts in a day wooden house then so be it, own the land here. They hit on the hands. During the night, the merchant brought a prepared two-story mansion and immediately picked it up. Now stands here beautiful house, but only brick, in which the Traktir cafe is located on the ground floor.
Nearby is the stone house of the German Fris Zuckermann. It can be identified by gothic architectural details. A native of Germany, Fries (probably still Fritz) married a Ustyansk widow and stayed there. They say that from the basement of the house there was a large underground passage to the river Kubena. When, after the revolution, they came to nationalize Zuckerman's property, he, upset, opened special valves on the river and flooded the basement with all his goods with water. Later, the underground passage was covered with earth.
In the XIX - early XX century. about 40 large traders-merchants lived in the mouth. By 1903 there were already 20 factories here. The Ganichevs I mentioned owned sawmills, oil mills and brick factories, and later their offspring bought a steamer that ran along the route Vologda-Sokol-Spas-Kamen, thereby opening the first regular line to the famous monastery.
A local native, writer Konstantin Konichev exclaimed: “The village of Ustye-Kubenskoye is rich. There is one such village throughout the Vologda region!” Indeed, on our lake it was the first and only "industrial corner" (that's what the journalists called it). If the domestic National economy developed not revolutionary, but evolutionary, then such an expansion of the local economic activity, which used all the rational possibilities of development, would eventually lead to the creation of a large industrial and agricultural region in the Russian North. But, alas, the roads of progress after 1917 passed away from Ku-benoozero.
In the Ustyansky Museum, officially existing since 1995 and located in former church Transformation, built in the shape of a cross, you can learn a lot interesting details about the "old times", which they begin to protect here and which they begin to be proud of. Since the end of the 90s. the mouths revived the Ivanovo fair, combining it with the regional boat festival, and celebrate these two events on one of the first Saturdays of July. Every year there are more craftsmen who make boats, shavings, karbasy.
Boating in the mouth has been known since ancient times. “Let's go to the Mouth,” my fellow countrymen said, “we'll buy a Kubenka light on the wave.” Viktor Alekseevich Krasikov often recalls how, left without a father, with the last money with his mother, he bought a boat in the mouth and how to way back a storm broke out in Korobovo and they themselves barely escaped and, fortunately, did not drown the new boat. She, this boat-kubenka, became a nurse for them.
Now the same boat, colorfully painted, can be seen in the same Ustyansk Museum.
The Ustians remember that their homeland has been inhabited by Russian people since the 7th century. The monumental Voskresensky churchyard in the Ustye stands on the spot where the village began. Here the first temple in honor of the Resurrection of Christ was cut down by the Slavs. Gradually, he comes to life. In the Church of St. Nicholas, built in 1820-1836, an analogue of the Vologda Cathedral of the Resurrection Cathedral, services are held by Archpriest Vladimir Kolosov, rector of the church of St. Athanasius in the village of Chirkovo. But there is still no end to the restoration work here.
In 2006, the boat festival, which is becoming increasingly popular, was combined with the fair " Russian governors in the depths." Every year, Vologda residents choose one or another city to hold the "main" Torzhok in the year. That year the choice fell on the village of Ustye. It is natural that local authorities released a considerable amount for them for the improvement. We arrived in Ustye after the fair, and the village was downright unrecognizable: the whole center shone like in the picture.
The fact that there are big changes in the mouth (thank God, for the first time in recent decades in better side!), I understood “from my belfry” back in September 2005, when I lived in my house in Korobovo. The foliage was already falling, and late in the evening, far, far away on the other side of the lake, usually dark, forested, a yellow dotted line of lights suddenly appeared. I guessed that it could be seen the embankment of the Usty, where they lit new bright lights. I calculated the distance to the lights - 40 km.
And yet, both on holidays and on weekdays, the village of the Kuben industrial merchants, which had dozens of profitable enterprises, now lives on alms from the Vologda regional budget, of which annual subsidies account for 80 percent. Consider that no one is producing anything here anymore. Therefore, unemployment here is one of the largest in the region.
When in 1975 I returned in August from the village of Voronino from Volodya Korobov, I decided to buy Kuben fish for my father for his 50th birthday. I went around the entire mouth - I didn’t find a single fish bone, as if there was a village not near big water(the flood of the mouth of the beautiful Kubena here reaches more than a kilometer), and in the Kara-Kum desert. And in our market time there is no fish market here, there is nothing.
I sat for the last time on a bench near a boulder in honor of the 550th anniversary of Ivan the Terrible's visit to these places, admired the islands of the delta of the clear, sandy and rocky bottom, full-flowing Kubena River, looked at the Afanasievskaya Lysogorskaya Church in Chirkovo (probably the name of this place descended from teals - wild ducks) and went to look for a bus that that evening took me to the village of Nikolskoye, where the famous estate of the Mezhakovs landowners once stood. Also destroyed.

Ustye-Kubenskoye - a village in the Vologda region, administrative center Ust-Kubinsky district and Ustyansky rural settlement.
It is located 70 km northwest of Vologda at the confluence of the Kubena River into Kubenskoye Lake.
The village of Ustye is one of the oldest settlements in Zaozerye. First written references about the Mouth belong to the 15th century.
in the middle and late XIX century, the village experienced a rapid industrial flourishing. The influx of capital and lively trade contributed to the intensification of construction activity. central part The mouth formed mainly during this period.
The main historical planning directions have been preserved, in the future they were organically continued. The village of Ustye-Kubenskoye is one of the few settlements that have retained their historical view and elements of the building structure that developed here in the 16th century, not affected by the regular planning characteristic of the 18th century.

I must say right away that all the photos were taken in 2003, when I took part in the development of the project protection zones Ustye village.

1. Church of the Resurrection, 1763 - 1773, st. Proletarskaya, 3a. Now used as a warehouse.

2. Church of St. Nicholas of Myra, 1820 - 1836, st. Proletarskaya, 3. Under restoration.

3. Church of Peter and Paul (Slobodskaya), 1766, st. Yakovleva, 4. Now - a carpentry workshop, unused.

4. Church of the Intercession of the Virgin, 1848, st. Yakovleva, 8. Workshop, unused.

5. Fence of the Resurrection churchyard with commercial premises, 1841, st. Soviet / st. Proletarian. Now there are shops.

6. Transfiguration (cemetery) Church, 1888 - 1890, st. October, 13. Modern usage- museum.

7. Trading house of the merchant Nikulichev, con. XIX century, st. Embankment, 1. Editorial office of the newspaper "Northern Nov".

8. Stone residential building Nikulichev, 1910, st. Kommunarov, 1. Administrative building.

9. Nikulichev's wooden residential building, second half of the 19th century, st. Soviet, 2.

10. Nicholas Chapel, early XIX in., st. Soviet, 8, operating.

11. Zuckerman residential building, early 20th century, st. Sovetskaya, 6. Administrative building
treasury.

12. Residential building of the Izbuskins, con. XIX century, st. Soviet, 4.

13. The building of the almshouse, 1904, st. Collective farm, 7.

14. Bank building, con. XIX century, st. Kommunarov, 2.

15. Residential building Ganichev, con. XIX century, st. Proletarskaya, 2. Modern use - registry office.

16. Residential building of the Kruglikhins, con. XIX century, st. Soviet, 3.

17. Hotel "Paris", con. XIX century, st. Sovetskaya, 11. Now - the district administration.

18. The building of the ministerial school, 1871-1873, st. Oktyabrskaya, 1. Now - school museum, 2nd floor - housing.

19. The building of the higher primary school, 1909, st. Oktyabrskaya, 4. Now - a school.

20. The building of the mechanical and technical school, 1912, st. Oktyabrskaya, 10. Now - a school.

21. The building of the hospital building of the zemstvo hospital, the beginning of the 20th century, Ul. Kommunarov, 18.

31. Craft girls' school, st. October, 8.

32. House of the clergy of the Resurrection Church, st. Proletarian, 5.

35. Residential building, st. Zarechnaya, 1.

36. Residential building, st. Zarechnaya, 3.

37. Dairy plant, st. Zarechnaya, 9.

39. Residential building, st. Proletarian, 17.