13.10.2015, 11:48

Ryazan region abounds historical monuments and interesting places for visiting. This region has rich history, so there are so many attractions in it, but not all of them are located in good condition, some are already quite dilapidated. Among them is Mount Bykov with the remains of the estate, miraculously preserved from past centuries. At present, it looks unsightly, the degree of deterioration of the buildings is great, but they are still worthy of inspection, as they keep a large layer of history.

Former greatness

In its heyday, this place was ideal for both relaxing and living away from the hustle and bustle. In addition to the main estate, there was a beautiful park in which it was pleasant to walk, additional buildings where guests could be accommodated. Now, from all this greatness, only dilapidated ruins remain, seeing which you can even get scared.

Approaching the estate from the west, you first have to overcome the thickets of trees and bushes, and only then you can see the remains of its former beauty - an old wooden non-residential building, very lopsided from time to time, with empty window openings. Above the entrance you can still see an icon with a partially preserved inscription. Inside, everything is also very dilapidated, but if you wish, you can even climb to the next floor, carefully making your way along the floor, which no longer inspires confidence.

place name

There are several versions of where this name came from. There is an opinion that Bykova Gora began to be called from the same name of the manager who once lived there, or from the fact that bulls were once bred there. The most plausible version says that at the confluence of two rivers there is a hill that looks like a bull's ridge, which is why the place is named like that.

Bykova mountain long time was related to the Naryshkin family, among which Emmanuil Naryshkin deserves special mention. The lands of the Tambov province passed to his great-great-grandfather, who was the uncle of Peter 1, even during the reign of the latter.

Emmanuil Naryshkin also served in the Ministry of the Interior, then had the rank of master of ceremonies. After the death of his wife, he went to live in the place of possession of his ancestors, and changed the place of the family estate, settling on Bykova Gora. He left the peasants who lived in the villages belonging to him in place, left them the lands, since at that time serfdom has already been cancelled. At the same time, the contemporaries of this man celebrate him good relations to the peasants.

Changes on Bykovaya Gora

After moving to this place, Naryshkin built the estate and began to improve it. After some time, he married a second time to Alexandra Chicherina. Through the efforts of Emmanuil Dmitrievich, the estate on Bykova Gora became very beautiful, cozy and comfortable.

For the owners' housing there was big house on 2 floors, decorated with balconies, decorative turrets and unusual lancet windows. The house had a rich collection of books, the Naryshkins' library was considered one of the best of its kind. Separately, next to the house was a small church, built in memory of the first wife, it was distinguished by its beauty and at the same time the severity of lines and shapes. It was dedicated to Saint Catherine, after whom the first wife of Naryshkin was named.

The master's house was surrounded by a garden with large quantity trees, ornamental shrubs and flowers, for exotic plants there was a special greenhouse. Summer life in this estate passed sedately and interestingly - all kinds of receptions and dinners were often held, even noble persons visited this place

Separately, it is worth mentioning the production facilities opened by Naryshkin near the estate - among them were a timber processing enterprise, a winery, in addition, Naryshkin produced glass and tar.

All this made it possible to create jobs, and therefore not to live in poverty for the population. Separately, it is worth mentioning the workshop of the wife of Emmanuil Dmitrievich, where beaded jewelry, dresses, carpets, known throughout the country, were made. Local women worked there, receiving good remuneration for this. The funds received at all enterprises, the Naryshkins invested in charity - they built churches, schools, shelters. Among the institutions that appeared thanks to their help, one can note the local history museum, the Catherine Institute, a shelter for the children of prisoners. Naryshkin also donated to in large numbers funds for the education of the people in his province.

Successors of the case

Emmanuil Dmitrievich died in 1901 and was buried in the Kazan Monastery. His wife continued the work - she donated funds to charity, contributed to the construction of new institutions, and helped with things. All this continued until the change of power, when in 1919 Alexandra Nikolaevna died.

The estate began to be used as a camp for pioneers, then as a tuberculosis dispensary. After that, the building was abandoned and is in a deplorable state to this day. Currently, Bykova Gora is the courtyard of the Vyshensky Monastery.

You can get to this place along the highway from Ryazan through Shatsk and Konobeevo. A little before reaching Vysh, you need to turn left. On the maps given object is not reflected, so it will not be easy to find it.

May 2014

190 km from Ryazan (passage: Ryazan-Shatsk (highway M5 "Ural"), after Shatskoye near the village of Polnoye Konobeevo, turn right towards Lesnoye Konobeevo and Vyshi. After 13 km - turn left towards Nikolaevka or Bykov Gora. After 2 km you will be there) there is another abandoned manor, which is a monument of history and architecture - manor house largest landowner, philanthropist, chief chamberlain imperial court, holder of the highest Russian order of St. Apostle Andrew the First-Called - Emmanuel Dmitrievich Naryshkin, whom some historians consider illegitimate son Emperor Alexander I , others - the son of Prince Gagarin ....

Until 1847, Naryshkin was on military service, with whom he resigned due to health reasons with the rank of lieutenant colonel. After that, he went to his estate .... However, fate pulled him out of the hinterland many times to carry out state affairs, but after each next stage civil service Naryshkin again returned to his cozy estate, where he found peace of mind and solitude ...
The estate was repeatedly visited by high-ranking persons. So in 1886, their Imperial Highnesses Grand Duke Sergei Alexandrovich and his wife arrived here on an unofficial visit - Grand Duchess Elisaveta Feodorovna and His Imperial Highness Pavel Alexandrovich Romanov....

Given the status of his guests, Naryshkin maintained the estate in perfect condition. In addition to the wonderful two-story wooden main building, the estate also had a sawmill, a sewing workshop, and a large subsidiary farm, and an orchard, and a park, and much more ...

Well, now it's time for us to get acquainted with this wonderful place....

190 km behind and we suddenly run into a fenced area ... As follows from the sign on the gate, this is nothing more than the courtyard of the Holy Dormition Vyshensky Convent (the monastery itself is 3 km from here - if you move directly, or 5 km - if on the road) ....

Road signs we are respected, so we left the car at the gate, and then we went on foot ...

Nothing indicated that the famous estate was located here: to the left and to the right of the path there were quite decent village houses, in which, obviously, nuns or workers of the monastery lived ...

Already on the descent to the river, through the dense foliage, we noticed the silhouette of some building....

Let's head this way...

And now a two-story wooden building with a turret appears in front of us .....

And this seems to be the main entrance, and there are some inscriptions....

It turns out we were right on target. Before us is really nothing but the estate of the Naryshkins, which today is a monument of architecture and history and is protected by the state ....

From the following announcement it follows that there is even a whole commission on the restoration of this structure ....

It's time to look inside the building. Maybe we will find at least some traces of restoration work ....

However, no matter how hard we tried, apart from those two pieces of paper at the entrance, we did not find anything modern .... If the "restoration" work continues at the same pace, then in a couple of years, and maybe earlier, the beautiful place on which it will be possible to build some modern building, which will no longer be protected by the state ....

A few words about the post-revolutionary history of the estate. Until 1988, it housed a tuberculosis clinic. Well, from 1988 to the present. all this, as noted above, is protected by the state ....
Therefore, if any of you have a desire to look at the remains of an architectural monument, hurry up, otherwise you won’t see it soon ...

Already before leaving, on the front side of the estate, we noticed just such a wooden tablet (something like a kind of coat of arms) .....

Now this place is more terrifying, especially for those who approach from the west through the old linden forest. From the wilds of oaks and maples found in places, the traveler will make out a wooden building, and coming closer, he may be surprised, and what good he will die of. The old manor, entirely made of wood, is overgrown, warped and frozen: the icon on the end speaks of the holiness of the place, here even a part of the text is read “... he was a saint. Russia did not keep, the Lord kept, ”and if you wish, it is possible to get inside - the floors are shaking, but the stairs to the second floor are still quite wow.

There are legends about Bykova Gora even today. Some old-timers associate the name with the name of the local manager Bykov, others believe that the name of the place was given by the farm where the bulls were fed. In fact, where Vysha merges with Tsna there is a hillock, from a distance resembling a bull's hump - hence the name. The fate of Bykovaya Gora is connected in a special way with the great-great-grandson of Peter the Great's uncle, Emmanuil Dmitrievich Naryshkin. In the second half of the 17th century, with the highest command of Peter I, Lev Kirillovich Naryshkin was given as a gift the lands of the Tambov province. The episode when Bykova Gora became the estate of Emmanuil Naryshkin was preceded by various events. So, Emmanuil Dmitrievich was born in St. Petersburg on June 30, 1813. He received his education abroad. He married Ekaterina Novosiltsova, the daughter of a real Privy Councilor. The career of Emmanuil Dmitrievich advanced rapidly. At court, he served as the highest official of the Ministry of the Interior, then the master of ceremonies of His Court. Imperial Majesty. His merits were marked by all orders without exception. Russian Empire, including the most honorable and highest - the Order of St. Andrew the First-Called.

Naryshkin's childless marriage was cut short by the untimely death of his wife. The death of his wife coincided with the abolition of serfdom - these two events radically changed Naryshkin's life. He left the service and settled in the Tambov province. In the Shatsk Territory, he owned vast territory, which included villages along the Tsna River - from Polny Konobeev to Aglomazovo, total 16 villages and three villages with a population of 6190 souls, not counting women and children. Not wanting to embarrass the peasants with resettlement, Naryshkin left them almost a third of his land, and a well-maintained family estate with administrative center in the village of Polnoe Konobeevo with a population of 1300 inhabitants, who had a volost government and a market, he transferred to a new place - in the tract Bykovu Gora. There is a mention of Bykovaya Mountain in the book of Pyotr Petrovich Semyonov Tien-Shansky “Complete geographical description our fatherland." famous traveler wrote that Naryshkin, even before the liberation of the peasants from serf captivity, was rare type enlightened landowner, "fatherly caring about the well-being of his peasants", he left a good memory of himself with his donations.

Emmanuil Dmitrievich longed for solitude, for which Bykova Gora was the best fit. Through his efforts, a unique manor complex arose here. Soon Naryshkin married again. His chosen one was the sister of the famous lawyer and philosopher, professor at Moscow University Boris Chicherin - Alexandra Nikolaevna. Emmanuil Dmitrievich spent several years in a happy marriage, and the estate on Bykova Gora became a kind of summer residence for the Naryshkins. The center of the estate was a spacious two-story manor house - a building with intricate lancet windows, closed passages, medieval turrets and carved balconies, from which a picturesque view of the floodplain meadows of the Tsna River opened. In one of the halls of the manor house there was an extensive library, where hundreds of volumes of priceless books were kept and read. periodicals in Russian and foreign languages. Trying to keep a good memory of his first wife, Naryshkin built a miniature wooden church in native Russian and strict Orthodox style, in honor of the Holy Great Martyr Catherine, the heavenly patroness of his first wife. According to the memoirs of contemporaries, it was "small in size", had "beautiful architecture on the outside and magnificent decoration inside, an oak carved iconostasis, elegant drawings of icons of high artistic work."

All manor buildings were drowned in the greenery of a shady garden and park, which were decorated with luxurious flower beds, gazebos and a pond. Overseas peaches and apricots ripened in greenhouses. The entire estate was kept in exemplary condition. Despite the fact that Bykova Gora was far from the noise of the city, social life went on quite lively in it - dinner parties were held. A frequent visitor to Bykovaya Gora was the Minister of the Court, Count Illarion Vorontsov-Dashkov, and his family. There were also distinguished guests from the Romanov family on the estate. Naryshkin's wife glorified the estate throughout Russia, organizing an embroidery workshop next to the manor house. Here, girls-embroiderers, among other things, weaved from beads, their work was generously paid, because they came to work several kilometers from the surrounding villages. The girls were making Wedding Dresses, carpets, lace to decorate scarves and linen. The Naryshkins set up a school for peasant children and a hospital at the estate. Emmanuil Dmitrievich organized a whole network of factories on Bykovaya Gora - sawmill, tar, distillery and glass, so that the population was always with money and with business. And the proceeds from the factories went to charity. So, not far from Bykovaya Gora, the temple of Sergius of Radonezh, erected at the expense of Naryshkin, near Bykovaya Gora in the village, later renamed in his honor to Emmanuilovka, has been preserved and still operates.

The Naryshkins and the Vyshenskaya Hermitage helped, allocating funds for construction free of charge public schools, schools, hospitals, shelters, almshouses, the maintenance of scholarship holders. So, at the expense of Emmanuil Dmitrievich, in memory of his first wife, the Catherine Teachers' Institute was built, provincial public library"Naryshkin Reading Room", Museum of Local Lore in Tambov. The first building in the country for the Society was built folk readings, the first shelter in Russia for children under arrest was opened. Emmanuil Dmitrievich made donations (about 700 thousand rubles) to public education in the Tambov province and more than 300 thousand rubles for a new building of a religious school in Shatsk. He died on December 31, 1901 in St. Petersburg. In Tambov, admirers arranged a mourning arch with the inscription: “Grateful Tambov to the Illuminator of the People,” near which a lithium was performed. They buried Naryshkin in the Kazan Monastery, in a specially prepared crypt.

The case of Naryshkin was continued by his wife, who became the last mistress of Bykovaya Gora. Having lost her husband, Alexandra Naryshkina came here in summer and autumn. She lived in solitude, surrounded by servants, but she could not stand peace. The Naryshkinsky forest from Vysha to Shatsk changed during the time of Naryshkina: she patronized folk art crafts, followed the work of the Society of Folk Readings, and maintained a shelter for children under arrest. In 1913, the Diocesan Church was opened in Shatsk. women's college, Alexandra Nikolaevna supplied the poor pupils with galoshes and boots, sent two cows to the school from Bykovaya Gora. At the expense of Naryshkina is being built church school in Emmanuilovka and Zhelanny. She donates to the Vyshinsky hermitage and even wants to set up a hospital there. The life of Alexandra Nikolaevna was interrupted in 1919 in Tambov at the hands of the Bolsheviks. All her property was nationalized. Subsequently, a pioneer camp was located on the estate on Bykovaya Gora, then a tuberculosis dispensary. Resources have been exhausted, and the mutilated estate is, by the way, a monument historical significance, - “because of the dilapidation of buildings” they threw it on the “balance of nature”. The manor house was empty and lost its former grandeur, a magnificent park was overgrown, a unique library went to kindle the stove. In the early nineties of the last century, nuns began to move to the desert from the Holy Dormition Vyshensky Monastery. And by 2004 Bykova Gora became his farmstead.

Nowadays it is not so easy to get to Bykova Gora. on maps (which last time ruled in the eighties and since then they have been reprinted only by changing the year of publication and uploaded to GPS navigators) Bykova Gora has a signature - non-residential. You can get on the M5 highway from Moscow towards Shatsk, then to Konobeev, then turn to Vysha, and, before reaching the last one, turn left along the asphalt.

Is in Ryazan region Amazing places, where folk, or rather, tourist trails have long been trodden. famous museums, estates and reserves, where at any moment they are ready to receive guests, tell and show, and at the same time - give drink and food ... However, there are much more places in our region where narrow, unbeaten paths lead. But that doesn't make them any less amazing.

It is a pity, of course, that those objects where it is not customary to carry tourists often appear before random guests in an unsightly, and sometimes in a dilapidated form. But the appearance of ancient temples and abandoned estates is still fascinating. And how many secrets and mysteries they keep within their walls!

This article is a kind of "guide" for those who, on one of their free days, want to discover little-known places in the Ryazan region, get unforgettable emotions and unique photographs. She helped us put it together. Ksenia Panacheva, author of the tourist and educational project "I'll show you!"

Shatsk region. Wooden manor of the Naryshkins

In the place where the Vysha River on the territory of the Shatsky District merges with the Tsna, near the village of Nikolaevka, there is a hillock that from a distance resembles a bull's hump, hence the name of the place - Bykova Gora. Here, on the banks of the Tsna, stands the unique estate of the Naryshkins. Huge two-story manor house, completely built of wood.

Everything is interesting in this intricate example of wooden architecture: the turret attached to the left wing of the house, and the intricate lancet windows, and the covered gallery leading from the main house to the brick workshop, where they used to sew with beads...

The owner of the estate was Emmanuil Naryshkin, the master of ceremonies of the Court of His Imperial Majesty, a real privy councillor. Once upon a time, a lively social life was conducted here: dinner parties and festive evenings were held. In September 1886, the estate was honored with a visit by high-ranking persons: Their Imperial Highnesses Grand Duke Sergei Alexandrovich with his wife Grand Duchess Elisaveta Feodorovna and His Imperial Highness Pavel Alexandrovich Romanov…

AT Soviet years a pioneer camp was located on the estate on Bykova Gora, then a tuberculosis dispensary. Currently, the estate belongs to the property of the church, but in fact it is in an abandoned state.

fog. Church with unique frescoes

The urban-type settlement of Tuma in the Klepikovo district is an unremarkable village that you pass by on your way from Ryazan to Kasimov. Meanwhile, there is one attraction that you should definitely see - the Trinity Church. The stone temple was built in 1841 at the expense of parishioners, and the murals inside were completely finished in 1910.

These murals make the temple unique. We are talking about unique frescoes made according to sketches by Russian masters of the 19th century: Vasnetsov, Nesterov, Ivanov, etc. On the walls you can see the paintings “The Appearance of Christ to the People”, “Christ in Russia”, “Christ in the House of Martha and Mary” and others. Some frescoes exactly repeat the design Vladimir Cathedral in Kyiv.

In addition, the church has preserved a unique two-tiered iconostasis made of Italian white marble and a wooden sculpture of Christ - such were previously common in the Russian North.

The temple is also striking in its height, which is atypical for a small village: the bell tower raises the cross by about 80 meters.

In the late 1920s, the Trinity Church, like many others, was closed. Perhaps it would have been demolished, but among the local residents, the so-called "Tumsky rebellion" began, during which it was possible to protect the temple from destruction and ruin. It is currently active. Father Mikhail, who serves here, welcomes guests with great pleasure and is ready to talk for hours about this unique place.

Shilovo. Drunken forest and haunted manor

On the outskirts of the Shilovsky district, in woodland not far from the village of Tarnovo, there is an unusual forest that many have heard of. The pines are crooked here bottom trunk in one direction, as if frozen in a single impulse of dance. There are many versions of this anomaly: they sin both on the incredible strength of the hurricane, and on the machinations evil spirits. Most convincing scientific hypothesis. In the late 70s, when the trees were planted, the weather was abnormally humid for several years in a row: the rainy summer was replaced by snowy winter. A section of sandy soils simply “slid” slowly, and along with the soil, young pines leaned to the west, twisting their trunks. Since about 1980, the process has stopped, and the pines stretched their tops towards the sun. But this, we repeat, is only one of the versions that does not explain some mystical things. They say, for example, that technology and electronics behave unpredictably in the Drunken Forest.

If you are afraid to go to the Drunken Forest alone, contact the Zaryana ethnocultural center in Shilovo. Here they can tell you a lot of interesting things about local ancient folk customs. For example, about the rite of baking a child. Did you know that the tales about Baba Yaga, who puts the boy on a shovel and sends her into the oven, have a real background? In the old days, if a child was born sick and weak, a stove was heated in the house, and when it cooled to an acceptable temperature, the child was placed there. The baby warmed up, after which many ailments really receded. So it turns out that the fabulous Baba Yaga is actually a healer who treated the child ...

Andrey Gavrilov, the director of the Zaryana ethnocenter, will not only help organize an excursion to the Drunken Forest, but will also show a haunted estate in the village of Lunino, not far from Shilov. locals they say that a massive house with columns is no, no, and a mysterious girl in white will flash by. The legend says that the daughter of the last manager of this estate fell in love with a groom, but her parents did not allow the couple to seal the union, and she hanged herself in one of the halls on the second floor. Perhaps you will be “lucky” to see her ghost, which has become another Shilov attraction.

P.S. To be continued...

Manor Bykova Gora, village Nikolaevka, 30 km from the city of Shatsk (Russia, Ryazan region, Shatsky district, Bykova Gora)

I stumbled upon the estate "Bykova Gora", while preparing a summer trip in 2013 in the Ryazan region. I do not regret that they gave a detour of almost 320 km especially for her sake - there may not be another such chance, the house will inevitably fade away. The load-bearing and enclosing structures were so degraded that the whole building moved, warped, like a wet cardboard box. Most dangerous place in my opinion, the gallery, the floors are rotten, the wood has decomposed from many years of exposure to moisture ... but seen in once more shocked, stunned, unnerved the soul ... why do we not cherish such extraordinary, one-of-a-kind works of estate culture?
From Ryazan to Shatsk 160 kilometers of quite adequate highway. Shatsk itself is not remembered - a modest town without bright architectural accents. Further, our path lay on Polnoe Konobeevo, and to the side locality Vysh, known for its monastery (by the way: we also visited there). Turn to Bykova Gora not reaching 3 km to Vysha (it seems there is a sign).

The places here are deserted, deaf. In the belly of a primeval, virgin forest, only spontaneous dumps of household garbage remind of civilization.
The destination is only a couple of kilometers away. A bullet flew into the gate, behind which, as it turned out later, the household of the Vyshets monastery was located. The wooden house is hidden in an array of thickened park, flowing down to Tsna, to the left of the monastery houses.
By the middle of summer, the grass in the park exceeds human height, since a thread of an asphalt path has been preserved, allowing you to come close to the mansion.
I take my eyes off the viewfinder for a second and immediately fall into the world of dreams, the world of dear old times... the train of thought is sometimes interrupted by the whistling of birds, the buzzing of a bumblebee or the rustle of trees disturbed by the wind...
How beautiful this manor house was, the rectangular volume of which is complicated by bay windows, balconies, risalits and a turret.
Of particular interest is the wooden semi-circular passage, decorated, like the mansion, with fluted semi-columns and rustication in a run. These two buildings are connected by another common reception: rather refined form of lancet windows.

Excerpt from a new book by A.B. Chizhkova and E.A. Grafova "Ryazan estates" M., 2013:
With early XVIII in. Bykova Gora - the possession of the nobles of the Naryshkins. The estate was founded in 1871. public figure and benefactor, chief chamberlain of the court E.D. Naryshkny (1813-1901), first married to E.N. Novosiltsova (1817-1869) and the second - to A.N. Chicherina (1839-1919). At the estate there was a training workshop for peasant women; sawmill, distillery, tar and glass factories worked. In 1918 the estate library was transferred to the Central District Library.
In addition to the two-story wooden main house on a brick plinth with a two-story octagonal tower and a gallery, a one-story manager’s house (occupied by the neighboring Vyshensky Monastery), a ruined outbuilding, a one-story workshop building, a one-story wooden house gardener, garden and terraced park - all second half of XIX- the beginning of the XX century. A number of outbuildings and park architecture have been lost.
The estate was visited by members imperial family- great book Sergei Alexandrovich with his wife Elizaveta Fedorovna; Minister of the Court I.I. Vorontsov-Dashkov.
After 1917, a pioneer camp was located in the estate, then a tuberculosis clinic; since 2004 - the courtyard of the Holy Dormition Vyshensky Monastery.
In the surrounding villages that belonged to E.D. Naryshkin, there are the parish churches of the Epiphany built by him in 1856. in the village. Shamorga and wooden Sergievskaya 1860 in the village. Emmanuilovka.
In Tambov, A.N. and E.D. The Naryshkins owned a house on the street. Bolshoi (now Soviet), 80.
In 1993 a bust of E.D. Naryshkin by the sculptor N.L. Aronson 1913
E.N. Naryshkina was buried in the aisle of the Fedorovskaya Church of the Alexander Nevsky Lavra in St. Petersburg, E.D. Naryshkin - in the Tambov Kazan Monastery.

Sad to see this once cozy noble house not in better time its existence, but time is inexorable — so hurry to see and capture!
In the cold season, the view is less obstructed by greenery, which makes it possible to take more successful overview photos.