Chile andes mountains. Central Tropical Andes

The length of the Andes - 9000 km

Andes or Andean Cordillera, in the language of the Incas - copper mountains. They form the longest mountain range in the world. Their length is 9000 km - from caribbean to Tierra del Fuego. The highest mountain of this mountain range is Akonkagau (6962 m). There are places where the Andes are 500 km wide, and the maximum width of the longest mountains in the world is 750 km ( Central Andes, Andean Highlands). Most of the Andes is occupied by the Puna plateau. There is a very high snow line here, which reaches 6500 m, and average height mountains is 4000m.

The Andes are relatively young mountains, the process of mountain building ended many millions of years ago. The origin began in the Precambrian and Paleozoic periods. Then, on the site of the boundless ocean, land areas were just beginning to emerge. Throughout the time, the area where the current Andes are located was either sea or land.

Andean education

The formation of the mountain range ended with the uplift rocks, as a result of which huge folds of stone protruded to a very great height. This process continues to this day. The Andes have volcanic eruptions and earthquakes.

The longest mountains in the world are also the largest inter-oceanic divide. The Andes originate the Amazon and its tributaries, as well as tributaries of other major rivers of South America - Paraguay, Orinoco, Parana. The Andes serve as a climatic barrier for the mainland, that is, they isolate the land from the west from the influence Atlantic Ocean, from the east - Pacific Ocean.

Climate and relief of the Andes

Andes lie at 6 climatic zones: northern and southern subequatorial, southern tropical, equatorial, subtropical temperate. On the western slopes of the mountains, up to 10 thousand millimeters of precipitation falls annually. As a result of the length, the landscape parts differ significantly from each other.

According to the relief, the Andes are divided into three regions: central, northern, southern. The Caribbean Andes and the Ecuadorian Andes, the Northwestern Andes belong to the Northern Andes. The main Cordilleras are separated by depressions of the valleys of the Magdalena and Cauca rivers. There are many volcanoes in this valley. These are Huila - 5750 m, Ruiz - 5400 m, and the current Cumbal - 4890 m.

Volcanoes of the Andes

The Ecuadorian Andes include a high volcanic chain with the highest volcanoes Chimborazo - 6267 m and Cotopaxi - 58967 m. They stretch through seven states of South America: Bolivia, Ecuador, Colombia, Peru, Venezuela, Argentina, Chile. The Central Andes include the Peruvian Andes. The highest point is Mount Huascaran - 6768.

The longest mountain system

The Inca Empire in the Andes is one of the most mysterious disappeared states. tragic fate highly developed civilization, which appeared in far from the most favorable natural conditions and died at the hands of illiterate aliens, still excites mankind.
The era of the great geographical discoveries(XV-XVII centuries) made it possible for European adventurers to quickly and fabulously get rich in new lands. Most often cruel and unprincipled, the conquistadors rushed to America not for the sake of scientific discoveries and cultural exchange between civilizations.
The fact that the papal throne in 1537 recognized the Indians as spiritualized beings did not change anything in the methods of the conquistadors - they were not interested in theological disputes. By the time of the "humane" papal decision, the conquistador Francisco Pizarro had already managed to execute the Inca emperor Atahualpa (1533), defeat the Inca army and capture the capital of the empire, the city of Cuzco (1536).
There is a version that at first the Indians mistook the Spaniards for gods. And it is quite possible that the main reason for this delusion was not the white skin of the aliens, not that they were riding on unseen animals, and not even that they possessed firearms. The Incas were struck by the incredible cruelty of the conquistadors.
At the first meeting of Pizarro and Atahualpa, the Spaniards ambushed thousands of Indians and captured the emperor, who did not expect anything like this at all. After all, the Indians, whom the Spaniards condemned for human sacrifice, believed that human life is the highest gift, and that is why human sacrifice gods was highest form worship. But in order to simply destroy thousands of people who did not come to the war at all?!
That the Incas could offer serious resistance to the Spaniards is beyond doubt. After the murder of the captive Atahualpa, for whom the Indians paid a monstrous ransom - almost 6 tons of gold, the conquistadors began to plunder the country, mercilessly melting down Inca jewelry pieces into ingots. But the brother of Atahualpa Manco, appointed by them as the new emperor, instead of collecting gold for the invaders, fled and led the fight against the Spaniards. the last emperor, Tupac Amaru, Viceroy of Peru Francisco de Toledo was able to execute only in 1572, and even after that the leaders of new uprisings were named after him.
Little has survived from the Inca civilization to this day - after the death of hundreds of thousands of Indians, both at the hands of the Spaniards and from work in the mines, hunger, European epidemics, there was no one to maintain irrigation systems in order, high mountain roads, lovely buildings. The Spaniards destroyed a lot to get building material.
A country whose inhabitants were accustomed to supply from public warehouses, in which there were no beggars and vagabonds, on long years after the arrival of the conquistadors, it became a zone of human disaster.

Nature

Andes run through everything climatic zones, so the flora and fauna of these mountain ranges is very diverse.

Different theories determine the age of the Andean mountain system from 18 million years to several hundred million years. But, more importantly for people living in the Andes, the process of formation of these mountains is still ongoing.
Earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, glaciers in the Andes do not stop. In 1835, Charles Darwin observed the eruption of the Osorno volcano from the island of Chiloe. The earthquake described by Darwin destroyed the cities of Concepción and Talcahuano and claimed numerous victims. Such events in the Andes are not uncommon.
So, in 1970, a glacier in Peru literally in seconds buried the city of Yungay under itself with almost all the inhabitants, about 20,000 people died. In Chile in 2010, an earthquake claimed several hundred lives, left millions homeless, and caused enormous property damage. In general, serious disasters occur in the Andes with a frightening cycle - once every 10-15 years.
The most severe climate is noted on the central plateaus of the Andes, where precipitation, if any, occurs even in summer in the form of snow. It is believed that these highlands are the most barren and driest in the world, which is quite due to the combination of rarefied dry air, fierce winds and dazzling sun.
The Andes perform the function of an interoceanic watershed: the rivers belonging to the Atlantic Ocean basin flow east of the Andes and many of them originate in the mountains, the source of the Amazon itself is located in the Andes, largest river peace. The rivers belonging to the Pacific Ocean are generally short and flow west of the Andes.
Also, the Andes, which are the longest in the world, are also a climatic barrier that isolates the Pacific coast of South America from the influence of the Atlantic Ocean, and most of the continent from the influence of the Pacific Ocean. As a result long distance Andes, their landscape parts differ significantly, according to various natural features, they distinguish the Northern Andes (up to 5º S), the Central Andes (5-28 "S) and the Southern Andes (28-41º 30º S). Another a feature of this mountain system is a clearly defined altitudinal zonality, according to which three belts are distinguished - tierra caliente - the lower high-altitude forest belt, tierra fria - the upper forest belt and tierra elada - a belt with a harsh climate.
Depending on the distance from the equator and the height above sea level, both equatorial, tropical and subtropical forests with their abundance of vegetation (palms, bananas, ficuses, cocoa trees, bamboos, evergreen trees and shrubs) and temperate forests grow in the Andes. Subarctic forests and tundra vegetation are characteristic of high altitudes and southern latitudes. It is believed that many of the most important agricultural crops, such as tomatoes, potatoes, tobacco, come from the Andes.
There are many unique species in the animal world of the Andes. So, Andean camels, llamas, alpacas, vigoni and guanacos are not found anywhere else in the world. The Andes are home to over 900 amphibian species, about 600 mammal species, and over 1,700 bird species. Many of them are endemic.

general information

Andes, Andean Cordillera- the longest mountain system in the world, southern part Cordillera.

Location: bordering the continent of South America from the north and west

States in which the Andes are located: Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina

The peoples inhabiting the Andes: Indians, Europeans, Mestizos, African Americans, Mulattos, Asians

Languages: mainly Spanish, as well as Quechua, Aymara, Guaraní and other Indian tribal languages

Religion: Primarily Catholic

Main seaports: Guayaquil (Ecuador), Valparaiso (Chile).

The most important airports: Simon Bolivar International Airport (Caracas, Venezuela); Eldorado International Airport (Santa Fe de Bogotá, Colombia), Mariscal Sucre International Airport (Quito, Ecuador), Jorge Chavez International Airport (Lima, Peru), El Alto International Airport (La Paz, Bolivia), Santiago International Airport (Chile).

The most important rivers are: Orinoco, Marañon, Ucayali, Medeira, Pilcomayo, Bermejo, Parana, Rio Salado, Colorado, Rio Negro.

Major lakes: Titicaca, Poopo.

Economy

The leading industry is mining: deposits of tungsten, silver, tin, oil are being developed (Peru, Bolivia, Venezuela, Chile); copper (Chile), gold and emeralds (Colombia), iron (Bolivia).

Agriculture: bananas (Ecuador, Colombia), potatoes, coffee (Colombia, Venezuela, Peru, Ecuador), corn, tobacco, wheat, sugar cane, olives, grapes; sheep breeding, fishing on large lakes.

Climate and weather

Due to the great length of the Andes, there is a huge variety of climate here, this mountain system stretches over six climatic zones (equatorial, northern and southern subequatorial, southern tropical, subtropical and temperate).

Most of the precipitation (up to 820 mm per year) falls from May to November.

In highland Quito, the temperature is kept within +13ºС... +15ºС, but there are big differences between day and night.

Precipitation (up to 1200 mm per year) - from September to May.

In La Paz, the average monthly temperature in November is about +1ºС, in July - about +7ºС.
In Chile, the average temperature in the north of the country is from +12ºС to +22ºС, in the south - from +3ºС to +16ºС.

Attractions

Lake Titicaca;
national park Lauka;
Chiloe National Park;

Cape Horn National Park;
Santa Fe de Bogota: Catholic churches of the 16th-18th centuries, National Museum Colombia;
Quito: Cathedral, Museum of Musical Instruments, Museum of Del Banco Central;
Cusco: Cusco Cathedral, La Campagna Church, Haitun-Rumiyok Street (remains of Inca buildings);
Lima: the archaeological sites of Huaca Hualyamarca and Huaca Pucllana, the archbishop's palace, the church and monastery of San Francisco;
Archaeological complexes: Machu Picchu, Pachacamac, the ruins of the city of Caral, Tambomachay, Pukapukara, Kenko, Pisak, Ollantaytambo, Moray, the ruins of Pikiljakta.

Curious facts

■ The capital of Bolivia, the city of La Paz, is the most highland capital in the world. It is located at an altitude of 3600 m above sea level.
■ 200 km north of the city of Lima (Peru) are the ruins of the city of Caral - temples, amphitheatres, houses and pyramids. It is believed that Caral belonged to the oldest civilization of America and was built approximately 4000-4500 years ago. Archaeological excavations showed that the city traded with vast territories of the continent of South America. It is especially interesting that archaeologists have not found any evidence of military conflicts for about a thousand years in the history of Karala.
■ One of the most mysterious monuments of history in the world - the monumental archaeological complex of Sacsayhuaman, located northwest of Cusco, at an altitude of about 3700 meters above sea level. The fortress of the same name of this complex is attributed to the Inca civilization. However, it has not yet been possible to establish how the stones of these walls, weighing up to 200 tons and fitted to each other with jeweler's precision, were processed. Also, the ancient system of underground passages has not yet been fully explored.
■ The archaeological complex of Morai, located 74 kilometers from Cusco at an altitude of 3500 meters, is still admired not only by archaeologists. Here, huge terraces, descending, form a kind of amphitheater. Studies have shown that this building was used by the Incas as an agricultural laboratory, since the different heights of the terraces made it possible to observe plants in different climatic conditions and experiment with them. It used different soils and a complex irrigation system, in total, the Incas grew 250 plant species.

) and differ (especially in the central part) sharp contrasts in moistening the eastern (leeward) and western (windward) slopes.

Due to the considerable length of the Andes, their individual landscape parts differ significantly from each other. By the nature of the relief and other natural differences, as a rule, three main regions are distinguished - the Northern, Central and Southern Andes.

The Andes stretched through the territories of seven states of South America - Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina

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Name history

According to the Italian historian Giovanni Anello Oliva (r.), originally the conquering Europeans “ Andes or Cordillera” (“Andes, o cordilleras”) was the name of the eastern ridge, while the western was called “ sierra» ("sierra") . Currently, most scientists believe that the name comes from the Quechuan word anti(high ridge, ridge), although there are other opinions [ which?] .

Geological structure and relief

Andes - resurrected mountains, erected the latest uplifts in place of the so-called Andean (Cordillera) fold geosinklinal belt; The Andes are one of the largest Alpine folding systems on the planet (on the Paleozoic and partly Baikal folded basement). The beginning of the formation of the Andes refers to the Jurassic time. The Andean mountain system is characterized by troughs formed in the Triassic, subsequently filled with layers of sedimentary and volcanic rocks of considerable thickness. Large massifs of the Main Cordillera and the coast of Chile, the Coastal Cordillera of Peru are Cretaceous granitoid intrusions. Intermountain and marginal troughs (Altiplano, Maracaibo, etc.) formed in the Paleogene and Neogene times. Tectonic movements, accompanied by seismic and volcanic activity, continue in our time. This is due to the fact that a subduction zone passes along the Pacific coast of South America: the Nazca and Antarctic plates go under the South American one, which contributes to the development of mountain building processes. The extreme southern part of South America, Tierra del Fuego, is separated by a transform fault from a small plate, Scotia. Beyond the Drake Strait, the Andes continue with the mountains of the Antarctic Peninsula.

The Andes are rich in ores, mainly non-ferrous metals (vanadium, tungsten, bismuth, tin, lead, molybdenum, zinc, arsenic, antimony, etc.); the deposits are confined mainly to the Paleozoic structures of the eastern Andes and the vents of ancient volcanoes; in Chile - large copper deposits. In the advanced and foothill troughs there is oil and gas (in the foothills of the Andes within Venezuela, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina), in the weathering crusts - bauxites. In the Andes there are also deposits of iron (in Bolivia), sodium nitrate (in Chile), gold, platinum and emeralds (in Colombia).

The Andes consist mainly of meridional parallel ranges: the Eastern Cordillera of the Andes, the Central Cordillera of the Andes, the Western Cordillera of the Andes, the Coastal Cordillera of the Andes, between which lie the internal plateaus and plateaus (Puna, Altiplano - in Bolivia and Peru) or depressions. The width of the mountain system is mainly 200-300 km.

Orography

Northern Andes

The main system of the Andes mountains (Andean Cordillera) consists of parallel ridges stretching in the meridional direction, separated by internal plateaus or depressions. Only the Caribbean Andes, located within Venezuela and belonging to the Northern Andes, stretched sublatitudinally along the coast of the Caribbean Sea. The northern Andes also include the Ecuadorian Andes (in Ecuador) and the Northwestern Andes (in western Venezuela and Colombia). The highest ridges of the Northern Andes have small modern glaciers, and eternal snows on volcanic cones. The islands of Aruba, Bonaire, Curaçao in the Caribbean Sea represent the peaks of the continuation of the Northern Andes descending into the sea.

In the Northwestern Andes, fan-shaped diverging north of 12 ° N. sh., there are three main Cordillera - Eastern, Central and Western. All of them are high, steeply sloping and have a folded-block structure. They are characterized by faults, uplifts and subsidences of modern times. The main Cordilleras are separated by large depressions - the valleys of the rivers Magdalena and Cauca - Patia.

The Eastern Cordillera has highest altitude in its northeastern part (Mount Ritakuwa, 5493 m); in the center of the Eastern Cordillera - an ancient lake plateau (the prevailing heights are 2.5 - 2.7 thousand m); the Eastern Cordillera is generally characterized by large leveling surfaces. In the highlands there are glaciers. In the north, the Eastern Cordillera is continued by the Cordillera de Mérida ranges ( highest point- Mount Bolivar, 5007 m) and the Sierra de Perija (reaches a height of 3,540 m); between these ranges, in a vast low-lying depression, lies Lake Maracaibo. On the far north- horst massif Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta with altitudes up to 5800 m (Mount Cristobal Colon)

The valley of the Magdalena River separates the Eastern Cordillera from the Central, relatively narrow and high; in the Central Cordillera (especially in its southern part) there are many volcanoes (Huila, 5750 m; Ruiz, 5400 m; etc.), some of them are active (Kumbal, 4890 m). To the north, the Central Cordillera drops somewhat and forms the Antioquia massif, strongly dissected river valleys. The Western Cordillera, separated from the Central Valley of the Cauca River, has lower altitudes (up to 4200 m); in the south of the Western Cordillera - volcanism. Further to the west is the low (up to 1810 m) Serraniu de Baudo ridge, which passes in the north into the mountains of Panama. North and west of the Northwest Andes are the Caribbean and Pacific alluvial lowlands.

As part of the Equatorial (Ecuadorian) Andes, reaching up to 4 ° S, there are two Cordilleras (Western and Eastern), separated by depressions 2500-2700 m high. Along the faults that limit these depressions (depressions) - one of the highest volcanic chains (the highest volcanoes are Chimborazo, 6267 m, Cotopaxi, 5897 m). These volcanoes, as well as those of Colombia, form the first volcanic region of the Andes.

Central Andes

In the Central Andes (up to 28 ° S), the Peruvian Andes are distinguished (spreading south to 14 ° 30′ S) and the Central Andes proper. In the Peruvian Andes, as a result of recent uplifts and intensive incision of rivers (the largest of which - Marañon, Ucayali and Huallaga - belong to the system of the upper Amazon), parallel ridges (Eastern, Central and Western Cordilleras) and a system of deep longitudinal and transverse canyons were formed, which dissected the ancient leveling surface . The peaks of the Cordillera of the Peruvian Andes exceed 6000 m (the highest point is Mount Huascaran, 6768 m); in Cordillera Blanca - modern glaciation. Alpine landforms are also developed on the blocky ridges of the Cordillera Vilcanota, Cordillera de Vilcabamba, Cordillera de Carabaya.

To the south is the widest part of the Andes - the Central Andean Highlands (up to 750 km wide), where arid geomorphological processes predominate; a significant part of the highlands is occupied by the Pune plateau with heights of 3.7 - 4.1 thousand m. Pune is characterized by drainless basins (“bolsons”) occupied by lakes (Titicaca, Poopo, etc.) and salt marshes (Atacama, Koipasa, Uyuni, etc. .). To the east of Pune - Cordillera Real (Ankouma peak, 6550 m) with powerful modern glaciation; between the Altiplano plateau and the Cordillera Real, at an altitude of 3700 m, is the city of La Paz, the capital of Bolivia, the highest mountain in the world. East of the Cordillera Real - Subandian folded ranges of the Eastern Cordillera, reaching up to 23 ° S.l. The southern continuation of the Cordillera Real is the Central Cordillera, as well as several blocky massifs (the highest point is Mount El Libertador, 6720 m). From the west, Pune is framed by the Western Cordillera with intrusive peaks and numerous volcanic peaks (Sahama, 6780 m; Lullaillaco, 6739 m; San Pedro, 6145 m; Misti, 5821 m; etc.), which are part of the second volcanic region of the Andes. South of 19°S the western slopes of the Western Cordillera go to the tectonic depression of the Longitudinal Valley, occupied in the south by the Atacama Desert. Behind the Longitudinal Valley there is a low (up to 1500 m) intrusive Coastal Cordillera, which is characterized by arid sculptural relief forms.

In Pune and in the western part of the Central Andes there is a very high snow line (in some places above 6,500 m), therefore, snow is noted only on the highest volcanic cones, and glaciers are found only in the Ojos del Salado massif (up to 6,880 m high).

Southern Andes

In the Southern Andes, extending south of 28 ° S, there are two parts - the northern (Chile-Argentine, or Subtropical Andes) and the southern (Patagonian Andes). In the Chilean-Argentinean Andes, tapering to the south and reaching 39 ° 41′ S, a three-membered structure is pronounced - Coastal Cordillera, Longitudinal Valley and Main Cordillera; within the latter, in the Cordillera Frontal, - highest peak Andes, Mount Aconcagua (6960 m), as well as the large peaks of Tupungato (6800 m), Mercedario (6770 m). The snow line here is very high (at 32°40′ S - 6000 m). East of the Cordillera Frontal are the ancient Precordillera.

South of 33°S (and up to 52 ° S) the third volcanic region of the Andes is located, where there are many active (mainly in the Main Cordillera and to the west of it) and extinct volcanoes (Tupungato, Maypa, Lyimo, etc.)

When moving south, the snow line gradually decreases and under 51 ° S.l. reaches a mark of 1460 m. High ridges acquire the features of an alpine type, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bmodern glaciation increases, and numerous glacial lakes appear. South of 40°S the Patagonian Andes begin with lower ridges than in the Chilean-Argentine Andes (the highest point is Mount San Valentin - 4058 m) and active volcanism in the north. About 52° S the heavily dissected Coastal Cordillera plunges into the ocean, and its peaks form a chain of rocky islands and archipelagos; The longitudinal valley turns into a system of straits reaching the western part of the Strait of Magellan. In the area of ​​the Strait of Magellan, the Andes (here called the Andes of Tierra del Fuego) deviate sharply to the east. In the Patagonian Andes, the height of the snow line barely exceeds 1500 m (at far south it is 300-700 m, and from 46°30′ S. glaciers descend to ocean level), glacial landforms prevail (at 48 ° S - the powerful Patagonian ice sheet) with an area of ​​\u200b\u200bmore than 20 thousand km², from where many kilometers of glacial tongues descend to the west and east); some of the valley glaciers on the eastern slopes end in large lakes. Along the coast, heavily indented by fjords, young volcanic cones rise (Corcovado and others). The Andes of Tierra del Fuego are relatively low (up to 2469 m).

Climate

Northern Andes

The northern part of the Andes belongs to the subequatorial zone of the Northern Hemisphere; here, as in sub equatorial belt Southern Hemisphere, there is an alternation of wet and dry seasons; Precipitation falls from May to November, but at its most northern regions the wet season is shorter. Eastern slopes moistened much stronger than the western ones; precipitation (up to 1000 mm per year) falls mainly in summer. In the Caribbean Andes, located on the border of the tropical and subequatorial zones, tropical air dominates throughout the year; there is little precipitation (often less than 500 mm per year); the rivers are short with characteristic summer floods.

In the equatorial belt, seasonal fluctuations are practically absent; for example, in the capital of Ecuador, Quito, the change in average monthly temperatures per year is only 0.4 °C. Precipitation is plentiful (up to 10000 mm per year, although usually 2500-7000 mm per year) and more evenly distributed over the slopes than in the subequatorial belt. The altitudinal zonation is clearly expressed. In the lower part of the mountains - a hot and humid climate, precipitation falls almost daily; in the depressions there are numerous swamps. With altitude, the amount of precipitation decreases, but at the same time, the thickness of the snow cover increases. Up to altitudes of 2500-3000 m, temperatures rarely drop below 15 ° C, seasonal temperature fluctuations are insignificant. Here, daily temperature fluctuations are already large (up to 20 ° C), the weather can change dramatically during the day. At altitudes of 3500-3800 m, daily temperatures already fluctuate around 10 °C. Above - a harsh climate with frequent snowstorms and snowfalls; daytime temperatures are positive, but there are severe frosts at night. The climate is dry, as there is little precipitation due to high evaporation. Above 4500 m - eternal snow.

Central Andes

Between 5° and 28° S there is a pronounced asymmetry in the distribution of precipitation along the slopes: the western slopes are much less moistened than the eastern ones. To the west of the Main Cordillera there is a desert tropical climate (the formation of which is greatly facilitated by the cold Peruvian current), there are very few rivers. If in the northern part of the Central Andes 200-250 mm of precipitation falls annually, then to the south their amount decreases and in some places does not exceed 50 mm per year. In this part of the Andes is Atacama - the driest desert the globe. Deserts rise in places up to 3000 m above sea level. A few oases are located mainly in the valleys of small rivers fed by the waters of mountain glaciers. The average January temperature in coastal areas ranges from 24 °C in the north to 19 °C in the south, the average July temperature ranges from 19 °C in the north to 13 °C in the south. Above 3000 m, in a dry puna, there is also little precipitation (rarely more than 250 mm per year); arrivals of cold winds are noted, when the temperature can drop to -20 ° C. The average July temperature does not exceed 15 °C.

At low altitudes, with an extremely small amount of rain, significant (up to 80%) air humidity, so fogs and dews are frequent. The Altiplano and Puna plateaus have a very harsh climate, with average annual temperatures not exceeding 10 °C. large lake Titicaca has a mitigating effect on the climate of the surrounding areas - in the lakeside areas, temperature fluctuations are not as significant as in other parts of the plateau. To the east of the Main Cordillera - a large (3000 - 6000 mm per year) amount of precipitation (brought mainly in summer time east winds), dense river network. Through the valleys air masses from the Atlantic Ocean they cross the Eastern Cordillera, moistening its western slope as well. Above 6000 m in the north and 5000 m in the south - negative average annual temperatures; due to the dry climate, there are few glaciers.

Southern Andes

In the Chilean-Argentine Andes, the climate is subtropical, and the humidification of the western slopes - due to winter cyclones - is greater than in the subequatorial zone; when moving south, the annual precipitation on the western slopes increases rapidly. Summer is dry, winter is wet. As you move away from the ocean, the continentality of the climate increases, and seasonal temperature fluctuations increase. In the city of Santiago, located in the Longitudinal Valley, the average temperature of the warmest month is 20 ° C, the coldest - 7-8 ° C; there is little precipitation in Santiago, 350 mm per year (to the south, in Valdivia, there is more precipitation - 750 mm per year). On the western slopes of the Main Cordillera, precipitation is more than in the Longitudinal Valley (but less than on the Pacific coast).

When moving south, the subtropical climate of the western slopes smoothly passes into the oceanic climate of temperate latitudes: the annual precipitation increases, and differences in seasonal moisture decrease. Strong westerly winds bring a large amount of precipitation to the coast (up to 6000 mm per year, although usually 2000-3000 mm). More than 200 days a year it rains heavily, thick fogs often fall on the coast, while the sea is constantly stormy; the climate is unfavorable for living. The eastern slopes (between 28° and 38° S) are drier than the western (and only in temperate zone, south of 37 ° S, due to the influence of westerly winds, their moisture increases, although they remain less humid compared to western ones). The average temperature of the warmest month on the western slopes is only 10-15 ° C (the coldest - 3-7 ° C)

In the extreme southern part of the Andes, on Tierra del Fuego, there is a very humid climate, which is formed by strong humid western and southwestern winds; precipitation (up to 3000 mm) falls mainly in the form of drizzling rain (which occurs most of the days of the year). Only in the easternmost part of the archipelago is much less precipitation. Throughout the year are low temperatures(although temperature fluctuations by season are extremely small).

Vegetation and soils

The soil and vegetation cover of the Andes is very diverse. This is due high altitudes mountains, a significant difference in the moisture content of the western and eastern slopes. Altitudinal zonality in the Andes is clearly expressed. There are three altitudinal belts - tierra caliente, tierra fria and tierra elada.

On the slopes of the Patagonian Andes south of 38°S. - subarctic multi-tiered forests of tall trees and shrubs, mostly evergreen, on

I have always been awed by the sight of mountain peaks holding up the sky, bathed in sunlight. Powerful, monumental, unshakable Atlanteans, breathing calmness. And if I am faced with a choice between the sea, the forest, and huge stone masses, I will without hesitation prefer the latter. Only mountains can be better than mountains!

And there are few places on the planet where I have experienced such inspiration as near the majestic Andes. Being part of the Cordillera mountain system, which divided the planet in half from the most northern extremities Canada almost to Antarctica, the Andes proudly bear the responsibility of preventing the waters of the Pacific and Atlantic oceans from mixing in southern hemisphere. The highest, longest, youngest mountains in the world. Rising to a height of almost 7,000 meters, strewn with dormant and awake volcanoes, this huge prehistoric creature stretches for 9,000 kilometers and plunges its southern edge into turbulent waters, forming a complex pattern of straits and glaciers, where ships have died for many centuries. The Andes keep a lot of secrets, mysteries and dangers: the gold of the Incas is hidden somewhere, planes died somewhere.

This is where I come back every time an airline like Iberia, Lufthansa or Turkish Airways announces a sale.

Northern Andes

In the north, the Andes rise above the tropical rainforests of Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador, their character is difficult: the height of 4500-6000 meters and changeable weather require special skills from the tourist. But you can choose a simpler option: rent a car and go around the foothills of volcanoes and lakes, or take a ride on the longest cable car in the world (almost 2 kilometers) Teleferico de Merida in Venezuela.


Central Andes

On the territory of Peru and Bolivia, the Andes keep in their depths vast and fertile plateaus on which the Incas once built cities. But for me, the main treasures of these places are high-altitude lakes, full-flowing like Titicaca and turned into salt marshes like. You can spend some amazing days exploring the customs of the inhabitants of the island of Taquile on Titicaca, where men knit from colored wool. Or spending the night on the reed-woven islands of Uros under huge and bright stars at an altitude of 3800 meters. Or rushing with a breeze through a huge pit of salt. Or coming up with the most incredible compositions for photography in a place where there is no perspective. And, of course, enjoying the most memorable sunsets in life.


Southern Andes, Carretera Austral

A long and narrow strip of land called Chile and the endless Argentinean pampas stretch along the Andean ridges, the tops of which cling to clouds. And they cling to literally: driven by Pacific winds, rain clouds cannot overcome the mountain barrier and shed precious moisture on the southern Chilean side (northern Chile is not so lucky with the world's driest Atacama desert). The famous road, built in the mid-1970s under Pinochet, winds here - Carretera Austral, or "southern road". This is one of the most picturesque and interesting routes I have ever traveled, it gives me the opportunity to fully enjoy the beauty of mountain peaks, turbulent rivers, azure lakes and proud pines for 1240 kilometers.


It is better to travel during the summer months (December to February), because at other times of the year ferry crossings do not function and you will not be able to enjoy all the charm of the trip. Therefore, feel free to plan a big vacation for the January holidays and then, in addition to the famous southern road you can see the huge Perito Moreno glacier, breathe in the famous Patagonian winds and find out why Tierra del Fuego is called that. By the way, the Northern and Central Andes are friendly to travelers. all year round.

Where to start

The starting point of Carretera Austral is the Chilean city of Puerto Montt. This is a nice little village with a European spirit, from where tourists, after admiring the old mahogany cathedral, go to the Lake District, to the Villarrica volcano or to the island of Chiloe. Here you have to decide how you will conquer the South Road: the most daring go hitchhiking or on bicycles, while the rest rent a car.

From the island of Chiloe, you can take a ferry to the town of Chaiten and move either north or south.

Another option is to start from the south, from the village of Villa O "Higgins, which can be reached by ferry from Argentina, which runs several times a week from November to March and only takes on board pedestrians or cyclists (costs about $ 60, or 40,000 pesos) , or entrusting itself to the care of a travel company that not only organizes delivery to the ferry by bus, but also offers to see the glaciers on the lake "on the way" (the tour will cost from $130).


What to bring

  1. Regardless of which method of transportation you choose, you need to have a supply of provisions with you, you will meet supermarkets only in relatively large settlements, in other settlements - only village shops with a minimum set of products.
  2. Do not forget a set of medicines you need and essentials (from a band-aid to toothpaste and repellents). Carretera Austral is not the place where you can take only a passport and a credit card.
  3. Comfortable clothes and shoes are a must as there are so many amazing alluring places to explore!
  4. Enough cash in local currency (Chilean pesos), you will not find ATMs until Coyaic itself, and cards are not accepted anywhere.

If you choose to travel on foot or by bike

Since the distances between settlements and campsites are large, you will need:

  • tent,
  • sleeping bag (in the mountains even in summer the nights are cold),
  • gas-burner,
  • pot and utensils,
  • and other camping gear.

You can rent everything you need, including a bicycle, in Puerto Monte (the choice is very scarce, and the prices are very high) or in Santiago, where a huge number of rentals with good bicycles are open. To do this, you will need to present your passport and bank card to hold a deposit (depending on the rental period from $ 250). The rental price starts from $30 per day or $120 per week.

If you choose to travel by car

You can rent a car in Puerto Monte or, as I did, in Santiago (in this case, you will need to set aside several days to drive along the magnificent highway for almost 1000 kilometers, stopping at wineries and stopping by national parks).


  1. Prepare, in addition to ordinary rights, international rights (some rental agencies do not issue a car without them) and, of course, a bank card with a sufficient amount in the account to block the deposit.
  2. Explore the websites of rental offices to choose the most suitable option. In no case do not watch small cars, only four-wheel drive! If possible, give up the options for cars that seem to have just come out of the salon, choose a car that has undergone a baptism of fire, because small stones will inevitably fly on a gravel road.
  3. South of the Carretera Austral Andes are full of many magnificent landscapes, for example, you can admire the famous peak of Fitzroy and the beauty of the Torres del Paine National Park. But, since some regions of the country are occupied by impenetrable mountains, part of the journey will have to be done through the territory of Argentina. To do this, you will need special documents for the car. Be sure to contact the rental agency in advance - documents for crossing the border are prepared for several days. And be prepared for the fact that you will be charged a fee of $ 200 for registration.
  4. You will rarely encounter gas stations along the way, so take every opportunity to replenish your gas supplies.

So, you are saddled with a four-wheeled beast (I, for example, got a red pickup truck, on the hood of which someone played tic-tac-toe with a nail) and are ready for adventure.


By sea

At the very beginning of the journey, three ferries will be waiting for you, which will go around the sea with impregnable, overgrown dense forest mountain slopes (see map below). The first ferry departs from La Arena every hour and costs about $15 (10,000 pesos) per car. In half an hour you will reach the peninsula, which can only be reached by sea. The second ferry leaves from the Ornopien settlement (it has several shops and you can stop for the night), located at the southern end of the peninsula, twice a day - in the morning and in the afternoon. It is better to check the schedule in Puerto Monte. This ferry takes 5 hours and costs $54 (35,000 pesos) and this price includes the third ferry, which leaves when all passengers on the second ferry have safely covered 10 kilometers of gravel.

By land

As a result of all sea ​​voyages, during which majestic mountains, forests and waterfalls will float by, you will find yourself in the village of Kaleto Gonzalo. From here, boldly head south, stopping at picturesque places and climbing deep into the mountains. Your average speed will be 50 km/h, so you will not miss the signs to recommended hiking trails to especially beautiful and amazing natural treasures and numerous national parks.


Carretera Austral ends at a dead end in the village of Villa O'Higgins, from where you can cross to Argentina (only those who travel on foot or by bicycle are taken on the ferry), or go back if you travel by car.

Where to go

Along the Southern Road, you will encounter several opportunities to cross the border into Argentina: at the village of Santa Lucia, next to the Lago las Torres park, the town of Coyaki and before reaching Cochrane. I would highly recommend the latter option, since you will not only be able to see almost all of Carretera Austral, but also drive past a magnificent lake, which in the Chilean part is called Lago General Carrera, and in the Argentinean part, Lago Buenos Aires.

Tourist infrastructure

You can spend the night in campsites, which are scattered along the entire Carretera Austral, or in settlements. Almost all locals rent rooms from $10 to $55 (8000-35000 pesos) per night for two and will be happy to feed you breakfast (and not always for additional fee). Free campsites are just cleared areas. Those equipped with a toilet, hot showers and awnings will cost from $5 to $10 per night.


For example, on January 2nd, I stopped in the picturesque village of Via Cerro Castillo, where the whole large family of the owners gathered for dinner in the evening. Despite my poor knowledge of Spanish, I was invited to share a meal with everyone and enjoy beautiful evening. The men prepared a traditional dish - they roasted a young lamb on the cross - a la cruz, and the women slaughtered fresh vegetables and greens. It was the most delicious lamb I have ever tasted in my life. And the glare of the fire on their open and friendly faces, songs to the accordion and majestic mountains under the shadow of the starry sky.


Catering establishments are found only in the largest settlements: Ornopyrene, Koyaki, Cochrane. Elsewhere, the best you can expect are small grocery stores. I usually tried to have a hearty breakfast and dinner where I spent the night (if the hosts did not cook, then I asked permission to use the kitchen), and during the day I was rescued by pre-made sandwiches.

Southern Andes, Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego

On the western edge of the Patagonian steppes rise the Southern Andes. They are no longer as high as in the north, but no less beautiful for that. Along the entire foothills of the mountains there are delightful nature reserves, the main pearls of which are the giant Perito Moreno glacier, one of only two on the planet Earth that does not decrease, but grows, and the Torres del Paine park, the harsh beauty of which attracts travelers from all over the world. What marvels Patagonia has prepared and how to get to them is well written.


And further south, the red grass of Tierra del Fuego rustles under the wind, where, according to legend, the giants lived, and the Andes lower their tail, dotted with peaks, into the ocean, from which glaciers slide down like hats. Here how last stronghold mountains, Cape Horn rises from the water, landing on which is good luck. Few ships and fierce cold currents roam between this lone lighthouse outpost and Argentina.

The Andes are many-sided and unpredictable, they fascinate and fall in love, having seen them at least once, you will return again and again. After all, only the Andes can be better than mountains!


Many are interested in where the Andes are located: on which mainland, in which climatic zones, on the territory of which states. Also, some readers would like to know about the time of origin of these great mountains, their nature and population. All this will be discussed in this article.

Geographical position

The Andes is the longest mountain system in the world. It borders the north and west of South America and extends for 9000 km. The width of the mountains is no less impressive: an average of about 500, and a maximum of 750 km.

The Andean Cordillera, as this mountain system is also called, is a natural barrier separating the territory of South America from the Atlantic. This is also a major watershed: east side the rivers of the Atlantic Ocean basin flow, from the western - the Pacific. High in the mountains, the tributaries of the Amazon, Orinoco, Paraguay, Parana, as well as many water arteries of Patagonia, originate.

The territory of the Andes covers seven countries of South America: Venezuela, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Argentina, Ecuador.

Weather

Owing to their vast extent, the ridges and spurs of these great mountains spread over several climatic zones.

The northern Andes are dominated by subequatorial latitudes with a clear alternation of rainy and dry seasons.

The tropical zone is characterized by constant values ​​of both temperature and humidity: there are no sharp changes here. These are the conditions in the Caribbean Andes. There is also no seasonality at the equator, but climate differences in height are pronounced: at the foot - it is humid and hot, at the peaks - snow.

The central part is characterized by a division along the slopes: an order of magnitude less precipitation falls from the west than from the east. Here is a zone of tropical deserts with frequent fogs and dews. The average annual temperature on the Puna and Altiplano plateaus does not exceed 10 ° C, and the conditions here are harsh: a sharp change in weather and strong gusty winds are the norm.

In the south, in the region of Tierra del Fuego, a humid oceanic climate prevails. annual rate rainfall exceeds 3,000 mm. They fall mainly in the form of a nasty drizzle that does not stop most of the days of the year.

How did they form?

Where are the Andes located? physical map any student can show the world. A complex chain of parallel ridges formed over millions of years. According to scientists, the Andes mountain system, where the subduction zone is located, is being transformed and is still being transformed. The Antarctic tectonic plate and Nazca are gradually moving under the South American one.

Geologists at the University of Bristol have established approximate time the beginning of the uplift. They took advantage of the new modern method, which is based on the study of cosmogenic helium-3, which is formed in mineral layers under the influence of cosmic radiation.

English scientists analyzed stones at an altitude of about 2 km in the western part of the mountain range. After numerous studies, they came to the conclusion that the Andes, where these boulders are located, were about the same level as they are now 15 million years ago. The slopes gradually rise due to the thickening of the earth's crust at the point of contact of the lithospheric plates.

The mainland, where the Andes mountains are located, is still in constant motion. This is imperceptible to us, however, when powerful earthquakes and volcanic eruptions occur, the planet reminds us of the processes taking place in its womb.

Vegetable world

The flora of these places directly depends on the altitudinal zonality. The Caribbean Andes are characterized by deciduous forests and shrubs. The eastern slopes are covered with impenetrable tropical jungles, while deserts and dry cereal steppe regions are located in the west. In the highlands of the equatorial latitudes, meadows predominate.

The Andes, where the lands are so diverse in terms of moisture and temperature, are considered the birthplace of many cultivated plants, including potatoes, coca and cinchona, which from time immemorial served as a powerful treatment for malaria.

Animal world

The fauna of the mountainous regions is similar to the adjacent plains. Among the endemics, vicuñas and guanacos, spectacled bears, chinchillas, the Chilean opossum, Azarov's fox, Magellanic dog should be abolished.

The Andes, where there are 88 national parks, is home to many birds. In mountainous areas one can meet condors, partridges, hummingbirds, several species of geese and ducks, flamingos and parrots.

highest point

Aconcagua - the highest dormant volcano in the world. This mountain peak, located in the central part of the Andes on the territory of modern Argentina, is the highest not only in its system, but also on the entire continent, as well as in the Southern and Western Hemispheres.

The name of the peak, according to one version, comes from the ancient Quechua language and is translated as “stone guard”.

From the point of view of mountaineering, Aconcagua is a fairly easy peak to climb, especially its northern slope. Most a short time, for which you can climb up (6962 m), was recorded in 1991 and amounted to 5 hours and 45 minutes.

The first person to climb the Stone Guard was the Swiss Matthias Zurbriggen. It happened on January 14, 1897 as part of the expedition of the Englishman Edward Fitzgerald.

The Incas - the ancient inhabitants of the mountains

The vanished civilization of the Incas lived in these mountainous regions many millennia ago. It was they who gave the name Andes. Translated from their ancient language, “anta” means “copper mountains”. And this name is not accidental: the largest belt with the richest deposits of this metal is located here.

Numerous tourists climb high into the Andes, where the cultural monuments of this mysterious civilization that have survived to this day are located.

most famous place of worship is a complex of structures called Machu Picchu, lost among the endless canyons and rocks. sacred abode ancient people was erected on top of a ridge located at an altitude of 2.5 km above sea level. And although in translation its name sounds like “old peak”, the Incas called Machu Picchu “the city in the clouds”.

In 1532, when the Spaniards came to the lands belonging to the Incas, the city was mysteriously empty. Where the inhabitants of Machu Picchu disappeared is still unknown. According to one of the legends, a huge cloud covered the city, taking the Indians with them.